OT- Buyer beware, don't buy these products - OT

Begger

I just looked at the post by Golden.

Your USA 3wire system is HOT, NEUTRAL and GROUND......There should never be any current flow on the ground, as near as I know.   
That's why some circuits in your house have GFI Breakers.   ANY current flow thru the ground is cause for instant trip.    This is how you can get away with using a toaster while taking a bath.....

paqman

The Cen-Tex Smoker said:

4TheGrillOfIt said:

I researched new refrigerators recently.  Looking for a French door with ice in the door, counter depth to replace my aging Maytag.  Literally looks like there is not a good, reliable choice to be found.  My Maytag was top of the line 14 years ago and I recall having it repaired 3 times during first year.  It appears that I’ll run into the same problem no matter what I choose today!  

Ice in the door is the killer. I'll never consider it again unless the whole concept is reengineered. I learned more about ice in the door fridges that I care to admit trying to diagnose my Samsung. That was the main issue it it, the ice leaked and dripped out onto the slide out deli drawer, which had a digital control panel on it. Well that control panel is not waterproof so i shorted out after 3 months. The "fixed" the ice maker after 6 months for $800, replaced the deli drawer, then it all happened again. No warranty coverage, they just disappeared told me to beat it. 

To top it all off, all the condiment/dairy shelves were in the door. Every single one of them fell apart. In 6 months. I had to tape them back together to get them not to separate. Freezer went out once during this time as well. I don't recall a single system that lasted more than 6 months before it started to fail on that fridge. and 100% of the things we fixed failed again within months (except the freezer). 

Long story short, having an ice maker in you refrigerator as opposed to your freezer is a very very bad idea. 

I have ice in the door in my LG and it still works great after ?10? years.  My only complaint is that food on the back of the refrigerator sometime freezes if something falls underneath the meat drawer and blocks a vent located on the back there.  Same goes if the shelves are overloaded and an item is blocking the air circulation traps.

dbCooper

Botch said:

Whirlpool here.  27 years old.  Zero issues/repairs.  
This thread has me hoping it stays that way.  

I have a Whirlpool Signature fridge about that vintage, zero issues here too.  The evap coils are a single layer and span about 75% of the real estate on the back side.  Simple job to pull out the fridge and clean them every couple years, which is nice. 

Paying $0.07/kW here in summer months (.05 in winter), so modern efficiency not a big driver to replace it.  

Botch

This appeared on my Ewetube feed, I don't know why as I'm not in the market for anything, but it was VERY good, an appliance repairman gives his reccs/bewares for all the major appliances.  Posting it so I can find it in the future if necessary.
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cRgbfxJ8MTQ

fishlessman

My work fridge is from the maybe 30 s. I changed the gasket.  House and camp 70's  no problems unless I way over pak the freezer

Botch

alaskanassasin said:

Botch said:

Whirlpool here.  27 years old.  Zero issues/repairs.  
This thread has me hoping it stays that way.  

 The only issue with that is it probably costs you $50 a month to run.

You got my curiousity up; I checked and my latest utility bill was $33.50, so no.  
 

fishlessman

alaskanassasin said:

Botch said:

Whirlpool here.  27 years old.  Zero issues/repairs.  
This thread has me hoping it stays that way.  

 The only issue with that is it probably costs you $50 a month to run.

No. That's not true.  That's how they sell you a 2000 dollar fridge

alaskanassasin

Botch said:

alaskanassasin said:

Botch said:

Whirlpool here.  27 years old.  Zero issues/repairs.  
This thread has me hoping it stays that way.  

 The only issue with that is it probably costs you $50 a month to run.

You got my curiousity up; I checked and my latest utility bill (with some A/C on it) was $33.50, so no.  

fishlessman said:

alaskanassasin said:

Botch said:

Whirlpool here.  27 years old.  Zero issues/repairs.  
This thread has me hoping it stays that way.  

 The only issue with that is it probably costs you $50 a month to run.

No. That's not true.  That's how they sell you a 2000 dollar fridge

I bought a old ass freezer at a auction and our power bill went up $60 a month, but it was probably a coincident.

alaskanassasin

alaskanassasin said:

Botch said:

alaskanassasin said:

Botch said:

Whirlpool here.  27 years old.  Zero issues/repairs.  
This thread has me hoping it stays that way.  

 The only issue with that is it probably costs you $50 a month to run.

You got my curiousity up; I checked and my latest utility bill (with some A/C on it) was $33.50, so no.  

fishlessman said:

alaskanassasin said:

Botch said:

Whirlpool here.  27 years old.  Zero issues/repairs.  
This thread has me hoping it stays that way.  

