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Table nest necessary
Comments
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The one dealer I went to didn't know anything about them, then said it was $200. I went to the other dealer in town and got one for $50. Its so needed.
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That was my thinking as well, those without the cast iron would certainly heat the bottom well beyond the stock configuration.HeavyG said:
I've posted this many times before but according to BGE the use of a concrete paver block, while not the preferred method, is acceptable practice and is shown on their official table plans:bigalsworth said:
depending on how you do a word a search a lone paver solution can come with glowing reviews. My dealer told me that is all I needed, and as stated above some get away with it. I knew the risk and I took it (stupid, but I did it anyway). I did monitor the wood underneath, but only looking from the bottom, and from the bottom it still looks perfectly fine.Carolina Q said:
Surprised was the wrong word, I guess. More like, it always amazes me that people let this happen. Although, I'm sure some ARE surprised.bigalsworth said:Lol i'm not surprised, I knew it was happening. Doesn't mean I'm smart though.
There are likely many who are surprised. I think of my own dealer, how many eggs has he sold telling customers it is all okay, and I doubt many find their way to the internet to even bother to look it up.
I'm curious if using something other than the stock charcoal grate (e.g. Kick Ash Basket, High Que Grate) makes any difference in how it impacts the heat pattern thru the bottom. -
Got mine for less than $30. Shopping around is a good idea.
Southeast Florida - LBGE
In cooking, often we implement steps for which we have no explanations other than ‘that’s what everybody else does’ or ‘that’s what I have been told.’ Dare to think for yourself. -
Got mine as well for less than $30. My dealer has them in stock...Charlotte, NC - Large BGE 2014, Maverick ET 733, Thermopen, Nest, Platesetter, Woo2 and Extender w/Grid, Kick Ash Basket, Pizza Stone, SS Smokeware Cap, Blackstone 36"
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$200, $50, or even just $30 - all is more than the 3 green feet that came stock with every BGE.Re-gasketing the USA one yard at a time
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True, but the air gap is 2" vs 3/4". Makes a diff. Newer eggs don't come with the feet is there is a new generation of eggers who don't know about them.Southeast Florida - LBGE
In cooking, often we implement steps for which we have no explanations other than ‘that’s what everybody else does’ or ‘that’s what I have been told.’ Dare to think for yourself. -
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BGE themselves say to use something in conjunction with the table next and give a paver as an examplepgprescott said:
It will suffice. The paver is the item that is not needed either by itself or with the table nest.PatBateman said:
I'm confused as to why the table-nest alone does not suffice?Rte1985 said:
A lot of people have done double paver stone with zero issues (a lot have done large single paver with no issues) and yes a large enough air barrier would suffice( now you are correct that the nest itself is not sufficient air gap) it's all a matter of heat transfer... So this CAN be an OR situation if done correctly.JohnnyTarheel said:
This is not a 'OR' situation... you need both on wood table....Rte1985 said:Stone, or air gap (nest) is a must! That a lot of concentrated heat directly on a combustible table!Large BGEBBQ Guru DigiQ IIMartensville, Saskatchewan Canada -
Air gap is the key, not the thickness of a paver or stone. I do have a table nest and the almost 2" gap prevents the stone under the egg from even getting warm. If you do use a paver or patio stone, even some 1" square aluminum tubing works like a hot damn.Delta B.C. - Whiskey and steak, because no good story ever started with someone having a salad!
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I used to think that one day I'd probably build a table for my large. But I just can't get excited about them. Sure, they look nicer than a nest, but the nest will never burn or char and it's quite serviceable. Put a table next to it and you have plenty of work surface. Easier to build too, if you want to build your own. No holes to cut or reinforce, no heavy frame needed to support a heavy egg, no casters to install... and no pavers!
I hate it when I go to the kitchen for food and all I find are ingredients!
