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A little frustrated....

Hi all,
i have had my egg for a few years and love it.  Having some issues I would love some advice.  As of late my egg doesn't want to stay at 225 degrees.  Keeps creeping up.  I typically start with two brick starters or two paper towels w vegetable oil.  It gets a little hot like 240-260 then I shut the vents and it gets to 225 unfortunately in 45 minutes it is back up at 250...  I am aware of putting on cold food that it cools initially but even if I close top (use a digiq on the bottom it still gets hot.  Should I just start with one paper towel and put food on at a lower temp?  I don't want to starve the fire...  Also my gasket is not much of a gasket anymore so maybe that is letting in too much o2?  I Read some posts and some guys run w no gasket??  Just put a butt on and it's hot (260) after 45 min.  Top vent barely open.  Just closed totally to drop it...

Also in my reading - meat will take smoke to 150 degrees.  I find that using a mix of chunk and shavings I get smoke strong for 30 minutes.  (7 chunks mixed jack Daniel barrel and apple also less than a quarter bag of jack shavings) once the smoke slows down I stir the lump and I get it smoking strong again for 10 minutes open and stir again after 20 min. So realistically the meat is getting a good dose for Only about an hour?  Cooking indirect it doesn't make sense to take the meat off to add more wood....  Last couple cooks could have used a little more smoke....

i appreciate any ideas!  All the best!


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Comments

  • I am certainly not the expert on this but I would take a wild guess that you are correct in saying that your gasket could be the problem.. I am sure you are going to get all the answers from the experts on the forum..
    Greensboro North Carolina
    When in doubt Accelerate....
  • I would have to guess that you are leaking through where your gasket used to be. If you did not have this problem before and you have a routine based off of experience with the egg, and the only thing that has changed is the deteriation of your gasket - that is where I would start. Get ahold of @RRP to get a Rutland gasket.
    Lake Keowee, SC
    XLarge, MiniMax, 36" Blackstone
    Custom Table, KAB, Woo2, Guru DigiQ DX2,
    Family of 5 Meat Eaters
  • You are contradicting things when you say you don't want to starve the fire, while complaining that it is too hot

    "my car is going too fast, but i don't want to stall"

    therein lies the answer. If the egg is too hot, it's getting too much air. Only. Ever. And always

    shut it more. It cannot be starved of air while getting too much air

    for lower temp cooks use one paper napkin or starter cube.  The draft is low enough that starter cubes can snuff out and smolder, so i never use them personally. They need the lid open, which establishes a bigger fire than you need

    if the egg is too hot, close the lower vent by a third and wait. 
    [social media disclaimer: irony and sarcasm may be used in some or all of user's posts; emoticon usage is intended to indicate moderately jocular social interaction; the comments toward users, their usernames, and the real people (living or dead) that they refer to are not intended to be adversarial in nature; those replying to this user are entering into a tacit agreement that they are real-life or social-media acquaintances and/or have agreed to or tacitly agreed to perpetrate occasional good-natured ribbing between and among themselves and others]

  • RedSkip
    RedSkip Posts: 1,400
    1.  You may have a leak around gasket allowing more air in, but that wouldnt concern me too much.  260 on the dome is probably 225 at the grate where your food is cooking.  Not that you want to, but I've found cooking butts at higher temps doesn't do anything but lessen the time.  The quality of the cook is still there.

    2.  Just because you can't see smoke doesn't mean that it's not there.  The gray/blue smoke barely visible is the best and cleanest for cooking.  Stick with chunks, they will hold up longer.  I suspect the heavy smoke you see in the first 30 minutes is the chips burning off.  You need the chunks to heat up to release VOCs (white smoke) before you'll get to the gray/blue color you desire.  

    Spread ad the chunks out throughout the lump, that way you'll have them for the whole cook.

    Lastly, don't start your cook until you see the gray/blue smoke, this will give your meat more time to capture the flavor before hitting 150F.

    - just my 0.02, more qualified folks will chime in shortly.
    Large BGE - McDonald, PA
  • Jupiter Jim
    Jupiter Jim Posts: 3,351
    Agree with the others solve the gasket issue and don't let it get to 250-260 before you start to close down the vents, start when your at 225.

    I'm only hungry when I'm awake!

    Okeechobee FL. Winter

    West Jefferson NC Summer

  • Ozzie_Isaac
    Ozzie_Isaac Posts: 18,944
    Gasket, crack, dome alignment, basically there is something causing increased airflow.
    A bison’s level of aggressiveness, both physical and passive, is legendary. - NPS
  • Smoke will flavor meat any any temp, FWIW.   At 140 it is the smoke ring that stops forming, but flavor (smoke) will continue to be deposited on the meat. 


