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cast iron skillet dilemma - can you help me?

Comments
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Sounds like you'll need to remove all the old seasoning and start over. At least that's what I've gathered from doing a search online. Maybe someone else has a better idea?
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I wouldn't sand it, I'd just cook the old seasoning off and re-season. I like Jeff Rogers technique for seasoning my CI. Jeff is known in the CI world as "The Culinary Fanatic with several youtube videos of his technique.
LBGE since 2014
Griffin, GA
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Personally, I would chemically strip and re-season the whole thing with the Sheryl Canter multistep flaxseed oil method.
“Reality is that which, when you stop believing in it, doesn't go away.” ― Philip K. Diçk -
@RRP
Im not a cast iron expert, but when mine gets to where they won't hold seasoning for whatever reason, I sand blast them. Sure you have to reseason, but it's worth it in my book. Sand blasting works miricales on cast iron without removing metal thickness.Location- Just "this side" of Biloxi, Ms.
Status- Standing by.
The greatest barrier against all wisdom, the stronghold against knowledge itself, is the single thought, in ones mind, that they already have it all figured out. -
Thanks - here's a link.HeavyG said:
Personally, I would chemically strip and re-season the whole thing with the Sheryl Canter multistep flaxseed oil method.
https://www.cooksillustrated.com/how_tos/5820-the-ultimate-way-to-season-cast-iron
BTW I will be seasoning my new baking steel this week using this flaxseed method due to the suggested durability.Re-gasketing the USA one yard at a time -
Thanks but none of my air compressors are powerful enough to use a sand blaster attachment and hiring it done isn't cost effective.SGH said:@RRP
Im not a cast iron expert, but when mine gets to where they won't hold seasoning for whatever reason, I sand blast them. Sure you have to reseason, but it's worth it in my book. Sand blasting works miricales on cast iron without removing metal thickness.Re-gasketing the USA one yard at a time -
Or one could go straight to the horses mouth - http://sherylcanter.com/wordpress/2010/01/a-science-based-technique-for-seasoning-cast-iron/RRP said:
Thanks - here's a link.HeavyG said:
Personally, I would chemically strip and re-season the whole thing with the Sheryl Canter multistep flaxseed oil method.
https://www.cooksillustrated.com/how_tos/5820-the-ultimate-way-to-season-cast-iron
BTW I will be seasoning my new baking steel this week using this flaxseed method due to the suggested durability.
lots of interesting info about the why's of her process and further interesting discussion in the comments.“Reality is that which, when you stop believing in it, doesn't go away.” ― Philip K. Diçk -
I have had to refurbish "heritage ci" and followed the suggestions on the Lodge website. My ci pans were good as new after a thorough cleaning/seasoning.
Lodge:
To Soap or not to Soap...
If no soap is too scary, wash with mild soapy water and dry and oil immediately. However, consider that cookware is 400ºF in 4 minutes on medium heat and is sterile at 212º F, so soap isn’t always necessary.
Dishwashers, strong detergents and metal scouring pads are not recommended, as they remove seasoning.
Rust?! Don't Panic, it's not Broken
Without protective seasoning iron can rust.
It’s really easy to fix. Scour the rust, rinse, dry, and rub with a little vegetable oil.
If problem persists, you will need to thoroughly remove all rust and follow our re-seasoning instructions (below).
Refurbish Your Finish
While maintaining the seasoning should keep your Cast Iron and Carbon Steel in good condition, at some point you may need to re-season your cookware. If food sticks to the surface, or you notice a dull, gray color, repeat the seasoning process:
* Wash the cookware with hot, soapy water and a stiff brush. (It is okay to use soap this time because you are preparing to re-season the cookware).
* Rinse and dry completely.
* Apply a very thin, even coating of MELTED solid vegetable shortening (or cooking oil of your choice) to the cookware inside and out. Too much oil will result in a sticky finish.
* Place aluminum foil on the bottom rack of the oven (not directly on bottom) to catch any drips.
* Set oven temperature to 350 – 400 degrees F.
* Place cookware upside down on the top rack of the oven to prevent pooling.
* Bake the cookware for at least one hour. After the hour, turn the oven off and let the cookware cool in the oven.
* Store the cookware uncovered, in a dry place when cooled.
* Repeat as necessary.
IL -
LBGE 2013 & MM 2014Die Hard HUSKER & BRONCO FANFlying Low & Slow in "Da Burg" FL
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You've got an interesting challeng going on, if you decide to sand it, i'd get a good lard and reason with it. You'll get, good luck.