 The only issue with that is it probably costs you $50 a month to run.

No. That's not true.  That's how they sell you a 2000 dollar fridge

I bought a old ass freezer at a auction and our power bill went up $60 a month, but it was probably a coincident.

I am not being facetious, it seemed crazy to me but I never dug in deeper.

  That is a amazing power bill @Botch! How is it so cheap? 

Botch

I don't know.  My next bill, I'll have to check to see how it compares to @dbCooper's $0.07/kW.
In the summer months, I've seen my gas bill dip below $10/mo.  

fishlessman

alaskanassasin said:

Botch said:

alaskanassasin said:

Botch said:

Whirlpool here.  27 years old.  Zero issues/repairs.  
This thread has me hoping it stays that way.  

 The only issue with that is it probably costs you $50 a month to run.

You got my curiousity up; I checked and my latest utility bill (with some A/C on it) was $33.50, so no.  

fishlessman said:

alaskanassasin said:

Botch said:

Whirlpool here.  27 years old.  Zero issues/repairs.  
This thread has me hoping it stays that way.  

 The only issue with that is it probably costs you $50 a month to run.

No. That's not true.  That's how they sell you a 2000 dollar fridge

I bought a old ass freezer at a auction and our power bill went up $60 a month, but it was probably a coincident.

Havean old ac,  that is no good.  Fridge is different. My house bil is low. Camp is killing me with an83 percent increase with electric heat

EGGjlmh

The Cen-Tex Smoker said:

4TheGrillOfIt said

I researched new refrigerators recently.  Looking for a French door with ice in the door, counter depth to replace my aging Maytag.  Literally looks like there is not a good, reliable choice to be found.  My Maytag was top of the line 14 years ago and I recall having it repaired 3 times during first year.  It appears that I’ll run into the same problem no matter what I choose today!  

Ice in the door is the killer. I'll never consider it again unless the whole concept is reengineered. I learned more about ice in the door fridges that I care to admit trying to diagnose my Samsung. That was the main issue it it, the ice leaked and dripped out onto the slide out deli drawer, which had a digital control panel on it. Well that control panel is not waterproof so i shorted out after 3 months. The "fixed" the ice maker after 6 months for $800, replaced the deli drawer, then it all happened again. No warranty coverage, they just disappeared told me to beat it. 

To top it all off, all the condiment/dairy shelves were in the door. Every single one of them fell apart. In 6 months. I had to tape them back together to get them not to separate. Freezer went out once during this time as well. I don't recall a single system that lasted more than 6 months before it started to fail on that fridge. and 100% of the things we fixed failed again within months (except the freezer). 

Long story short, having an ice maker in you refrigerator as opposed to your freezer is a very very bad idea. 

I had the same problem in a Frigidaire a few years ago.  They came out and realized I had too low water pressure going to the fridge. I hooked the fridge water to my already installed water pressure booster and it fixed the problem. I can't explain why it worked but that is the first thing they checked. You might give that a try. 

cssmd27

4TheGrillOfIt said:

I researched new refrigerators recently.  Looking for a French door with ice in the door, counter depth to replace my aging Maytag.  Literally looks like there is not a good, reliable choice to be found.  My Maytag was top of the line 14 years ago and I recall having it repaired 3 times during first year.  It appears that I’ll run into the same problem no matter what I choose today!  

We have a 25 year old Sub-Zero that still works perfectly.  Far and away the best refrigerator I've ever owned with exceptional, even chilling and no freezing.  Hoping I never have to replace it as I was at the appliance store a few weeks ago and the prices were shocking.  But, it is built like a tank.

4TheGrillOfIt

The Cen-Tex Smoker said:

4TheGrillOfIt said:

I researched new refrigerators recently.  Looking for a French door with ice in the door, counter depth to replace my aging Maytag.  Literally looks like there is not a good, reliable choice to be found.  My Maytag was top of the line 14 years ago and I recall having it repaired 3 times during first year.  It appears that I’ll run into the same problem no matter what I choose today!  

Ice in the door is the killer. I'll never consider it again unless the whole concept is reengineered. I learned more about ice in the door fridges that I care to admit trying to diagnose my Samsung. That was the main issue it it, the ice leaked and dripped out onto the slide out deli drawer, which had a digital control panel on it. Well that control panel is not waterproof so i shorted out after 3 months. The "fixed" the ice maker after 6 months for $800, replaced the deli drawer, then it all happened again. No warranty coverage, they just disappeared told me to beat it. 

