Got my expanded metal grill grate made! (Partially)

Downr@nge

Downr@nge

I was wondering if I need to coat it with anything first.  It only cost me $16 for a 2' by 4' sheet of 3/4" #9 sheet.  The local steel guy cut it for me for $20.  Now I just have to figure out how to best reinforce it so it doesn't sag under weight and heat.  Any suggestions?  I was thinking of a triangle pattern, kind of like the Mercedes Benz logo.  

TexanOfTheNorth

Are you going to put something around the perimeter? I can see a lot of cut fingers otherwise.

RRP

sorry to break the news to you but even with struts to support it it will soon have dips and sag like middle aged hooters.

NPHuskerFL

What material is the expanded metal?  I was looking at doing something similar for both the LBGE and MM in a heavy gauge 304SS or 316SS and then a SS bevel wrap around the outer edge. The heavier gauge would allow for less flex under a heat load and would improve longevity. 
If yours is mild steel I'd run 3 pieces of flat stock for rigidity and wrap the outer edge half round smooth stock. Just an idea /my 2¢. 

NPHuskerFL

@RRP agree mild steel expanded will flex, sag and corrode. Aluminum won't corrode but, will definitely sag. Heavy gauge SS is the best suited material (which is why it's used commercially and industrially) but, the downside is the initial material cost. 

caliking

TexanOfTheNorth said:

Are you going to put something around the perimeter? I can see a lot of cut fingers otherwise.

+1. Can I ask what's the benefit of an expando grate?

Eggcelsior

Is this a fire grate replacement? Jonathan used to make them for the S, M, and L Eggs. I have one for my large and if it starts to sag, I just flip it over.

milesvdustin

Run a 1/4" round rod around the outside, then a few across the middle 

GregW

Man that perimeter edge is wicked sharp. You can get get just looking at a picture of it.

Downr@nge

It's just preference.  I can say that i do like the spacing of holes versus the spacing on the grate that comes with the egg.

Downr@nge

And yes, its VERY sharp.  I'm definitely going to put something around the edges and something to keep it from sagging.  

EggHead_Bubba

What is this for? A replacement grate?

Downr@nge

@EggHead_Bubba, its a replacement cooking grate.

MediumRarely

Use SS shape for the support/perimeter (channel, angle etc.).  Solid bar/rod/etc. will sag/deflect a lot more.

stlcharcoal

I used to make the fire grates out of the #9 expanded stainless steel for the S, M, and L.  The larges were 10" in diameter and they would slightly sag after a while--just flip then over.

You really need to weld a perimeter around that thing or you're going to cut yourself.  I have the scars to prove it when I fabricated the first few dozen myself.  After that, I had them cut on a plasma table.  But since it was down in belly of the Egg, there's no reason to ever remove it again.

This is going to sag and you might run into issues when using it with a platesetter legs up.  You might fabricate a lifter similar to "the claw" that people use to lift a hot plate setter out.

erniemcclain

Why not flip your stock factory grid and weld it to the bottom of that?

EggHead_Bubba

Just trying to understand... what is the benefit of this grate compared to OEM grates?

stlcharcoal

erniemcclain said:

Why not flip your stock factory grid and weld it to the bottom of that?

My only hesitation on that would be cleaning as you're making a lot of extra places for grease to cling onto.  The expanded stainless is already harder to clean than the parallel rods.

stlcharcoal

erniemcclain said:

Why not flip your stock factory grid and weld it to the bottom of that?

My only hesitation on that would be cleaning as you're making a lot of extra places for grease to cling onto.  The expanded stainless is already harder to clean than the parallel rods.

RRP

Downr@nge said:

I was wondering if I need to coat it with anything first.  It only cost me $16 for a 2' by 4' sheet of 3/4" #9 sheet.  The local steel guy cut it for me for $20.  Now I just have to figure out how to best reinforce it so it doesn't sag under weight and heat.  Any suggestions?  I was thinking of a triangle pattern, kind of like the Mercedes Benz logo.  

No offense meant since you are already this far into your grate, but first $16 and then plus $20, plus whatever cost of the circular protection and then the support welded on and gosh...you are already way over the cost of a stainless grate that won't cut you, won't rust, won't cup and will clean up far easier. I too love to make my own stuff when I can, but I also know when I'm over my head price wise vs. results.

ringkingpin

I can roll you a ring if you want!  www.anglerings.com

blasting

I think expanded metal would make a good cooking grate.  Problem in my mind is the circular shape leaves a lot of jagged edges as many have commented on.  

To be ideal, one would have to ring roll some small angle for the perimeter, and also cut it out of heavy gauge stainless, which would cause it to be priced higher than a stock grate.

Sea2Ski

ringkingpin said:

I can roll you a ring if you want!  www.anglerings.com

What do people use your rings for?  I am just curious.

ringkingpin

Sea2Ski said:

ringkingpin said:

I can roll you a ring if you want!  www.anglerings.com

What do people use your rings for?  I am just curious.

They're used often as flanges for round, industrial and heavy commercial duct work.  Tons of other applications, AG, architectural, structural supports for tanks, etc. 

blasting

ringkingpin said:

I can roll you a ring if you want!  www.anglerings.com

lol.  I just recommended that without seeing your post.

Is that your company?  In looking at your website it looks like you all have made a nice place for yourselves in a niche market.

YukonRon

NPHuskerFL said:

@RRP agree mild steel expanded will flex, sag and corrode. Aluminum won't corrode but, will definitely sag. Heavy gauge SS is the best suited material (which is why it's used commercially and industrially) but, the downside is the initial material cost. 

FWIW - Aluminum will corrode, actually oxidizes the moment it is subjected to air. The fine white dust is Aluminum Oxide, and enough of that at critical mass will explode at certain temp. The by product of corroded aluminum is hydrogen gas, another thing not to have around high temps. Ford motors is going through a tough spell right now with their aluminum trucks. Corrosion is rampant, especially where they chose not to use seam sealer in the creased folds and bends, like under the hood. The aluminum they use is an alloy that contains copper, they have since lowered the amount if copper in the alloy and started using seam sealer.
Not trying to be a smart ask, just trying to help. Most aluminum that we see in pots and pans are alloys that limit or delays corrosion, but once you start seeing pitted surfaces, it is over.
hope this may help.

GaBGE

Not trying to be a smart a$$, but why reinvent the wheel? 

RRP

GaBGE said:

Not trying to be a smart a$$, but why reinvent the wheel? 

Thank you... THAT was exactly what I was trying to say, but sometimes words are thicker than mud to some people.

EggHead_Bubba

Yeah, I kinda hinted at it above. I just didn't want to rain on someone's DIY parade. I'm all about DIY and sometimes I look back at some of the things O did and just shake my head!

Skiddymarker

What is the finished diameter you are considering? Always fun to make your own stuff. In my case it is usually the excuse to buy some tool I don't have and need to finish the project. Good luck!