MichaelCentral Connecticut -
An air gap being an insulator is a bit of a misnomer, the insulating value of air is worthless because it is not confined with no movement. The air acts like a coolant in this case, taking heat and carrying it away. It is not insulating, it is cooling. I realize some will say that is just splitting hairs but it is actually what is happening.jtcBoynton said:Remember that the thermal conductivity for a paver is an order of magnitude higher than air. Granite and tile are an additional order of magnitude higher.Large BGEBBQ Guru DigiQ IIMartensville, Saskatchewan Canada -
bigalsworth said:
BGE themselves say to use something in conjunction with the table next and give a paver as an examplepgprescott said:
It will suffice. The paver is the item that is not needed either by itself or with the table nest.PatBateman said:
I'm confused as to why the table-nest alone does not suffice?Rte1985 said:
A lot of people have done double paver stone with zero issues (a lot have done large single paver with no issues) and yes a large enough air barrier would suffice( now you are correct that the nest itself is not sufficient air gap) it's all a matter of heat transfer... So this CAN be an OR situation if done correctly.JohnnyTarheel said:
This is not a 'OR' situation... you need both on wood table....Rte1985 said:Stone, or air gap (nest) is a must! That a lot of concentrated heat directly on a combustible table!HeavyG said:I've posted this many times before but according to BGE the use of a concrete paver block, while not the preferred method, is acceptable practice and is shown on their official table plans: -
THIS is why they make the table nest in lieu f the feet.jtcBoynton said:True, but the air gap is 2" vs 3/4". Makes a diff. Newer eggs don't come with the feet is there is a new generation of eggers who don't know about them. -
Just to keep the thread alive so you're saying if I had a wood table and I had a 10 foot thick concrete stone on top of the table the wood table still risk getting burned I think not! Of course that's extreme but to say the thickness of a material has no effect on thermal transfer is crazy!Skiddymarker said:Air gap is the key, not the thickness of a paver or stone. I do have a table nest and the almost 2" gap prevents the stone under the egg from even getting warm. If you do use a paver or patio stone, even some 1" square aluminum tubing works like a hot damn.
even an insufficient air gap will burn a table. As you increase the thickness of the air gap you decrease your heat transfer. But yes having a stone and air gap is a very safe setup! -
pgprescott said:bigalsworth said:
BGE themselves say to use something in conjunction with the table next and give a paver as an examplepgprescott said:
It will suffice. The paver is the item that is not needed either by itself or with the table nest.PatBateman said:
I'm confused as to why the table-nest alone does not suffice?Rte1985 said:
A lot of people have done double paver stone with zero issues (a lot have done large single paver with no issues) and yes a large enough air barrier would suffice( now you are correct that the nest itself is not sufficient air gap) it's all a matter of heat transfer... So this CAN be an OR situation if done correctly.JohnnyTarheel said:
This is not a 'OR' situation... you need both on wood table....Rte1985 said:Stone, or air gap (nest) is a must! That a lot of concentrated heat directly on a combustible table!HeavyG said:I've posted this many times before but according to BGE the use of a concrete paver block, while not the preferred method, is acceptable practice and is shown on their official table plans:
Large BGEBBQ Guru DigiQ IIMartensville, Saskatchewan Canada -
Thats a wrap folks! In the fire service we do like to be over cautious when it comes to fire protection! So people be safe and don't burn your house down!bigalsworth said:pgprescott said:bigalsworth said:
BGE themselves say to use something in conjunction with the table next and give a paver as an examplepgprescott said:
It will suffice. The paver is the item that is not needed either by itself or with the table nest.PatBateman said:
I'm confused as to why the table-nest alone does not suffice?Rte1985 said:
A lot of people have done double paver stone with zero issues (a lot have done large single paver with no issues) and yes a large enough air barrier would suffice( now you are correct that the nest itself is not sufficient air gap) it's all a matter of heat transfer... So this CAN be an OR situation if done correctly.JohnnyTarheel said:
This is not a 'OR' situation... you need both on wood table....Rte1985 said:Stone, or air gap (nest) is a must! That a lot of concentrated heat directly on a combustible table!HeavyG said:I've posted this many times before but according to BGE the use of a concrete paver block, while not the preferred method, is acceptable practice and is shown on their official table plans: -
