Challenger Designs Grill Cart- Problem

blasting

I like the granite tile "trivet" idea.  You can pick the tile color and size and then take it in to a company who edges tiles.  The one I use here in PHX would charge about 12$ to round over and polish all four edges.  This way, it looks like you've always intended to have it there.  Check with any tile supply house and they can point you in the right direction.

I think I mentioned earlier, there is no way I'd accept a powder coated surface for a work area.  I would not entertain the idea of re-doing it as is.  Full new granite, tile, stainless, concrete, or even corian would be an option if you don't like the trivet idea.  

Best of luck, please let us know what you end up with.

Begger

Take 'em up on the new table top.   KEEP the old one, strip it down and have it Recoated with something perhaps more durable.   KEEP it as a spare.   When the 'new' table top sustains some damage, swap 'em back again.

I can't believe that Powdercoat is that fragile.  It is put on all sorts of stuff which is subject to more than just a little bug spray.  

I agree, for a 1500$ table, it should be somewhat more durable.  

nolaegghead

Powder coating is a process, like spraying paint is a process.  There are many chemistries available that result in a finish that run the gamut from mild to durable chemical and physical resistance.  Get an epoxy based finish with a UV top coat if you want the ultimate chemical resistance.  Better yet, a different base material than steel.

pgprescott

The carts are all aluminum with stainless hardware. I have a stainless prep table that I have marked up because I put a hot pizza stone on a trivet and it was still too close. Made a mark shadowing the stone outline. It happens. 

thebbb

I have seen what happens to the complete interior of a car when left on the back seat in hot weather...totally destroyed everything when it blew up including the tint on the windows.

Begger

nolaegghead said:

Powder coating is a process, like spraying paint is a process.  There are many chemistries available that result in a finish that run the gamut from mild to durable chemical and physical resistance.  Get an epoxy based finish with a UV top coat if you want the ultimate chemical resistance.  Better yet, a different base material than steel.

I've even seen Hi-Temp Powder Coatings suitable for an Exhaust Manifold on an auto.    I'll bet a good Powder Coating service could provide something which will be immune to such weird chemistry.

As a fall back position, use SoapStone.    I don't know of ANYTHING offhand that will ding THAT stuff.   It's used (or was, anyway) used for tables in Chem Labs due to that property.

But what's wrong with steel?   If one of the 300 or 400 series Stainless, rust will be an absolute MINIMAL problem while temp resistance is still good.

Aluminum?   It's not under the kind of mechanical stresses that make aluminum so weird for me, personally.    

Zmokin

DEET is nasty stuff.  it dissolves certain hard plastics upon contact.  It's the best for repelling mosquitoes, but it's a hazard to very many other things.

Begger

No WONDER mosquitoes won't get near it!    I never KNEW it was THAT nasty.
And to think, I've got and used Deep Woods OFF from WAY BACK when it was new to market.   

Terrebandit

Wow.. That's amazing. 

Zmokin

98% Deet is the only thing I use when I go backpacking.  No messing around with the diluted stuff.

Sawyer Jungle Juice

• Protects exposed skin areas against mosquitoes, chiggers, fleas, gnats and ticks
• A little goes a long way so use sparingly—only 4 - 6 drops per application
• Can be applied to shoes, socks and clothing for extra protection against chiggers and ticks; DEET should not damage cotton, wool or nylon
• Do not apply to or near acetate, rayon, spandex or other synthetics; keep away from furniture, plastic, watch crystals, leather and painted or varnished surfaces
• Contains Maxi-DEET® formula of 98.11% DEET with 1.89% other ingredients

theyolksonyou

Never mind, it's just too easy.  

Monty77

Sorry to here about this, as an owner of a cart myself I feel for you.  I personally do not use or recommend the use of bug sprays.  I will say that my islands finish has been subjected to hot plate setters, hot grills, acetone spills while removing my gaskets, alcohol, ashes & sparks, hot gloves, and my loof lighter.  It still looks as new as the day I bought it.  Maybe I've been lucky, or maybe bug spray is just that bad...?  

YukonRon

Powder coat curing is time vs heat, usually around 400F+. Several types of metal are given high heat purge times prior to substrate prep.
Occasionally, for whatever reason, some of the metal does not reach required temp for cure, and obviously, due to the chemistry, the cross linking is incomplete, and although the finish appears fine, it is under cured, resulting in many of the issues mentioned previously. 
Powder coat can be built to meet just about any need. Solvent resistance is one of the most difficult to build, but can be done for most.
Hammered finishes are typically a TGIC (triglycedadalisocyanurate for those that care), normally a pretty tough and durable coating. But it must have heat at a specific amount of time.
TGICs are both decorative and functional. They do a very good job protecting the substrate. Aluminum will corrode, some worse than others, depending on the alloy mix. Just ask Ford owners of vehicles with aluminum panels from about 2002ish to 2014.
One way to determine curing, for powder coating on most chemistries, is an alcohol rub test. Rubbing alcohol on a medical quality cotton swab (Q tip on a wooden shaft), rubbing it on the surface for 20 swipes (forward and reverse direction over same area), will tell you pretty quick. Look for swelling, paint removal, or surface abrasions.
Sorry for your situation. 

Tspud1

Jeepster47 said:

Okay, one more off-the-wall idea. How about contacting @tspud1 about making a stainless steel top.  Might be able to have one made locally, but Tim makes stainless steel egg carts ... as a side to his restaurant stuff.  He might be interested in doing a one off to gain experience in making/selling replacements for others who have damaged paint.  That would give you a no-worry working surface.

