Kamado Joe Wire Mesh Fiberglass Gasket Install and Review

nchaviano

First time poster, long time lurker.  I have had my BGE for about 5 years now and just got around to replacing the gasket.  I noticed for a few months that my original gasket was falling apart, but I didn't want to replace the gasket with the original one it came with.  To say it lightly there are an overwhelming number of options when it comes to which gasket to use including (but not limited to):

1. No Gasket
2. OEM BGE Gasket
3. Rutland
   
4. Nomex
5. Gold Standard (Kevlar/Nomex)

In doing research for this, I used this forum to look at reviews and posts of what people use.  I would say 90% of all posts concerning gasket replacements say to use a Rutland.  The support for this is very high and is a one-and-done solution.  Members here and in other BGE forums give rave recommendations for using the Rutland.  Because of this, I bought a Rutland from Ron and decided I wanted to put this on my BGE.  Unfortunately, I have a flaw which is analysis paralysis.  I got very caught up in the worry that I would install the Rutland incorrectly (or not perfectly), apply too little/too much Permatex, etc. etc.  Ron gives great, detailed instructions, but I just didn't trust myself to do it. 

In continuing my research, I saw a post by user haroldopsf where they installed a Kamado Joe Mesh Fiberglass Gasket on their big green egg.  They detailed the installation and application of the gasket and followed-up recently stating they had done all types of cooks both high and low temp and the gasket performed well.  I tried to find additional posts and information about using the KJ gasket, and there just wasn't much there.  In the spirit of giving back to this community which has given me so much, here is some more anecdotal evidence that the KJ Mesh Fiberglass Gasket is amazing.

INSTALL:

1. The first part of any gasket replacement is removing the old gasket completely.  This, as many of you know, is a PIA and requires a lot of elbow grease to get off.  I didn't use any alcohol/nail polish remover/ electric tools and instead used a kitchen sponge.  This worked really well since my gasket was really toasted. 
   
2. The KJ gasket has a 3M adhesive strip on the back, so installation couldn't be easier: simply remove the backing and place on the rim of the egg.  I have a Large BGE, so I had to buy the kit for the Big Joe.  You will have leftover mesh, but it was very simple to cut.  The great thing is the kit has tape so that you can make the seal seamless between the cuts (see the pictures).
3. I had a choice.  The kit comes with enough gasket to do the top and the bottom.  In the original post by haroldopsf, they put the gasket on both the top and the bottom.  I decided to only apply the gasket on the bottom and leave the top bare.  This is because the KJ gasket is pretty thick and spongy, and I didn't think it needed it on the top. 
   
4. After install, I ran the egg at 325 for 2-3 hours to ensure the seal properly cured. 
   

Here are some pictures (please note,my egg was GROSS at the time of the install, and is very clean now )

Review and Notes:

I couldn't be happier with the ease of install and the final product.  The seal is superb, and after cooking on it, only having the gasket at the bottom is plenty sufficient.  There really is only one flaw, and this could be a deal breaker for some.  The gasket costs $99.00.  The best method for doing this would be to go-in with someone and split the cost since you only need half of it.  Again, I am not suggesting this is the best solution, but it worked really well for me: installation was impossible to screw up which was my biggest concern (second to, you know, actually working).  I hope this helps someone who is trying to decide what to do with replacing their gasket!

Carolina Q

Thanks for posting, However...
$8.59 Permatex
$9.00 ± Rutland (about $5 when I bought it). No idea what Ron charges.
$17.59
Easy to install, and mine's about 10 years old now, going strong.

bge_massachusetts

Thanks for the excellent write up!  I don't need a gasket yet, but I always read about them for when the time comes.  The ease of install makes it a contender for sure!  Came out great.  Only using one side makes sense, the KJ uses a latch to keep the two thick gaskets sealed, removing material and letting gravity do the rest was smart

Dondgc

Enjoyed your post. I just installed a Rutland and understand your fears, but it really was very straightforward. Glad your installation went well! Thanks again for the write-up.

HogFather

I wonder what drives a person to be a member here for 4 years and their first post is about installing a dumbazz KJ gasket.

Let's see a cook or two instead of pushing KJ crap

speed51133

only thing i don't like about the permatex and rutland setup is that orange color....

flexfusion

Hey HogFather how about cutting the guy a little slack.  He's only trying to be helpful and it's appreciated at least by me.  

nchaviano

@Carolina Q from a pure economics standpoint, you are absolutely right.  It is hard to justify spending so much more on something that will work just as well as the Rutland.  My fears were simply just improperly installing the Rutland.  I think it is also worth emphasizing this point-  I am in no way questioning the effectiveness of the Rutland.  I know it works from the testimonials literally everywhere.

nchaviano

@HogFather I am not pushing anything KJ.  I am just posting on a topic that doesn't have a lot of information.  If anything, this may drive more people to buy a Rutland.  No need to gatekeep.  I don't know if you noticed, but if you take the 3rd letter from every line, it spells out "BUY KAMADO JOE ACCESSORIES."

