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Start of 'Egg Crate' build

I have a lot of stuff accumulated that goes with my XL BGE.   More than I EVER had even after 30 years of Weber!   So, Now I've got pizza stones, plate setter, minimum of 40lb of lump at ALL times, and all the Rest of the stuff to make this work.   

So, I've started making an 'Egg Crate' to store everything.   I'll be stationary, but WILL have casters so if I must, I Will be able to move it.  

I've started building frames for each side.   And experimenting with a Pocket Hole tool.   That will come in handy when I start on the TABLE, sometime later this fall.  

Anyway, this is the first photo of what is in progress.   All 4 side frames are done and routed.   This is as I was drilling pockets to attach the various pieces together.   Final product will have a plywood 'floor' and I'm thinking CEDAR for the tip-off lid.   

This is the pocket jig on the base I made and clamped TO my 'bench'.  The vacuum is 30+ years old and keeps the work area clean.  Next phase of assembly starts TOMORROW!


  • Jstroke
    Jstroke Posts: 2,600
    Looks like a solid start. Cant wait to see the next steps
    Columbus, Ohio--A Gasser filled with Matchlight and an Ugly Drum.
  • Chubbs
    Chubbs Posts: 6,929
    I am so jealous of everyone's workspace, tools, and skills. Looks great and can't wait for final product
    Columbia, SC --- LBGE 2011 -- MINI BGE 2013
  • Hawg Fan
    Hawg Fan Posts: 1,517
    Nice start on your project.  Looking forward to seeing the final product.

    Any road will take you there if you don't know where you're going.


    Rockwall, TX
  • Begger
    Begger Posts: 566
    Workspace IS an issue, no doubt.   I use the garage but must be DONE at the end of the day for the wifes car.    Sometimes I can claim the space for a couple days at a time, but that will change when WINTER hits.  
    I also spent a couple DAYS cleaning / sweeping / organizing this space so I'd have room for the CHEAPEST compound miter saw / stand and the other goodies I've accumulated over time.   

    I'm building my Egg Crate in pieces so I can store them between sessions.   Once assembly starts, I'm all-in.
  • that vac is the first thing I noticed!  I remember having one of those at home with my parents wayyyyyy back when!!!

    Interested on what all you have planned for this guild.  Definitely following....

    LBGE #19 from North GA Eggfest, 2014

    Stockbridge, GA - just south of Atlanta where we are covered up in Zombies!  #TheWalkingDead films practically next door!

  • Begger
    Begger Posts: 566
    Simple goal:   I want ALL my BGE supplies in ONE place and near the grill.    Container must be RAIN PROOF and sit above the ground.    
    And since I own 2 pizza stones AND a plate setter, along with a starter chimney, ash tool,  assorted home made ceramics and spacers (no aluminum allowed!) along with a small supply of smoking woods, a bag of lump, starters, grill mitts (silicon high temp) and more stuff,  the box will by ABOUT 27"x34"x44" external HxWxL.    I'm already thinking I've gone overboard.   But I also can't imagine running out of space, either.

    Next will be a table for which I already posted the Sketchup Rendering.   NO drawers in the table.   Just get moldy, collect BUGS and be a PIA to keep clean.  And I'd STILL need a place for the REST of the stuff.  

    Today?  I finished the 4 side frames.   I need to reinforce the BACK frame to take a pair of hinges AND the weight of the lid.   The Lid will overlap the box so water doesn't get in.   The lid will be 'pitched' back to front for water runoff.   I have ADA compliant 'offset' hinges suitable for a DOOR so the lid will swing FREE of the box and allow for my design goals.   

    I may work on the box tomorrow and take some more pics of which I'll publish ONE.

    And yes, that vac is ancient.   I bought it with my Diesel Rabbit of 1980.   The car was junk, but the Vac lives on!
  • caliking
    caliking Posts: 18,502
    Could the crate double as work space?may be more comfortable if it were a little higher. I'd like a space to store some gadgets and lump outside, so I'm keen on your finished product too. 

    #1 LBGE December 2012 • #2 SBGE February  2013 • #3 Mini May 2013
    A happy BGE family in Houston, TX.
  • Begger
    Begger Posts: 566
    My table, a future project (next in line!) will encorporate prep areas to the left and right of the egg.   I have an 18"x18" piece of 30mm granite which may end up as an 'add-on' table which clips on the main egg table.   

    The Egg Crate MIGHT have had a seat built into the top, but at 27", PLUS proposed casters, it is too tall.