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If you know anyone who has a connection at an electrical motor repair shop they generally have a chemical strip bath and sand blaster. The one I use will usually do it for a nominal charge, around $5 or free if you ask nicely.RRP said:
Thanks but none of my air compressors are powerful enough to use a sand blaster attachment and hiring it done isn't cost effective.SGH said:@RRP
Im not a cast iron expert, but when mine gets to where they won't hold seasoning for whatever reason, I sand blast them. Sure you have to reseason, but it's worth it in my book. Sand blasting works miricales on cast iron without removing metal thickness. -
Opinions are like a$$holes ....everybody has one.LBGE 2013 & MM 2014Die Hard HUSKER & BRONCO FANFlying Low & Slow in "Da Burg" FL
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Ron, it may be fond that has carbonized with use from not being fully removed.
You will have to strip, but I wouldn't sand, or sandblast.
A shot in the dark here, but try spraying some oven cleaner on a rag and wipe the the areas affected, let it sit. May remove enough of the carbon fond without getting down to iron. Or, lightly spay just the bottom, place in a garbage bag for several days. You could mask the sides real quick so that overspray doesn't hit them, removing after spraying. Then wash thoroughly, reseason the bottom with grapeseed oil (avoid flaxseed) via the stovetop on high.
BrandonQuad Cities
"If yer gonna denigrate, familiarity with the subject is helpful." -
Thanks Brandon - I should have emailed you but when I posted this I planned to repair it today and I just assumed you were either on duty or out camping or whatever today.Focker said:Ron, it may be fond that has carbonized with use from not being fully removed.
You will have to strip, but I wouldn't sand, or sandblast.
A shot in the dark here, but try spraying some oven cleaner on a rag and wipe the the areas affected, let it sit. May remove enough of the carbon fond without getting down to iron. Or, lightly spay just the bottom, place in a garbage bag for several days. You could mask the sides real quick so that overspray doesn't hit them, removing after spraying. Then wash thoroughly, reseason the bottom with grapeseed oil (avoid flaxseed) via the stovetop on high.
Just so you know where I'm coming from this "favorite antique" skillet is the Monkey Ward one you gave me! The bottom of the skillet, and walls in and out are perfect, but the interior bottom has taken on the dullness in spite of my caring. Why do you suggest avoiding flaxseed over grapeseed? With a forecast of 3 days of rain here I planned to season my new baking steel so I'd appreciate your input! Thanks buddy! I hope you have Saturday, June 4th circled on your calender for the 14th annual Peoria Eggfest!Re-gasketing the USA one yard at a time -
There are many schools of thought regarding which fat to use to season cast iron.
Here's a page that may be of interest - http://www.castironcollector.com/seasoning.php
I couldn't care less about the collector or display aspects of all this.
Ultimately the real seasoning of cast iron has to come from many many months (years?) of actual usage/cooking.
I like the flaxseed approach for initial seasoning. I've not had any problems with flaking or chipping. My suspicion is that some folks that do have not done a good prep job or take some other shortcut and that impacts the ability of the finish to adhere as best it can.
The beauty of all this is that stripping and re-seasoning is no big deal and one can always take a mulligan if they are not happy with one approach.“Reality is that which, when you stop believing in it, doesn't go away.” ― Philip K. Diçk -
I just reseason mine with coconut oil as it has a high smoke point and it works well for me. @RRP If it were me I would restart the process and try to get it sandblasted at a local shop for a few bucks. They say they don't do it over the phone but if you go in and ask nicely they usually do it at no chargeXLBGE, MMBGE, CyberQ
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Try doing a bunch of deep frying in it.2-XLs ,MM,blackstone,Ooni koda 16,R&V works 8.5 gallon fryer,express smoker and 40" smoking cajun
scott
Greenville Tx -
Ron, I guess this is the one time a hack saw want fix the problem. I'm in the start over camp myself. It's a bummer I know.Ellijay GA with a Medium & MiniMax
Well, I married me a wife, she's been trouble all my life,
Run me out in the cold rain and snow -
I reseasoned our very old pan that had been abused on our BGE (forgot to take off of grill and burned on beef fat from a sear) using flaxseed oil and following this 18 hour process. It was a long process but worthwhile. Very happy with the results. Cornbread perfect, so are sears.
http://www.thekitchn.com/i-seasoned-my-cast-iron-pan-with-flaxseed-oil-and-heres-what-happened-224612
BGE Large and MiniMax, Napolean 500. Obsessed with rotisserie. -
I'm not a huge fan of chemical cleans on cast iron. I don't like the thought of the chemicals soaking in and then leeching out during cooking. If that's a newer cast iron then I'd say it's time to mechanically remove the seasoning. Orbital sander would be my preference.
