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cast iron skillet dilemma - can you help me?

RRP
RRP Posts: 26,455
Any CI doctors here today? My favorite antique CI skillet has areas where it just won't take seasoning. I've cleaned it many times with just hot water and if need be used some kosher salt as grit. I've tried various oils and they simply run off the spots while the rest of the skillet just gets more shiney and slicker! These spots are not rough to the feel, but food does stick somewhat so I know the areas have an issue. Should I just take my orbital sander to the bottom and start the seasoning all over? The rest of the skillet outside and inside are perfectly seasoned so I was hoping to avoid starting the entire piece all over again. TIA

Re-gasketing the USA one yard at a time 
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Comments

  • Golfguy77
    Golfguy77 Posts: 93
    Sounds like you'll need to remove all the old seasoning and start over.  At least that's what I've gathered from doing a search online.  Maybe someone else has a better idea?
  • DaveRichardson
    DaveRichardson Posts: 2,324
    edited March 2016
    I wouldn't sand it, I'd just cook the old seasoning off and re-season.  I like Jeff Rogers technique for seasoning my CI.  Jeff is known in the CI world as "The Culinary Fanatic with several youtube videos of his technique.

    LBGE since 2014

    Griffin, GA 

  • HeavyG
    HeavyG Posts: 10,380

    Personally, I would chemically strip and re-season the whole thing with the Sheryl Canter multistep flaxseed oil method.


    “Reality is that which, when you stop believing in it, doesn't go away.” ― Philip K. Diçk




  • SGH
    SGH Posts: 28,989
    @RRP
    Im not a cast iron expert, but when mine gets to where they won't hold seasoning for whatever reason, I sand blast them. Sure you have to reseason, but it's worth it in my book. Sand blasting works miricales on cast iron without removing metal thickness. 

    Location- Just "this side" of Biloxi, Ms.

    Status- Standing by.

    The greatest barrier against all wisdom, the stronghold against knowledge itself, is the single thought, in ones mind, that they already have it all figured out. 

  • RRP
    RRP Posts: 26,455
    HeavyG said:

    Personally, I would chemically strip and re-season the whole thing with the Sheryl Canter multistep flaxseed oil method.


    Thanks - here's a link. 
    https://www.cooksillustrated.com/how_tos/5820-the-ultimate-way-to-season-cast-iron

    BTW I will be seasoning my new baking steel this week using this flaxseed method due to the suggested durability.
    Re-gasketing the USA one yard at a time 
  • RRP
    RRP Posts: 26,455

    SGH said:
    @RRP
    Im not a cast iron expert, but when mine gets to where they won't hold seasoning for whatever reason, I sand blast them. Sure you have to reseason, but it's worth it in my book. Sand blasting works miricales on cast iron without removing metal thickness. 
    Thanks but none of my air compressors are powerful enough to use a sand blaster attachment and hiring it done isn't cost effective.
    Re-gasketing the USA one yard at a time 
  • HeavyG
    HeavyG Posts: 10,380
    RRP said:
    HeavyG said:

    Personally, I would chemically strip and re-season the whole thing with the Sheryl Canter multistep flaxseed oil method.


    Thanks - here's a link. 
    https://www.cooksillustrated.com/how_tos/5820-the-ultimate-way-to-season-cast-iron

    BTW I will be seasoning my new baking steel this week using this flaxseed method due to the suggested durability.
    Or one could go straight to the horses mouth - http://sherylcanter.com/wordpress/2010/01/a-science-based-technique-for-seasoning-cast-iron/

    lots of interesting info about the why's of her process and further interesting discussion in the comments.
    “Reality is that which, when you stop believing in it, doesn't go away.” ― Philip K. Diçk




  • LetsEat
    LetsEat Posts: 462
    I have had to refurbish "heritage ci" and followed the suggestions on the Lodge website. My ci pans were good as new after a thorough cleaning/seasoning. 
    Lodge:
    To Soap or not to Soap...

