These New Big Green Eggs

CP92

Smoking ribs today. Did a clean burn a couple of weeks ago and figured I'd finally submit my claim for a cracked firebox to HQ, so I pulled everything out and did a complete clean out.

Put everything back, filled with lump, started a fire (wadded papertowel soaked in veg oil) got a nice burn going. Shut the lid and let it settle in. Came back about 20 mins later and it had run away a little bit (400ish). No big deal, through my cook grate in along with my deflector to act as a heat sink. Settled in at 250 and threw my ribs on. 

Two hours in the temp kept dropping slowly. Now I'm open on the bottom and top half way with no change. Pull the cook grate and deflector out and don't notice much of a fire. Get the hairdryer out and nothing. I had to relight the freaking fire. 

Remember, I had the issue where I couldn't get my Egg over 500 when I first replaced my older model broken one. We figured out the screen has a tighter weave.  

Def not a fan of the new design and all the little changes they've made along the way. 

Guess I'll throw pics up of the finished product since I'm already here for the day. 

Regards,
Chris

JohnInCarolina

Chris,

  You might want to look into getting one of these:

https://www.atbbq.com/products/high-que-stainless-steel-high-heat-firegrate-big-green-egg?srsltid=AfmBOopvFfF8VdQUvVnf59ImWUVI_N1OOueRFuG8jRPnyCxP_ACcsj7z

  Probably one of the most cost-effective mods for the BGE.  I suspect they fit the new models just fine.

CP92

JohnInCarolina said:

Chris,

  You might want to look into getting one of these:

Thanks, John. But I've been running a Kick Ash basket from the get go though. Assume it would have the same effect as the above?

JohnInCarolina

CP92 said:

JohnInCarolina said:

Chris,

  You might want to look into getting one of these:

Thanks, John. But I've been running a Kick Ash basket from the get go though. Assume it would have the same effect as the above?

Probably not a huge difference.  I’m assuming you removed the standard grate when you put the KAB in?

JohnInCarolina

What you’re seeing is odd.  It’s got to be that the airflow is getting overly restricted somehow.  But I’ve never had a fire go out on me unless I was trying to keep temps very low.

CP92

100% agree it's all about air flow. Just odd I never had an issue like this with my old egg. Makes no sense. The only thing it COULD be is too small pieces of lump, but I just don't think so. Second fire/load from a new bag of Royal Oak. Plenty of air flow when I started it and closed the lid.

     As I said, it ran away to over 400. Would think if the lump were causing air flow issues from the get go, it woudn't have manifested later in the cook. And after the restart its humming along at 262 with the vent settings just about where they started to begin the cook with. 

unoriginalusername

I am actually pretty happy with all the changes since I last bought an egg. New cap, hinge, nest, eggspander etc along with a much improved unboxing and setup things have come a long ways. 

I do have a ash can and basket but have had no issue reaching any temp 

Corv

I have a relatively new Large (with the new cap) and am running a KAB and, at the same time, the standard cast iron ash grate. So far, there haven't been any problems with either getting to temperature or holding a temperature. Just a data point

kl8ton

Just checking.... Is the vent opening on the fire bowl lined up with the vent on the base?
I do understand you had a runaway fire but just checking the basics.

CP92

kl8ton said:

Just checking.... Is the vent opening on the fire bowl lined up with the vent on the base?
I do understand you had a runaway fire but just checking the basics.

Definitely lined up. Thanks for checking. 

CP92

Yeah, guess we can chalk it up to operator error. We'll see if it occurs again.

Thanks for all the input/suggestions.

Chris

Buckwoody Egger

if i ever have issues like this, i break out the homemade “wiggle rods”.  used to disturb the bed of lump and open up paths for air. 

basically a couple of long sturdy ss skewers. one has a 90 degree bend on the last 4” that i use through the bottom vent upwards. other is straight and used from cooking grid downward. 

buzd504

JohnInCarolina said:

What you’re seeing is odd.  It’s got to be that the airflow is getting overly restricted somehow.  But I’ve never had a fire go out on me unless I was trying to keep temps very low.

I replaced my ceramics, and the new stuff definitely has less efficient airflow.  The firebox has higher holes (presumably so they won't get clogged) and the fire ring doesn't have the notches for the platesetter (which really annoys me).

It's workable, but it's a downgrade.

