OT...Polyurathane Interior doors

bcsnave

Anyone have good advice on how to get a nice smooth, even finish on interior oak doors?

QDude

What is your plan for applying it? Brush or spray?

bcsnave

that's what I am wanting to know. Probably white china brush..then maybe steel wool and second coat

UrbanForestTurnings

If it's water based DONT use steel wool

JWF

@bcsnave Very light coats brushing with the grain in long strokes.  Gently sandpaper, fine grit (1,000) in between coats. Don't be afraid to do more than 2 coats. 

DoubleEgger

Gel stain? 

henapple

I wouldn't and no waterborne. Varnish is an option. Easier to work with imho. 
Try a trial run on the hinge side to make sure you're gonna get what you want. 
Let the first coat dry overnight. 
As stated, light coats being sure to look down the surface for holidays. 
Constantly look back and check for runs or high builds while the product is wet.
lightly sand with 220 being sure to see white dust. If not,wait.
Dust and wipe with a damp thinner rag.
Second coat.
Buff with steel wool, dust and clean.
Third coat.

A soft wire brush works well in grooves like on a colonial style door. 
Use lacquer thinner to clean your brush..well.
Clean your brush well.
Clean your brush well.

fishlessman

i did mine flat years ago with a minwax spar poly, used a brush, light coats and light sanding. work from the wet edge stroking away from it, not stroking into the wet edge. prefer a satin over a gloss finish for looks and ease, the spar poly was easily scratched for 6 months before getting fully hard, probably would use regular poly if my house didnt get so much sunlight reflecting off the lake

SouthGaSmoker

if you want to get a very smooth finish, apply a matching coat of wood filler to fill the grains of the oak.  Sand smooth and then apply your poly.  When it's done correctly no one will be able to tell you used the wood filler.

http://www.woodmagazine.com/materials-guide/finishes/filling-grain-for-perfect-finishing/

nolaegghead

Spar is the equivalent of the paint you put on the flexible plastic bumper covers on cars.  It has a higher content of oil and other softeners so it can flex as the temp and humidity changes.  For spar paints, it's designed that way to protect the wood from cracks in the paint that allow moisture intrusion, and it has a "sun screen" to protect from UV radiation.  Not appropriate as a finish for floors, or tables. 

fishlessman

nolaegghead said:

Spar is the equivalent of the paint you put on the flexible plastic bumper covers on cars.  It has a higher content of oil and other softeners so it can flex as the temp and humidity changes.  For spar paints, it's designed that way to protect the wood from cracks in the paint that allow moisture intrusion, and it has a "sun screen" to protect from UV radiation.  Not appropriate as a finish for floors, or tables. 

it does lay out nice on doors though