Draining Engine Oil vs Extracting Engine Oil

nolan8v

I've got a car that requires me to remove 17 screws in order to remove a plate underneath and access the oil plug. 

I'm considering purchasing an oil pump extractor. 

Anyone has any experience using one?

What are the pros and cons?

Eoin

nolan8v said:

I've got a car that requires me to remove 17 screws in order to remove a plate underneath and access the oil plug. 

I'm considering purchasing an oil pump extractor. 

Anyone has any experience using one?

What are the pros and cons?

I had a Lotus like that with a flat floor undertray. I still removed it to do the oil though, seems like you are going to maximise crud removal if you drain hot rather than pump, so I'd rather do that.

theyolksonyou

How much at the express lube?  Seriously, what PITA. 

Holepuncher

What kind of car? I want to make sure I don't buy one.

nolaegghead

One of my brothers is a European car mechanic.  He said that except for a few rare cases, they extract it. 

I have read that people have used the extraction method and checked to see if there was any in the oil pan by removing the plug, and none came out.

It's not that important to get every last drop anyway.  Make sure your oil is hot however you do it.

My extractor has a volume gauge, so I can see how much I get out.  I typically get 8.5 quarts out of 10 no matter how I do it.

Most important is changing your oil on schedule.  The interval is dependent on how hard the engine works and the type of oil you use, and use the manufacturer's range to figure out something that makes sense.

You can get your oil tested and find out if you're waiting too long.

Some quick oil change businesses use inferior oil.

nolaegghead

Harbor Freight has an extractor that's a bit over 100 bucks.  Uses compressed air to extract.

nolaegghead

A good argument for extracting can be made by the number of DIY people not replacing their crush washer on the drain plug, or stripping it because they don't use a torque wrench (or understand torque).  An oil leak from the drain plus is out of the question when extracting oil.

nolan8v

Thanks for the feedback gentlemen.

@nolaegghead, which make/model pump do you have?

lousubcap

In addition to many other qualities, @nolaegghead knows his oil at least on the forum.  Great info above-
And I am also wondering about the manufacturer that decided to sell that design.  Gotta be some exotic-
Edit: so much for the exotic-thanks for the info.  Good luck.

nolan8v

The car is a 2016 Kia Sorento, 3.3l 6 cylinder.

nolan8v

Nothing fancy but a pain in the !@# to unscrew 17 screws in order to access the drain plug.

I'm going to try the oil extractor method and see what happens.

nolaegghead

My pleasure.

I have the harbor freight extractor.

It's pretty common to put covers on the bottom of the car nowadays to make them more aerodynamically efficient.   My Cayman has them everywhere except the engine and transmission. 

Canugghead

Saw some youtube videos, what a PITA.
Just thinking out loud here, how about installing this valve (assuming suv has plenty of ground clearance), then cut a small access hole in the plastic panel, to connect drain hose and turn the lever? The access hole can be covered by a 'door' secured by snap rivets.
https://www.fumotooildrainvalve.com/with-elbow-joint-f316l-for-drain-plug-size-14mm-1-5.html

Wolfpack

Might void warranty. 

JohnnyTarheel

Oil extractor is way to go. I use mine to change oil for vehicles, mowers, power washers etc... works great!!  

calracefan

Don't think extracting would get as many solids removed as draining !

Hotch

Just curious about the removal of the oil filter? Is it accessible without removing the 17 screws?

Canugghead

Hotch said:

Just curious about the removal of the oil filter? Is it accessible without removing the 17 screws?

I could be wrong, perhaps oil filter change is a piece of cake if it looks like this? 

Canugghead

Wolfpack said:

Might void warranty. 

if you
1) use oil extractor?
2) install drain valve?
3) cut an access hole in the plastic splash guard?

Something to keep in mind though. FWIW, some car makers even claim warranty is voided if maintenance is not performed by certified technicians?  

Eoin

Canugghead said:

Wolfpack said:

Might void warranty. 

if you
1) use oil extractor?
2) install drain valve?
3) cut an access hole in the plastic splash guard?

Something to keep in mind though. FWIW, some car makers even claim warranty is voided if maintenance is not performed by certified technicians?  

That's not allowed here, if you follow the schedule and use OE spec parts they can't void the warranty. That's and EU rule though, might not continue.

girbim

I have a Volkswagen Passat TDI  with about 11 belly pan screws.   I use a Pela  PL-14K oil extractor.   The size is a bit overkill, but I have no regrets.  I was trying to stay larger, because I read complaints about oil ruining the pump seals on some models.  

I think the car has to be designed for an oil extractor so that the tube can get to the lowest point.  One has to be sure that the tube is fully inserted and that one does not try to force too large of a tube in there.  Some have had the tube get stuck and ended up leaving a piece of the tube in there.  For mine, I have to insert it until it stops and then push a little more.  One is never 100% sure if you are inserting it too much so that the tube is coiling up.

My oil filter comes out through the top.  The first time was difficult, because one has to tilt it just right.  Once the filter is out, I can extract a little more oil out of the filter housing using the extractor.  I like the setup better than the oil filter on my truck.  It is right above a cross support and one has no choice but to let part of the oil drain all over the frame.

