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Permanent ground “foundation”

Powak
Powak Posts: 1,412
I’ve got my large egg in it’s nest in my yard. I’ve live in New England and got no intentions of putting it on my deck or a installing a concrete slab but am looking for another solution to keep it from A) sinking into the ground and B) moving with the frost yearly. I was wondering if anyone has a recipe of how much crushed rock, sand and how deep to go into the ground for make a solid spot for the egg to sit year round?

Comments

  • alaskanassasin
    alaskanassasin Posts: 8,898
    You can start by saving your RockWoods!
    South of Columbus, Ohio.


  • alaskanassasin
    alaskanassasin Posts: 8,898
    I would go about 6”, pack in 4” of stone, a bag of sand or two to level then 4 16” square pavers 
    South of Columbus, Ohio.


  • PigBeanUs
    PigBeanUs Posts: 932
    I would go about 6”, pack in 4” of stone, a bag of sand or two to level then 4 16” square pavers 
    This

    in new england you either defeat frost by going down three or four feet, or you do an end-around by keeping the water from getting under it. 

    You don’t want to put in a four foot foundation for a grill. So ride it out on top

    The crushed rock and sand will be perfect support for the pavers. 
  • fishlessman
    fishlessman Posts: 34,568
    mine sits on the ground in maine in the mud, a 15 inch circle of stainless plate and the three feet. but the above post would be better with a nest
    fukahwee maine

    you can lead a fish to water but you can not make him drink it
  • Gulfcoastguy
    Gulfcoastguy Posts: 7,323
    Be sure to rent a vibratory tamper and keep the crushed limestone wet while packing it. We did all of the brick paver walk ways at a public rest area that way. 
  • northGAcock
    northGAcock Posts: 15,173
    Hardscaping bricks are easy to install. If you did not want to lay a pad with them, i would think you could at a minimum put one under each wheel. You will want a hard packed base with maybe a little quick set under it to firm it up.
    Ellijay GA with a Medium & MiniMax

    Well, I married me a wife, she's been trouble all my life,
    Run me out in the cold rain and snow
  • Skiddymarker
    Skiddymarker Posts: 8,528
    When living in eastern Ontario, my BBQ (not an egg) sat on four 2'X2' patio stones. Threw a bag of kids play sand under them to level and all was good for at least a couple of years. When the frost heaved one or two, I rolled the grill onto the lawn and levelled with some more sand. Easy and worked just fine. 
    Delta B.C. - Whiskey and steak, because no good story ever started with someone having a salad!
  • Kayak
    Kayak Posts: 700
    edited March 2021
    I bought something at, I think, HD, that was a plastic pad that went under pavers. I put a PT frame on the ground and laid the pad inside that. Then 12x18 pavers in a bricklaid pattern. It will 'float' on the surface, and frost won't move it. I did put down gravel under it.

    Bob

    New Cumberland, PA
    XL with the usual accessories

  • HeavyG
    HeavyG Posts: 10,380
    A sheet of ground contact rated plywood - $60.
    Lay concrete stepping stones on top - 12 of 12 in. x 12 in. x 1.5 in. Pewter Square Concrete Step Stone @ $1.68ea
    For less than a Benjamin you have a surface that should rise/fall evenly if there is any heaving action.

    “Reality is that which, when you stop believing in it, doesn't go away.” ― Philip K. Diçk




  • caliking
    caliking Posts: 19,780
    All I have to add to this is that Lowes has 24" x 24" pavers around here, but HD doesn't. 

    #1 LBGE December 2012 • #2 SBGE February  2013 • #3 Mini May 2013
    A happy BGE family in Houston, TX.
  • Powak
    Powak Posts: 1,412
    HeavyG said:
    A sheet of ground contact rated plywood - $60.
    Lay concrete stepping stones on top - 12 of 12 in. x 12 in. x 1.5 in. Pewter Square Concrete Step Stone @ $1.68ea
    For less than a Benjamin you have a surface that should rise/fall evenly if there is any heaving action.