    Rendering of proposed table:
  • Begger
    Begger Posts: 566

    Shot of first 2 sides going together.   NOTE:  corner clamps to help with getting at least CLOSE to a right angle.  
    Additional brace is clamped to the cleats which will be used as the support for the FLOOR of the 'crate.

  • Begger
    Begger Posts: 566
    All 4 sides are now glued together into a box.   
    Next steps, in approximate order are to install FLOOR.   Than I need to reinforce for the Hinge because the lid will be fairly heavy.  
    A lid build is a seperate item and I'll also need to 'trim' the box for appearance sake.   Some 1/2 round moulding where screws are visible from OUTSIDE the box.
    I love those pocket screws.

    Interior view showing pocket screw recesses AND the corner clamps used to stabilize while the glue sets up.  
  • Begger
    Begger Posts: 566
    measured corner-2-corner, top and bottom, the shell is only 1/4" difference between measures.  
    Considering my utter LACK of experience, I'm giving myself a 6 on a 10 point scale.

    Floor with reinforcing is NEXT.  
  • Begger
    Begger Posts: 566
    Bottom fitted / glued and Screwed.   

    VERY rigid structure now and weight is beginning to grow.   

    Pictures tomorrow.  Next step is to PAINT the bottom with KILZ and a coat of WHITE Exterior House Paint.   Than add mounts for Casters (Castercity?) and than work on the LID and interior.   

  • Nice detail work on your panels. You will not regret making the storage box too tall for a seat.  Making it the same height as your table works out well for work area and staging.  So the caster sizes and load ratings you choose for both will be important.  

    I was after the same goal as you.... Rain proof storage for almost as much stuff.  This is a cedar table with the same general design as an egg table but the top is hinged.  It lifts for access to the dry box underneath.  Table approx 5ft long by 3ft tall and 2ft deep.  Better than a resin deck box for so many reasons.  

    Best wishes for your project. 

  • Begger
    Begger Posts: 566
    Thanks, Buckwoody, for the vote.
    I LIKE your approach.   I hadn't thought of making the box / table at the same height.   I dont' have quite the same space needed to pull that off.   And while I'm planning on casters for the 'egg crate', it will be mainly 'parked' out of the way.
    Here is update with floor installed:
  • Begger
    Begger Posts: 566
    Picture update SOON.
    Box is complete except for standing ceramic storage.   but even That is mostly done.    I need to borrow access to a Drill Press so I can PRECISELY drill holes for dowel rod supports.    The bottom is sealed with Latex / Acrylic both inside AND out.  This would float without leaks.   
    2 coats of ugly white outdoor fence paint / stain installed.   I used Harbor Freight casters but spent 45 minutes greasing the swivel ball bearings.  Internal shelf for small items including chimney, starters, various hardware and my 'lighter'.

    Next is the 'lid'.   I couldn't make the lid the original way I wanted using hinges, since I insist on near-submersible sealing ability.   

    Another 2 weeks and I'll post up-to-date photos.
  • Photo Egg
    Photo Egg Posts: 12,108
    There are some Eggers n this forum with mad skills...
    Thank you,

    Galveston Texas
  • kl8ton
    kl8ton Posts: 5,286
    Large, Medium, MiniMax, & 22, and 36" Blackstone
    Grand Rapids MI
  • Begger
    Begger Posts: 566
    I wish I DID have 'skills'.   Everything is a learning curve.   Every cut an adventure.   
    I did some things imperfectly and would even do a few things very differently in the 'Mark II' box.  But for the intended purpose?  I think it's OK.

    And, I can STAND in the box.   With 2 bags of Charcoal and all the goodies, net weight of OVER 300lb.   Not a creek or groan of complaint.  
  • RaySMS
    RaySMS Posts: 42
    keep enjoying your build as you learn as you go.....I have been a handyman and am always learning things so just keep learning
  • GregW
    GregW Posts: 2,666
    edited April 2016
    Chubbs said:
    I am so jealous of everyone's workspace, tools, and skills. Looks great and can't wait for final product
    Money can buy the tools, it's the skill that amazes me. Even if I had all the best tools I doubt I could build te beautiful tables that I have seen the members of this site build.
    There are true craftsmen among us. Guys that can give Norm Abram good competition.
  • Begger
    Begger Posts: 566
    I won't invest large amounts of $$ in tools until I have a better skillset.    To that end, I'm still using my 50+ year old 6 1/2" skilsaw.  
    I'm using a Kreg Pocket Hole system for most of my construction and sprung for a cheap chop saw / stand.   My Makita drill is going on 30 years.   I have a Scintilla jig saw, which was bought out by BOSCH in the early 50s, so you know how old THAT one is, too.   The Scintilla is SWISS MADE.   

