OT - Under Cabinet Lighting

stlcharcoal

I have been using the LED light tape off eBay under my cabinets and microwave for 6 years now.  I just wired up a switch controlled outlet under the sink and plugged the power source into that.  $30 for the whole project.

I also have that tape mounted under the shelves and wall cabinets of two built-in desk--same deal, a wall switch that controls an outlet.  I lined the inside of my safe with the tape and have it on a magnetic alarm switch (so when you open the door they turn on.)  The stuff is awesome and super cheap.

There's a lot of folks that are now putting it under the countertop lip, or under toe kicks as accent lighting or for drawers and such.  The overhead spots are usually used for the countertops, so it lights up the drawers or floor where those spots are shadowed.

http://ledlightshack.com/
Not sure if it still works, but coupon code SAVENOW 

rolltidesmoker

Hey @RedSkip,  Our microwave is over the inwall oven. The trim piece hadn't arrived when we took the other pics.  I think the cost was around 300 with 6 lights and 4 transformers

Little Steven

Dunno if this has been said but you want to get warm white or soft white led. The bright white are pretty harsh. I just changed the halogen I had out. Just cheap HD stuff but you can only see the downcast. I would show pics but the wiring job is kinda rough.

krobertsmsn

I have halogen lights and love the "warm" or incandescent colored lighting as opposed to the cooler toned led. Mine are on a dimmer and I highly rec that feature. The halogens get hot however and I would not buy them. They were here when we purchased the house. The are the round type and the lenses pop off when hot. I quit putting them back on and you cant tell. Maybe there is a "warm" tone vs "cool" tone option you could decide between in the led. 

All of the kitchens posted here today are beautiful. I have a big hood (dacor) over my gas range and love it. It will hold a magazine up it is so powerful. My smallish microwave is on the countertop. I'm too lazy to take a pic and post it at the moment (under the weather).

Love the Elfa pantry as well @Lit. The lighting and paint color are very nice. I just ordered more yesterday  (30% off sale) to make 2 small closets into mini pantrys to hold my stuff. I already have the Elfa system in 3 other pantrys/closets.

Botch

Jupiter Jim said:
I recommend that you put the LED driver and high voltage connections inside of an approved electrical box. In case of any overheating and possible shorts in high voltage wiring it contains it and helps prevent electrical fires. In fact that is the only reason the National Electrical Code requires boxes. I have seen those drivers get very hot and burn up.

I did not know this; thanks!  

Little Steven

Jupiter Jim said:

Sea2Ski said:

Literally just finished the kitchen refresh- same cabnits and appliances, but new countertops and lighting. Heck, top pic you can see the calk gun I used tonight.... not crazy about the mosaic - I think it was too big, but she likes it so...... now I only have to get the pulls refinished.  
But I digress.....



Under cabnit lighting - did myself. Easy. Here is a closeup and how it works:

How it ties in: Line voltage to a small transformer (blue toothpick put in front for scale) : 

Connect the output lines to low voltage 16g wire which fits into a track.  Then push the led lights in where you want. They self-pierce the wire and that is how they get power. You can put as many or few as you want. I did it all in one afternoon. For the below picture, the counter is 5 feet long and I used 4 lights:

Any questions? Ask away. 

Sea2Ski nice looking work, I recommend that you put the LED driver and high voltage connections inside of an approved electrical box. In case of any overheating and possible shorts in high voltage wiring it contains it and helps prevent electrical fires. In fact that is the only reason the National Electrical Code requires boxes. I have seen those drivers get very hot and burn up.

Soooo picky. Maybe suggest he should have some covers on the receptacles too.

Eggcelsior

Little Steven said:

Jupiter Jim said:

Sea2Ski said:

Literally just finished the kitchen refresh- same cabnits and appliances, but new countertops and lighting. Heck, top pic you can see the calk gun I used tonight.... not crazy about the mosaic - I think it was too big, but she likes it so...... now I only have to get the pulls refinished.  
But I digress.....