If that's an antique or you don't like the idea of sanding cast iron then I'd say look into electrolysis.
http://www.castironcollector.com/electrolysis.php
XL BGE
Plano, TX -
if its a baked on fond like focker mentioned you can heat the pan hot, then dump in a 1/4 cup hot water and work it with a spatula, the instant sizzling will lift it off
fukahwee maineyou can lead a fish to water but you can not make him drink it -
it's not baked on fond and the areas are smooth to the touch. Oil simply beads up and runs off these areas and that's why I was thinking of actually sanding the bottom with emery cloth to get "into" the metal by a minute layer.fishlessman said:if its a baked on fond like focker mentioned you can heat the pan hot, then dump in a 1/4 cup hot water and work it with a spatula, the instant sizzling will lift it offRe-gasketing the USA one yard at a time -
whatever barrier is there will lift off with sizzling water. i use lard, i believe lodge uses flaxseed and ive had problems with those preseasoned pansRRP said:
it's not baked on fond and the areas are smooth to the touch. Oil simply beads up and runs off these areas and that's why I was thinking of actually sanding the bottom with emery cloth to get "into" the metal by a minute layer.fishlessman said:if its a baked on fond like focker mentioned you can heat the pan hot, then dump in a 1/4 cup hot water and work it with a spatula, the instant sizzling will lift it off
fukahwee maineyou can lead a fish to water but you can not make him drink it -
EPILOGUE!
I reviewed all the suggestions and decided to try the easiest method first vs. starting all over again. I tried @fishlessman's boiling water and though I had to keep adding water after an hour the bottom was spotless! I do thank everyone one for your recommendations!
Here's the horseshoe pattern I started out with.
Now clean as a whistle and ready for the grapeseed oil.
Re-gasketing the USA one yard at a time -
if you got the pan even hotter and the water skittering hot it would have been even quicker
but water works well, you want to see the water dancing in the pan
fukahwee maineyou can lead a fish to water but you can not make him drink it -
I gathered that, but I figured ifs I got it too hot then I might mess up the rest of the seasoning so I toned it down by using more water and more time. But I do thank you for pointing me in the right direction!fishlessman said:if you got the pan even hotter and the water skittering hot it would have been even quicker
but water works well, you want to see the water dancing in the panRe-gasketing the USA one yard at a time -
i dont worry about the seasoning any more, i routinely deglaze the pan for graveys etc, this weekend seared up 8 pounds of beef chunks for chili, deglazed pan and added that to the chili pot,, sauteed some veggies to go in and wiped the pan clean with paper towel. i am one of those were the pan stays stovetop and never sees the sinkRRP said:
I gathered that, but I figured ifs I got it too hot then I might mess up the rest of the seasoning so I toned it down by using more water and more time. But I do thank you for pointing me in the right direction!fishlessman said:if you got the pan even hotter and the water skittering hot it would have been even quicker
but water works well, you want to see the water dancing in the pan
fukahwee maineyou can lead a fish to water but you can not make him drink it -
Agree wth fish. The wife invariably boils something the pan once a week, making gravy or whatever. NBD.
Wipe clean, hit it with oil, hang it up. Done. The deeper seasoning returns with more and more use.
[social media disclaimer: irony and sarcasm may be used in some or all of user's posts; emoticon usage is intended to indicate moderately jocular social interaction; the comments toward users, their usernames, and the real people (living or dead) that they refer to are not intended to be adversarial in nature; those replying to this user are entering into a tacit agreement that they are real-life or social-media acquaintances and/or have agreed to or tacitly agreed to perpetrate occasional good-natured ribbing between and among themselves and others] -
Or, to avoid chemicals you could use one of these:jimithing said:I'm not a huge fan of chemical cleans on cast iron. I don't like the thought of the chemicals soaking in and then leeching out during cooking. If that's a newer cast iron then I'd say it's time to mechanically remove the seasoning. Orbital sander would be my preference.
If that's an antique or you don't like the idea of sanding cast iron then I'd say look into electrolysis.
http://www.castironcollector.com/electrolysis.php
http://i.imgur.com/J8P1FGZ.gifv#oo
“Reality is that which, when you stop believing in it, doesn't go away.” ― Philip K. Diçk -
40 or so years ago, my IDIOT roommate put my PERFECTLY SEASONED (like Teflon) cast iron skillet on his electric range, cranked it up and went and did something else. I came into the house an unknown amount of time later and smelled an awful smell. I tracked it down to the Kitchen and blanched when I saw my skillet in the GLOWING PHASE of destruction with ALL the seasoning cooked off/out/GONE.
I quenched the skillet in WATER producing enough steam for an average Turkish Bath. It took me YEARS to get this skillet back in shape. I continue to use it.
If I wanted to de-season a skillet? I'd put it ON THE EGG and leave the vent open and NO restriction on top. I guarantee that'll do it. Guaranteed!
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