To top it all off, all the condiment/dairy shelves were in the door. Every single one of them fell apart. In 6 months. I had to tape them back together to get them not to separate. Freezer went out once during this time as well. I don't recall a single system that lasted more than 6 months before it started to fail on that fridge. and 100% of the things we fixed failed again within months (except the freezer). 

Long story short, having an ice maker in you refrigerator as opposed to your freezer is a very very bad idea. 

Yes, that was the root of my problems with my current one.  Since year one though no problems for us.  Your experience would make my head explode 🤯.

alaskanassasin

Botch said:

I don't know.  My next bill, I'll have to check to see how it compares to @dbCooper's $0.07/kW.
In the summer months, I've seen my gas bill dip below $10/mo.  

My barn/shop power has "Supply" and "Delivery" listed separately so if I add those two together we get $53.01/477KWH = $0.11

nolaegghead

Surge protectors on everything here, including the first load center (that feeds two more load centers).  Refrigerators have their own.  All major entertainment appliances have them also)

RyanStl

The Cen-Tex Smoker said:

RyanStl said:

The Cen-Tex Smoker said:

4TheGrillOfIt said:

I researched new refrigerators recently.  Looking for a French door with ice in the door, counter depth to replace my aging Maytag.  Literally looks like there is not a good, reliable choice to be found.  My Maytag was top of the line 14 years ago and I recall having it repaired 3 times during first year.  It appears that I’ll run into the same problem no matter what I choose today!  

Ice in the door is the killer. I'll never consider it again unless the whole concept is reengineered. I learned more about ice in the door fridges that I care to admit trying to diagnose my Samsung. That was the main issue it it, the ice leaked and dripped out onto the slide out deli drawer, which had a digital control panel on it. Well that control panel is not waterproof so i shorted out after 3 months. The "fixed" the ice maker after 6 months for $800, replaced the deli drawer, then it all happened again. No warranty coverage, they just disappeared told me to beat it. 

To top it all off, all the condiment/dairy shelves were in the door. Every single one of them fell apart. In 6 months. I had to tape them back together to get them not to separate. Freezer went out once during this time as well. I don't recall a single system that lasted more than 6 months before it started to fail on that fridge. and 100% of the things we fixed failed again within months (except the freezer). 

Long story short, having an ice maker in you refrigerator as opposed to your freezer is a very very bad idea. 

If my fridge freezes up again. I saw a YouTube video on what to do to help that Samsung didn't bother with. Sad thing is they can fix these problems, but don't because people buy anyway. The are priced low and look nice.

I did all those things (I assume you mean the caulking video). Did not work

Yeah, plus foam spray and thermometer relocate 

QDude

RRP said:

Langner91 said:

RRP said:

I close the 16/3 for a wall mounted box in my work shop to be used for battery charging and powering a hand held sander. No heavy duty usage. 

@RRP, If I were looking for banking advice, I would certainly come to you.  With that said, since I am an Electrical Engineer, albeit one who partied studied at Iowa, I have to say that if it is a standard outlet, you should use heavier wire.  Just because you only plan to plug a sander and a battery charger into it, doesn't mean the next person, who didn't wire the outlet, won't see it as a standard outlet and plug their deep freeze, dehumidifier, Shop vac, or some other higher amp product into it.  It needs to carry 15 amps safely, and depending on what the breaker size is, it should be 12gage wire.  The price difference at Ace would probably have been $1 or 2.

I know you probably aren't going to sell your house, but if you ever do, how will the next person know that outlet is "only for battery charging and powering a hand held sander?"

Just my 2¢.

Ok guys...the fought for 16/3 wire is out and hard wired 12/3 romax on a 15 amp circuit it will be! 

Ron,

12-3 would typically be used for 3 way switches.  I believe you need 12-2 with ground (3 wires).  12-3 would have 4 wires.

paqman

QDude said:

RRP said:

Langner91 said:

RRP said:

I close the 16/3 for a wall mounted box in my work shop to be used for battery charging and powering a hand held sander. No heavy duty usage. 

@RRP, If I were looking for banking advice, I would certainly come to you.  With that said, since I am an Electrical Engineer, albeit one who partied studied at Iowa, I have to say that if it is a standard outlet, you should use heavier wire.  Just because you only plan to plug a sander and a battery charger into it, doesn't mean the next person, who didn't wire the outlet, won't see it as a standard outlet and plug their deep freeze, dehumidifier, Shop vac, or some other higher amp product into it.  It needs to carry 15 amps safely, and depending on what the breaker size is, it should be 12gage wire.  The price difference at Ace would probably have been $1 or 2.

I know you probably aren't going to sell your house, but if you ever do, how will the next person know that outlet is "only for battery charging and powering a hand held sander?"