    [social media disclaimer: irony and sarcasm may be used in some or all of user's posts; emoticon usage is intended to indicate moderately jocular social interaction; the comments toward users, their usernames, and the real people (living or dead) that they refer to are not intended to be adversarial in nature; those replying to this user are entering into a tacit agreement that they are real-life or social-media acquaintances and/or have agreed to or tacitly agreed to perpetrate occasional good-natured ribbing between and among themselves and others]

  • Actually missed the part about the gasket. Yeah. Fix that. 

    I know a dude who is gasketless. He (I believe) uses the right amount of lump for each cook. I used his egg for a weekend once and just filled it (overfilled it) like I do. I found it had continued to burn overnight even when fully shut. 

    So gasketless is an option, sure. But i think you risk extra O2. Some gasketless owners have no complaints and say their egg is still air tight

    FWIW funny thing is the whole airtight concept and micro temp control was an accidental byproduct of the initial intent of the gasket: to cushion the dome. An old owner's manual shows vent settings for low/med/high-ish situations IIRC. ...but I don't think they got specific re 250/350 etc. they state that the gasket is there to cushion the lid when you close it. Who knew?
    [social media disclaimer: irony and sarcasm may be used in some or all of user's posts; emoticon usage is intended to indicate moderately jocular social interaction; the comments toward users, their usernames, and the real people (living or dead) that they refer to are not intended to be adversarial in nature; those replying to this user are entering into a tacit agreement that they are real-life or social-media acquaintances and/or have agreed to or tacitly agreed to perpetrate occasional good-natured ribbing between and among themselves and others]

  • Thanks all!!!   To make sure I am clear - you start and when u hit 225 - shut it down right away...  I know the temp is going to drop when I put my place setter, pan w apple juice, grate and shoulder in...  My fear has always been that I will kill the fire for this drop in temp so I let it go a little higher.  I should however stop it at 225 and it will get back to the 225 without fear of it going out
  • Chubbs
    Chubbs Posts: 6,929
    If you have the stabilized it will drop when you put meat and all in but will rise back as long as temp was stabilized. And FWIW I see no need in cooking at 225. 250-275 will give you the same results and likely speed cook some to boot
    Columbia, SC --- LBGE 2011 -- MINI BGE 2013
  • Thought this went into the last post - you let the white smoke clear before putting your meat on????
  • Carolina Q
    Carolina Q Posts: 14,831
    First, I have never tried 225°. 250° is the lowest I ever go. The egg just likes it there so who am I to argue. Also, I understand that nothing is gained by cooking at such a low temp anyway.

    Second, don't wait until you reach target temp to start shutting down. When it gets within 25° or so below target, close the vents down then. Sneak up on it. 

    Ideally, you will eventually know where to set the vents for a given temp. That way, you can light the lump, set the vents and walk away. When you return in 15 minutes (or an HOUR and 15 minutes), your temp will be very close to where you wanted it.

    I hate it when I go to the kitchen for food and all I find are ingredients!                                                                                                                                                                                                                           

    Michael 
    Central Connecticut 

  • Awesome quote at the end of your post Carolina Q!!  if you don't mind me asking?  Once you light your lump how soon thereafter do you close the lid and adjust vents?  Right when you start it or after a few minutes of the lid being open?
  • pgprescott
    pgprescott Posts: 14,544
    Now when I agree with @Carolina Q, he must be on to something. 
  • Carolina Q
    Carolina Q Posts: 14,831
    Paul B. said:
    Once you light your lump how soon thereafter do you close the lid and adjust vents?  Right when you start it or after a few minutes of the lid being open?
    I leave the dome open for just a couple of minutes, lower vent open all the way. Just make sure the fire's going.

    For a lower temp like 250°, I might let it go a bit longer since vent openings are so small. Don't want to snuff it by closing down too soon.

    I hate it when I go to the kitchen for food and all I find are ingredients!                                                                                                                                                                                                                           

    Michael 
    Central Connecticut 

  • Much appreciated.  It seems to always work out but I burned up some mackerel and I am still pissed about it.  I am leaving my lid open too long.  Have a great weekend
  • Jeepster47
    Jeepster47 Posts: 3,827
    ... Some gasketless owners have no complaints and say their egg is still air tight ...
    @Darby_Crenshaw ... let me expand on what you said.

    The firebowl was rock solid on my first large egg.  But, the firebowl on my second large rocked like a cradle.  Hand to sand it level to stop the movement.  The same tolerance range probably exists between the dome and the base.  Thus, I suspect that some folks could pass the dollar bill test without gaskets, while others couldn't pass a penny test. If you're going to run low-n-slow without a gasket, your mileage may vary.  Test it out to be sure.

