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Couple questions on bands


I need to replace the busted bolt.  Can I simply take the other out, loosen the top band and slide it in behind the band or do I need to remove the spring?  I know it will be easier to remove the spring with the dome open but I tried and am not having much luck.



I have read the bottom of the top band should be as low on the dome as possible with the top of the bottom band just below the felt line.  How do I do that with the hinge?  I have it that way from about 2 o'clock to 10 but from 10 to 2 (back of egg) I can't get the bottom band any higher due to the hinge.  What am I not doing?
XL BGE

Comments

  • pgprescott
    pgprescott Posts: 14,544
    Must remove the springs. Must watch video on website as you have some misconceptions. The hinges should parallel. Watch the video. 
  • henapple
    henapple Posts: 16,025
    Journey... AC/DC... REO Speedwagon... 
    Green egg, dead animal and alcohol. The "Boro".. TN 
  • SPRIGS
    SPRIGS Posts: 482
    henapple said:
    Journey... AC/DC... REO Speedwagon... 
    Ha!
    XL BGE
  • SPRIGS
    SPRIGS Posts: 482
    Must remove the springs. Must watch video on website as you have some misconceptions. The hinges should parallel. Watch the video. 
    What video, what website?  Thanks.
    XL BGE
  • pgprescott
    pgprescott Posts: 14,544
    SPRIGS said:
    Must remove the springs. Must watch video on website as you have some misconceptions. The hinges should parallel. Watch the video. 
    What video, what website?  Thanks.
    http://biggreenegg.com/getting-started/#assembly

    This one. 
  • SPRIGS
    SPRIGS Posts: 482
    Ok.  Thank you.  Looks like I am going to my dealer for the spacers.  

    Looks like I have to disconnect the brackets that hold the nest to the hinge. Loosen the carriage bolts, loosen the nuts connecting the hinge to the bands, and remove the dome.  Insert the new bolt where I broke it off, then put the dome back in, use the spacers, and then tighten everything back up. 

    I don't have high hopes for this fixing my underbite but I will give it a shot.  Still don't understand how to get the bands closer together where they connect to the hinge.  What I have read says if you don't have the spacers, the top of the top band to the bottom of the bottom ban should be 2".   It appears to me where the hinge connects to the bands prevents them from being 2" apart.

    But I am not mechanically inclined so who knows.

    Thanks again!
    XL BGE
  • pgprescott
    pgprescott Posts: 14,544
    edited September 2017
    Basically line up the edge of the bands with the transition between the gasket and the ceramics. The bands shouldn’t be pushed up or down on the haunches very far. This is precisely what causes the underbite. The bands should be more like 1/4” -3/8” apart. If they are spread too far apart the hing forces the lid backwards resulting in an underbite. 
  • SPRIGS
    SPRIGS Posts: 482
    Thank you!  I appreciate it!!
    XL BGE
  • I just went through what you are describing and in my opinion the new egg hinge/bands are a tad better than the old ones.  It's very hard to get the correct adjustment (spacing) between the bands.  Egg needs to come up with a more acceptable way of adjusting the bands.  It is a very hard job to get these things right.  I readjusted mine probably ten times before they fit and I'm not certain they are right yet.  Good luck cause it frustrating.  
     
    Auburn, Alabama
  • SPRIGS
    SPRIGS Posts: 482
    Basically line up the edge of the bands with the transition between the gasket and the ceramics. The bands shouldn’t be pushed up or down on the haunches very far. This is precisely what causes the underbite. The bands should be more like 1/4” -3/8” apart. If they are spread too far apart the hing forces the lid backwards resulting in an underbite. 
    My dealer had the spacers.  Redid everything and there is still an underbite but it probably is less than a 1/4" so it is for sure better than what I previously had.  Thank you!
    XL BGE