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What is best replacement gasket?

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Answers

  • Canugghead
    Canugghead Posts: 13,983
    @rrp in his previous life?

    canuckland
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  • Begger
    Begger Posts: 663
    Ozzie?    It is possible to make an all metal seal.   put to say.....1"x1" squares of microflat steel facing
    one another.     You'll never pull them apart but have to slide...
    As for ceramic?    Unless glazed / finished, you still can get a decent seal.   I'd guess the lid / kettle will have to very well aligned.   and parallel where / when closed......
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  • RRP
    RRP Posts: 26,512
    RRP said:
    Botch said:
    Wish I had pics of my hauling 8 railroad ties in my '86 Saab 900T (after I loaded six the suspension bottomed out, so I had to make two trips).  
    I hear you about your particular story and here is yet another tale of my using that Benz for some unusual purpose...Back a few years ago I was building a vacuum driven sawdust collection network in my work shop tying together my stationary machines.  I designed it to use 4" PVC. So I went to my home improvement center and purchased 10 pieces of 10' long 4" PVC. In order to get them home I stood them up one by one thru my open sun roof!   I swear my car looked like some secret roving military weapon that could launch 10 rockets at some evil country!

    Unfortunately my picture of proof died when I told Photobucket to kiss my...well, you get the idea...
    GEEZZZZZ, Ron!!! Those were NOT 4" PVC!!!! but rather 6" PVC!!! and besides for you wood butchers like me I ran a bare copper wire through that entire network and grounded it due to the static electricity caused by the movement  of sawdust thru that plastic pipe! 
    Re-gasketing the USA one yard at a time 
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  • GrateEggspectations
    GrateEggspectations Posts: 12,195
    Begger said:
    Ozzie?    It is possible to make an all metal seal.   put to say.....1"x1" squares of microflat steel facing
    one another.     You'll never pull them apart but have to slide...
    As for ceramic?    Unless glazed / finished, you still can get a decent seal.   I'd guess the lid / kettle will have to very well aligned.   and parallel where / when closed......
    @o@Ozzie_Isaac
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  • Canugghead
    Canugghead Posts: 13,983
    GrateEggspectations said:
    Begger said:
    Ozzie?    It is possible to make an all metal seal.   put to say.....1"x1" squares of microflat steel facing
    one another.     You'll never pull them apart but have to slide...
    As for ceramic?    Unless glazed / finished, you still can get a decent seal.   I'd guess the lid / kettle will have to very well aligned.   and parallel where / when closed......
    @o@Ozzie_Isaac
    Posting in the wee hours again? Be careful, you may slip and leak your super secretive personal info ;)

    canuckland
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  • Begger
    Begger Posts: 663
    Just started on my re-seal today.    I was scared for naught.
    I expected torture to clean the gasket glueing surface.   But THAT has been the easy part, so far.
    The recommended type of drill tool works fine and does not mar the ceramic at all.   So tomorrow I glue, and have to detail out the dome........Gasket came right off but left brushable.......

    I've got a bunch of 1/2"x6" popsicle sticks for glue spreaders.    Plenty of Nytrile gloves.  And a fresh tube of Ultra Copper for the 'goo' part.    

    The only lack right now?    I need to size / buy a pair of band adjust carriage bolts.   Both my take offs are a little rough but the worst is un usable.....

    I'll get a decent photo tomorrow of the cleaned-for-glueing ceramic.    The tool I bought is out of round and has a slight vibration.......which has gotten better due to wear.   
    I've got some help coming tomorrow, as a just-in-case move.     The dome is heavy and I want to set in on the new seal for overnight before remounting the bands.      


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  • bigguy136
    bigguy136 Posts: 1,377
    Myself, like so many others got my seals from RRP. I have 3 eggs. On day one, I install Ron's gasket but I install on the upper lid rather than lower. Then when I drip stuff, it lands on the lower and easy to wipe, keeping my gaskets clean.

    Big Lake, Minnesota

    2X Large BGE, 1 Mini Max, Stokers, Adjustable Rig

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  • RRP
    RRP Posts: 26,512
    bigguy136 said:
    Myself, like so many others got my seals from RRP. I have 3 eggs. On day one, I install Ron's gasket but I install on the upper lid rather than lower. Then when I drip stuff, it lands on the lower and easy to wipe, keeping my gaskets clean.

    There are several reasons that I suggest that the Rutland gasket only be applied to the base and NEVER to the dome.


    First is a matter of ease since gravity will make it easy to position the gasket into the adhesive, whereas without removing the dome from the band so as to turn it upside down then it would be difficult to apply your gasket.