    Man that sounds good too. Do you cover the length of the plywood with the stones or cut it down to 4x4’ size and double stack the stones?
  • PigBeanUs
    PigBeanUs Posts: 932
    edited March 2021
    Keep in mind that even ground-contact rated pressure treated wood shouldn’t be (wait for it) in direct contact with the ground (or even with concrete). Needs a barrier. Polyethylene sheet etc. (bc: otherwise the PT can wick out of the wood leaving you with crappy pine in direct contact with the ground. This is also why you are supposed to paint or stain the stuff after the outer surface dries, when it is exposed, like a porch).

    I would stay away from plywood for a couple reasons anyway. 

    Any heaving under any one spot will telegraph across the whole area. With brick or pavers, it’s localized and easier to fix. Better to take up one paver and tamp down the stone and sand (or fill it), than to have to take off all pavers from the 4x4 or 4x8 area in order to lift the plywood

    There’s also potential for sliding. Brick or pavers on wood?

    Water. The whole idea behind paving stones on sand (or stone dust) and further on gravel and crushed rock is that rain goes right through. On plywood it will get between the joints and sit between the pavers. When it freezes, they will push apart

    there’s a reason no one uses plywood under paving stones for any long term landscaping project in the northeast. 

    There is no need to improvise and reinvent 

    dig down 8” or more. Crushed rock. Stone dust or gravel on that. Pavers tamped down

    Depending on how permanent you expect this to be, you may want edging to hold it in place. 

    There’s always movement, but you can minimize it with better prep and better edging alternatives




  • Kayak
    Kayak Posts: 700
    I've put in a lot of 'dry-laid' walk and patio, it's a lot of work. For my Egg platform, I bought this:

    PAVERBASE 20.04 in. x 36 in. Black Brock Paver Base Panel-PVB5B - The Home Depot

    I would never use a sheet of plywood as a base.

    Bob

    New Cumberland, PA
    XL with the usual accessories

  • Mark_B_Good
    Mark_B_Good Posts: 1,653
    I've got mine on dirt ground, but I dug 4" deep, filled with about 3.5" lime stone screen, leveled, and put in large 16" x 24" patio stones (about 2" thick) to form a deck.  The XL egg sits in the Acacia table ... nothing moved over this winter. The trick I guess is to have enough screen under the pavers that water drains nicely.
    Napoleon Prestige Pro 665, XL BGE, Lots of time for BBQ!
  • rekameohs
    rekameohs Posts: 264
    How 'bout an HVAC unit mounting pad?
    Raleigh, NC
  • HeavyG
    HeavyG Posts: 10,380
    PigBeanUs said:
    Keep in mind that even ground-contact rated pressure treated wood shouldn’t be (wait for it) in direct contact with the ground (or even with concrete). Needs a barrier. Polyethylene sheet etc. (bc: otherwise the PT can wick out of the wood leaving you with crappy pine in direct contact with the ground. This is also why you are supposed to paint or stain the stuff after the outer surface dries, when it is exposed, like a porch).

    I would stay away from plywood for a couple reasons anyway. 

    Any heaving under any one spot will telegraph across the whole area. With brick or pavers, it’s localized and easier to fix. Better to take up one paver and tamp down the stone and sand (or fill it), than to have to take off all pavers from the 4x4 or 4x8 area in order to lift the plywood

    There’s also potential for sliding. Brick or pavers on wood?

    Water. The whole idea behind paving stones on sand (or stone dust) and further on gravel and crushed rock is that rain goes right through. On plywood it will get between the joints and sit between the pavers. When it freezes, they will push apart

    there’s a reason no one uses plywood under paving stones for any long term landscaping project in the northeast. 

    There is no need to improvise and reinvent 

    dig down 8” or more. Crushed rock. Stone dust or gravel on that. Pavers tamped down

    Depending on how permanent you expect this to be, you may want edging to hold it in place. 

    There’s always movement, but you can minimize it with better prep and better edging alternatives





    When used as part of a permanent wood foundation the plywood definitely would need to be protected by a poly barrier. When used as a "base" for a short term project (2 years? 5 years? 10 years?) ground rated contact plywood will be just fine sans plastic.

