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Ordered the new Kamado Joe wire mesh fiberglass gasket

I've had it with felt gaskets, Rutland, what have you. It's all crap imo. I own an Egg XL for almost two years, and replaced gaskets twice, and now need a third replacement. Once you install a new gasket, it holds up well until you get the Egg hot. Once you cook pizzas ( 550 to 700). or let it rip to clean (1000 degrees), the gasket is gone. It thins out and petrifies, and gaps are created causing it to start to leak. 

My bro in law  owns a Big Joe, the latest with the fancy wire mesh fiberglass gasket. That Big Joe gasket is so obviously superior to what comes with the Egg. You can just look at it and you know immediately wonder why the Egg doesn't come with something like that. He owns his KJ for a little over a year, his usage is similar to mine, and the gasket looks like new to this day. He has zero leaks. You couldn't squeeze a hair between his lids if you tried it. 

I will post pictures and updates here once I install it. It is pricey at $99:
https://www.bbqguys.com/kamado-joe/fiberglass-gasket-for-24-inch-bigjoe-grills

A couple of notes:
1) While leaky gaskets bother me, it seems like the leaks due to worn out gaskets do not affect my cooks. Long brisket cooks seem to yield same results. 

2) Some have said that KJ gasket wouldn't work on the egg because the egg has no latch to compress it. I don't think that's correct. The reason the KJ has a latch is due to the weightless lid as a result of their fancy hinge. Either way, we'll find out once I get the gasket.

Stay tuned



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Comments

  • pgprescottpgprescott Posts: 12,350
    Do me a favor and get you BIL unit up to 1000 a couple times and let me know how that gasket looks. Make note how supple it is or isn’t.   

    thanks 
  • Do me a favor and get you BIL unit up to 1000 a couple times and let me know how that gasket looks. Make note how supple it is or isn’t.   

    thanks 
    I just asked him, he said he never got it to 1000, but got to 800 a few times. I'll make sure to update this thread once I get it that hot again a couple of times. Maybe you're right, maybe there is no food grade gasket out there that can stand these temps. I'll find out. 
  • RRPRRP Posts: 22,957
    "I've had it with felt gaskets, Rutland, what have you. It's all crap imo."

    Hmmm, you are free to state your opinion, but do you have any experience to back up that opinion? I know a guy who has had the same Rutland on his often used Large BGE for 17 years now...me!
    L, M, S &  Mini
    Re-gasketing America one yard at a time

    Ron
    Dunlap, IL
  • LitLit Posts: 7,537
    RRP said:
    "I've had it with felt gaskets, Rutland, what have you. It's all crap imo."

    Hmmm, you are free to state your opinion, but do you have any experience to back up that opinion? I know a guy who has had the same Rutland on his often used Large BGE for 17 years now...me!
    As I’ve stated before my Rutland lasted like a year or 2. The permeated actually failed and started peeling off in a section and it became a pain so I pulled it off. 
  • stlcharcoalstlcharcoal Posts: 3,978
    I still do not see the reason they have that gasket on the top and bottom.  Whether it's automotive, home windows, or anything else, there's only one gasket on one side.  Two gaskets smooshed together do not form a better seal than one smooshed against a smooth hard surface.  A gasket itself can be porous or woven, so if it doesn't have the proper amount of pressure applied to it, then it might not seal.  

    The KJ's technically have FOUR gaskets.  Applied directly to the ceramic on the dome and base, there's a felt type gasket applied, then the two woven fiberglass ones are glued to those.  All it really needs is ONE of the squishy woven fiberglass ones.
  • RRP said:
    "I've had it with felt gaskets, Rutland, what have you. It's all crap imo."

    Hmmm, you are free to state your opinion, but do you have any experience to back up that opinion? I know a guy who has had the same Rutland on his often used Large BGE for 17 years now...me!
    Yes. Last gasket I had was this Rutland:
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000H5R4LQ/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
     
    This is the one that is currently petrified on my Egg. I could leave it there and have the same mummified gasket for 17 years. Heck, I'm sure I could have no gasket at all and the Egg would still cook my briskets, but that is not the point if you actually care about the gasket behaving like...well... a gasket. . 

  • fishlessmanfishlessman Posts: 25,141
    my last two eggs i just removed the gaskets before assembly and have been happy ever since. get this, my smoker smokes =)
  • dbCooperdbCooper Posts: 128
    My first Rutland outlasted my LBGE base, gasket looked and performed well after 8+ years.  Replacement base was Rutland equipped after I received it and no issues after almost 3 years.
    600-700 is highest I ever have a need to go to.
    LBGE, 22" Weber
    Great Plains, USA
  • RRPRRP Posts: 22,957
    edited September 20
    haroldopsf said:
     
