safe refractory cement

DWFII

I have a plate setter that has an approx. 3 sq. in. chip broken off one leg. Otherwise it is solid.

I am thinking that i could repair it with refractory cement...hoping it will hold and not give off VOC's during cooking.

What's a good product for this kind of thing?

Killit_and_Grillit

DWFII said:

What's a good product for this kind of thing?

A new plate setter from CGS. 

DWFII

Thanks but I'm retired, on a fixed and limited income and I can't afford it.

stlcharcoal

Cut the legs off, and then you have a round stone.  Then get a cheap grill raise and you're back in business. .....and can now do raised direct as well

bikesAndBBQ

If it still fits in the egg and holds itself up, I’d use it until it falls apart. 

Carolina Q

stlcharcoal said:

Cut the legs off, and then you have a round stone.  Then get a cheap grill raise and you're back in business. .....and can now do raised direct as well

Like this... Weber grid and carriage bolts for raised direct...

Add stone to lower grid for indirect...

DWFII

@stlcharcoal and @bikesAndBBQ

Both of these are good suggestions. And if worse comes to worse, that's what I'll do--using as is until I can't use it like that anymore and then cutting the legs off.

But tell me, what's wrong with the idea of the refractory cement? Is it not strong enough? Is it not safe? Is it not suitable as a cement?

@RRP you are a Rutland dealer. Rutland makes a high temp refractory cement. Why won't it work?

DWFII

Carolina Q said:

stlcharcoal said:

Cut the legs off, and then you have a round stone.  Then get a cheap grill raise and you're back in business. .....and can now do raised direct as well

Like this... Weber grid and carriage bolts for raised direct...

Add stone to lower grid for indirect...

Is that two grids connected by carriage bolts? What are the grids--what sizes are they and what do I look for (where do I buy them?)

I've been looking for an inexpensive cooking grid and I can't find one for much less than $40.00

GregW

I wouldn't think a refractory cement has the structural strength to withstand being bumped around putting it in the egg. The refractory cements I've used tend to be brittle when cured.

bikesAndBBQ

My thought is, if it still does what it is supposed to, why repair it. If the ceramic is chipped, that could mean that the damage is done and nothing is really going to actually fix the issue of it eventually failing. If it were me, I’d use it until it doesn’t do its job. If just the one leg fails, then cut off all legs as suggested. It isn’t under warranty so you can experiment a little. My fire ring is cracked and under warranty. It does what it is supposed to, so I’ll use it until it fails then warranty it. 

stlcharcoal

https://smokeware.com/collections/products/products/the-raiser?variant=29802938243

Use code HomeForTroops for 10% for you and then 15% for the charity.  

As someone said, it broke for a reason......there are probably more issues in that leg you cant see.  Is it worth having it break during the middle of a cook and ruin $20-100+ worth of meat because you dont want to spend the money to deal with it now?

RRP

@RRP you are a Rutland dealer. Rutland makes a high temp refractory cement. Why won't it work?

LOL - no Sir, I am not a Rutland dealer - just a go between. The trouble is the refractory cement is merely a temporary fix it and will not hold up to regular use. Some here have tried it as well as JB Weld, but it too will not last. As @CarolinaQ suggested cut or break off the other two legs and use it then for your indirect cooks. Or you can make your own raised grate  with an auxillary grate and carriage bolts...and then use a drip pan underneath to act as an indirect deflector.

Carolina Q

DWFII said:

Carolina Q said:

stlcharcoal said:

Cut the legs off, and then you have a round stone.  Then get a cheap grill raise and you're back in business. .....and can now do raised direct as well

Like this... Weber grid and carriage bolts for raised direct...

Add stone to lower grid for indirect...

Is that two grids connected by carriage bolts? What are the grids--what sizes are they and what do I look for (where do I buy them?)

I've been looking for an inexpensive cooking grid and I can't find one for much less than $40.00

I forgot you don't have a grid. The lower grid is the stock grid that came with my egg. The upper one is a Weber grid from Lowe's as I recall. About $14. 17 1/2" diameter so almost as large as the original.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Weber-Cooking-Grate/1000353225

The two grids are not connected. The carriage bolts are attached to the upper grid, but the carriage bolt heads just rest on the lower grid. When you pick it up, the bolts come with it, but the lower grid stays in place.

Smokeware has a stainless 18" grid for $29 +shipping. Probably close to $40 total.
https://smokeware.com/collections/products/products/16-grill-grate?variant=40814048014

They also sell it on Amazon with free shipping, but that's $40.

I just went outside to check and while I don't use mine there, the Weber will fit on the fire ring. Some pics...

All this time, I thought I had used carriage bolts. Nope.

DWFII

Carolina Q said:

DWFII said:

Carolina Q said:

stlcharcoal said:

Cut the legs off, and then you have a round stone.  Then get a cheap grill raise and you're back in business. .....and can now do raised direct as well

Like this... Weber grid and carriage bolts for raised direct...

Add stone to lower grid for indirect...

Is that two grids connected by carriage bolts? What are the grids--what sizes are they and what do I look for (where do I buy them?)

I've been looking for an inexpensive cooking grid and I can't find one for much less than $40.00

I forgot you don't have a grid. The lower grid is the stock grid that came with my egg. The upper one is a Weber grid from Lowe's as I recall. About $14. 17 1/2" diameter so almost as large as the original.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Weber-Cooking-Grate/1000353225

The two grids are not connected. The carriage bolts are attached to the upper grid, but the carriage bolt heads just rest on the lower grid. When you pick it up, the bolts come with it, but the lower grid stays in place.