TEXASBGE2018

Glad you like it and good write up. I myself don’t like the idea of potentially voiding my lifetime warranty by putting an aftermarket gasket on my egg but I know tons of people do. So when I eventually do need a new one ill go original or get one of the BGE high heat nomex ones.

HeavyG

TEXASBGE2018 said:

Glad you like it and good write up. I myself don’t like the idea of potentially voiding my lifetime warranty by putting an aftermarket gasket on my egg but I know tons of people do. So when I eventually do need a new one ill go original or get one of the BGE high heat nomex ones.

If you're concerned about a third party gasket voiding your warranty you should also avoid using anything like a Kick Ash Basket, a CGS adjustable rig, CGS Woo, CGS Spider, etc. since the warranty does state that  using any parts inside the EGG other than authentic BGE components will void the warranty.

Carolina Q

speed51133 said:

only thing i don't like about the permatex and rutland setup is that orange color....

It goes away quickly. Turns brown, then black.

TEXASBGE2018

HeavyG said:

TEXASBGE2018 said:

Glad you like it and good write up. I myself don’t like the idea of potentially voiding my lifetime warranty by putting an aftermarket gasket on my egg but I know tons of people do. So when I eventually do need a new one ill go original or get one of the BGE high heat nomex ones.

If you're concerned about a third party gasket voiding your warranty you should also avoid using anything like a Kick Ash Basket, a CGS adjustable rig, CGS Woo, CGS Spider, etc. since the warranty does state that  using any parts inside the EGG other than authentic BGE components will void the warranty.

You got me there. I guess the way i'm looking at it is those things are removable, whereas if I send a picture of my cracked egg with a wire mesh gasket bonded to it with orange goop dripping out the sides its pretty obvious it didn't come from the factory that way.

alaskanassasin

TEXASBGE2018 said:

HeavyG said:

TEXASBGE2018 said:

Glad you like it and good write up. I myself don’t like the idea of potentially voiding my lifetime warranty by putting an aftermarket gasket on my egg but I know tons of people do. So when I eventually do need a new one ill go original or get one of the BGE high heat nomex ones.

If you're concerned about a third party gasket voiding your warranty you should also avoid using anything like a Kick Ash Basket, a CGS adjustable rig, CGS Woo, CGS Spider, etc. since the warranty does state that  using any parts inside the EGG other than authentic BGE components will void the warranty.

You got me there. I guess the way i'm looking at it is those things are removable, whereas if I send a picture of my cracked egg with a wire mesh gasket bonded to it with orange goop dripping out the sides its pretty obvious it didn't come from the factory that way.

Just send them a picture of the crack. 

stlcharcoal

Not a PIA to remove the old gasket.  Get the egg hot, then scrape it off, torch the rest.  Easy-peasy when you use fire instead of chemicals, abrasives, or elbow grease.

texaswig

I used grey permatex.looks nice.

BGNMI

Rutland, works great. And I am a heavy user. I actually bought a whole roll. But have only had to do it once. Great write up on the KJ gasket. Thnks

Lumpy_Coal

Good write up, thanks.  

I have a BGE and three KJs and at least three of the four will need gaskets soon.  

Curious, why only on the base?

Also, does it matter which permatex, grey or orange?

For the OP, if you have the large BGE you would only need a gasket for the KJ Classic as they are the same size.  

nchaviano

@Lumpy_Coal

Just having the gasket on the bottom is perfect to keep everything air tight. I think having it on the top and bottom would be overkill.  I’ve had it just on the bottom and it works great for me.  I also didn’t use any permatex and just used the adhesive strip that was already on it.  Everything is rock solid, and I can’t recommend it enough!

Mark_B_Good

So 7 months in and everything is still okay with the KJ gasket?

Langner91

Couldn't you screw up a Rutland like 5 times and still have money left over to buy Ron a beer?

womaus

TEXASBGE2018 said:

HeavyG said:

TEXASBGE2018 said:

Glad you like it and good write up. I myself don’t like the idea of potentially voiding my lifetime warranty by putting an aftermarket gasket on my egg but I know tons of people do. So when I eventually do need a new one ill go original or get one of the BGE high heat nomex ones.

If you're concerned about a third party gasket voiding your warranty you should also avoid using anything like a Kick Ash Basket, a CGS adjustable rig, CGS Woo, CGS Spider, etc. since the warranty does state that  using any parts inside the EGG other than authentic BGE components will void the warranty.

You got me there. I guess the way i'm looking at it is those things are removable, whereas if I send a picture of my cracked egg with a wire mesh gasket bonded to it with orange goop dripping out the sides its pretty obvious it didn't come from the factory that way.

Maybe we should be careful too about the type of charcoal we use...they may ask for an ash sample to see if it was branded BGE?

nchaviano

@Mark_B_Good yes the KJ gasket is working flawlessly! I love it, and would recommend.  No issues whatsoever, and just putting it on the bottom has been more than sufficient.

