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OT- Buyer beware, don't buy these products - OT
Comments
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I researched new refrigerators recently. Looking for a French door with ice in the door, counter depth to replace my aging Maytag. Literally looks like there is not a good, reliable choice to be found. My Maytag was top of the line 14 years ago and I recall having it repaired 3 times during first year. It appears that I’ll run into the same problem no matter what I choose today!XL BGE, Large BGE, Small BGE, Weber Summit NGMemphis
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The gold is too soft for a cutting edge and wears away rather quickly. Doesn't cut any better either, almost seems duller.I would rather light a candle than curse your darkness.
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@Ozzie_Isaac - For the “discriminating player.” Love it.
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Maybe you should buy higher quality blow. Just a thought.Ozzie_Isaac said:
The gold is too soft for a cutting edge and wears away rather quickly. Doesn't cut any better either, almost seems duller. -
I’m not sure the price difference between 16/3 and 12/2 in the quantity of 10’ but your sander might be more expensive.RRP said:I close the 16/3 for a wall mounted box in my work shop to be used for battery charging and powering a hand held sander. No heavy duty usage.South of Columbus, Ohio. -
Slander??? Being charged for a higher priced product (16/2 NOT 12/2, but 16/3) but actually being given cheaper material instead??? And then being told NO REFUNDS when I pointed that out and that became a issue to even have to be argued??? Come on man...alaskanassasin said:
I’m not sure the price difference between 16/3 and 12/2 in the quantity of 10’ but your sander might be more expensive.RRP said:I close the 16/3 for a wall mounted box in my work shop to be used for battery charging and powering a hand held sander. No heavy duty usage.Re-gasketing the USA one yard at a time -
Actually it would be libel if proved in a court since it was published in written form.RRP said:
Slander??? Being charged for a higher priced product (16/2 NOT 12/2, but 16/3) but actually being given cheaper material instead??? And then being told NO REFUNDS when I pointed that out and that became a issue to even have to be argued??? Come on man...alaskanassasin said:
I’m not sure the price difference between 16/3 and 12/2 in the quantity of 10’ but your sander might be more expensive.RRP said:I close the 16/3 for a wall mounted box in my work shop to be used for battery charging and powering a hand held sander. No heavy duty usage. -
Relax drama queen! SANDER, not slander 🤣😂RRP said:
Slander??? Being charged for a higher priced product (16/2 NOT 12/2, but 16/3) but actually being given cheaper material instead??? And then being told NO REFUNDS when I pointed that out and that became a issue to even have to be argued??? Come on man...alaskanassasin said:
I’m not sure the price difference between 16/3 and 12/2 in the quantity of 10’ but your sander might be more expensive.RRP said:I close the 16/3 for a wall mounted box in my work shop to be used for battery charging and powering a hand held sander. No heavy duty usage.____________________Entrepreneurs are simply those who understand that there is little difference between obstacle and opportunity and are able to turn both to their advantage. •Niccolo Machiavelli -
I agree. I've been battling a Samsung fridge that likes to freeze. After researching the problem I learned about their class action suit. The wife insisted on the Samsung washer and dryer. Couldn't talk her out of it.The Cen-Tex Smoker said:Samsung appliances. Just google it. Horrific. We bought a $3600 fridge and and an $800 dishwasher when we redid our kitchen. Neither made it a year and Samsung hosed us on both. We spent $1200 repairing the fridge and it all broke again plus other stuff. We finally just gave up and threw it out. Same with the dishwasher. It is the worst appliance I have ever even heard of. -
Just remember, as of Jan 20, 2021, POTUS is no longer responsible for anything.
Memphis, TN -
RRP said:I close the 16/3 for a wall mounted box in my work shop to be used for battery charging and powering a hand held sander. No heavy duty usage.
