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Table surfaces (Wood, granite, concrete etc.) need input for new build

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I am in the process of building my 4th table at the moment.  My first table was for my large egg, second was helping a friend for a medium egg, and my third was home to my large and minimax eggs.

Fewer mistakes with each one lol, and while this one might be a little over engineered to support the weight of two large Kamado's I haven't been able to make up my mind on the table top.

The first two had cedar planks which as they aged twisted and warped a little bit and naturally got pretty dirty.  The third table I laminated cedar 2x4's together to make a solid board which was nice at first but over time has started to separate at some of the seams and is also very dirty.

So as I near the end of construction on this new table I need to make a decision between:
  1. Live edge black walnut (wood).  pro - less seems, beautiful, seal the heck out of it.  Con - expensive AF, charcoal will make it dirty
  2. cheap and cheerful, laminate boards (wood) again but dress them properly with a jointer and thickness planner.  Con - might separate again, dirty 
  3. Granite.  Pro - beautiful, easy to clean.  Con - expensive, I am worried it might crack in the dead of winter being cold when I put something hot on it.
  4. Concrete - Cheaper than granite, can take the heat but still might crack around narrow spots at the front/rear of holes.  Never done it before so there's that as well.

Anyone with experience using granite or concrete would love to hear from you if these fears are misplaced or real things to be concerned with.  thanks 

Comments

  • caliking
    caliking Posts: 18,731
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     I'm going with 3cm granite for my table build. It's pricey, but YOLO 😀 

    I would have tried a concrete top if I had close to any idea how to make one. Didn't consider a wood top because I want to be able to set hot things on it. 

    #1 LBGE December 2012 • #2 SBGE February  2013 • #3 Mini May 2013
    A happy BGE family in Houston, TX.
  • BugFreak72
    Options
    I'm no pro but I'd worry about the granite outside. I recently went granite in the kitchen and was warned about how pourus it is. I have no clue how big a deal it is but after being warned about it indoors I wonder how bad it would be outside. 

    I'll be building a table for my medium soon and plan on a concrete top. Very low maintenance and seem pretty easy to build (I hope). There a couple good threads with step by step pics here on the forum for reference you could check out. 
  • Kent8621
    Kent8621 Posts: 843
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    i did a concrete top and i am very happy with it.  i have had it for 3 years-ish and it shows no signs of wear and tear.  it was fairly easy to do honestly, if you want tips or help i can send you some stuff of what i did and lessons learned.  i know alot of folks do the granite outdoor but if i do it again (if the wife approves the new layout at the new house) i will be doing concrete again no question.  

    2 Large Eggs - Raleigh, NC

    Boiler Up!!

  • caliking
    caliking Posts: 18,731
    Options
    @BugFreak72 @Kent8621could you post links to past concrete top builds you found? It would make this thread a handy reference.

    I didn't know that granite was that porous. Our kitchen granite hasn't been sealed or treated in any way for 10+ years and still looks the same as the day we moved in. Its also used to face buildings, walkways, etc. and seems to hold up well. 

    #1 LBGE December 2012 • #2 SBGE February  2013 • #3 Mini May 2013
    A happy BGE family in Houston, TX.
  • fishlessman
    fishlessman Posts: 32,741
    Options
    caliking said:
    @BugFreak72 @Kent8621could you post links to past concrete top builds you found? It would make this thread a handy reference.

    I didn't know that granite was that porous. Our kitchen granite hasn't been sealed or treated in any way for 10+ years and still looks the same as the day we moved in. Its also used to face buildings, walkways, etc. and seems to hold up well. 
    some granite is more porous than others,  i know my granite shower will stay wetter on the lower tiles longer and even with just a sponge for cleaning im seeing some wear on the bottom rows.
    fukahwee maine

    you can lead a fish to water but you can not make him drink it
  • littlerascal56
    Options
    I made one with beautiful Jade Green granite.  It did require sealing about every 6 weeks, or would grease stain.  It also got a lot darker (almost black) from exposure to hot sun, as customer didn’t have a covered awning or roof.
  • Mattman3969
    Mattman3969 Posts: 10,457
    edited October 2019
    Options
    So many stones are sold as a granite that are not actually true granite.  Do your research.  True granite is not an issue outside. Most issue with any kind of breakage is either structure or install related. 

    -----------------------------------------

    analyze adapt overcome

    2008 -Large BGE. 2013- Small BGE and 2015 - Mini. Henderson, Ky.
  • Mattman3969
    Mattman3969 Posts: 10,457
    edited October 2019
    Options
    caliking said:
    @BugFreak72 @Kent8621could you post links to past concrete top builds you found? It would make this thread a handy reference.

