Welcome to the EGGhead Forum - a great place to visit and packed with tips and EGGspert advice! You can also join the conversation and get more information and amazing kamado recipes by following Big Green Egg to Experience our World of Flavor™ at:
Facebook  |  Twitter  |  Instagram  |  Pinterest  |  Youtube  |  Vimeo
Share your photos by tagging us and using the hashtag #BigGreenEgg.

Want to see how the EGG is made? Click to Watch

OT...Polyurathane Interior doors

Options
bcsnave
bcsnave Posts: 1,009
in Off Topic
Anyone have good advice on how to get a nice smooth, even finish on interior oak doors?

The Dude..a Mini and a Large Egg..a DigiQ DX (BGE Green)..some Cast Iron...a Thermapen.............and an Ol' Fashion

_____________________________________________________________________________

Glenbeulah, WI

· Share on FacebookShare on Twitter

Comments

  • QDude
    QDude Posts: 1,052
    Options
    What is your plan for applying it? Brush or spray?

    Northern Colorado Egghead since 2012.

    XL BGE and a KBQ.

    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • bcsnave
    bcsnave Posts: 1,009
    Options

    that's what I am wanting to know. Probably white china brush..then maybe steel wool and second coat


    The Dude..a Mini and a Large Egg..a DigiQ DX (BGE Green)..some Cast Iron...a Thermapen.............and an Ol' Fashion

    _____________________________________________________________________________

    Glenbeulah, WI

    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • UrbanForestTurnings
    UrbanForestTurnings Posts: 1,294
    Options
    If it's water based DONT use steel wool
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • JWF
    JWF Posts: 26
    Options
    @bcsnave Very light coats brushing with the grain in long strokes.  Gently sandpaper, fine grit (1,000) in between coats. Don't be afraid to do more than 2 coats. 
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • DoubleEgger
    DoubleEgger Posts: 17,188
    Options
    Gel stain? 
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • henapple
    henapple Posts: 16,025
    Options
    I wouldn't and no waterborne. Varnish is an option. Easier to work with imho. 
    Try a trial run on the hinge side to make sure you're gonna get what you want. 
    Let the first coat dry overnight. 
    As stated, light coats being sure to look down the surface for holidays. 
    Constantly look back and check for runs or high builds while the product is wet.
    lightly sand with 220 being sure to see white dust. If not,wait.
    Dust and wipe with a damp thinner rag.
    Second coat.
    Buff with steel wool, dust and clean.
    Third coat.

    A soft wire brush works well in grooves like on a colonial style door. 
    Use lacquer thinner to clean your brush..well.
    Clean your brush well.
    Clean your brush well.
    Green egg, dead animal and alcohol. The "Boro".. TN 
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • fishlessman
    fishlessman Posts: 32,776
    Options
    i did mine flat years ago with a minwax spar poly, used a brush, light coats and light sanding. work from the wet edge stroking away from it, not stroking into the wet edge. prefer a satin over a gloss finish for looks and ease, the spar poly was easily scratched for 6 months before getting fully hard, probably would use regular poly if my house didnt get so much sunlight reflecting off the lake
    fukahwee maine

    you can lead a fish to water but you can not make him drink it
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • SouthGaSmoker
    SouthGaSmoker Posts: 98
    edited March 2015
    Options
    if you want to get a very smooth finish, apply a matching coat of wood filler to fill the grains of the oak.  Sand smooth and then apply your poly.  When it's done correctly no one will be able to tell you used the wood filler.

    http://www.woodmagazine.com/materials-guide/finishes/filling-grain-for-perfect-finishing/



    St. Mary's, GA
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • nolaegghead
    nolaegghead Posts: 42,102
    Options
    Spar is the equivalent of the paint you put on the flexible plastic bumper covers on cars.  It has a higher content of oil and other softeners so it can flex as the temp and humidity changes.  For spar paints, it's designed that way to protect the wood from cracks in the paint that allow moisture intrusion, and it has a "sun screen" to protect from UV radiation.  Not appropriate as a finish for floors, or tables. 
    ______________________________________________
    I love lamp..
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • fishlessman
    fishlessman Posts: 32,776
    Options
    nolaegghead said:
    Spar is the equivalent of the paint you put on the flexible plastic bumper covers on cars.  It has a higher content of oil and other softeners so it can flex as the temp and humidity changes.  For spar paints, it's designed that way to protect the wood from cracks in the paint that allow moisture intrusion, and it has a "sun screen" to protect from UV radiation.  Not appropriate as a finish for floors, or tables. 
    it does lay out nice on doors though
    fukahwee maine

    you can lead a fish to water but you can not make him drink it
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter

Categories