@RRP, If I were looking for banking advice, I would certainly come to you. With that said, since I am an Electrical Engineer, albeit one who partied studied at Iowa, I have to say that if it is a standard outlet, you should use heavier wire. Just because you only plan to plug a sander and a battery charger into it, doesn't mean the next person, who didn't wire the outlet, won't see it as a standard outlet and plug their deep freeze, dehumidifier, Shop vac, or some other higher amp product into it. It needs to carry 15 amps safely, and depending on what the breaker size is, it should be 12gage wire. The price difference at Ace would probably have been $1 or 2.
I know you probably aren't going to sell your house, but if you ever do, how will the next person know that outlet is "only for battery charging and powering a hand held sander?"
Just my 2¢.Clinton, Iowa -
RRP said:
Slander??? Being charged for a higher priced product (16/2 NOT 12/2, but 16/3) but actually being given cheaper material instead??? And then being told NO REFUNDS when I pointed that out and that became a issue to even have to be argued??? Come on man...alaskanassasin said:
I’m not sure the price difference between 16/3 and 12/2 in the quantity of 10’ but your sander might be more expensive.RRP said:I close the 16/3 for a wall mounted box in my work shop to be used for battery charging and powering a hand held sander. No heavy duty usage.I believe if a false statement written then it would be technically libel, slander is saved for the verbal statement, much harder to prove.At any rate the point I was trying to make is 16 gauge wire is awfully small to run power tools.South of Columbus, Ohio. -
As someone who has been sued for libel and slander twice, albeit unsuccessfully……you are correctalaskanassasin said:RRP said:
Slander??? Being charged for a higher priced product (16/2 NOT 12/2, but 16/3) but actually being given cheaper material instead??? And then being told NO REFUNDS when I pointed that out and that became a issue to even have to be argued??? Come on man...alaskanassasin said:
I’m not sure the price difference between 16/3 and 12/2 in the quantity of 10’ but your sander might be more expensive.RRP said:I close the 16/3 for a wall mounted box in my work shop to be used for battery charging and powering a hand held sander. No heavy duty usage.I believe if a false statement written then it would be technically libel, slander is saved for the verbal statement, much harder to prove.At any rate the point I was trying to make is 16 gauge wire is awfully small to run power tools. -
Ok guys...the fought for 16/3 wire is out and hard wired 12/3 romax on a 15 amp circuit it will be!Langner91 said:RRP said:I close the 16/3 for a wall mounted box in my work shop to be used for battery charging and powering a hand held sander. No heavy duty usage.
@RRP, If I were looking for banking advice, I would certainly come to you. With that said, since I am an Electrical Engineer, albeit one who partied studied at Iowa, I have to say that if it is a standard outlet, you should use heavier wire. Just because you only plan to plug a sander and a battery charger into it, doesn't mean the next person, who didn't wire the outlet, won't see it as a standard outlet and plug their deep freeze, dehumidifier, Shop vac, or some other higher amp product into it. It needs to carry 15 amps safely, and depending on what the breaker size is, it should be 12gage wire. The price difference at Ace would probably have been $1 or 2.
I know you probably aren't going to sell your house, but if you ever do, how will the next person know that outlet is "only for battery charging and powering a hand held sander?"
Just my 2¢.Re-gasketing the USA one yard at a time -
I was thinking speaker wire would be fine.
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Langner91 said:RRP said:I close the 16/3 for a wall mounted box in my work shop to be used for battery charging and powering a hand held sander. No heavy duty usage.
@RRP, If I were looking for banking advice, I would certainly come to you. With that said, since I am an Electrical Engineer, albeit one who partied studied at Iowa, I have to say that if it is a standard outlet, you should use heavier wire. Just because you only plan to plug a sander and a battery charger into it, doesn't mean the next person, who didn't wire the outlet, won't see it as a standard outlet and plug their deep freeze, dehumidifier, Shop vac, or some other higher amp product into it. It needs to carry 15 amps safely, and depending on what the breaker size is, it should be 12gage wire. The price difference at Ace would probably have been $1 or 2.
