OT: Trip to Austin

CMH88

Inspired by @dirty_denim86 recent trip to Austin, I finally bit the bullet and booked a trip to Austin from a Sunday to Wednesday afternoon. I'm looking to get feedback on my tentative plan, recommendations on things to do other than BBQ, and if there are any sketchy areas I should avoid staying in. The wife and soon to be 5 year old will be joining me on this adventure. 

Sunday: Micklethwait and La BBQ or Leroy & Lewis
Monday: Iron Works and Terry Blacks
Tuesday: Franklin and Stile/other or non BBQ
Wednesday: Valentinas before airport (1:25pm flight)

Now on to strategy... I'm concerned about the 2nd stops for dinner being sold out of brisket or their other signatures. Does it make sense to hit my top choices first so I'm not disappointed if brisket or beef ribs are sold out later in the day when I go for round 2? Franklin, Micklethwait, and Valentinas are my must haves, the others can be switched out as necessary. The above schedule takes into account the posted days/hours on their respective websites.

Looking forward to the critiques and suggestions!

JohnInCarolina

The sketchy areas are the ones with the best tacos.

I’m just saying…

Ragingirishman2

Will you have a car?  About 30 min outside of Austin is Treaty Oak Distillery. It has beautiful grounds and they serve delicious food and family friendly. You seem to have an agenda but thought I would throw this out there. 

Langner91

It has been 21 years since I had a four/five year old, so don't take this personally.  I am sure your little one is a perfect mini-human.

But, I would rather eat at McDonalds than stand in line with a hungry pre-kindergartener for an hour before each meal.  

But, that's just me.  You got this!

TechsasJim

If you want to stray from BBQ and get some Tex Mex El Arroyo is always a good time.   

Jstroke

I am not sure what “booked” entails so if you have bought plane tickets, disregard. 

Having raised three boys, this is my observation. Trips or activities that meant alot to me, or I was super interested in we’re best left to weekends where little ones could be left at home. Especially if I was trying to cram in as much as I could in a short amount of time. If kids are coming, then reduce activities by at least 50% and plan on being fluid. The whole experience is going to be better for everyone. I speak from having my own frustrations with agendas that had to be modified due to unrealistic expectations of young children. 

lousubcap

Check out the days when your desired stops are open as many in the Austin area are closed Monday and Tuesday.  

WeberWho

lousubcap said:

Check out the days when your desired stops are open as many in the Austin area are closed Monday and Tuesday.  

That's some great advice. 

CMH88

Appreciate the advice so far. We will have a car which should help open up some options. I hear everyone regarding a small child. My hope is there are some interesting things to do around the locations where my wife can take him and keep him occupied while I wait in line; playground, museum, open space, etc. 

Perhaps I'm underestimating the wait times at some of these places. I know Franklin will be long, but hoping since it's Tuesday it won't be as bad. I figured Micklethwait would probably have something, but wasn't sure about the others.

Definitely interested in non BBQ spots as well since we'll probably end up doing that once to break up all the brisket!

We have the southwest companion pass which is why the family is tagging along. 

Foghorn

@The Cen-Tex Smoker should have some good advice.  I know of some stuff to do when it is warm there - like paddleboard on Ladybird Lake, etc, but don't have a lot of good suggestions for this time of year that would be of interest while traveling with a child.

I will say that we did a lot of travel with our kids - essentially from birth.  They can stay up for an evening event (like a broadway show when in New York - or fireworks at Disney) every other night.  But on the alternating nights we had them in bed early.  If we strayed from that there was a price to pay.  

In the past, we have stayed at the Sheraton - which is walking distance to Franklin's.  But that was mostly because a buddy of mine was the general manager there and got us cheap rooms.  It's a good hotel with a good central location.

LDR

For non-BBQ (you heathen!) beyond Tex-Mex, I would recommend finding a place for chicken fried steak.  It's been a long time since I was there, but had several good ones.  Here are some ideas:

https://atxguides.com/best-chicken-fried-steak-in-austin/

alaskanassasin

Watch the bats fly assuming they are there this time of year, not sure on that

Legume

alaskanassasin said:

Watch the bats fly assuming they are there this time of year, not sure on that

Summer thing.  They have a winter place in Mexico.

Legume

@CMH88 when are you going?

CMH88

2/19

Legume

Crapshoot on the weather.  Could have a nice fake spring then.  I saw iron works on your list.  That's an old one, I haven't heard that name in a really long time and have no idea how it stacks up now.  It was around before any of the others on your list, old Austin along with green mesquite and other places that seem to have faded in the bright light of the newer places.  It used to always be filled with businessmen from downtown at lunch time.  A room full of white dress shirts with sleeves rolled up and ties tucked into the shirt, leaning over a plate of bbq is quite a sight.