    I didn't know that granite was that porous. Our kitchen granite hasn't been sealed or treated in any way for 10+ years and still looks the same as the day we moved in. Its also used to face buildings, walkways, etc. and seems to hold up well. 
    some granite is more porous than others,  i know my granite shower will stay wetter on the lower tiles longer and even with just a sponge for cleaning im seeing some wear on the bottom rows.
    Fish it sounds like you might have a water barrier issue that might be letting water get behind the tiles and accumulating at floor level.  Could be a grout issue.  If you have access to the area/crawl space below you shower I would definitely check it for moisture.  

    Your comment about the sponge makes me think the tile is retaining moisture and slightly drying on the surface and doesn’t take much water to make it go dark again. Water retention will cause spalling on stones.   I’ve seen this before.  

    Sorry for the derail OP 

    -----------------------------------------

    analyze adapt overcome

    2008 -Large BGE. 2013- Small BGE and 2015 - Mini. Henderson, Ky.
  • nolaegghead
    nolaegghead Posts: 42,102
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    If I did it again I would make a concrete top.  Takes some work but cost is mostly your labor.  It will last forever.  will it crack?  definitely, but you should have enough rebar and mesh in it where it just adds character.
    ______________________________________________
    I love lamp..
  • HeavyG
    HeavyG Posts: 10,344
    Options
    Stainless steel is worth a look. Better in every way than the four materials you mentioned.
    @Tspud1 could likely make up something custom for a very fair price.


    “Reality is that which, when you stop believing in it, doesn't go away.” ― Philip K. Diçk




  • unoriginalusername
    Options
    HeavyG said:
    Stainless steel is worth a look. Better in every way than the four materials you mentioned.
    @Tspud1 could likely make up something custom for a very fair price.


    A friend has that and the glare and heat I don’t like as I am in a high sun spot 
  • caliking
    caliking Posts: 18,731
    Options
    HeavyG said:
    Stainless steel is worth a look. Better in every way than the four materials you mentioned.
    @Tspud1 could likely make up something custom for a very fair price.


    A friend has that and the glare and heat I don’t like as I am in a high sun spot 
    Ditto here in Houston. SS gets friggin’ hot in the sun here. 

    #1 LBGE December 2012 • #2 SBGE February  2013 • #3 Mini May 2013
    A happy BGE family in Houston, TX.
  • HeavyG
    HeavyG Posts: 10,344
    Options
    HeavyG said:
    Stainless steel is worth a look. Better in every way than the four materials you mentioned.
    @Tspud1 could likely make up something custom for a very fair price.


    A friend has that and the glare and heat I don’t like as I am in a high sun spot 
    That is true, on a bright sunny day they can blind your eyes and burn a bare arm mistakenly rested upon the surface. That's what a patio umbrella is for tho. Especially one where the table has the pole stand built in.
    “Reality is that which, when you stop believing in it, doesn't go away.” ― Philip K. Diçk




  • fishlessman
    fishlessman Posts: 32,741
    Options
    caliking said:
    @BugFreak72 @Kent8621could you post links to past concrete top builds you found? It would make this thread a handy reference.

    I didn't know that granite was that porous. Our kitchen granite hasn't been sealed or treated in any way for 10+ years and still looks the same as the day we moved in. Its also used to face buildings, walkways, etc. and seems to hold up well. 
    some granite is more porous than others,  i know my granite shower will stay wetter on the lower tiles longer and even with just a sponge for cleaning im seeing some wear on the bottom rows.
    Fish it sounds like you might have a water barrier issue that might be letting water get behind the tiles and accumulating at floor level.  Could be a grout issue.  If you have access to the area/crawl space below you shower I would definitely check it for moisture.  

    Your comment about the sponge makes me think the tile is retaining moisture and slightly drying on the surface and doesn’t take much water to make it go dark again. Water retention will cause spalling on stones.   I’ve seen this before.  

    Sorry for the derail OP 
    that seems to be whats happening and im not sure why. it is in the pan area thats heavy plastic, i put an aluminum drip barrier in top under the cement board and up behind it and over/ under the plastic pan and mudded it in good, then mudded the floor to drain better. floors fine but the 4 inch up the pan stays wet.  i dont see any grout problems

    httpsfinpancomwp-contentuploads201603finpan-preformed-5jpg

    fukahwee maine

    you can lead a fish to water but you can not make him drink it
  • speed51133
    Options
    what is your backer board material?
    XL BGE and Kamado Joe Jr.
  • Mattman3969
    Mattman3969 Posts: 10,457
    edited October 2019
    Options
    caliking said:
    @BugFreak72 @Kent8621could you post links to past concrete top builds you found? It would make this thread a handy reference.