I know you probably aren't going to sell your house, but if you ever do, how will the next person know that outlet is "only for battery charging and powering a hand held sander?"
Just my 2¢.
I was thinking the same thing @Langner91, the future home inspector be like, WTF?
South of Columbus, Ohio. -
We have a fancy Samsung French door, super high tech refrigerator and, other than the ice maker freezing up now and then, no problems. I was nervous after hearing Cen-tex's experience.
______________________________________________I love lamp.. -
Can you just return the wire?THANK YOU FOR YOUR ATTENTION TO THIS MATTER
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This ain’t Costco we’re talking aboutLegume said:Can you just return the wire? -
I SAID 12-3 how many times!!??Legume said:Can you just return the wire?South of Columbus, Ohio. -
The 16-3 can probably be used as a gasketalaskanassasin said:
I SAID 12-3 how many times!!??Legume said:Can you just return the wire?____________________Entrepreneurs are simply those who understand that there is little difference between obstacle and opportunity and are able to turn both to their advantage. •Niccolo Machiavelli -
My upper ice maker does that. Good thing the bottom one never does. I'm not a fan the bottom ice maker eats up so much more space, but it's more reliablenolaegghead said:We have a fancy Samsung French door, super high tech refrigerator and, other than the ice maker freezing up now and then, no problems. I was nervous after hearing Cen-tex's experience. -
Ice in the door is the killer. I'll never consider it again unless the whole concept is reengineered. I learned more about ice in the door fridges that I care to admit trying to diagnose my Samsung. That was the main issue it it, the ice leaked and dripped out onto the slide out deli drawer, which had a digital control panel on it. Well that control panel is not waterproof so i shorted out after 3 months. The "fixed" the ice maker after 6 months for $800, replaced the deli drawer, then it all happened again. No warranty coverage, they just disappeared told me to beat it.4TheGrillOfIt said:I researched new refrigerators recently. Looking for a French door with ice in the door, counter depth to replace my aging Maytag. Literally looks like there is not a good, reliable choice to be found. My Maytag was top of the line 14 years ago and I recall having it repaired 3 times during first year. It appears that I’ll run into the same problem no matter what I choose today!
To top it all off, all the condiment/dairy shelves were in the door. Every single one of them fell apart. In 6 months. I had to tape them back together to get them not to separate. Freezer went out once during this time as well. I don't recall a single system that lasted more than 6 months before it started to fail on that fridge. and 100% of the things we fixed failed again within months (except the freezer).
Long story short, having an ice maker in you refrigerator as opposed to your freezer is a very very bad idea.Keepin' It Weird in The ATX FBTX -
If my fridge freezes up again. I saw a YouTube video on what to do to help that Samsung didn't bother with. Sad thing is they can fix these problems, but don't because people buy anyway. The are priced low and look nice.The Cen-Tex Smoker said:
Ice in the door is the killer. I'll never consider it again unless the whole concept is reengineered. I learned more about ice in the door fridges that I care to admit trying to diagnose my Samsung. That was the main issue it it, the ice leaked and dripped out onto the slide out deli drawer, which had a digital control panel on it. Well that control panel is not waterproof so i shorted out after 3 months. The "fixed" the ice maker after 6 months for $800, replaced the deli drawer, then it all happened again. No warranty coverage, they just disappeared told me to beat it.4TheGrillOfIt said:I researched new refrigerators recently. Looking for a French door with ice in the door, counter depth to replace my aging Maytag. Literally looks like there is not a good, reliable choice to be found. My Maytag was top of the line 14 years ago and I recall having it repaired 3 times during first year. It appears that I’ll run into the same problem no matter what I choose today!
To top it all off, all the condiment/dairy shelves were in the door. Every single one of them fell apart. In 6 months. I had to tape them back together to get them not to separate. Freezer went out once during this time as well. I don't recall a single system that lasted more than 6 months before it started to fail on that fridge. and 100% of the things we fixed failed again within months (except the freezer).
