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VOCs?

I've always wondered this question and never asked. Now that I have you guys, I have no excuse. Let's say I just loaded up a load of lump and started the fire in the middle. Do the surrounding VOCs burn off at a certain temperature?  I've always waited until I get a clear, non-foul smelling smoke, but have always wondered about the other pieces of lump that will eventually light during the cook. Are the VOCs burnt off at the beginning even when not lit? 
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Comments

  • johnnyp
    johnnyp Posts: 3,932
    VOCs burn off at temp, regardless if lump is actually lit.

    if you have good smoke, you're good to go
    XL & MM BGE, 36" Blackstone - Newport News, VA
  • TigerTony
    TigerTony Posts: 1,078
    @Travis13  - great question.   I've wondered the same thing myself. 
    "I'm stupidest when I try to be funny" 
    New Orleans

  • blasting
    blasting Posts: 6,262
    I agree, great question.  If you don't mind I'll ask a related question.  For lack of a better option, I use Royal Oak.  It takes 1 1/2 - 2 hours to get good smoke on a full load.  I see some guys talking about putting food on in 45 minutes.  My question, are they using a different lump that the VOC's burn off faster?
    Phoenix 
  • As I understand the VOC's once the lump gets to something like 1200 degrees and that is the temp it burns at the VOC's are gone. I have added new lump to an overnight cook with no bad smelling lump. I learned the VOC info at the Naked Wiz site. As for the Royal Oak lump taking so long to get clean smoke I have found that they are not doing a very good job at the factory burning the lump until it is all carbonized, I find a lot of nearly raw wood pieces and they will produce some very nasty smoke for a very long time. This is something that has become more frequent in the last year or so. I now inspect all lump going into the egg and pick out the pieces that look under done, they are usually brown and not black, they will burn with a flame like a starter cube. So if using Royal Oak and you are getting some nasty smoke start digging around in the lump looking for where the smoke is coming from and dig that piece out. I think this is the reason so many Eggers do not like Royal Oak, I love Royal Oak because of the price and it's all I can by other than Cowboy lump in my area unless I pay the big $$$$$$ for Big Green Egg lump and that is just not going to happen. Hope this has been helpful. :)

    I'm only hungry when I'm awake!

    Okeechobee FL. Winter

    West Jefferson NC Summer

  • They dont burn off.  They get carried away on air. Volatile in this sense means easily vaporized

    In a practical sense, you could air out the lump on a tarp all spread out and you'd lose much of the VOCs. Not that you'd actually do that...

    it's the draft that carries them away. And the heat of the interior makes the VOCs more volatile. 
    [social media disclaimer: irony and sarcasm may be used in some or all of user's posts; emoticon usage is intended to indicate moderately jocular social interaction; the comments toward users, their usernames, and the real people (living or dead) that they refer to are not intended to be adversarial in nature; those replying to this user are entering into a tacit agreement that they are real-life or social-media acquaintances and/or have agreed to or tacitly agreed to perpetrate occasional good-natured ribbing between and among themselves and others]

  • Thanks Darby I did not know that!:o

    I'm only hungry when I'm awake!

    Okeechobee FL. Winter

    West Jefferson NC Summer

  • what makes perfumes smell are volatile organic compounds.  same for new paint in your living room.  neither are considered especially 'flammable'. 

    'volatile' has a couple meanings in the dictionary, but in this case, it actually has nothing to do with fire or burning.  it really just means "what makes the stuff smell like fuel".   the fire introduces a draft as well as increases the heat, but it doesn't need to hit 1200 degrees.  it's just that the warmer it is, the easier the stuff vaporizes.

    just like how the perfume smells different on a women's warm neck than it does as a straight spray
    [social media disclaimer: irony and sarcasm may be used in some or all of user's posts; emoticon usage is intended to indicate moderately jocular social interaction; the comments toward users, their usernames, and the real people (living or dead) that they refer to are not intended to be adversarial in nature; those replying to this user are entering into a tacit agreement that they are real-life or social-media acquaintances and/or have agreed to or tacitly agreed to perpetrate occasional good-natured ribbing between and among themselves and others]