EggObsessed

For a BBQ break, I would very highly recommend Tex-Mex at Matt's El Rancho on S. Lamar. They are an institution. I lived in Austin for about 30 years and Matt's was always my go to, whether for ourselves, or taking guests, meeting friends. Their FRESH LIME margaritas are exceptional! They have one taco plate called "Asadero Tacos" and they are on the Texas Monthly "100 Tacos You Must Eat Before you Die" list. They are filled with chunks of beef filet, with Asadero cheese "browned onto" the tortilla. Over the years, we've ordered them many ways, with the guidance of the wait staff. Our final version, which I highly recommend, is: Get them on flour tortillas, medium rare, order the cilantro and onion MIXTURE as a garnish. If you are a big jalapeno or garlic fan, you an order GRIDDLED jalapenos, and/or garlic. Incredible!!! Matt's has been open for 70 years!! We have lived an hour and a half away from Austin for the past 5-6 years, and still make the monthly drive to Matt's for a "fix". They are closed on Tuesdays. We've even run into Cen-Tex there!! 

nolaegghead

Don’t forget to schedule an angioplasty when you get back….🤪😂

Botch

Was it "5th Street" that had all the clubs/restaurants/nightlife on it?  I remember having so much fun there the first couple years, and when TX went to a 21-yr drinking age it hurt them pretty badly (close to UofT).  Great bands in every club, delicious smells everywhere, and cutie college coeds comingling!     

TechsasJim

Botch said:

Was it "5th Street" that had all the clubs/restaurants/nightlife on it?  I remember having so much fun there the first couple years, and when TX went to a 21-yr drinking age it hurt them pretty badly (close to UofT).  Great bands in every club, delicious smells everywhere, and cutie college coeds comingling!     

6th street.    Great for the younger crowd for sure. 

Dyal_SC

Great food trucks throughout. 

The Cen-Tex Smoker

CMH88 said:

Inspired by @dirty_denim86 recent trip to Austin, I finally bit the bullet and booked a trip to Austin from a Sunday to Wednesday afternoon. I'm looking to get feedback on my tentative plan, recommendations on things to do other than BBQ, and if there are any sketchy areas I should avoid staying in. The wife and soon to be 5 year old will be joining me on this adventure. 

Sunday: Micklethwait and La BBQ or Leroy & Lewis
Monday: Iron Works and Terry Blacks
Tuesday: Franklin and Stile/other or non BBQ
Wednesday: Valentinas before airport (1:25pm flight)

Now on to strategy... I'm concerned about the 2nd stops for dinner being sold out of brisket or their other signatures. Does it make sense to hit my top choices first so I'm not disappointed if brisket or beef ribs are sold out later in the day when I go for round 2? Franklin, Micklethwait, and Valentinas are my must haves, the others can be switched out as necessary. The above schedule takes into account the posted days/hours on their respective websites.

Looking forward to the critiques and suggestions!

Sunday: Leroy and Lewis is head and shoulders above the other 2. Go there first and hit one of the others if you still Have the stomach for it (you probably won’t)

Monday: skip iron works (really obscure old school place but has long been passed by with all the new places coming on board). Iron works would be so far down my list you would have to stay here a month to get there. Terry blacks is really good. 

Tuesday: Franklin only. Stiles sucks, and you will be at franklin for hours. Do your family a favor and don’t spend 6 hours a day chasing bbq. It’s great, but not that great. 

Wednesday: yes

you are missing interstellar which is another top 3 in the state joint here in Austin (ranked above Franklin in the last list). I would try to make time for that and bail on any thought of iron works or stiles switch. 

As far as the other things to do: Tex Mex- Kelly has it nailed with Matt’s El Rancho. Classic Tex Mex and margaritas. I have taken JIC and other forum friends there. It’s great. 

I know people come here for bbq and that’s cool. I think you are selling yourself way short and standing in lines all week to eat the same food over and over. If I laid a piece of franklin brisket, Valentina’s brisket, Leroy and lewis brisket, Terry black brisket, and 5 others on a plate, you could not tell them apart. One might be slightly better on that given day or more likely, you got a fresher slice or a piece with extra bark from one of them that was on point that day. Austin has a world class food scene with amazing restaurants and food trucks. Stretch your legs a little. Hit some of the classics for bbq, and get out there to try some other things. 

Things a 5 year old would enjoy other than standing in line for bbq:

if the weather is nice, take a hike on the greenbelt. Could be 80, could be 30 in February so plan accordingly. 

There is a Kalahari waterpark resort that has recently opened out in the burbs. My kids loved that place when we lived in Wisconsin. Would be a huge treat and awesome reward for towing him all over to eat bbq. It’s indoors so if the weather sucks, might be a nice diversion. 

Austin library is world class and a super cool visit. Right downtown.  

Other things to eat:

dinner:


ATX Cochina- upscale Mexican (not Tex Mex). Great food and drinks. Reservations required (assume any place for dinner needs a reservation in Austin, no matter which night)

Uchiko- amazing Japanese fusion restaurant by James Beard award winning chef. Easily top 5 restaurant in Austin. Bring your wallet. 

casual: LORO- co-owned by Aaron Franklin and Tyson Cole (Uchiko/Uchi). Super cool vibe, counter service and a sneaky good brisket bite if they are on that night (it’s a coin toss but always serviceable and a cool twist on Texas bbq).  Tons of other great bites on the menu. 