    I didn't know that granite was that porous. Our kitchen granite hasn't been sealed or treated in any way for 10+ years and still looks the same as the day we moved in. Its also used to face buildings, walkways, etc. and seems to hold up well. 
    some granite is more porous than others,  i know my granite shower will stay wetter on the lower tiles longer and even with just a sponge for cleaning im seeing some wear on the bottom rows.
    Fish it sounds like you might have a water barrier issue that might be letting water get behind the tiles and accumulating at floor level.  Could be a grout issue.  If you have access to the area/crawl space below you shower I would definitely check it for moisture.  

    Your comment about the sponge makes me think the tile is retaining moisture and slightly drying on the surface and doesn’t take much water to make it go dark again. Water retention will cause spalling on stones.   I’ve seen this before.  

    Sorry for the derail OP 
    that seems to be whats happening and im not sure why. it is in the pan area thats heavy plastic, i put an aluminum drip barrier in top under the cement board and up behind it and over/ under the plastic pan and mudded it in good, then mudded the floor to drain better. floors fine but the 4 inch up the pan stays wet.  i dont see any grout problems

    httpsfinpancomwp-contentuploads201603finpan-preformed-5jpg

    Sometimes all it takes it a good quality grout sealer.  That’s where I’d start.    Did you install the floor tile first and then the walls?

    -----------------------------------------

    analyze adapt overcome

    2008 -Large BGE. 2013- Small BGE and 2015 - Mini. Henderson, Ky.
  • fishlessman
    fishlessman Posts: 32,741
    Options
    caliking said:
    @BugFreak72 @Kent8621could you post links to past concrete top builds you found? It would make this thread a handy reference.

    I didn't know that granite was that porous. Our kitchen granite hasn't been sealed or treated in any way for 10+ years and still looks the same as the day we moved in. Its also used to face buildings, walkways, etc. and seems to hold up well. 
    some granite is more porous than others,  i know my granite shower will stay wetter on the lower tiles longer and even with just a sponge for cleaning im seeing some wear on the bottom rows.
    Fish it sounds like you might have a water barrier issue that might be letting water get behind the tiles and accumulating at floor level.  Could be a grout issue.  If you have access to the area/crawl space below you shower I would definitely check it for moisture.  

    Your comment about the sponge makes me think the tile is retaining moisture and slightly drying on the surface and doesn’t take much water to make it go dark again. Water retention will cause spalling on stones.   I’ve seen this before.  

    Sorry for the derail OP 
    that seems to be whats happening and im not sure why. it is in the pan area thats heavy plastic, i put an aluminum drip barrier in top under the cement board and up behind it and over/ under the plastic pan and mudded it in good, then mudded the floor to drain better. floors fine but the 4 inch up the pan stays wet.  i dont see any grout problems

    httpsfinpancomwp-contentuploads201603finpan-preformed-5jpg

    Sometimes all it takes it a good quality grout sealer.  That’s where I’d start.    Did you install the floor tile first and then the walls?
    floor then ceiling, then walls starting from top to bottom on cement board with a coating of pink moisture bocker, and the drip edge between the cement and bed with silicone then mud. sealer once a year. i see permanent sealers now online, maybe next time i seal?
    fukahwee maine

    you can lead a fish to water but you can not make him drink it
  • Kent8621
    Kent8621 Posts: 843
    Options
    here you go @caliking sorry for the delay i missed your question.  let me know if you need any tips or help, i am happy to give you my lessons learned.

    Here is the set up, i did it upside down.  on the melanine top then flipped it over.  it saved me from proving my trowel and float skills.


    Finished product


    2 Large Eggs - Raleigh, NC

    Boiler Up!!

  • Tspud1
    Tspud1 Posts: 1,486
    Options
    HeavyG said:
    Stainless steel is worth a look. Better in every way than the four materials you mentioned.
    @Tspud1 could likely make up something custom for a very fair price.


    Let me know if I can be of assistance
  • JethroBodeen
    Options
    I have two carts and one cooking island with a two burner propane stove that I built. One cart and the island have matching granite. The other cart I did with concrete. What I have learned is that if it is designed to move as my carts were, and they are going to move on not perfectly flat surface. They will crack. My island on the other hand, that wont move is fine.
    I live in Fla. so cold don't happen. My Granite has been through hurricanes, torrential rain and devils ulcers hot. It takes my environment very well.Fortunately for me, my granite was free. Because my carts have only a small amount of material from edge to egg, it is the weak point. When I build another top for either cart, I will build it concrete and reinforce the narrow parts of the cutout. I used the Rapid Set structural mortar that is sold at HD. Mixed by the book, its supposed to be 6500 psi strength. I believe that the slight unevenness and the torsional change when moving the cart causes the crack.

    Having said all that, they both still cook great and work fine!