  • I just ordered my first bag of the Rockwood lump. I hope it is better than the cheap stuff I have been using. So one is safe to assume that a new load of lump exposed to 250* as well as the air flow associated with the heat, will get rid of the VOCs in a given amount of time? 
  • Put your hand in the smoke and smell your hand. If it smells good, you're good. 
  • Theophan
    Theophan Posts: 2,656
    blasting said:
    I agree, great question.  If you don't mind I'll ask a related question.  For lack of a better option, I use Royal Oak.  It takes 1 1/2 - 2 hours to get good smoke on a full load.  I see some guys talking about putting food on in 45 minutes.  My question, are they using a different lump that the VOC's burn off faster?
    When I first got my first Egg, I assumed, maybe incorrectly, that the lump the BGE company put its name on must be good, so I used it, and I've been so happy with it that I've never used anything else.  I gather it's the same as Royal Oak.  I don't know why my experience is wholly unlike yours, but it is.  I added some lump to what was in there last evening, lit the fire, and had heavy white smoke for I'd guess 15 minutes.  Then it settled down, no smoke, great food.  I cooked chicken breasts last night, with just a little bit of a rub, so it was delicate stuff, and there was just the slightest hint of a smoky flavor that was delicious, and not "off" in any way.  I'd say my experience is the same if it was nearly empty and I filled the whole thing up with new lump.  I can't imagine waiting for an hour and a half to cook.  It's never happened.

    And about VOCs leaving when it gets up to 1200?  I think there's a misunderstanding there.  The point about "volatile" (the "V" in VOC) is that they are compounds that sort of evaporate at pretty low temperatures, even a little bit, slowly, at room temperature, so they leave very much faster as the lump gets even a little bit hot.
  • In my own testing, things happen with lump around 350F.  The temp will rise for several hours.......then if you weigh it after the temp drops back down, it lost about 10% of its weight.  But the carbon is not burning--that won't light off until you get it up toward 700F.

    So at the ~350F it's the remaining wood, tars, and/or liquors that are burning, off-gassing, whatever.  This stuff burns slower than carbon, so the more you have, the longer it's going to take to burn off during a normal fire. 

    BTW, there is nothing scientific to this: it was me, my large BGE, and a FB200 with the meat probe covered in charcoal fines.  I wanted a rough idea what was going to happen before everything was sent to the lab for similar tests (but will occur at much lower temps.)
  • Eggcelsior
    Eggcelsior Posts: 14,414
    VOCs really get going with evaporation just under 300 degrees. This has to do with the air next to the lump itself,not the done temp. Otherwise, they disperse naturally, which is why anything containing charcoal smells like it for a time.
  • we're all saying the same thing, and no one is reading it.

    so it goes.
    [social media disclaimer: irony and sarcasm may be used in some or all of user's posts; emoticon usage is intended to indicate moderately jocular social interaction; the comments toward users, their usernames, and the real people (living or dead) that they refer to are not intended to be adversarial in nature; those replying to this user are entering into a tacit agreement that they are real-life or social-media acquaintances and/or have agreed to or tacitly agreed to perpetrate occasional good-natured ribbing between and among themselves and others]

  • My comment about 1200 was not dome temp I was referring to the temp down in the middle of a pile of burning lump, I could be off about 1200 though. I'm not off about a piece of lump that has not been carbonized enough. :)

    I'm only hungry when I'm awake!

    Okeechobee FL. Winter

    West Jefferson NC Summer

  • DaveRichardson
    DaveRichardson Posts: 2,324
    edited September 2015
    More than likely you have some partial carbonized lump as mentioned before, or slightly damp lump that will generate more smoke than usual.

    All lump, if wet, can do that!  Its nothing specific to RO.

    I use Forest Lumps, Carbon Del Sur, and Rockwood almost exclusively.  Here in the lovely muggy, humid Southeast, if the bag has been out for a while or its been very humid over the past few days, the lump is usually a little smokier.

    @stlcharcoal - he is the charcoal man!  Listen to him!

    LBGE since 2014

    Griffin, GA 

  • Jstroke
    Jstroke Posts: 2,605
    In my own testing, things happen with lump around 350F.  The temp will rise for several hours.......then if you weigh it after the temp drops back down, it lost about 10% of its weight.  But the carbon is not burning--that won't light off until you get it up toward 700F.

    So at the ~350F it's the remaining wood, tars, and/or liquors that are burning, off-gassing, whatever.  This stuff burns slower than carbon, so the more you have, the longer it's going to take to burn off during a normal fire.  

    BTW, there is nothing scientific to this: it was me, my large BGE, and a FB200 with the meat probe covered in charcoal fines.  I wanted a rough idea what was going to happen before everything was sent to the lab for similar tests (but will occur at much lower temps.)