    This is the one that is currently petrified on my Egg. I could leave it there and have the same mummified gasket for 17 years. Heck, I'm sure I could have no gasket at all and the Egg would still cook my briskets, but that is not the point if you actually care about the gasket behaving like...well... a gasketharoldopsf said:
    Well, sir I get your "mummified" scarcasm but my 17 years has been with regular useage. BTW that 95W-6 is the rope style meaning when flattened that is 2 internal sides crushing each other creating gasket failure. The proper Rutland is the 95-6.
    L, M, S &  Mini
    Re-gasketing America one yard at a time

    Ron
    Dunlap, IL
  • I have a rutland waiting to go on, it's been like a year or two now.  it seals better without gaskets than it did with the original hence why I have never put the new one on.

    noting better that hearing that whooooshhhh sound as it seals up when you close it... soo cool :)

    The only reason I kind of want a gasket is more of a soft landing for when the lid accidentally drops from to high up but I haven't heard of anyone's cracking because of that so....the new gasket sits 
  • calikingcaliking Posts: 12,953
    Given the temps you're reporting, I'm surprised that the base of your egg has outlived multiple gaskets. 

    #1 LBGE December 2012 • #2 SBGE February  2013 • #3 Mini May 2013
    A happy BGE family in Houston, TX.
  • If you keep burning gaskets you probably don't have your dome aligned. 
  • tjvtjv Posts: 3,828
    that gasket is big for the large egg.  egg shell is 1" wide. the gasket, at rest dome open, 1-1/4" wide on joe classic.   t
    www.ceramicgrillstore.com ACGP, Inc.
  • TEXASBGE2018TEXASBGE2018 Posts: 2,479
    I regularly get my egg to 600-700 degrees and beyond and I have had my original gaskets on for almost 2 years. Zero leaks. When eventually they do "fail" and by fail I mean start burning completely off the egg. I will either take them both off and not have one, or just get the Nomex one. I'm not gonna waste $100 on a gasket.


    Rockwall, Tx    LBGE, Minimax, 22" Blackstone, Pizza Party Bollore. Cast Iron Hoarder.

  • Does Rutland still tell everyone not to use these gaskets for cooking? I remember a warning from them not to use them. Has that changed ?
  • RRP said:
    haroldopsf said:
     
    This is the one that is currently petrified on my Egg. I could leave it there and have the same mummified gasket for 17 years. Heck, I'm sure I could have no gasket at all and the Egg would still cook my briskets, but that is not the point if you actually care about the gasket behaving like...well... a gasketharoldopsf said:
    Well, sir I get your "mummified" scarcasm but my 17 years has been with regular useage. BTW that 95W-6 is the rope style meaning when flattened that is 2 internal sides crushing each other creating gasket failure. The proper Rutland is the 95-6.
    There was no sarcasm, Ron. My gasket is actually mummified, for lack of better term. Hmmm, interesting about me having the wrong type. I wish I knew that when I bought it. 
  • If you keep burning gaskets you probably don't have your dome aligned. 

    You are correct. I have a slight under bite (top lid sits slightly offset towards the back). I've tried every and all adjustments on that ring, and about a 1/4 inch underbite is the best I can get.


  • pgprescottpgprescott Posts: 12,350
    If you keep burning gaskets you probably don't have your dome aligned. 

    You are correct. I have a slight under bite (top lid sits slightly offset towards the back). I've tried every and all adjustments on that ring, and about a 1/4 inch underbite is the best I can get.


    This is generally the result of the bands being pushed to far up and/or down on the ceramics. If the bands are placed too far on the ceramics it engages the hinge mechanism and pulls the lid back. The bands should be basically lined up with the transition between the gasket and the ceramics. The new hinge has slotted attachment points which allow the lid to be placed exactly where you want it. Either way. Good luck. 

  • This is generally the result of the bands being pushed to far up and/or down on the ceramics. If the bands are placed too far on the ceramics it engages the hinge mechanism and pulls the lid back. The bands should be basically lined up with the transition between the gasket and the ceramics. The new hinge has slotted attachment points which allow the lid to be placed exactly where you want it. Either way. Good luck. 
    My egg is about 18 months old, give or take. Do I have the new hinge? I do have slots , and they are pushed all the way and still have the underbite. Not sure if these are the slots you mention...
  • ColtsFanColtsFan Posts: 3,618
    edited September 20
    And here ripping off the factory gasket and installing a Rutland is the first thing I do with my eggs.