    One thing I've learned to do is IMPROVISE.   I'll spend 1/2 hour drawing what I want to do.  Another 1/2 hour measuring and noodling.   Than I'll spend the time to make the jigging so I only do it ONCE.  

    For those interested in becoming better woodworkers, you can't MISS by going to the local JC.   Most will have a credible woodshop program starting with the absolute basics.   Near me is a school with a program which will even go as far as production methods and guitar building.  

  • Coul
    Coul Posts: 111
    can't wait to see the end result.
    LBGE circa 2016
  • Begger
    Begger Posts: 566
    Current situation report:

    Box complete.   Lid fabricated and ON.   I used offset hinges so the hinges are partially concealed AND the entire lid is designed to shed rain.    The lid overlaps the box, too.  Water would have to flow UPHILL to get into the box.

    1.   Some minor trim pieces.   I have 'half round' for that use.  
    2.   Touch-up paint
    3.   Lid Prop rod or some other way to secure lid UP.

    Than, I'll need some HELP to move this monster to the back yard.   Final size was over 29 cubic feet.    
  • Begger
    Begger Posts: 566
    Here are the FINAL photos.
    Box ended up at ALMOST 1 cubic meter.   For those in Peoria, that's about 30 cubic FEET.  

    It is WAY too large, but will hold EVERYTHING including maybe 5x bags of charcoal, and ALL the ceramics and goodies.   And, as my wife is fond of reminding me, a couple bodies, too.  

    I still need to fabricate the INTERIOR ceramic stand-up rack.   Those parts are NOT pictured.   I need to find a buddy with a DRILL PRESS so I can set up jigs and drill ALL the holes exactly the same.  

    The LID is completely OVERLAPPING the edge of the box.   Water would have to flow UP HILL to get in.   Bottom is sealed and waterproof.   My 250lb neighbor kid STOOD in the box while I wheeled it around.   It's on Harbor Freight 4" casters.   

    Hinges are for HOUSE DOORS and are ADA compliant 'offset' hinges.   This was KEY to getting the box both waterproof AND with an easy to open lid.   
    The Middle photo shows a tiny bit of the sash chain used as the lid holder.

    Lid fits tight and you can DROP it closed from a FOOT or more and it closes with a 'whoosh'.  

    If I had thought it all thru from the beginning, several detail would change since the hinge  reinforcing is all 'pieced' together ad-hoc.  

    Lid pitches FORWARD about 2 degrees to shed water.  I used fence / deck stain for waterproofing and durability.  
  • Begger
    Begger Posts: 566
    I've use OVER 3/4 of a gallon on this box.   That's a LOT of painting.   2 coats over ALL the exterior, the bottom inside and out and everywhere else but the inside of the lid.   
  • Begger
    Begger Posts: 566
    It is now June of '22
    Box holds up well with the only complaint being the need to sand / refinish the top of the lid, which I've done 2x since the box was complete.
    Still holds everthing.   Rolls smoothly 

    Things I'd change or fix?
    1.    Better finish for top so It doesnt' check.
    2.   Better door open design.    those chains work....but are a bit touchy....

    some of the improvosation parts, made from just what I had on hand COULD have been better made.   

    NO BUGS inside, either.    I think the stink of the burned charcoal in the trash bag or the outgassing of the new charcoal tends to 'repel' them......
  • HeavyG
    HeavyG Posts: 10,167
    Nice box and good of you to follow up with the status update.
    I'd probably replace the change with a gas strut or two - the lid will open up very easily but, most importantly, would eliminate any chance of the wind blowing the lid shut and possibly mashing a hand/finger.

    “Reality is that which, when you stop believing in it, doesn't go away.” ― Philip K. Diçk

    @Cornholio called me a weirdo... can't say that I disagree.

    Camped out in the (757/948/804)

  • Begger
    Begger Posts: 566
    No change in status YEARS later.
    Lid needs sanding and paint AGAIN.     Winter and Rains are coming.....
    I need to figure out if I can get something better for either coating it or some kind of cover sheet.
    Interior is full of charcoal residue, but still NO bugs.   And while the sash chain is a PIA, it's MY pain and works well with Zero accidental wind closures after all this time.