Under cabnit lighting - did myself. Easy. Here is a closeup and how it works:

How it ties in: Line voltage to a small transformer (blue toothpick put in front for scale) : 

Connect the output lines to low voltage 16g wire which fits into a track.  Then push the led lights in where you want. They self-pierce the wire and that is how they get power. You can put as many or few as you want. I did it all in one afternoon. For the below picture, the counter is 5 feet long and I used 4 lights:

Any questions? Ask away. 

Sea2Ski nice looking work, I recommend that you put the LED driver and high voltage connections inside of an approved electrical box. In case of any overheating and possible shorts in high voltage wiring it contains it and helps prevent electrical fires. In fact that is the only reason the National Electrical Code requires boxes. I have seen those drivers get very hot and burn up.

Soooo picky. Maybe suggest he should have some covers on the receptacles too.

This is why Estebanito gets paid those big Canuck bucks.

Little Steven

Eggcelsior said:

Little Steven said:

Jupiter Jim said:

Sea2Ski said:

Literally just finished the kitchen refresh- same cabnits and appliances, but new countertops and lighting. Heck, top pic you can see the calk gun I used tonight.... not crazy about the mosaic - I think it was too big, but she likes it so...... now I only have to get the pulls refinished.  
But I digress.....



Under cabnit lighting - did myself. Easy. Here is a closeup and how it works:

How it ties in: Line voltage to a small transformer (blue toothpick put in front for scale) : 

Connect the output lines to low voltage 16g wire which fits into a track.  Then push the led lights in where you want. They self-pierce the wire and that is how they get power. You can put as many or few as you want. I did it all in one afternoon. For the below picture, the counter is 5 feet long and I used 4 lights:

Any questions? Ask away. 

Sea2Ski nice looking work, I recommend that you put the LED driver and high voltage connections inside of an approved electrical box. In case of any overheating and possible shorts in high voltage wiring it contains it and helps prevent electrical fires. In fact that is the only reason the National Electrical Code requires boxes. I have seen those drivers get very hot and burn up.

Soooo picky. Maybe suggest he should have some covers on the receptacles too.

This is why Estebanito gets paid those big Canuck bucks.

Don't know if you noticed but I can't post pics of mine. Shoemakers children go barefoot as they say

SkinnyV

Hardwired 3 sections all on the switch. I want to replace the G4 halogens with LED at some point but need to find bulbs that fit. The strips are from ikea and have worked great 4 years and counting.

northGAcock

Sea2Ski said:

A grand???   Wow.  Mine was somewhere about $200 if I recall properly. 

He is in Northwest Georgia.....they have to pay people mucho bucks to go there. 

Hotch

Sea2Ski said:

Literally just finished the kitchen refresh- same cabnits and appliances, but new countertops and lighting. Heck, top pic you can see the calk gun I used tonight.... not crazy about the mosaic - I think it was too big, but she likes it so...... now I only have to get the pulls refinished.  
But I digress.....



Under cabnit lighting - did myself. Easy. Here is a closeup and how it works:

How it ties in: Line voltage to a small transformer (blue toothpick put in front for scale) : 

Connect the output lines to low voltage 16g wire which fits into a track.  Then push the led lights in where you want. They self-pierce the wire and that is how they get power. You can put as many or few as you want. I did it all in one afternoon. For the below picture, the counter is 5 feet long and I used 4 lights:

Any questions? Ask away. 

@Sea2Ski I like the setup you installed. Shelly, my wife, has been on my back for the last year to get this done in our kitchen. Would you mind letting me know what the product is that you installed and where I could find it? I already have switched 120VAC above both sides of my upper cabinets.

Woody

Agree beautiful kitchens.

I am endeavoring to add a bar, base cabinet and wall cabinets in my basement.  Picked up the Cherry wood and plywood over Christmas and started the cut and build of the lower cabinet.

The upper cabinets will have lighting inside with glass shelves to display glassware I have collected from pubs throughtout Europe and a few other items.  Can said 5050 LEDs or other tape strip options be used inside the cabinet as well as under?
Thought for inside would be to install against back side of face frame.  What do you use to connect the strips from under the cabinet to the inside LEDs?

nolaegghead

Jupiter Jim said:

Sea2Ski said:

Literally just finished the kitchen refresh- same cabnits and appliances, but new countertops and lighting. Heck, top pic you can see the calk gun I used tonight.... not crazy about the mosaic - I think it was too big, but she likes it so...... now I only have to get the pulls refinished.  
But I digress.....