JohnInCarolina

buzd504 said:

JohnInCarolina said:

What you’re seeing is odd.  It’s got to be that the airflow is getting overly restricted somehow.  But I’ve never had a fire go out on me unless I was trying to keep temps very low.

I replaced my ceramics, and the new stuff definitely has less efficient airflow.  The firebox has higher holes (presumably so they won't get clogged) and the fire ring doesn't have the notches for the platesetter (which really annoys me).

It's workable, but it's a downgrade.

So you’re saying I shouldn’t replace any of the internal components of my BGE, which all happen to be cracked?  🤪

I actually am in no hurry to replace anything, since it works like a champ.  The cracked parts really don’t work any less well than when they were brand new.  

buzd504

JohnInCarolina said:

buzd504 said:

JohnInCarolina said:

What you’re seeing is odd.  It’s got to be that the airflow is getting overly restricted somehow.  But I’ve never had a fire go out on me unless I was trying to keep temps very low.

I replaced my ceramics, and the new stuff definitely has less efficient airflow.  The firebox has higher holes (presumably so they won't get clogged) and the fire ring doesn't have the notches for the platesetter (which really annoys me).

It's workable, but it's a downgrade.

So you’re saying I shouldn’t replace any of the internal components of my BGE, which all happen to be cracked?  🤪

I actually am in no hurry to replace anything, since it works like a champ.  The cracked parts really don’t work any less well than when they were brand new.  

I'm not saying that.  The new pieces are better than my totally broken pieces, but apples to apples (new parts to new parts) - I liked the old versions better.

kl8ton

JohnInCarolina said:

buzd504 said:

JohnInCarolina said:

What you’re seeing is odd.  It’s got to be that the airflow is getting overly restricted somehow.  But I’ve never had a fire go out on me unless I was trying to keep temps very low.

I replaced my ceramics, and the new stuff definitely has less efficient airflow.  The firebox has higher holes (presumably so they won't get clogged) and the fire ring doesn't have the notches for the platesetter (which really annoys me).

It's workable, but it's a downgrade.

So you’re saying I shouldn’t replace any of the internal components of my BGE, which all happen to be cracked?  🤪

I actually am in no hurry to replace anything, since it works like a champ.  The cracked parts really don’t work any less well than when they were brand new.  

Soon you will be ready for the next phase: Go through warranty process and store replacement part in garage for 3 and 1/2 years.

CP92

Buckwoody Egger said:

if i ever have issues like this, i break out the homemade “wiggle rods”.  used to disturb the bed of lump and open up paths for air. 

Novel. I'll take that under consideration for sure. Thanks.

sancho65

CP92 said:

Smoking ribs today. Did a clean burn a couple of weeks ago and figured I'd finally submit my claim for a cracked firebox to HQ, so I pulled everything out and did a complete clean out.

Put everything back, filled with lump, started a fire (wadded papertowel soaked in veg oil) got a nice burn going. Shut the lid and let it settle in. Came back about 20 mins later and it had run away a little bit (400ish). No big deal, through my cook grate in along with my deflector to act as a heat sink. Settled in at 250 and threw my ribs on. 

Two hours in the temp kept dropping slowly. Now I'm open on the bottom and top half way with no change. Pull the cook grate and deflector out and don't notice much of a fire. Get the hairdryer out and nothing. I had to relight the freaking fire. 

Remember, I had the issue where I couldn't get my Egg over 500 when I first replaced my older model broken one. We figured out the screen has a tighter weave.  

Def not a fan of the new design and all the little changes they've made along the way. 

Guess I'll throw pics up of the finished product since I'm already here for the day. 

Regards,
Chris

Chris, just what are all the changes and Design changes are you speaking of? Just curious.

Canugghead

Buckwoody Egger said:

if i ever have issues like this, i break out the homemade “wiggle rods”.  used to disturb the bed of lump and open up paths for air. 

basically a couple of long sturdy ss skewers. one has a 90 degree bend on the last 4” that i use through the bottom vent upwards. other is straight and used from cooking grid downward. 

At Niagara Eggfest many years ago I was lucky to receive this gift from @chocdoc, an amazing cook and a real doc. Her friend made it, it's 1/4" stainless with a 3" bend. It works well from above too, you can insert through the three P/S gaps and rotate the handle to stir the lump bed.

bluebird66

Canugghead said:

Buckwoody Egger said:

if i ever have issues like this, i break out the homemade “wiggle rods”.  used to disturb the bed of lump and open up paths for air. 

basically a couple of long sturdy ss skewers. one has a 90 degree bend on the last 4” that i use through the bottom vent upwards. other is straight and used from cooking grid downward. 

