OT Plumbing Issue/Question

RajunCajun

Hello,

I have three of these on my house that my plumber installed three years ago on my exterior brick wall.  Water is leaking from the stem of one spigot.  These are all 3/4" threads and they screw on to a 3/4" galvanized nipple that I assume screws into some type of copper fitting in the wall.  Should be easy enough, right?  One would say to just unscrew the faucet and replace it.  BUT WHAT IF THE 3/4" NIPPLE UNSCREWS IN THE WALL?

Is this a standard spigot that I can replace the packing?  Anybody recognize this by brand?

Any help of suggestions are greatly appreciated.

alaskanassasin

You absolutely have to unthread that from the back side, in the crawl space. It could even be soldered on.

RajunCajun

alaskanassasin said:

You absolutely have to unthread that from the back side, in the crawl space. It could even be soldered on.

No crawl space here....slab.  I am 100% certain on the 3/4" galvanized nipple I mention.

alaskanassasin

Or clamped with a pex fitting. Also if your plumber was thinking ahead there should be a shutoff valve before the spigot 

RajunCajun

alaskanassasin said:

Or clamped with a pex fitting. Also if your plumber was thinking ahead there should be a shutoff valve before the spigot 

alaskanassasin said:

Or clamped with a pex fitting. Also if your plumber was thinking ahead there should be a shutoff valve before the spigot 

alaskanassasin said:

Or clamped with a pex fitting. Also if your plumber was thinking ahead there should be a shutoff valve before the spigot 

alaskanassasin said:

Or clamped with a pex fitting. Also if your plumber was thinking ahead there should be a shutoff valve before the spigot 

No pex, no shutoff valve......100% certain.

DoubleEgger

Did you try tightening it from the outside? I tightened a one year old spigot a few weeks ago and stopped a small leak. 

RajunCajun

DoubleEgger said:

Did you try tightening it from the outside? I tightened a one year old spigot a few weeks ago and stopped a small leak. 

Yes sir, I tried snugging it a smidgeon.....no el worko  

lousubcap

Similar issue a few years ago.  I just wanted to remove the valve stem and replace the packing.  I was informed that such an option is no longer available.
Absent a specific shut-off valve then you will need to shut off the water to the house to mess with it.  At the risk of the obvious... but before going down that road you need to have in hand whatever you need to isolate the water to that valve/stem if you can't fix the leak.  
Amateur plumbing is a serious and mot often painful rabbit hole.  

ColbyLang

With any luck, a small bump with an adjustable pipe wrench will get it moving to replace. I’d hate to see you back the fitting out of the inside of the wall and have a perpetual leak. 


 Crawl space lol, we ain’t got no crawl spaces in Louisiana 

alaskanassasin

ColbyLang said:

With any luck, a small bump with an adjustable pipe wrench will get it moving to replace. I’d hate to see you back the fitting out of the inside of the wall and have a perpetual leak. 


 Crawl space lol, we ain’t got no crawl spaces in Louisiana 

I love my midwestern basement! All plumbing repairs can be done in the comfort of your slippers and a step ladder.

caliking

Have you tried tightening whatever this nut is called? That fixed a leaking outside faucet twice. 

GrateEggspectations

This is why I love the OT posts of this forum. 

No real plumbing experience here. My family members are rather hairy (heads only!), so we have had a few recent blockages that needed professional attention. My 25’ snake is simply insufficient in this household. 

Good luck with the issue, @RajunCajun. 

RajunCajun

lousubcap said:

Similar issue a few years ago.  I just wanted to remove the valve stem and replace the packing.  I was informed that such an option is no longer available.
Absent a specific shut-off valve then you will need to shut off the water to the house to mess with it.  At the risk of the obvious... but before going down that road you need to have in hand whatever you need to isolate the water to that valve/stem if you can't fix the leak.  
Amateur plumbing is a serious and mot often painful rabbit hole.  

The house is actually 26yrs old.  I am a pretty handy do it yourself but I opted to hire a plumber 3 yrs ago as I was concerned about the obvious.  Plumbers helper showed up, said yeah, some do that, most don't.  Unscrewed all three with no issue.  I know my luck....if I try doing that now the darn thing is likely to unscrew in the wall.  I have one valve to the inlet for my whole house.  I just wasn't thinking when I built.

hoosier_egger

I’ll dive into most home repairs except for plumbing. I cannot stand it. I’ll gladly pay the professional. 

ColbyLang

Three rules of plumbing:
1) hot on the left, cold on the right
2)**** cannot flow uphill
3)don’t bite your nails

fishlessman

If it's the packing nut, shut the main off, remove packing nut, twist 1/2inch Teflon pipe tape into a rope. Wrap the rope around the stem and put the nut back on. Turn main back on and adjust nut if needed. The rope needs to be wrapped clockwise on the stem

dbCooper

ColbyLang said:

Three rules of plumbing:
1) hot on the left, cold on the right
2)**** cannot flow uphill
3)don’t bite your nails

One more that I follow . . . never work on plumbing when the hardware stores are closed.

@RajunCajun & @caliking - believe that is called a packing nut.  As suggested tightening it may stop the stem leak.  Removing it would allow you to replace the packing or O-ring to reseal the stem.

