BGE Fire Grate - Stainless steel upgrade

TheHC72

The original fire grate cracked just after a few runs and since I got the impression that it might be a manufacture issue I simply took the decision to order a new one locally here in cold Sweden. The company who made it for me is called Roth's - https://www.facebook.com/rostfrigrill/

I was looking into other options, but am happy with the air flow of the original for my XL and do not want the burning charcoal falling down into the box. Hence why I opted for similar design, but in stainless steel, and its about 6 mm thick and weighs 22 pounds/10 kgs. 

The removables are just for creating some extra air flow higher up in the box or if I for any strange reason want to stack on one side as a divider.

Haven't had the chance to test run it yet, its being shipped at this moment and I recon to receive it tomorrow :-)

Toxarch

Looks good. The air flow tubes are interesting. Keep us informed on how it does.

YukonRon

I Like the idea of the multipurpose tubes, for air flow and lump divider. I could see how it could work. I would be interested if the heat profile would be effected with hot spots, and if it provides a more efficient cook requiring less lump, specifically regarding long low and slows.

paqman

The airflow is required to feed the burning lump; I don't see how the tubes could help if their end is above the lump level (which seems to be the case here).

piney

I don't see this as an improvement. I think you would need bigger holes to get more air flow I just don't think the tubes will be an asset at all... But, I have been wrong before (I think).

Shiff

I love my Hi-Q grate. Some pieces do fall through but they still burn fine and turn to ash.  The extra airflow really helps the BGE start. I used to use wiggle rod with the original grate but no longer need it.

SmokeyPitt

I think the tubes may help especially if the lump is filled above the tubes and you light from the top.  I would think that O2 would get sucked into the fire even if the fire is burning below the tubes.  I realize the draft generally flows upwards, but with cold air coming in through the tubes I would think there would be "currents" that suck the fire down.  Evidence of this theory is my gasket sucks and it takes a long time for my egg to shut down, so air is able to to get sucked from the gaps in my gasket down to the fire. 

chadpsualum

paqman said:

The airflow is required to feed the burning lump; I don't see how the tubes could help if their end is above the lump level (which seems to be the case here).

If they were perforated...to push air flow axially through the lump...then I could see a benefit.

Photo Egg

paqman said:

The airflow is required to feed the burning lump; I don't see how the tubes could help if their end is above the lump level (which seems to be the case here).

I agree. Seem like it would cause the lump to burn slower using the tubes as much less air would be vented through the lump. The tubes would work as a bypass or express way through the lump.

RRP

Before I bought a KAB last fall I used this steel one a friend had fabricated for me. The difference though with mine are the 3 legs welded so that the grate rests on the bottom of the base and stands slightly proud of the fire box so that it never rocked when stirred.

dougcrann

Mine cracked as well. For $40 more than what a BGE replacement will cost I am going to pick up 2 different 4'×8' sheets of expanded metal and make fire grates for both my XL's, the large, my Reverse Flow and upcoming Offset build. No reason to use stainless. Have,had a mild steel grate in my Reverse Flow, have had some blazing hot fires with 0 issues...

fishlessman

dougcrann said:

Mine cracked as well. For $40 more than what a BGE replacement will cost I am going to pick up 2 different 4'×8' sheets of expanded metal and make fire grates for both my XL's, the large, my Reverse Flow and upcoming Offset build. No reason to use stainless. Have,had a mild steel grate in my Reverse Flow, have had some blazing hot fires with 0 issues...

the cs doesnt work well in the egg, way hotter temps than the offset puts out. i ended up making an inconel grate similar to the op's

Slabotnick

I recently bought the kickash basket and it's really nice. Great airflow and easy to clean out any small pieces that could clog airflow. http://www.kickashbasket.com

YukonRon

I switched to the KAB in both my BGE's. Wish I had done it much sooner.

1move

Cool, curious to see what happens and if it cracks the egg. The expansion coefficient is much higher on SS than CI. Hopefully you at least beveld the edges

ScottNC

Nice, stainless in my opinion is always a good thing! Let us know how it works out. Being SS I bet it was more than a couple Krona's.

Carolina Q

Surprisingly, my OEM grate is still in one piece. After 6+ years. Split open and a bit twisted, but it still works. I'm planning to replace it with a Weber Smokey Joe charcoal grate when the time comes. Essentially, the same as the High-Que, but in mild steel instead of stainless. Probably won't last as long, but it sure seems to last forever in the Weber. Anyway, it costs $6-8 so worth a shot.

TheHC72

Carolina Q said:

Surprisingly, my OEM grate is still in one piece. After 6+ years. Split open and a bit twisted, but it still works. I'm planning to replace it with a Weber Smokey Joe charcoal grate when the time comes. Essentially, the same as the High-Que, but in mild steel instead of stainless. Probably won't last as long, but it sure seems to last forever in the Weber. Anyway, it costs $6-8 so worth a shot.

Apparently the last batch of grates for XL has some quality issue, heard from more than a few that theirs cracked including the OEM replacements. Hence why I opted for a personal solution and waiting for quality controlled new batch. 

TheHC72

ScottNC said:

Nice, stainless in my opinion is always a good thing! Let us know how it works out. Being SS I bet it was more than a couple Krona's.

Well... not cheap, about USD 125 plus freight.

TheHC72

1move said:

Cool, curious to see what happens and if it cracks the egg. The expansion coefficient is much higher on SS than CI. Hopefully you at least beveld the edges

Will keep an eye on it and usually don't run it too high temperatures.

TheHC72

SmokeyPitt said:

I think the tubes may help especially if the lump is filled above the tubes and you light from the top.  I would think that O2 would get sucked into the fire even if the fire is burning below the tubes.  I realize the draft generally flows upwards, but with cold air coming in through the tubes I would think there would be "currents" that suck the fire down.  Evidence of this theory is my gasket sucks and it takes a long time for my egg to shut down, so air is able to to get sucked from the gaps in my gasket down to the fire. 

The manufacturer already have a line of firestarter/chimneys, see link above and there's a video on their FB site. Hence why I decided to try it out to boost the airflow.

But at the same opted for removable if it doesn't work... or just use them as dividers

TheHC72

chadpsualum said:

paqman said:

The airflow is required to feed the burning lump; I don't see how the tubes could help if their end is above the lump level (which seems to be the case here).

If they were perforated...to push air flow axially through the lump...then I could see a benefit.

Perforated... version 2.0

TheHC72

Shiff said:

I love my Hi-Q grate. Some pieces do fall through but they still burn fine and turn to ash.  The extra airflow really helps the BGE start. I used to use wiggle rod with the original grate but no longer need it.

I used the Hi-Q for my BGE medium and worked well for higher temperature. But when running low & slow I could run for +38 hrs on one batch of coals with the OEM grates. The Hi-Q not more than 24 hrs and irratic temperature. 

TheHC72

YukonRon said:

I Like the idea of the multipurpose tubes, for air flow and lump divider. I could see how it could work. I would be interested if the heat profile would be effected with hot spots, and if it provides a more efficient cook requiring less lump, specifically regarding long low and slows.

Will do some testruns and keep you posted...

danv23

This is what I did for my XL.  2 weber grates and 4 bolts, washers, nuts.  Done.