Long story short, having an ice maker in you refrigerator as opposed to your freezer is a very very bad idea. -
I did all those things (I assume you mean the caulking video). Did not workRyanStl said:
If my fridge freezes up again. I saw a YouTube video on what to do to help that Samsung didn't bother with. Sad thing is they can fix these problems, but don't because people buy anyway. The are priced low and look nice.The Cen-Tex Smoker said:
Ice in the door is the killer. I'll never consider it again unless the whole concept is reengineered. I learned more about ice in the door fridges that I care to admit trying to diagnose my Samsung. That was the main issue it it, the ice leaked and dripped out onto the slide out deli drawer, which had a digital control panel on it. Well that control panel is not waterproof so i shorted out after 3 months. The "fixed" the ice maker after 6 months for $800, replaced the deli drawer, then it all happened again. No warranty coverage, they just disappeared told me to beat it.4TheGrillOfIt said:I researched new refrigerators recently. Looking for a French door with ice in the door, counter depth to replace my aging Maytag. Literally looks like there is not a good, reliable choice to be found. My Maytag was top of the line 14 years ago and I recall having it repaired 3 times during first year. It appears that I’ll run into the same problem no matter what I choose today!
To top it all off, all the condiment/dairy shelves were in the door. Every single one of them fell apart. In 6 months. I had to tape them back together to get them not to separate. Freezer went out once during this time as well. I don't recall a single system that lasted more than 6 months before it started to fail on that fridge. and 100% of the things we fixed failed again within months (except the freezer).
Long story short, having an ice maker in you refrigerator as opposed to your freezer is a very very bad idea.Keepin' It Weird in The ATX FBTX -
Bosch refrigerator. Filtered water inside the fridge, ice maker in the freezer. Zero issues.THANK YOU FOR YOUR ATTENTION TO THIS MATTER
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Whirlpool here. 27 years old. Zero issues/repairs.
This thread has me hoping it stays that way."Hallelujah, Noel, be it Heaven or Hell,
The Christmas we get, we deserve"
-RIP Greg LakeOgden, UT, USA
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Legume said:Bosch refrigerator. Filtered water inside the fridge, ice maker in the freezer. Zero issues.
That is where we are at, except its GE. I heard ice in the door was trouble, and we honestly don't use that much ice. Big freezer in the garage.
South of Columbus, Ohio. -
Botch said:Whirlpool here. 27 years old. Zero issues/repairs.
This thread has me hoping it stays that way.
The only issue with that is it probably costs you $50 a month to run.
South of Columbus, Ohio. -
Our Maytag Neptune or Atlantis washer lasted 25 years or so with only a few repairs I did myself.
Drier? still kicking.
And yes, if you look at Kenmore, for example, coded into the model number is a code for manufacturer.
I expect rebranding and fewer actual manufacturers than ever.
https://www.applianceaid.com/sears-manufacturing-codes.php
As for extension cords? I'm a stereo guy and this is a Third Rail topic....since the common belief is cords sound different. Dont' ask me!
But I've built 14ga from Belden 19364 which is 14-3 AND has a shield. There is a 12ga version, also, 83803 is big and heavy.
16 is fine for most domestic use. 13 amps is over 1500 watts......In a short cord, you should even be able to run a corded hair dryer? But if you are running long distances.....25 feet or more....OR a high current device? Go to 12ga for sure. My chop saw will dim the lights when kicked on. That tells me an instant draw of maybe 12 to 15 amps.....
For those of you with big curiosity? Get a Kill-A-Watt plug in meter. They go maybe 25$ these days and a very useful if you have 'the electric bug'.....
I think of more importance are 2 other factors:
first? What is that service to your house. Mine is small at 100 amps.
Second? Do you have whole house surge protection?
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