CtTOPGUN

I have been a car/racing enthusiast all my life. Currently race and maintain a street/strip drag truck. Extracting is absolutely fine IF it can reach the sump area. Not all vehicles have a clear path to the oil pan sump.

 Modern vehicles maintain temps way better than older models did. Also oil is vastly superior to what was available years ago over the counter. Sludge is extremely rare these days. On my older high mileage truck that uses a bit of oil I have gone to only changing the filter at regular intervals and adding fresh oil as needed. 250K miles(100K doing this) and when I pulled the timing cover off recently to do a water pump job not only was it clean as could be, but the timing chain was still in good shape!

   Jim

Skiddymarker

Having owned a Kia Amanti (2005thru2016) all oil changes were done by either Kia or a certified facility (CTC, Minute Lube etc...) for the first five years (warranty period). Kia Canada is pretty strict about honouring oil related warranty failures. Friend had an oil related failure rejected as he did his own maintenance on a 2008 Rondo. He did know what he was doing and used appropriate filters and oil. Not sure about Kia USA. 
As noted above by @Canugghead - once the warranty was up, I installed the Fumoto. 
EDIT - BTW used an extractor on the boat years ago, worked but could never get as much out as I wanted. 

Eoin

Canugghead said:

Saw some youtube videos, what a PITA.
Just thinking out loud here, how about installing this valve (assuming suv has plenty of ground clearance), then cut a small access hole in the plastic panel, to connect drain hose and turn the lever? The access hole can be covered by a 'door' secured by snap rivets.
https://www.fumotooildrainvalve.com/with-elbow-joint-f316l-for-drain-plug-size-14mm-1-5.html

Are these good, no leaks through the valve when it gets old?

Canugghead

@Eoin
Never used it myself but read good reviews about it, I'm sure @Skiddymarker can chime in.

I've used the Fram Sure Drain for years, never leaked but drain rate is very slow! Fumoto seems better built and easier to operate.

Eoin

Canugghead said:

@Eoin
Never used it myself but read good reviews about it, I'm sure @Skiddymarker can chime in.

I've used the Fram Sure Drain for years, never leaked but drain rate is very slow! Fumoto seems better built and easier to operate.

I do my camper myself and change the oil frequently as it's air cooled. The plug is easy to get to, but it would save mess if I could pipe straight into the drain container.

Wolfpack

Canugghead said:

Wolfpack said:

Might void warranty. 

if you
1) use oil extractor?
2) install drain valve?
3) cut an access hole in the plastic splash guard?

Something to keep in mind though. FWIW, some car makers even claim warranty is voided if maintenance is not performed by certified technicians?  

I was thinking of the drain value and hole in the shield. But total assumption on my part. Think you would be fine using extraction.  


But some one of the car manufacturers really don't think maintenance through or they don't care just trying to cram stuff into small enough space. To change the headlight bulb on our suburban you have to remove the underpinning in the front wheel well and go up through the back side to reach. What should be a 5 minute thing takes a good 30 minutes to an hour. Still not as bad as some of the things that have to be done to change plugs. 

Skiddymarker

@Eoin - the Fumoto was purchased off Amazon, had it on the car for almost 5 years. worked flawlessly. The drain plug on the Amanti was rear facing so clearance was not an issue. Saves on buying crush washers and made changing hot oil a non-hand scalding-wrenchless experience. 

Eoin

Skiddymarker said:

@Eoin - the Fumoto was purchased off Amazon, had it on the car for almost 5 years. worked flawlessly. The drain plug on the Amanti was rear facing so clearance was not an issue. Saves on buying crush washers and made changing hot oil a non-hand scalding-wrenchless experience. 

Thanks. My van has a bottom mounted sump plug, but plenty of ground clearance. I found the UK distributor and sent an enquiry.

I have a box of assorted copper washers that does the sump plug job, the main issue is the hot oil and spillage!

Thatgrimguy

Canugghead said:

Wolfpack said:

Might void warranty. 

if you
1) use oil extractor?
2) install drain valve?
3) cut an access hole in the plastic splash guard?

Something to keep in mind though. FWIW, some car makers even claim warranty is voided if maintenance is not performed by certified technicians?  

In the U.S. It is law that a warranty cannot be voided by proper diy maintenance. (forget to screw on the drain cap isn't proper) Just doing the service yourself is no grounds to deny warranty.

Another fun fact, warranty pays the same rate as customers in most cases.  As a car dealer I WANT to warranty everything I freaking can for you. It's free money! But we don't make the decision and pay for 100% of any denials we did the service on without approval. 

Krughzn

Canugghead said:

Saw some youtube videos, what a PITA.
Just thinking out loud here, how about installing this valve (assuming suv has plenty of ground clearance), then cut a small access hole in the plastic panel, to connect drain hose and turn the lever? The access hole can be covered by a 'door' secured by snap rivets.
https://www.fumotooildrainvalve.com/with-elbow-joint-f316l-for-drain-plug-size-14mm-1-5.html

I have this for my Jeep. I have an aftermarket skid plate and it is a PITA draining the oil. It works great and way easier to drain the oil.