BGE really should take the time to update their official table plan documents if they have changed their position on this.bigalsworth said:pgprescott said:bigalsworth said:
BGE themselves say to use something in conjunction with the table next and give a paver as an examplepgprescott said:
It will suffice. The paver is the item that is not needed either by itself or with the table nest.PatBateman said:
I'm confused as to why the table-nest alone does not suffice?Rte1985 said:
A lot of people have done double paver stone with zero issues (a lot have done large single paver with no issues) and yes a large enough air barrier would suffice( now you are correct that the nest itself is not sufficient air gap) it's all a matter of heat transfer... So this CAN be an OR situation if done correctly.JohnnyTarheel said:
This is not a 'OR' situation... you need both on wood table....Rte1985 said:Stone, or air gap (nest) is a must! That a lot of concentrated heat directly on a combustible table!HeavyG said:I've posted this many times before but according to BGE the use of a concrete paver block, while not the preferred method, is acceptable practice and is shown on their official table plans:“Reality is that which, when you stop believing in it, doesn't go away.” ― Philip K. Diçk -
But they still seem to think that a granite tile and a cement paver provide the same thermal protection.Southeast Florida - LBGE
In cooking, often we implement steps for which we have no explanations other than ‘that’s what everybody else does’ or ‘that’s what I have been told.’ Dare to think for yourself. -
I'm not sure you are reading it exactly as intended. The bold writing says it all. The rest is lawyer speak. There are two paragraphs. The tile or paver is fine if used with a table nest, however you will likely need a step stool to reach the cooking surface. It is not required. Also don't use your egg near anything wood or combustible (lawyers) ever. Your table is not exactly tinder or charcloth, unless you set a hot egg on it without an airgap for a couple years. I wouldn't put an egg in a wood table without the air gap. I wouldn't hesitate to put an egg in a wood table with the table nest. To each their own. Mine's in a nest.
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Ya Sorry guys for being hard headed about the matter! Mines in a standard nest so I don't even know why I'm chiming in!
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I just pointed out that BGE suggests that you should use something in conjunction with the table nest so it is not directly over combustible material... and they do, so what if it is lawyer speak.pgprescott said:I'm not sure you are reading it exactly as intended. The bold writing says it all. The rest is lawyer speak. There are two paragraphs. The tile or paver is fine if used with a table nest, however you will likely need a step stool to reach the cooking surface. It is not required. Also don't use your egg near anything wood or combustible (lawyers) ever. Your table is not exactly tinder or charcloth, unless you set a hot egg on it without an airgap for a couple years. I wouldn't put an egg in a wood table without the air gap. I wouldn't hesitate to put an egg in a wood table with the table nest. To each their own. Mine's in a nest.Large BGEBBQ Guru DigiQ IIMartensville, Saskatchewan Canada -
Dang- almost approaching a "who's lump is bigger thread" and on Friday eve. Carry on.Louisville; Rolling smoke in the neighbourhood. Life is too short for light/lite beer! Seems I'm livin in a transitional period. CHEETO (aka Agent Orange) makes Nixon look like a saint.
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I picked up some "pot feet" from the local Lowe's after someone's suggestion on here and they work great. They are similar to the bge green feet of old. Being in Colorado I did get a few interesting reactions from the employees when I asked where their pot feet were located though. Parker, Colorado
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I would imagine charcoal grates that allow better airflow have more heat hitting the paver, but my table scorched while having my egg sitting directly on a three and a half inch paver while I was still using the BGE grate.HeavyG said:
I've posted this many times before but according to BGE the use of a concrete paver block, while not the preferred method, is acceptable practice and is shown on their official table plans:bigalsworth said:
depending on how you do a word a search a lone paver solution can come with glowing reviews. My dealer told me that is all I needed, and as stated above some get away with it. I knew the risk and I took it (stupid, but I did it anyway). I did monitor the wood underneath, but only looking from the bottom, and from the bottom it still looks perfectly fine.Carolina Q said:
Surprised was the wrong word, I guess. More like, it always amazes me that people let this happen. Although, I'm sure some ARE surprised.bigalsworth said:Lol i'm not surprised, I knew it was happening. Doesn't mean I'm smart though.