    Secondly, if you do remove the dome then many people have trouble repositioning it back into the band and then messing with the tightening and adjustments necessary.


    Thirdly, if the gasket were to start to fail then being on the bottom there is far better chance that you will notice the deterioration every time you raised your dome – whereas if it were applied to the underside of the dome, you would not be so apt to notice the problem until it had gotten much worst and most likely well beyond being salvageable.


    And one last reason the gasket goes on the bottom edge is that it protects the egg from tools and other things that invariably hit the edge with a resounding clunk!


    But, in the end - it’s YOUR gasket and YOUR egg so apply it any way you want to!

    Re-gasketing the USA one yard at a time 
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  • Begger
    Begger Posts: 663
    Just did the work over the last few days.
    Stripping OLD was easy with the tools suggested by RRP.   I'd add a 'Dust Mask' suggestion and urge people to do THAT step outside in a breeze.      
    I replaced both band bolts.    Good general idea.   Especially in 'worst case' usage.   
    Worst part was realign.    We will see about that.   It appears my fore / aft adjustment is all one way just enough...I hope.     I have ONE narrow spot in my install where somehow it didn't get spread properly.   But it is over the right spot and thick....so I won't worry.     

    It would be nice to some up with patching instructions.     I still have about 6" or so after final trim....
    I took out the guts of grill and vac'd it out.   Later I may post my DIY dust collection system which is highly efficient and means NO MORE 20$ filter changes.    Those cyclone traps are terriffic.....
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  • Begger
    Begger Posts: 663
    Ran a small / short clean burn today.    Dome temp only made it to maybe 300+ so it never got hot enough to 'go nuclear'.     In past major burns, I've seen a transparent blue/purple/reddish flame come out the top looking like a jet engine exhaust.   Now That's hot!   you know you've overdone it when you when you can't touch the wooden handle......
    Grill has sat for a while so I think I just drove out any moisture and exercised the system....
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  • YukonRon
    YukonRon Posts: 17,427
    Very ashamed to admit this, I still have not used the gaskets RRP sent me 10-12 years ago. Still sealed in the bags, somewhere buried in my toolbox drawer, I hope. 
    "Knowledge is Good" - Emil Faber

    XL and MM
    Louisville, Kentucky
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  • Bocktagon
    Bocktagon Posts: 1
    RRP said:
    bigguy136 said:
    Myself, like so many others got my seals from RRP. I have 3 eggs. On day one, I install Ron's gasket but I install on the upper lid rather than lower. Then when I drip stuff, it lands on the lower and easy to wipe, keeping my gaskets clean.

    There are several reasons that I suggest that the Rutland gasket only be applied to the base and NEVER to the dome.


    First is a matter of ease since gravity will make it easy to position the gasket into the adhesive, whereas without removing the dome from the band so as to turn it upside down then it would be difficult to apply your gasket.


    Secondly, if you do remove the dome then many people have trouble repositioning it back into the band and then messing with the tightening and adjustments necessary.


    Thirdly, if the gasket were to start to fail then being on the bottom there is far better chance that you will notice the deterioration every time you raised your dome – whereas if it were applied to the underside of the dome, you would not be so apt to notice the problem until it had gotten much worst and most likely well beyond being salvageable.


    And one last reason the gasket goes on the bottom edge is that it protects the egg from tools and other things that invariably hit the edge with a resounding clunk!


    But, in the end - it’s YOUR gasket and YOUR egg so apply it any way you want to!

    PM Sent
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  • lousubcap
    lousubcap Posts: 37,760
    @Bocktagon - welcome aboard and enjoy the journey.  Above all, have fun!
    Louisville; Rolling smoke in the neighbourhood.  Life is too short for light/lite beer!  Seems I'm livin in a transitional period. CHEETO (aka Agent Orange) makes Nixon look like a saint.  
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  • xfire_ATX
    xfire_ATX Posts: 1,209
    Ozzie_Isaac said:
    I raw dog it.  No gaskets for me.
    I went 4 years w no gasket on my Large.
    XLBGE, LBGE, Charbroil Gas Grill, Weber Q200, Old Weber Kettle, Rectec RT-B380, Yeti 65, Yeti Hopper 20, RTIC 20, RTIC 20 Soft Side - Too many drinkware vessels to mention.

    Not quite in Austin, TX City Limits
    Just Vote- What if you could choose "none of the above" on an election ballot? Millions of Americans do just that, in effect, by not voting.  The result in 2016: "Nobody" won more counties, more states, and more electoral votes than either candidate for president. 
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