    I am going to concur with STLCHARCOAL. i have watched my egg burn these off many times. If you look down the hole at around 350 you can see the flames coming around the plate setter and going up the sides of the dome. After a little while they go away. These are the tars and liquors burning off that remain in the lump from manufacturing. And yes, better lumps have less of this. 

    Columbus, Ohio--A Gasser filled with Matchlight and an Ugly Drum.
  • nolaegghead
    nolaegghead Posts: 42,109
    We can pontificate on how VOCs impact our cook all day and at the end of the day, we'll be more confused than ever. 

    From an academic standpoint, know this:  charcoal is an excellent material for adsorption of organic compounds.  Those compounds are released around their boiling points, which range from below ambient temperature to over 550 F.  There are also possibly some uncarbonized organics in there. 

    You don't need to know any of that.  What you do need to know is how they behave in context of building a fire to cook. 

    The ideal to shoot for is to keep your fire hot.  If you don't need much heat, then that means keep it small.  Do not disturb it (stirring up the lump causes bad smoke).  In physical terms, like Stike said, the heat of the near-by fire causes these compounds to out-gas.  They mix with the flue gasses and exit the top vent.  Some of them burn.  When you have a large smoldering fire, as when you start your lump, there is an excess of VOC in the flue gas.  As that fire establishes, it gets hotter and reaches an equilibrium where they add flavor but are in a low enough concentration to not excessively condense on the food (which is relatively cold) and negatively impact the flavor.

    If there were no VOCs, it would taste like you're cooking in an oven or gas grill.  The stuff you see is particulates (ash and moisture).
    ______________________________________________
    I love lamp..
  • YukonRon
    YukonRon Posts: 17,447
    According to the EPA and the "Clean Air Act" from around 1970, a VOC is a volatile organic compound. Organic chemistry is about compounds that have Carbon. However, the way the law is written, it has to include hydrogen, oxygen and nitrogen. The way it is written, would suggest water is a VOC.
    Perhaps you have purchased a solvent that provides information of the VOC content, less water on the label, that is why.
    The VOCs we are trying to control are in liquid form when mixed with other elements, and evaporate out over time. Carbon slows the evaporation considerably, and as mentioned earlier, the more heat energy you add to readily evaporating elements, the more chemistry occurs.
    Much of the evaporation rate begins at a temperature often referred to as "Flash Point." That is when evaporation begins, add heat at a certain level and you will get fire. In super cold environments, you can light a match, put it in gasoline, and the match will extinguish. We all are familiar when lighting gas, on a warm day and the match not getting close to the wet gas, lighting a powerful flame.
    the smoke you see being released is defined as particulate contamination. The source is likely carbon based, it needs much higher temps to evaporate.

    "Knowledge is Good" - Emil Faber

    XL and MM
    Louisville, Kentucky
  • well.  volatile compounds are considered 'volatile' because they will form vapor at well below their flash point, ordinary room temps. it may be that they can burn (which would mean 'volatile' in another sense), but the reason they are called 'volatile' by definition is because they readily become vapor (at room temp), not because they might burn. 

    what you smell when you smell gasoline are volatile organic compounds.

    no need for high heat.

    the smell you smell when you open a bag of charcoal is VOCs.
    pretty simple concept folks.

    the longer it airs out, the less VOCs.  speed the airing out by applying some heat and a draft, and good to go.

    yesterday's lump will have much less of this stuff, only whats' entrained in the charcoal or what comes from burning.

    the big picture is the stink at start up.  if no stink, you are good to go.  it comes down to "if it smells good, it is good."

     


    [social media disclaimer: irony and sarcasm may be used in some or all of user's posts; emoticon usage is intended to indicate moderately jocular social interaction; the comments toward users, their usernames, and the real people (living or dead) that they refer to are not intended to be adversarial in nature; those replying to this user are entering into a tacit agreement that they are real-life or social-media acquaintances and/or have agreed to or tacitly agreed to perpetrate occasional good-natured ribbing between and among themselves and others]

  • Jupiter Jim
    Jupiter Jim Posts: 3,351
    edited September 2015

    I'm only hungry when I'm awake!