Breakfast: go light or skip it on heavy bbq days. If the wife and kid need something;

Kirby lane cafe: serviceable diner style pancakes/eggs etc

breakfast tacos anywhere. This is an Austin staple. I eat breakfast tacos several days a week and so does everyone else. Valentinas is the king (real deal Holyfield) but a simple bacon, egg, potato, and cheese with good salsa can be had a gas stations. And they are great. 

Be glad to walk you through anything else.. eat all the brisket you want but I highly recommend mixing in a few brisket free days. So much more to do and see here. 

The Cen-Tex Smoker

EggObsessed said:j

For a BBQ break, I would very highly recommend Tex-Mex at Matt's El Rancho on S. Lamar. They are an institution. I lived in Austin for about 30 years and Matt's was always my go to, whether for ourselves, or taking guests, meeting friends. Their FRESH LIME margaritas are exceptional! They have one taco plate called "Asadero Tacos" and they are on the Texas Monthly "100 Tacos You Must Eat Before you Die" list. They are filled with chunks of beef filet, with Asadero cheese "browned onto" the tortilla. Over the years, we've ordered them many ways, with the guidance of the wait staff. Our final version, which I highly recommend, is: Get them on flour tortillas, medium rare, order the cilantro and onion MIXTURE as a garnish. If you are a big jalapeno or garlic fan, you an order GRIDDLED jalapenos, and/or garlic. Incredible!!! Matt's has been open for 70 years!! We have lived an hour and a half away from Austin for the past 5-6 years, and still make the monthly drive to Matt's for a "fix". They are closed on Tuesdays. We've even run into Cen-Tex there!! 

Could not have said it better. I would add a large Bob Armstrong queso to everything you recommended. 

The Cen-Tex Smoker

Ragingirishman2 said:

Will you have a car?  About 30 min outside of Austin is Treaty Oak Distillery. It has beautiful grounds and they serve delicious food and family friendly. You seem to have an agenda but thought I would throw this out there. 

Great spot. Would have to do that on Sunday as I don’t believe they are open Monday or Tuesday. Sunday is the best day out there anyway. Have taken several forum peeps out there over the years and it’s always a hit. If the weather is nice, it’s a great spot and will be loaded with families/dogs/kids. 

lousubcap

And there you have all you need to know and more.  I am refining my next objectives as I read the above from @The Cen-Tex Smoker.  Ground truth right there.  

Foghorn

+1 on Uchiko.

Eggdicted_Dawgfan

+1 for BBQ once a day instead of twice. And definitely skip a day if you have more than 2-3 days there. Looking forward to trying some of these non-bbq recs from the locals here next time I’m in town. 

lousubcap

If pressed for time and a narrow window of opportunity, if you only go after brisket (1 slice lean and 1 fatty) at each place you can get three stops done in a day.  

The Cen-Tex Smoker

lousubcap said:

If pressed for time and a narrow window of opportunity, if you only go after brisket (1 slice lean and 1 fatty) at each place you can get three stops done in a day.  

I have still never seen anything like the pace you keep when you come down. It’s impressive. You eat as much brisket in 3 days as I do all year lol. 

The Cen-Tex Smoker

I just read your “must haves”. Although they are all good choices, if I were doing a bbq tour of Austin (or recommending to friends and family), my must-haves would be Interstellar, Franklin, Leroy and Lewis-with Valentina’s for breakfast/lunch. Mickelthwait is good but it’s a full step down from any of those 3. I would throw Mickelthwait strongly in the #2 category with La Barbecue and Terry Blacks (probably the best of that group). Iron works and styles switch a full step down from them- I would never recommend either to anyone visiting town with limited time to eat the best bbq. Mickelthwait is really known more for their homemade breads, sides and desserts. Their meats are average. Can be real hit and miss. Even when they are on, full step down from the other 3 I mentioned. 

As far a sketchy places to stay…I don't think that would be a problem if you are staying in a hotel. Downtown is awesome and will be kid-friendly on Sunday-Wednesday. 6th street gets very dangerous on weekends after midnight. Shootings every weekend down there. Completely out of hand. Mostly drunk college kids, gang bangers, and homeless people down there on weekend nights. You could not pay me to go there on a Friday or Saturday.  2 blocks from there is beautiful with great restaurants and bars. You would never know you were so close to the sh!t show. 

Let me know when you get some ideas on what you are thinking and I’ll make sure you land in a good spot. 

CMH88

Thanks again everyone for all the great information! It's apparent I mixed up Interstellar with Iron Works, which throws a wrench in my plans due to their schedule. Here's my 2nd go at the food schedule:

Sunday: L&L and Interstellar (maybe Treaty Oak in between)
Monday: Terry Blacks and Loro
Tuesday: Franklin and Matt's
Wednesday: Valentinas

I don't see any other way to get both L&L and Interstellar since they are closed Monday and Tuesday. I have no problem being the last person to board the plane, but I don't want to risk having to bail and miss BBQ completely that day. Plus, I really want to try Valentinas. 

@The Cen-Tex Smoker thanks so much for all of the additional detail. We will definitely check out the library and hopefully get a hike or two in if the weather is nice. Also good to know I don't need to worry much when my wife and kid wander around without me while I'm standing in lines.