@Langner91 The KJ gasket definitely isn't the most cost effective, but I didnt feel comfortable putting permatex on (not in the sense of voiding warranty or whatever, just didnt trust myself to do it right).

PigBeanUs

speed51133 said:

only thing i don't like about the permatex and rutland setup is that orange color....

you only see the permatex if you installed it wrong

PigBeanUs

This gasket (in the review) looks to be basically the same gasket as used for kitchen ovens. Fiberglass tube

the replacement gaskets for an oven have little wire clips that click into place. 

You’d of course want that without those. 

Think you can get it at McMaster Carr by the foot instead of paying someone else to repackage it under a brand name

Re the rutland. 

I have the first and oldest one installed with permatex. It is not complicated, require zero tools other than scissors

remove the old gasket. Clean the rim to degrease. No need to use abrasives or aggressively scrape it or sand it down. Just get down to a solid surface. 

Squeeze a thin zig-zag bead along the rim. No giant toothpaste-looking blob, no trowels or spreading, no over thinking. 

Zig-zag, and stay away from the inner and outer edge of the rim. Stay in the middle

start with a clean edge of the gasket at about the 11 o’clock position and go in either direction, laying down the gasket. Don’t stretch it to open the weave. Just keep it snugged back up against itself as you go. 

When you get to the end again, make a cut that is a little longer and allows you to scrunch it back against itself and to meet the other end. An extra small dab under each end is fine

again, position the seam at 11:00 or 1:00, not under the center back. This will minimize rubbing. 

No gasket on the top/dome. Remove the old felt there as well. 

Gasket and permatex will be found at any ace hardware

cheap cheap

Lit

PigBeanUs said:

This gasket (in the review) looks to be basically the same gasket as used for kitchen ovens. Fiberglass tube

the replacement gaskets for an oven have little wire clips that click into place. 

You’d of course want that without those. 

Think you can get it at McMaster Carr by the foot instead of paying someone else to repackage it under a brand name

Re the rutland. 

I have the first and oldest one installed with permatex. It is not complicated, require zero tools other than scissors

remove the old gasket. Clean the rim to degrease. No need to use abrasives or aggressively scrape it or sand it down. Just get down to a solid surface. 

Squeeze a thin zig-zag bead along the rim. No giant toothpaste-looking blob, no trowels or spreading, no over thinking. 

Zig-zag, and stay away from the inner and outer edge of the rim. Stay in the middle

start with a clean edge of the gasket at about the 11 o’clock position and go in either direction, laying down the gasket. Don’t stretch it to open the weave. Just keep it snugged back up against itself as you go. 

When you get to the end again, make a cut that is a little longer and allows you to scrunch it back against itself and to meet the other end. An extra small dab under each end is fine

again, position the seam at 11:00 or 1:00, not under the center back. This will minimize rubbing. 

No gasket on the top/dome. Remove the old felt there as well. 

Gasket and permatex will be found at any ace hardware

cheap cheap

When you spend 12 hours a day on the forum and dont cook sure the gasket will last forever. My rutland failed like 10 years ago but I also cook on it.

PigBeanUs

maybe you are just too stupid to glue down a gasket?

Lit

PigBeanUs said:

maybe you are just too stupid to glue down a gasket?o

Or all your dumb ass knows how to do is talk crap online. Loser

PigBeanUs

That was less than stellar work. 

You should work on these a bit more. 

Perhaps get a subscription to Reader’s Digest. It will help with vocabulary. And then of course all the wonderful jokes after each article. 

Hey. How was the flight back from D.C.?

jimmaki

I gave the KJ gasket a try using it just on the bottom of the BGE.  Although I don't see any smoke leaking out the seam, I noticed that with the usual cracked open top vent, and a FlameBoss fan mounted on the intake below, the Egg won't hold 200*F, it rises to about 210F-218F even with the FB fan off all the time. 

If I close the top vent all the way, then it will hold 200F with the FlameBoss fan running between 14% and 0%.  Fine with me but if the top vent is closed then either the gasket has a slow leak or air is getting out somewhere else. 


The top vent is the new OEM type that doesn't move when you open the lid and takes some effort to move.  I don't think it's a hermetically perfect seal, but even with the old worn out gasket, if I closed the top vent the temp would drop below 200F.

I think to form a good seal, the KJ needs the same clamping system to put more than the weight of the dome on the gasket.  If air is leaking by the gasket, even if I can hold a 200F temp closing the top vent, it isn't ideal since I doubt much, if any, new smoke or heated air is making it up into the dome (and the meat).

nchaviano

@jimmaki that is disappointing to hear! I use my flameboss on mine and it is rock solid for me in terms of temp.  I haven’t tried smoking anything lower than 225 though, so I can’t vouch for the seal at those temps.  Interesting though, and thanks for providing that information and your experience.