Canugghead

Ain't no plumber here but we have a pro plumber on the forum, he's seldom around though. Thanks again @Roadpuke0 for your recommendation to replace my swing check valve with spring check valve, has been working like a charm since Jan 2023.
https://eggheadforum.com/discussion/comment/2689155#Comment_2689155?utm_source=community-search&utm_medium=organic-search&utm_term=spring+check+valve

I like fish's suggestion.

zaphod

in blacksmithing there is a saying that you never burn yourself on red hot iron, you get burnt on black hot iron. you know not to touch the red hot stuff. 

Copper does not have the decency to change colour when you solder it. For a while there every time I soldered I would grab the wrong end of a pipe at least once. ouch. Pex does have the advantage of not needing soldering but I don't like it otherwise. Soldering copper is a lost art.

What Cali-king said is likely right. you can tighten/loosen that nut (I think that I see one on your tap) without a risk of unscrewing any interiour connexion as doing that does not spin the tap.  Teflon tape was preceeded by stuff called plumbers putty. It came in a stick. You rubbed the end of the stick onto threads to completely fill the threads all the way around. Then you screwed things together and nothing leaked. it worked as well as teflon tape, maybe better. Mostly replaced by teflon these days. 



if, when you remove that nut, you may find a washer that needs replacing. That tap looks like a seat and washer assembly, not a ball valve.

don't forget to turn off the water first.

don't forget to get a better plumber that installs shutoffs.

Dyal_SC

*edit*

RajunCajun said:

alaskanassasin said:

You absolutely have to unthread that from the back side, in the crawl space. It could even be soldered on.

No crawl space here....slab.  I am 100% certain on the 3/4" galvanized nipple I mention.

Edit to my previous suggestion. Never had experience with that setup  

GrateEggspectations

Canugghead said:

Ain't no plumber here but we have a pro plumber on the forum, he's seldom around though. Thanks again @Roadpuke0 for your recommendation to replace my swing check valve with spring check valve, has been working like a charm since Jan 2023.
https://eggheadforum.com/discussion/comment/2689155#Comment_2689155?utm_source=community-search&utm_medium=organic-search&utm_term=spring+check+valve

I like fish's suggestion.

The “like” is for the quaint handle.

Dyal_SC

I would say just start as  @caliking mentioned with the packing nut scenario. If that doesn’t work, and if you’re positive about the threaded nipple being the supply to the valve:  Turn off your main water supply, then release the water at the spigot. Next, start unscrewing the assembly and just make sure the hose bib is spinning off the nipple’s threads at the spigot, and that the whole thing isn’t free spinning off another threaded connection in the wall. I’ve never heard of a second threaded connection on a supply line like that, so it should just unscrew at the spigot. If you determine it’s free spinning from a second connection, just reverse the process and call a plumber. 

Not a plumber though, just an aging man with life experiences of unfortunate similar scenarios. 😂 

I would just replace the whole ball valve instead of messing with the washers and individual components.   And make sure to use teflon tape. But I believe you can also just unscrew that Philips screw on the handle, access the valve stem and match that up at the hardware store and replace only that (without messing with the supply line). 

Mine is a crawl space with cpvc for the supply line.  My dog pulled mine completely out last year and snapped the cpvc in the crawl space. Aggravating, but a simple fix. 

Canugghead

Before you turn the nut, remember to hold the spigot as 'still' as possible with a large vise grip, wrench or what have you. i.e. double wrenching.

kl8ton

Did your plumber die? Call them.

There is likely a rebuild kit for that. Turn off the main. Pull out the stem and put in new parts. 

If your plumber is still in business, they should be able to tell you what they installed....

xfire_ATX

I had one like this that was threaded on but basically in the bricks.  Had to chip out the bricks to get a hold of the pipe in the wall to replace.  Then had to mortar back.

Did have another one recently that was leaking at the handle and I took Channel Locks out there and it was loose at the nut.  Light tighten and quit leaking.

Canugghead

The problem with a problem is that you don't know it's a problem until it's a problem, and that is a big problem.

zaphod

kl8ton said:

Did your plumber die? Call them.

There is likely a rebuild kit for that. Turn off the main. Pull out the stem and put in new parts. 

If your plumber is still in business, they should be able to tell you what they installed....

from @kl8ton diagram, the bottom of the part I have circled in red is the seat, if that is chipped you will have a leak. the washer I have circled in blue is the one that old school taps need to have replaced as they wear out pretty fast. there are flat washers and domed washers you have to replace flat for flat and domed for domed along with diameter/thickness as well.  you can likely get a baggy of the washers for a buck. the brass part is more expensive if you can find it.



kudos to @kl8ton for the diagram and for pointing you back to the original plumber who got you into this with a tap that failed after only 3 years.

Just curious - are you in an area that gets frost/freezing? if so, that plumber should have installed an anti-freeze tap and you should not leave hoses attached during the frost/freeze times of the year.

RajunCajun

UPDATE.

The brand used is Arrowhead.  All production is done here in the US of A.   Part number is a 355LF and they offer a seal rebuild kit (934) as well as a stem assy (PK 1100) and the handle (PK1290).  Very rebuildable.  CS is US based, a pleasant experience.  I ordered more than enough.....3 handles, 6 stem assys and 3 seal rebuild kits.

Thanks to you for your insight and ideas.

  

zaphod

good news for you. have fun with the replacements

RajunCajun

zaphod said:

good news for you. have fun with the replacements :

Rebuildable and parts are available.  Surprising to me.