Under cabnit lighting - did myself. Easy. Here is a closeup and how it works:

How it ties in: Line voltage to a small transformer (blue toothpick put in front for scale) : 

Connect the output lines to low voltage 16g wire which fits into a track.  Then push the led lights in where you want. They self-pierce the wire and that is how they get power. You can put as many or few as you want. I did it all in one afternoon. For the below picture, the counter is 5 feet long and I used 4 lights:

Any questions? Ask away. 

Sea2Ski nice looking work, I recommend that you put the LED driver and high voltage connections inside of an approved electrical box. In case of any overheating and possible shorts in high voltage wiring it contains it and helps prevent electrical fires. In fact that is the only reason the National Electrical Code requires boxes. I have seen those drivers get very hot and burn up.

I was going through this and about to make the same comment.

YukonRon

did these, wired to a switch with a dimmer.

fruitguy

We got these puck lights from Costco.  We are using these until we get to redoing the kitchen.  Cheap and they have a remote or timer.  Works for now.
http://www.costco.com/6-LED-Puck-Lights-by-Capstone.product.100316845.html

Lit

fruitguy said:

We got these puck lights from Costco.  We are using these until we get to redoing the kitchen.  Cheap and they have a remote or timer.  Works for now.
http://www.costco.com/6-LED-Puck-Lights-by-Capstone.product.100316845.html

How long have you had them? I got these and really liked them except the batteries die even when you aren't using them. They worked great when I put them up then went to use them 2 weeks later and the batteries were dead in all of them and they hadn't been on since I installed them. 

fruitguy

They have been in a couple of months.  They are not on every night, but I know my wife puts them on.  Take them back, Costco is awesome on returns.

Lit

fruitguy said:

They have been in a couple of months.  They are not on every night, but I know my wife puts them on.  Take them back, Costco is awesome on returns.

I was planning on returning them but they are a pain to get off and half their sticky stays on the cabinet and I don't want to spend hours scraping this crap off. You can see what was left here and this was after using a putty knife.

Cm23

Lit said:

fruitguy said:

We got these puck lights from Costco.  We are using these until we get to redoing the kitchen.  Cheap and they have a remote or timer.  Works for now.
http://www.costco.com/6-LED-Puck-Lights-by-Capstone.product.100316845.html

How long have you had them? I got these and really liked them except the batteries die even when you aren't using them. They worked great when I put them up then went to use them 2 weeks later and the batteries were dead in all of them and they hadn't been on since I installed them. 

Similar story, but ours lasted a few months and now they are all out, hardly ever turned them on.

YukonRon

meant to post this one.

odie91

stlcharcoal said:

I have been using the LED light tape off eBay under my cabinets and microwave for 6 years now.  I just wired up a switch controlled outlet under the sink and plugged the power source into that.  $30 for the whole project.

I also have that tape mounted under the shelves and wall cabinets of two built-in desk--same deal, a wall switch that controls an outlet.  I lined the inside of my safe with the tape and have it on a magnetic alarm switch (so when you open the door they turn on.)  The stuff is awesome and super cheap.

There's a lot of folks that are now putting it under the countertop lip, or under toe kicks as accent lighting or for drawers and such.  The overhead spots are usually used for the countertops, so it lights up the drawers or floor where those spots are shadowed.

http://ledlightshack.com/
Not sure if it still works, but coupon code SAVENOW 

  Are you running yours with a dimmer?  I'm considering the cheapo route like you, but don't want lights making a weird noise and/or acting strangely on a dimmer switch...

Input from others is welcome too.  Go the brand name route, or Ebay?

Edit :  I've already run the low voltage wiring under my sink and through my walls (prior to installing backsplash -- so i'm specifically looking for input on such setup (as opposed to the quick and easy DIY hack 

Kelso

I bought, but have yet to install, some LED strip lighting from LIFX.  It is Alexa enabled so Im just installing it, plugging it in and will turn it on/off by giving Alexa demands, or through the LIFX app on my phone.  Simple.

caliking

These have worked well for a $20 solution.