At Niagara Eggfest many years ago I was lucky to receive this gift from @chocdoc, an amazing cook and a real doc. Her friend made it, it's 1/4" stainless with a 3" bend. It works well from above too, you can insert through the three P/S gaps and rotate the handle to stir the lump bed.

Boy, I would really like to have one of these.

Canugghead

bluebird66 said:

Canugghead said:

Buckwoody Egger said:

if i ever have issues like this, i break out the homemade “wiggle rods”.  used to disturb the bed of lump and open up paths for air. 

basically a couple of long sturdy ss skewers. one has a 90 degree bend on the last 4” that i use through the bottom vent upwards. other is straight and used from cooking grid downward. 

At Niagara Eggfest many years ago I was lucky to receive this gift from @chocdoc, an amazing cook and a real doc. Her friend made it, it's 1/4" stainless with a 3" bend. It works well from above too, you can insert through the three P/S gaps and rotate the handle to stir the lump bed.

Boy, I would really like to have one of these.

Ping @CGS

tjv

@bluebird66
@Canugghead

Ah, the old wiggle rod—definitely a nostalgic trip down memory lane! I believe Thirdeye was the mastermind behind it.

I wasn’t sure of the exact dimensions, except for the 3-inch point referenced. So, I crafted this one using scrap 1/4" 304 stainless steel rod on the Lubow table this afternoon. It measures 17.75" in total length, with a 6" handle that’s about 1" wide. I tig-welded the handle to the straight rod with some filler.

It was a fun little project, especially since I’ve been stuck at this computer all week!

Only thing left is find a home for it, so where is it going......

Canugghead

tjv said:

@bluebird66
@Canugghead

Ah, the old wiggle rod—definitely a nostalgic trip down memory lane! I believe Thirdeye was the mastermind behind it.

I wasn’t sure of the exact dimensions, except for the 3-inch point referenced. So, I crafted this one using scrap 1/4" 304 stainless steel rod on the Lubow table this afternoon. It measures 17.75" in total length, with a 6" handle that’s about 1" wide. I tig-welded the handle to the straight rod with some filler.

It was a fun little project, especially since I’ve been stuck at this computer all week!

Only thing left is find a home for it, so where is it going......

Nice! I'm sure @bluebird66 would love it, I already have one and it's easier to ship within the US. The dimensions are close, my handle is about 6.25"x1.25", overall length is 16". I like yours with the longer reach.
Edit: just noticed an interesting difference, my bend is parallel to the handle whereas yours is perpendicular. 

dbCooper

A modified metal coat hanger has got me by for 15 years . . .

CP92

sancho65 said:

Chris, just what are all the changes and Design changes are you speaking of? Just curious.

Sancho, the two big ones are the mesh for the bottom vent has a much tighter weave that restricts air flow. On my old large, getting to 800+ was no issue; open the top vent or remove it (see next change) and open the bottom vent all the way but leave the screen closed. However, with the new weave I could barely get to 500. See my thread from a couple of years ago about that. 

The other big one is the new top vent. Instead of the daisy wheel, it was changed to a single sliding pivot vent. Plus it's almost fused on there. When I queried HQ about removing it, they said just use something to gently tap it from the bottom, which just read to me as be very careful about not breaking the dome. I also had a post about that issue.

Hope this helps.

Chris

bluebird66

Canugghead said:

tjv said:

@bluebird66
@Canugghead

Ah, the old wiggle rod—definitely a nostalgic trip down memory lane! I believe Thirdeye was the mastermind behind it.

I wasn’t sure of the exact dimensions, except for the 3-inch point referenced. So, I crafted this one using scrap 1/4" 304 stainless steel rod on the Lubow table this afternoon. It measures 17.75" in total length, with a 6" handle that’s about 1" wide. I tig-welded the handle to the straight rod with some filler.

It was a fun little project, especially since I’ve been stuck at this computer all week!

Only thing left is find a home for it, so where is it going......

Nice! I'm sure @bluebird66 would love it, I already have one and it's easier to ship within the US. The dimensions are close, my handle is about 6.25"x1.25", overall length is 16". I like yours with the longer reach.
Edit: just noticed an interesting difference, my bend is parallel to the handle whereas yours is perpendicular. 

I would surely LOVE it! Plus I'm a long time customer of CGS.