    Couldn't be happier 
    2-XL BGE, 2-LG BGE, KJ Jr, 36" Blackstone, Ardore Pizza Oven
    Follow me on Instagram @hoosier_egger
    Bloomington, IN - Hoo Hoo Hoo Hoosiers!
  • pgprescottpgprescott Posts: 12,350

    This is generally the result of the bands being pushed to far up and/or down on the ceramics. If the bands are placed too far on the ceramics it engages the hinge mechanism and pulls the lid back. The bands should be basically lined up with the transition between the gasket and the ceramics. The new hinge has slotted attachment points which allow the lid to be placed exactly where you want it. Either way. Good luck. 
    My egg is about 18 months old, give or take. Do I have the new hinge? I do have slots , and they are pushed all the way and still have the underbite. Not sure if these are the slots you mention...
    Did you put it together? Do you have the plastic spacer tabs? You should be able to close the lid, loosen the cap nuts and literally adjust the lid to exactly where you want it and retighten the two cap nuts. If that doesn’t work the bands are likely not installed quite right or they have moved. Sounds like you have a new one. 
  • tjvtjv Posts: 3,828
    If the xl is about 18 months old. check with your dealer on a warranty. he'll need your serial number.  more going on with grill than you can fix  

    t
    www.ceramicgrillstore.com ACGP, Inc.
  • LegumeLegume Posts: 9,893
    I love this thread.  
  • Mattman3969Mattman3969 Posts: 9,151
    RRP said:
    "I've had it with felt gaskets, Rutland, what have you. It's all crap imo."

    Hmmm, you are free to state your opinion, but do you have any experience to back up that opinion? I know a guy who has had the same Rutland on his often used Large BGE for 17 years now...me!
    Same guy that stir fries(sautés) at 350°?   


    To the OP I just replace my BGE brand gasket after 9yrs of use.  It’s all in the dome adjustment and how sloppy you are with sauce.   Just saying.  

    -----------------------------------------


    2008 -Large BGE. 2013- Small BGE and 2015 - Mini. Henderson, Ky.
  • pgprescottpgprescott Posts: 12,350

    This is generally the result of the bands being pushed to far up and/or down on the ceramics. If the bands are placed too far on the ceramics it engages the hinge mechanism and pulls the lid back. The bands should be basically lined up with the transition between the gasket and the ceramics. The new hinge has slotted attachment points which allow the lid to be placed exactly where you want it. Either way. Good luck. 
    My egg is about 18 months old, give or take. Do I have the new hinge? I do have slots , and they are pushed all the way and still have the underbite. Not sure if these are the slots you mention...
    There was a short period where some of the slots where not long enough. You might have Gorton one of those. They can just swap out the two arms on the sides with ones with longer slots. Just jogged my memory. 
  • haroldopsfharoldopsf Posts: 36
    edited September 30
    Installed the gasket yesterday. The gasket itself is on a different dimension compared to the stuff we all use on our eggs (nomex, rutland). It is thick, metallic, spongy, and then double that as it goes on top and bottom lids. What a world of difference. The gasket is so filling, makes lid alignment unnecessary, as the gasket will conform and fill any lid gap. The weight of the top lid is plenty to compress the gasket.  Note how it comes with a 3M metallic adhesive sleeve to cover the connection (see connection towards the back). I highly recommend this mod, well worth it so far. Will keep this updated as it goes through heat cycles. 
    Here are some pics as I was installing:







  • CanuggheadCanugghead Posts: 6,785
    Looks good. Considering the thickness/sponginess of the material you can probably get away with just one side? Having both may help prevent freezing shut though.

    IMO a potential weak link could be the contact between ceramic and the base felt-like (?) material?  I’ve seen them peeling off on brand new KJ in dealer showroom.  Hopefully you did a better gluing job than KJ assembly line.
    canuckland
  • haroldopsfharoldopsf Posts: 36
    edited September 30
    Looks good. Considering the thickness/sponginess of the material you can probably get away with just one side? Having both may help prevent freezing shut though.

    IMO a potential weak link could be the contact between ceramic and the base felt-like (?) material?  I’ve seen them peeling off on brand new KJ in dealer showroom.  Hopefully you did a better gluing job than KJ assembly line.
    Yes, you probably could get away with one side, but since you can only buy the whole length for both lids, I just went all the way. I feel like I can just drop the lid now (not that I would) and it will just bounce off. 
     There is no felt like anything in this gasket. The gasket is made of this metallic material, and one of the sides has a 3M adhesive backing. That's it, no felt. In fact, I almost ruined a nice pair of scissors trying to cut the excess off. Had to use pliers snips. 
  • RRPRRP Posts: 22,957
     
     There is no felt like anything in this gasket. 
    How much did it set you back?  I've seen both $99 and $109 plus S & H. Correct there is "no felt like anything" cauz it's woven fiberglas.
    L, M, S &  Mini
    Re-gasketing America one yard at a time

    Ron
    Dunlap, IL
  • haroldopsfharoldopsf Posts: 36
    edited September 30
    RRP said:
     
     There is no felt like anything in this gasket. 
    How much did it set you back?  I've seen both $99 and $109 plus S & H. Correct there is "no felt like anything" cauz it's woven fiberglas.
    Hi Ron, it cost $99. Whatever it is, it is not the felt like material of the nomex and rutland. It feels and looks like some metallic stuff. It's stiffer and spongier, almost impossible to cut with scissors.
    Some may think this is expensive. After spending about $2400 when I bought the XL, plus table, plus accessories, I feel like $99 to is not the end of the world.  The gasket feels like $99, and my previous gaskets did indeed feel like $10 or whatever they cost.

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