    Washington, IL  >  Queen Creek, AZ ... Two large eggs and an adopted Mini Max

  • Haven't had a gasket in years.  Any air leaking in that way can be compensated for by adjusting the daisy wheel and/or the bottom vent.  You should, however, scrape off the remains of the gasket and readjust the dome.  For lower temperature cooks I would not overshoot and then try to back down.  Start chasing the temperature right away.  It might take a little while to be stable but you will get your results.  I am guessing that you are getting too big a field of burning lump and then losing control.  For my two cents, if I am within 10 degrees either way of the perfect temperature for what I am cooking that has been close enough, exception being smoked salmon that I try to not get much warmer than 180.  My 250 cooks get adjusted pretty quickly to closed DW and just about a quarter inch of bottom vent.

    XXL #82 out of the first 100, XLGE X 2, LBGE (gave this one to daughter 1.0) , MBGE (now in the hands of iloveagoodyoke daughter 2.0) and lots of toys

  • Paul B. said:
    Thanks all!!!   To make sure I am clear - you start and when u hit 225 - shut it down right away...  I know the temp is going to drop when I put my place setter, pan w apple juice, grate and shoulder in...  My fear has always been that I will kill the fire for this drop in temp so I let it go a little higher.  I should however stop it at 225 and it will get back to the 225 without fear of it going out
    Paul B. said:
    Thanks all!!!   To make sure I am clear - you start and when u hit 225 - shut it down right away...  I know the temp is going to drop when I put my place setter, pan w apple juice, grate and shoulder in...  My fear has always been that I will kill the fire for this drop in temp so I let it go a little higher.  I should however stop it at 225 and it will get back to the 225 without fear of it going out
    Pan with apple juice?  Why?
    It's a 302 thing . . .
  • rmr62
    rmr62 Posts: 233
    These guys have given you all the info you need.  I fried my gasket long ago, got a replacement but have yet to take the time to put it on.  Anyway, for my own personal egg, for a low and slow cook, I usually do at about 260-275 dome.  That seems to be the sweet spot for mine.  I have tried around 225, but fire went out.  If I shoot for 250ish, it usually settles in as above without any trouble.  Main variable are amount of lump and oxygen for burning.  Pretty simple, but I think each egg while similar, with have slight differences too
    Lagrange, GA   LBGE
  • westernbbq
    westernbbq Posts: 2,490
    If you can, invest in a guru setup with digi Q.   Best long term cooking investment i ever made, except for the egg itself of course
  • fishlessman
    fishlessman Posts: 32,669
    i have no gasket, egg leaks smoke in a big way. wind, or a leaky bottom vent will do what your describing. wind will affect the flow at the gasket but if theres no wind the heat flow and oxygen is fully regulated by the lower vent. check the silicon at the lower vent. oxygen from the leaky upper gasket can never fan the fire, it cant travel down with the heat rising
    fukahwee maine

    you can lead a fish to water but you can not make him drink it
  • Jeepster47
    Jeepster47 Posts: 3,827
    edited February 2016
    @westernbbq ... I don't disagree with your post ... mainly 'cuz I own two different control units.  But, to be honest, the control units are not a panacea for eggs with flow/leak problems.  I love the challenge of keeping the pit temp within a couple of degrees of target.  To do that, I've had to address all the leakage paths that have been pointed out above.

    I'd caution anyone who's contemplating buying a controller to "fix" leakage problems first so that you can control the temps manually.  Then you can effectively employ one of those teetotaler buddies to pay attention to the temps.

    @Paul_B. ... Since you were maintaining temps and now you are struggling with them, consider doing a complete clean out and then check closely for a crack in the base.  Cracks will open and close slightly based on temperature changes ... that might be why you're now chasing temps.

    I've added RTV around the inside of the bottom vent opening to seal the space between the ceramic and the back-plate for the vent screen/door.  BGE puts RTV along the top edge and the bottom edge, but not the ends ... that can be a source for air leakage.

    Washington, IL  >  Queen Creek, AZ ... Two large eggs and an adopted Mini Max

  • Abter
    Abter Posts: 125
    I am still on the learning curve, and have struggled with getting to, and then holding, 225 at the dome thermometer.  What I have learned is:
    1) try to light a single, small fire in the center of the lump.  Let the burn spread as can, limited by the air supply.  If you start at multiple places, or get a lot going at one place, you are set up to overshoot.  Once you overshoot you will have a heck of a time trying to lower it again.  Chasing the temperature is frustrating, and often fruitless.