There are likely many who are surprised. I think of my own dealer, how many eggs has he sold telling customers it is all okay, and I doubt many find their way to the internet to even bother to look it up.
I'm curious if using something other than the stock charcoal grate (e.g. Kick Ash Basket, High Que Grate) makes any difference in how it impacts the heat pattern thru the bottom. -
I settled the table fix by building a transport table for the small. I'm pretty hard on things, my patio, egg table, brand new paver slab for the KBQ, and military camp tables...all have charcoal, grease, sauce, burn stains galore. I now cover the folding camp tables in HD Al foil. Function trumps fancy form, in my book. Don't get me wrong, the custom tables look really cool, just not my thang. In hindsight, I'm glad I controlled the urge, to build one.
Same reason I chose formica faux granite for the kitchen DIY cutting, low maintenance, it will get used, and probably abused, at some point. Not quite keepin up with the Jones', but easily gets the job done. My plumber buddy freaked me out a little, about the radon thing.
For the transport table project, and after scientific research of various materials vs air, I went with both an air gap, and a split, split firebrick base. If I built a table for the larges, it would be with both an air gap and firebricks.BrandonQuad Cities
"If yer gonna denigrate, familiarity with the subject is helpful." -
And here I thought you lived a bit around the edges. Turns out you are a safety first guy. Oh well, can't hurt cuz you are plenty tall enough to reach the grilling surface even with a couple stones under the nest. LOL! FWIW, I really like my nest set up too. I coveted the tables when I first started Egging as well.Focker said:I settled the table fix by building a transport table for the small. I'm pretty hard on things, my patio, egg table, brand new paver slab for the KBQ, and military camp tables...all have charcoal, grease, sauce, burn stains galore. I now cover the folding camp tables in HD Al foil. Function trumps fancy form, in my book. Don't get me wrong, the custom tables look really cool, just not my thang. In hindsight, I'm glad I controlled the urge, to build one.
Same reason I chose formica faux granite for the kitchen DIY cutting, low maintenance, it will get used, and probably abused, at some point. Not quite keepin up with the Jones', but easily gets the job done. My plumber buddy freaked me out a little, about the radon thing.
For the transport table project, and after scientific research of various materials vs air, I went with both an air gap, and a split, split firebrick base. If I built a table for the larges, it would be with both an air gap and firebricks. -
I just have the nest. But. I use my infrared thermometer to monitor the table temp under the egg while cooking.
I may get a stone to go with that but lifting the egg and putting the stone in is not task that I'm anxious to attempt.Marshall in Beautiful Fruit Cove, FL.
MiniMax 04/17
Unofficial BGE MiniMax Evangelist
Facebook Big Green Egg MiniMax Owners Group -
What are the results from your monitoring?SaintJohnsEgger said:I just have the nest. But. I use my infrared thermometer to monitor the table temp under the egg while cooking.
I may get a stone to go with that but lifting the egg and putting the stone in is not task that I'm anxious to attempt. -
That was one of the reasons that it has taken me so long to get something under mine for an air gap. Pure laziness on my part. I am replacing the base now because mine is cracked so I figured I might as well put the nest in.SaintJohnsEgger said:I just have the nest. But. I use my infrared thermometer to monitor the table temp under the egg while cooking.
I may get a stone to go with that but lifting the egg and putting the stone in is not task that I'm anxious to attempt.Large BGEBBQ Guru DigiQ IIMartensville, Saskatchewan Canada -
Two buddies, a six pack, and two minutes. Done deal.SaintJohnsEgger said:putting the stone in is not task that I'm anxious to attempt.
L x2, M, S, Mini and a Blackstone 36. She says I have enough now....eggAddict from MN!
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