Smokeware has a stainless 18" grid for $29 +shipping. Probably close to $40 total.
https://smokeware.com/collections/products/products/16-grill-grate?variant=40814048014

They also sell it on Amazon with free shipping, but that's $40.

I just went outside to check and while I don't use mine there, the Weber will fit on the fire ring. Some pics...

All this time, I thought I had used carriage bolts. Nope.

So two of the Lowes 17-1/2" grids will work? --one for a regular cooking grid, one for the riser?

DWFII

OK...refractory cement won't work. Thing is just I read somewhere (and I've seen similar stories in several different places) about a making a pizza oven hood by covering a large yoga/exercise ball.

But I do like @Carolina Q's idea of the extender grids. And I can buy one at a time.

Carolina Q

Don't see why two Weber grids wouldn't work. And if for some reason, they don't, you can always return the second one. The Woo is undoubtedly a better choice, albeit at a higher price. Not sure the Weber grid will fit the Woo though.

Weber's wire gauge is noticeably thinner and they are plated steel, not stainless (you can see the rust on mine). Still, Weber has somehow soldiered on for years with them!

DWFII

Thanks

Botch

RRP said:
The trouble is the refractory cement is merely a temporary fix it and will not hold up to regular use. Some here have tried it as well as JB Weld, but it too will not last. 

Huh.  I thought a lot more people around here swore by JB Weld; this is the first time I've read it won't hold up.  

Carolina Q

JB Weld lists a specific max temp. I forget what it is, but it's far too low for use in an egg. I would be surprised though if there were none that would work. I remember @Weekend Warrior piecing together a firebox with a Cotronics product, 907GF. Never heard how long it held up though and Mark hasn't been on here in ages.

Some reading for those interested...

https://eggheadforum.com/discussion/comment/1692216#Comment_1692216

http://www.greeneggers.com/index.php?option=com_simpleboard&Itemid=55&func=view&catid=1&id=1269766

https://eggheadforum.com/discussion/comment/1456106#Comment_1456106

Carolina Q

@RRP, for $6, Home Depot sells the Rutland 64C you mentioned here...

https://eggheadforum.com/discussion/comment/1456106#Comment_1456106

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rutland-10-3-oz-Furnace-Cement-Tub-in-Black-64C/202218155?keyword=rutland+64c&semanticToken=21050+++>++++st:{rutland+64c}:st++cn:{3:1}++rutland+{brand}+64c+{rest}+

RRP

I honestly had forgotten that product and my recommendation from 4 years ago, but I'm guilty as charged!
Without trying to dig myself further in a hole here I do believe each broken PS could have different success/failure results. It will also depend on the useage. For instance I like to use a Lodge Dutch oven resting on my PS. With its weight and the contents that sucker is heavy! I sure would hate to have a joint failure occur slamming that heavy load against the inside of my egg!

DWFII

Carolina Q said:

All this time, I thought I had used carriage bolts. Nope.

How long are those bolts and how high into the dome does it raise the upper grid?

Ozzie_Isaac

Is it still under warranty? If so, just get a new one.

DoubleEgger

Is it bad enough that you can’t use it as is? How about posting a pic?

Carolina Q

1/4" x 5" bolts. Upper grid is at gasket level, more or less. As shown in my first pic. Buy whatever length floats your boat. Some here use stainless, these are just zinc plated. I'm not dead yet, but who knows.

northGAcock

My wife is a potter. She says that any attempt to weld ceramics together will only be a temporary solution. Better to spend you money on a permanent fix....you will be doing so in the near future anyhow.

DWFII

Carolina Q said:

1/4" x 5" bolts. Upper grid is at gasket level, more or less. As shown in my first pic. Buy whatever length floats your boat. Some here use stainless, these are just zinc plated. I'm not dead yet, but who knows.

Thanks

Do you do pizza at gasket level or how do you raise the pizza stone above that? Another riser grid?

Carolina Q

DWFII said:

Carolina Q said:

1/4" x 5" bolts. Upper grid is at gasket level, more or less. As shown in my first pic. Buy whatever length floats your boat. Some here use stainless, these are just zinc plated. I'm not dead yet, but who knows.

Thanks

Do you do pizza at gasket level or how do you raise the pizza stone above that? Another riser grid?

You need an indirect piece and some way to raise the pizza stone. Doesn't matter how exactly. Be creative. My pizza stone goes on top of this.

nolaegghead

https://www.amazon.com/Technicqll-Temperature-Adhesive-Fireplace-Collectors/dp/B006U5MLEW?th=1

DWFII

Carolina Q said:

You need an indirect piece and some way to raise the pizza stone. Doesn't matter how exactly. Be creative. My pizza stone goes on top of this.

So, if I understand you correctly, you're not using the earlier rig (your "homemade woo") for pizza. You're still working off the platesetter (mine's chipped) to get the pizza stone up into the dome.

That's one thing I kind of don't like about the BGE...unless I'm misunderstanding some aspect of this--by default (without mods), you end up with your default cooking grid below the gasket.

And as suggested by your photo above, with the platesetter with the legs up your cooking grid is below gasket level.

That doesn't seem comfortable or logical. School me if I'm wrong.

And then to get your food at,  or above, the gasket you need a platesetter or some sort of rig like in the photos you posted earlier.

So, what I'm hearing is that bottom line,  without a functioning platesetter, you need a three tier rig...or woo or AR (which is prohibitively expensive) to cook pizza in the dome ...sigh.

School me if I'm wrong, please.

RRP

I "sort of" understand your concern/quandary. So many recommendations about the height above/level with/or below the gasket is from and by eggers using the gaskets sold by BGE. What you have is a Rutland gasket and none of that at gasket level is an issue! The BGE isn't even able to reach the 2,200 degrees to damage a Rutland gasket!