    2) Whatever temp. I am aiming at, start dampening down before you get there.  When aiming at 225 I start dampen down about 190.  < 1" at the bottom, and similarly restricted at the top, keeps the fire from getting too big. Slowly creeping up to the goal avoids overshooting.  To hold 225 I end up with a very small opening at the lower vent (1/4"...maybe), and equivalently small openings at the top (most closed via offsetting the daisy ring, a few open a touch).  This slowly getting to temp, and then dampening it down more than seems reasonable, keeps me near the right temp and with the right kind of smoke.  Choking a too big burn is not the way to end up with good smoke!
    Stay Calm and Egg On
    1 lonely medium in Rockville, MD
  • buzd504
    buzd504 Posts: 3,824
    edited February 2016
    Paul B. said:
    Thanks all!!!   To make sure I am clear - you start and when u hit 225 - shut it down right away...  I know the temp is going to drop when I put my place setter, pan w apple juice, grate and shoulder in...  My fear has always been that I will kill the fire for this drop in temp so I let it go a little higher.  I should however stop it at 225 and it will get back to the 225 without fear of it going out
    when the temp drops, it is the temp of the ambient air around the thermometer, which is being cooled by the meat and the platesetter (as well as both of those acting as heat sinks by absorbing thermal energy which is then not available to heat the air).

    As long as you aren't changing the airflow, your FIRE isn't changing or getting cooler.  Introducing cold objects into your egg won't snuff the fire.  The only thing that will snuff the fire is cutting off the oxygen (or running out of lump).


    NOLA
  • 500
    500 Posts: 3,177
    Here is how I did my last low and slow Boston Butt cook Saturday night..I completely cleaned out the Egg of leftover lump and ashes.  Reassembled, and loaded with the largest chunks of lump in the bottom first, then filled in with a controlled dump.  Half way to 3/4 of the way to the top of the fire ring, I added two large chunks of hickory.  Added more lump on top of the hickory to nearly fill the Egg almost to the top of the fire ring.  I used a weed burner on a low flame for one minute dead center, or slightly forward of dead center.  Let that go with the lid open for a few minutes, then closed lid, with no DW and open bottom vent.  After about 10 minutes, I began shutting it down, top and bottom.  After the temp reached 250 dome, I added the cold plate setter, with one leg pointing opposite the draft door.  Again waited, and again kept closing it down until I got it to 250 dome temp. After another 20 minutes, to assure that the temp was stable, I added the two pork butts.  From start to finish, lighting to meat on, was 1 hour and 15 minutes.  After adding the meat, I did not touch the settings, and I left the lid closed all night, from 10:30pm to when I opened it at 8am the next day, when I pulled them off.  No water pan, just a drip pan. I don't have a guru or digique or anything like that; just a wireless dual probe thermometer, but on this cook, I didn't even set the alarms on it, and left the receiver downstairs for the night.  It was the first time I felt confident enough to not have to check it through the night.  This technique worked for me.  Take it as you will to help your technique.
    I like my butt rubbed and my pork pulled.
    Member since 2009
  • You have plenty of wood in there for many hours of smoke if you are cooking at 225 (or 300). You actually don't want to see "strong smoke". You want the smoke to settle in and clear up. If you can smell it and barely see it, that is what you want.  You want it to clear up and be barely visible. White billowy smoke is acrid and full of compounds you don't want on your food. All the opening, stirring, and closing are probably the problem. Let it settle, clear up, and keep the dome closed. You will get good clean smoke which is what you want. If you just can't stand the fact that you can't see strong smoke, stick your hand over the top vent for 5 seconds and give it a whiff. You'll see there is plenty of good, clean smoke flavor in there. 




    Keepin' It Weird in The ATX FBTX
  • Ladeback69
    Ladeback69 Posts: 4,482
    I have had better luck controlling temps on L&S with my new Smokeware SS cap I go for Christmas.  I bought the SS Flat Cap yo help with snuffing the fire out better.  It is worth it.  I highly recommend it if you are looking for a good accessoire.  It also keeps the snow and rain out.  
    XL, WSM, Coleman Road Trip Gas Grill

    Kansas City, Mo.
  • Thanks a lot for the tips!  i will light less, leave everything open for a shorter period of time and wait until the white smoke is gone before putting food on the egg!

    Just to keep learning - drip pan....  In my opinion If there is no liquid the drippings burn up in the drip pan (may be in part because of my overheating problem) but I put apple juice catch all the drippings, get rid of the fat and make a au jus/bbq type mixture...  I like it when reheating and its not thick and over powering....  Any other opinions/ideas?
  • SmokingPiney
    SmokingPiney Posts: 2,282
    edited February 2016
    @Paul B., The problem with liquid in drip pans is your temp will spike after the liquid has evaporated unless you keep adding to it. I leave an air gap underneath the drip pans to keep the drippings from burning. I use rolled up aluminum foil under the pan.
    South Jersey Pine Barrens. XL BGE , Assassin 24, Weber Kettle, CharBroil gasser, AMNPS