Tim's used to shipping stuff - some of his stuff is in Alaska - so where ever you live he can handle the shipping.  He's in the St. Louis area.

Message me the size and I can get you a quote. How is the top attached to the table, pop rivets?

DMW

YukonRon said:

Powder coat curing is time vs heat, usually around 400F+. Several types of metal are given high heat purge times prior to substrate prep.
Occasionally, for whatever reason, some of the metal does not reach required temp for cure, and obviously, due to the chemistry, the cross linking is incomplete, and although the finish appears fine, it is under cured, resulting in many of the issues mentioned previously. 
Powder coat can be built to meet just about any need. Solvent resistance is one of the most difficult to build, but can be done for most.
Hammered finishes are typically a TGIC (triglycedadalisocyanurate for those that care), normally a pretty tough and durable coating. But it must have heat at a specific amount of time.
TGICs are both decorative and functional. They do a very good job protecting the substrate. Aluminum will corrode, some worse than others, depending on the alloy mix. Just ask Ford owners of vehicles with aluminum panels from about 2002ish to 2014.
One way to determine curing, for powder coating on most chemistries, is an alcohol rub test. Rubbing alcohol on a medical quality cotton swab (Q tip on a wooden shaft), rubbing it on the surface for 20 swipes (forward and reverse direction over same area), will tell you pretty quick. Look for swelling, paint removal, or surface abrasions.
Sorry for your situation. 

Wow, lots of big words there.

Tspud1

He didn't have a problem but he did cover up the top on this table

Caymanite

Tspud1 said:

He didn't have a problem but he did cover up the top on this table

That table is beautiful! One of yours?

ColAngus

So I just got the replacement top over the weekend. I'm a little worried because there are no predrilled holes for screws or assembly instructions.

I'm a complete moron when it comes to manly things that requires tools. I can research something online and I can build a website like no other (I can drink a ton of beer too and eat until I fall asleep); but a handyman I ain't.

I emailed my Challenger contact for some help.

I pray to god he doesn't tell me I have to use some riveter or something that requires industrial grade equipment, because I'll be screwed (no pun intended). 

Tspud1

Caymanite said:

Tspud1 said:

He didn't have a problem but he did cover up the top on this table

That table is beautiful! One of yours?

Table is, granite added by end user

ColAngus

Just wanted to update everyone (totally forgot about this thread)...

I was able to replace the top... I was a little worried that it was above my technical skills since I'm clueless when it comes to power tools and assembly.

I removed the dome and used the heavy pot lifter (with the wife) to get the BGE out of the grill cart.

I then swapped out the top with the new one... It wasn't perfect as two screws were left. The new top was slightly different than the factory one. But you can't really tell unless you pull the top at the corner (it's a little loose).

Lesson learned- don't put anything on the grill cart except for plates. Don't put anything hot on it, as the powder coat will melt. 

Tspud1

ColAngus said:

Just wanted to update everyone (totally forgot about this thread)...

I was able to replace the top... I was a little worried that it was above my technical skills since I'm clueless when it comes to power tools and assembly.

I removed the dome and used the heavy pot lifter (with the wife) to get the BGE out of the grill cart.

I then swapped out the top with the new one... It wasn't perfect as two screws were left. The new top was slightly different than the factory one. But you can't really tell unless you pull the top at the corner (it's a little loose).

Lesson learned- don't put anything on the grill cart except for plates. Don't put anything hot on it, as the powder coat will melt. 

The new top wasnt a factory one?

NPHuskerFL

Tspud1 said:

ColAngus said:

Just wanted to update everyone (totally forgot about this thread)...

I was able to replace the top... I was a little worried that it was above my technical skills since I'm clueless when it comes to power tools and assembly.

I removed the dome and used the heavy pot lifter (with the wife) to get the BGE out of the grill cart.

I then swapped out the top with the new one... It wasn't perfect as two screws were left. The new top was slightly different than the factory one. But you can't really tell unless you pull the top at the corner (it's a little loose).

Lesson learned- don't put anything on the grill cart except for plates. Don't put anything hot on it, as the powder coat will melt. 

The new top wasnt a factory one?

Maybe a "retrofit"?  

NPHuskerFL

Can't put hot stuff on the table top?  Is that per manufacturer or just precautionary?

ColAngus

Tspud1 said:

The new top wasnt a factory one?

I think Challenger slightly changed the assembly. While the top looked exactly the same, the bottom was a little different. 

It's kinda hard to explain w/out pics, but the original top had a small piece of metal/bar attached to it, for 2 additional screws. 

It also had adhesive, which I didn't replace (since I have no idea exact what to use).

You couldn't tell just looking at it; but it's not as snug as the original.

ColAngus

NPHuskerFL said:

Can't put hot stuff on the table top?  Is that per manufacturer or just precautionary?

According to their warranty/cleaning and care instructions:

Do not place hot items directly on any part of the cart surface. Damage created by hot items can be minimized by cleaning and buffing, but will typically never be eliminated. This type of damage will not be covered under warranty.

Jeepster47

Not sure it's the final solution, but here's my present cheap "fix". 

Bought an 18"X18" floor tile from Lowes for about $2.50.  Glued some left over floor matting to the four corners ... didn't work.  The main problem was lack of airspace between the top and the tile ... heat.  Bought four rubber bottle stoppers from Ace (don't know the size, but they were $1.70 apiece) and glued them to the bottom four corners.  Lot's of airspace now.  Large trivet for about $10 isn't too bad.  Plan on trying a 24"x24" tile next time I see one.