Powder Coating

bhugg

Has anyone done or thought about sand blasting and powder coating the daisy wheel? It would obviously have to be a high heat paint but what are some pros and cons? 

Fred19Flintstone

You're perhaps over thinking it if you're trying to prevent rust.  It's cast iron so keep it seasoned and all will be well.  If your goal is changing it's color as a fashion statement, well I will be curious how it turns out.

Carolina Q

Home powder coating is baked on at 400°. No idea what happens if you later exceed that. Wipe some oil on it and store it inside the egg between uses and you'll be fine. 

Wolfpack

Or step up to a smoke wear cap and never look back

Eggcelsior

@Mickey sand-blasted his, if I recall.

Mickey

Eggcelsior said:

@Mickey sand-blasted his, if I recall.

Sand blasting works

Mickey

More sand blasting

YukonRon

High heat powder coating is usually at a metal temp of upwards of 700F for 30 mins or more.
For a daisy wheel not a great application due to moving and the abrasion of parts. Once the surface is comprimised, adhesion fails. It is better to get sandblasted and seasoned. Much less of time and money. Heck, just buy a second one for the costs you will incur on this project.

Tony_T

If grease build-up, just clean-burn by placing directly on the coal.

BilZol

When I was using my daisy wheels I would just spray them with cooking spray and put them in the egg while it was cooling down to keep it seasoned. Never had an issue. I did switch to Smokeware caps not long after so now I have three regular daisy wheels and a MM one just sitting around now....

bigbadben

KamadoJoe powder coats their top vents. 

NPHuskerFL

nolaegghead

My powder coated and well used dfmt:

nolaegghead

The above sits uncovered in the rain all year.  

HeavyG

nolaegghead said:

The above sits uncovered in the rain all year.  

Ditto for mine. No rust, no signs of abraded away coating.

blasting

I went back to the daisy wheel for a few cooks while the smokeware was being cleaned in the electrolysis tank. I really dislike the daisy wheel after using the smokeware cap.  

nolaegghead

blasting said:

I went back to the daisy wheel for a few cooks while the smokeware was being cleaned in the electrolysis tank. I really dislike the daisy wheel after using the smokeware cap.  

I like the smokeware too. I miss the nostalgia of the dfmt, and it makes me happy to use my kamado, or cook on someone else's egg.  Since I'm under a cover, I could go either way, advantages and disadvantages to both.

tgs2401

Wire brush and brillo it to get the rust off then coat with cooking oil and heat at 400 degrees for a couple of hours to re-season it.

YukonRon

HeavyG said:

nolaegghead said:

The above sits uncovered in the rain all year.  

Ditto for mine. No rust, no signs of abraded away coating.

You can build a powder coat to do whatever you want. High Temp PC is a bit tricky, and of course, a bit more expensive to use and prep for.
KUDOS, to KJ for their product. To those that own both the BGE and KJ, I am curious if the metal is exactly the same, I just don't know.
We actually had specs to build a powder coat with adhesion spec that could withstand a shotgun blast at a certain distance. It was for electrical junction boxes, years ago.
Most Webbers are PC as well, but do not have the function of a DW, and as you can see, or at least with mine, it will scratch or abrade.
Typically, in most facilities that do small single pieces of powder coating, they will use "stock" inventory. If they have the high heat specification and processes for durability for the pc as KJ, you are in luck.
Usually, those pc and processes are proprietary, and not sold anywhere else. If the shop does have access to it, even better.
Otherwise small orders usually are in 35 to 50 pound boxes at a relatively high cost and that cost, if they do not have it in their inventory, is passed on to the consumer.
There is a major difference to aftermarket PC and OEM. This is to which I commented on with regards to getting one powder coated.
OEMs purchase for thousands of items for a certain product and a certain spec process.
Refinisers in PC generally purchase one HH coating to do 100's of different projects using the same spec for all jobs, which will not have the same processes as OEM.
The major factor in long term durability is the substrate preparation. Fe, Zi or Cr phosphate pretreatment helps in the longevity of a PC. Most use either iron (low cost, good passivation) or Zinc ( higher cost, better). Not many use Cr, as the environmental safety conditions run at such a high cost, however it is the best of the three listed options for passivation and long term durability of the piece being powder coated.
By the time you have read this, you may have been able to get a new DW, likely at close to near the same cost as having yours bead blasted, chemically treated, and coated.
Who knows, there might be a shop somewhere, that is specifically set up for this, and could do it at a reasonable price.
The time to research that, I do not have, that is why I default to replacing.
I admit, I am lazy. I wil just get a replacement when it gets too ugly to use.

YukonRon

HeavyG said:

nolaegghead said:

The above sits uncovered in the rain all year.  

Ditto for mine. No rust, no signs of abraded away coating.

Big difference in spec processes and coatings between OEMs and aftermarket refinishing. Check out the previous comment I posted, should you want. It is long and boring, but provides a (believe it or not) brief explanation of the differences, both practical  and economical.

BilZol

blasting said:

I went back to the daisy wheel for a few cooks while the smokeware was being cleaned in the electrolysis tank. I really dislike the daisy wheel after using the smokeware cap.  

Tell me more of this cleaning? Mine don't look bad, but the oven cleaner spray only does do much.