Just my 2¢.

Ok guys...the fought for 16/3 wire is out and hard wired 12/3 romax on a 15 amp circuit it will be! 

Ron,

12-3 would typically be used for 3 way switches.  I believe you need 12-2 with ground (3 wires).  12-3 would have 4 wires.

Based on what I have seen here, Ron should probably hire an electrician.

RRP

I have already thrown that DAMN $13 REPLACEMENT piece of 16/3 wire from ACE in the trash! It was hauled off to our local landfill on Tuesday! 

theyolksonyou

RRP said:

I have already thrown that DAMN $13 REPLACEMENT piece of 16/3 wire from ACE in the trash! It was hauled off to our local landfill on Tuesday! 

That’s not very environmentally responsible 

xfire_ATX

Gulfcoastguy said:

Judging by my parents, the ice maker of LG fridges. 

I replaced my motor assembly and back in business.

Now however the stop valve wont completely shut off so the water line freezes up except a tiny amount of water, I get one dump of ice every 2 days.  Bought the part realized need some specialized tool to get the compression fittings to work... $100 lesson.  My appliance guy "I dont work on LG or Samsung"

A month ago after buying bags of ice for 6 months bought a tabletop icemaker from costco.   Almost paid for itself now.  In basically a half a day I can make enough ice to fill empty bin and a Gallon Ziploc- this scenario lasts 3 days and then back to work.

The Cen-Tex Smoker

Botch said:

alaskanassasin said:

Botch said:

Whirlpool here.  27 years old.  Zero issues/repairs.  
This thread has me hoping it stays that way.  

 The only issue with that is it probably costs you $50 a month to run.

You got my curiousity up; I checked and my latest utility bill was $33.50, so no.  
 

do you get billed weekly? That is cheap. Of course I live on the surface of the sun in summer so $33.50 is a good day for us. 

Hansm

Whirlpool Duet all the way

RRP

Haven't read anyone else who had this problem...our ice maker in our GE caught on fire, right before we were headed for bed! SPOOKY just thinking we could have died that night from that fire as it obviously had enough oxygen to burn! I put it out using a small First Alert kitchen fire extinguisher suitable for grease plus electrical fires. 



GE sent a new ice maker and a service person to install it and he couldn't get it to work. Then GE dispatched a second "more senior" man to fix it - still nothing! GE -BELIEVE IT OR NOT- replaced the whole refrigerator! Then the stupid ice maker on the new one quit a few years later!

dmchicago

The Cen-Tex Smoker said:

Botch said:

alaskanassasin said:

Botch said:

Whirlpool here.  27 years old.  Zero issues/repairs.  
This thread has me hoping it stays that way.  

 The only issue with that is it probably costs you $50 a month to run.

You got my curiousity up; I checked and my latest utility bill was $33.50, so no.  
 

do you get billed weekly? That is cheap. Of course I live on the surface of the sun in summer so $33.50 is a good day for us. 

$585.00 is our current bill. We usually get 1-2 $600+ bills but much later in summer. 

Several walls of floor to ceiling windows look good but kill us in summer. 

theyolksonyou

Holy hell

Botch

dmchicago said:
$585.00 is our current bill. We usually get 1-2 $600+ bills but much later in summer. 

Several walls of floor to ceiling windows look good but kill us in summer. 

Yikes!  
I see pics of the McMansions on the benches and in Park City, with those huge windows, and often wonder what the cooling (and the heating) bills are like.  

Ozzie_Isaac

The Cen-Tex Smoker said:

Botch said:

alaskanassasin said:

Botch said:

Whirlpool here.  27 years old.  Zero issues/repairs.  
This thread has me hoping it stays that way.  

 The only issue with that is it probably costs you $50 a month to run.

You got my curiousity up; I checked and my latest utility bill was $33.50, so no.  
 

do you get billed weekly? That is cheap. Of course I live on the surface of the sun in summer so $33.50 is a good day for us. 

That is my problem, just got my electric bill for the month: $395.

CTMike

I'll add LG Refrigerators with the Linear Compressor. We paid $3600 for a 2 door, 2 drawer French style and the cooling system went out 6 times in 5 years. They refrigeration loop would develop a blockage on the high pressure side and that would cause the compressor to fail.

It got so bad that LG eventually agreed to cover such failures for 10 years because they were facing a class action lawsuit. 

I have a friend who was a Corporate Exec with LG at the time, and he was instrumental in getting LG to buy the fridge back from me (at a pro-rated cost). 

We used the funds to buy a 20 year old SubZero that will likely outlast me.