    Okeechobee FL. Winter

    West Jefferson NC Summer

  • Can someone explain to me how VOCs enter the lump after being turned from wood into our lump at the "lump factory "?   I mean... It's already been burned at a very high temp for quite some time to get to this lump state that we just dumped into our egg...   Are you telling me 20 or 30 more minutes after I light it the lump is that  much better?    If that's the case then why don't lump companies burn it for an additional 20-30 minutes and market it as VOC free lump ?  
  • nolaegghead
    nolaegghead Posts: 42,109
    @marysvilleegger Yes, I can.  If they made a super pure lump, they would have to store it in air-tight bags, like potato chips, and they would have much lower yields, as the carbon which is the lump will also be converted if there's any oxygen to a gas.  So it would be expensive.  And it's not really a big deal.  You can buy this lump.  You won't want to pay for it though.  It is called binchotan.
    ______________________________________________
    I love lamp..
  • stlcharcoal
    stlcharcoal Posts: 4,764
    edited September 2015
    Jstroke said:
    I am going to concur with STLCHARCOAL. i have watched my egg burn these off many times. If you look down the hole at around 350 you can see the flames coming around the plate setter and going up the sides of the dome. After a little while they go away. These are the tars and liquors burning off that remain in the lump from manufacturing. And yes, better lumps have less of this. 
    I wasn't going off dome temp, everything I did was temp of the charcoal itself.  If you see red, the temp of the charcoal is easily 1000F+ and you're burning carbon.  It's warming a cold egg, and the that temp gauge is 2ft away--has nothing to do with "VOCs" at that point.  The tars and liquors are in there from mother nature, manufacturing gets them out.  With today's emissions reqs, it's pretty tough to get them all out since you can't slow burn.

    I should have clarified......The lump I was testing was in a foil pan above the platesetter.  I was using other lump to generate heat and using it to "bake" the lump in question.  I was trying to create a poor man's autoclave.  The meat probe was covered in lump fines and the pit probe was attached to the foil pan.  I maintained at a certain temps for 24 hrs to the pan to see what the fines temp did.  Then I'd start over with new fines, increase the temp by 10-20F and see what happened over the next 24.  Dome temp and the firebox temp were not any part of this.  The weight was always reduced, but the increase in the fines temp always occurred around 350F then burned for several hours.
  • Thanks @nolaegghead ....   Now off to google binchotan....
  • I'm trying to find graphs.  With other ones at higher set temps you would see the meat temp (charcoal fines in pan) start to climb away exponentially from the pit temp when it they when they reached 340-350.  Then the "meat" would hold the higher temp for 4-6 hrs until dropping back down.  Weight would be reduced 10-15%.  Since our charcoal fines are 80-85% carbon, it makes sense.

    Initially the "meat" temp would be lower than pit temp while they warmed up and what I assumed to be the remaining moisture evaporating.  After that, the remaining wood, tars, and liquors are all that is left.  At the end of the test, I could pull the pan out and handle the fines within 30-60 seconds--they were not ignited (carbon was not burning.)
  • Eggcelsior
    Eggcelsior Posts: 14,414
    Thanks @nolaegghead ....   Now off to google binchotan....
    It's sweet, you could egg in your kitchen. It would be cheaper to eat out, though. 
  • When you guys prepare for a long cook, do you get your dome up to around 300* and then bring it back down? Or do you get it at target temp, say 225* and leave it there until you have clean smoke. I have always done the latter? 
  • I wait till the smoke passes the smell test..... hold the hand in the smoke for 5 seconds then smell the hand..... if it smells good, then you are good to go....

    LBGE since 2014

    Griffin, GA 

  • Acn
    Acn Posts: 4,493
    Thanks @nolaegghead ....   Now off to google binchotan....
    It's sweet, you could egg in your kitchen. It would be cheaper to eat out, though. 

    I've had fish grilled on binchotan tableside.  Pretty nice touch.

    LBGE

    Pikesville, MD

  • lkapigian
    lkapigian Posts: 11,629
    edited September 2015
    blasting said:
    I agree, great question.  If you don't mind I'll ask a related question.  For lack of a better option, I use Royal Oak.  It takes 1 1/2 - 2 hours to get good smoke on a full load.  I see some guys talking about putting food on in 45 minutes.  My question, are they using a different lump that the VOC's burn off faster?
    I Use RO all the time, most of my cooks are over nighters- Full load of lump ( fresh ) I start with a FULL Chimney lighter,  I also leave my lump un covered and I do live in a dry climate-- I think most of the VOC's have dissipated long before it goes in the egg-- Good To Go in 15-20 minutes---1.5-2 hours is an awful long time
    Visalia, Ca @lkapigian