    Those foot square concrete "pavers" probably aren't going to slide around. If that is a concern then use the 16" (or 18" or 24" which are the ones I most often use) square versions. They're heavier and the coefficient of friction between the rough concrete surface and the wood will prevent them from sliding around.

    Possibly fair point about the water freezing and spreading the stones apart but I can't see that the spaces between the concrete stones would allow the retention of but the thinnest film of water.

     I live in coastal Virginia and frost heave is just something I know from textbooks so I'll certainly defer to the wisdom/experience of folks that actually live in and have to deal with climes where frost heave is a real thing.

    What I do know is that I have used ground rated contact ply for a base for a couple of projects over the years. Most were short term (5 years-ish) but a couple are 20+ years old and doing just fine. My soil is mostly gummy gray clay and when I placed an 8 foot long metal firewood rack in order to keep it from eventually just sinking into the ground I used a half sheet of treated ply placed right on the soil and covered with concrete stones. Hasn't posed any problems in 20+ years.

    If someone knows that they have found THE SPOT for their grill then it probably is worth spending the time, effort, and $$ to do a more suitable permanent solution. If someone isn't yet certain they know the permanent place for their grill and is thinking they might want to try a few spots over the next few years then the ply/pavers is something that can be relocated/re-assembled in less than half an hour.
    “Reality is that which, when you stop believing in it, doesn't go away.” ― Philip K. Diçk




  • HeavyG
    HeavyG Posts: 10,380
    Powak said:
    HeavyG said:
    A sheet of ground contact rated plywood - $60.
    Lay concrete stepping stones on top - 12 of 12 in. x 12 in. x 1.5 in. Pewter Square Concrete Step Stone @ $1.68ea
    For less than a Benjamin you have a surface that should rise/fall evenly if there is any heaving action.

    Man that sounds good too. Do you cover the length of the plywood with the stones or cut it down to 4x4’ size and double stack the stones?

    I knew I rushed thru my reply. I meant to say 16 of the foot square stones (got 12x12 stuck in my head).

    For just a pad for one Egg just using half the sheet is large enough. Save the other half for later use or just go ahead and stack the two half sheets. I've done that in the past and when I've done that I put in a few screws to keep the ply sheets from sliding around each other while getting things in place.

    Good luck with your project. See my reply to PigBean - I have zero practical experience with frost heave so take that into account when deciding what to build.

    “Reality is that which, when you stop believing in it, doesn't go away.” ― Philip K. Diçk




  • PigBeanUs
    PigBeanUs Posts: 932
    The guy can do what he wants. 

    He’s in New England, as he mentioned. 

    So water between the joints is a concern with freezing. 


  • fishlessman
    fishlessman Posts: 34,568
    all i know is i have rocks, sand and patio blocks in the yard and mine just sits in the mud
    fukahwee maine

    you can lead a fish to water but you can not make him drink it
  • Powak
    Powak Posts: 1,412
    I would go about 6”, pack in 4” of stone, a bag of sand or two to level then 4 16” square pavers 
    This sounds like the way to go up here. Think I’m going to do this.
  • Kayak
    Kayak Posts: 700
    edited March 2021
    Here's mine from 2019. That's an XL:


    Bob

    New Cumberland, PA
    XL with the usual accessories

  • HeavyG
    HeavyG Posts: 10,380
    PigBeanUs said:
    ...

    So water between the joints is a concern with freezing. 



    Potentially, yes. Pragmatically (in this scenario), maybe not so much.
    “Reality is that which, when you stop believing in it, doesn't go away.” ― Philip K. Diçk




  • Mark_B_Good
    Mark_B_Good Posts: 1,653
    PigBeanUs said:
    The guy can do what he wants. 

    He’s in New England, as he mentioned. 

    So water between the joints is a concern with freezing. 


    Ehhh. I have a concrete stone base (8" x 4" stones) on my pizza oven outside, held together with only PL. Hasn't moved in 4 years, at all.  I think part of the trick is to leave the joints open, so the water drains ... even if it freezes, as long as it has a way to expand out of the joint, it will do that before it starts moving the stones.
    Napoleon Prestige Pro 665, XL BGE, Lots of time for BBQ!