    If no soap is too scary, wash with mild soapy water and dry and oil immediately. However, consider that cookware is 400ºF in 4 minutes on medium heat and is sterile at 212º F, so soap isn’t always necessary.

    Dishwashers, strong detergents and metal scouring pads are not recommended, as they remove seasoning.

     

    Rust?! Don't Panic, it's not Broken

    Without protective seasoning iron can rust.

    It’s really easy to fix. Scour the rust, rinse, dry, and rub with a little vegetable oil.

    If problem persists, you will need to thoroughly remove all rust and follow our re-seasoning instructions (below).

     

    Refurbish Your Finish

    While maintaining the seasoning should keep your Cast Iron and Carbon Steel in good condition, at some point you may need to re-season your cookware. If food sticks to the surface, or you notice a dull, gray color, repeat the seasoning process:

    * Wash the cookware with hot, soapy water and a stiff brush. (It is okay to use soap this time because you are preparing to re-season the cookware).

    * Rinse and dry completely.

    * Apply a very thin, even coating of MELTED solid vegetable shortening (or cooking oil of your choice) to the cookware inside and out. Too much oil will result in a sticky finish.

    * Place aluminum foil on the bottom rack of the oven (not directly on bottom) to catch any drips.

    * Set oven temperature to 350 – 400 degrees F.

    * Place cookware upside down on the top rack of the oven to prevent pooling.

    * Bake the cookware for at least one hour. After the hour, turn the oven off and let the cookware cool in the oven.

    * Store the cookware uncovered, in a dry place when cooled.

    * Repeat as necessary.  


    IL 
  • NPHuskerFL
    NPHuskerFL Posts: 17,629
    If it was me I'd start out with a fresh slate so to speak. 
    https://youtu.be/j6Tz3HnnCFs
    LBGE 2013 & MM 2014
    Die Hard HUSKER & BRONCO FAN
    Flying Low & Slow in "Da Burg" FL
  • luckyboy
    luckyboy Posts: 284
    You've got an interesting challeng going on, if you decide to sand it, i'd get a good lard and reason with it. You'll get, good luck.
  • GregW
    GregW Posts: 2,678
    RRP said:

    SGH said:
    @RRP
    Im not a cast iron expert, but when mine gets to where they won't hold seasoning for whatever reason, I sand blast them. Sure you have to reseason, but it's worth it in my book. Sand blasting works miricales on cast iron without removing metal thickness. 
    Thanks but none of my air compressors are powerful enough to use a sand blaster attachment and hiring it done isn't cost effective.
    If you know anyone who has a connection at an electrical motor repair shop they generally have a chemical strip bath and sand blaster. The one I use will usually do it for a nominal charge, around $5 or free if you ask nicely.
  • NPHuskerFL
    NPHuskerFL Posts: 17,629
    Opinions are like a$$holes ....everybody has one. 
    LBGE 2013 & MM 2014
    Die Hard HUSKER & BRONCO FAN
    Flying Low & Slow in "Da Burg" FL
  • Focker
    Focker Posts: 8,364
    edited March 2016
    Ron, it may be fond that has carbonized with use from not being fully removed.  

    You will have to strip, but I wouldn't sand, or sandblast.  

    A shot in the dark here, but try spraying some oven cleaner on a rag and wipe the the areas affected, let it sit.  May remove enough of the carbon fond without getting down to iron.  Or, lightly spay just the bottom, place in a garbage bag for several days.  You could mask the sides real quick so that overspray doesn't hit them, removing after spraying.  Then wash thoroughly, reseason the bottom with grapeseed oil (avoid flaxseed) via the stovetop on high.  


    Brandon
    Quad Cities
    "If yer gonna denigrate, familiarity with the subject is helpful."

  • RRP
    RRP Posts: 26,455
    Focker said:
    Ron, it may be fond that has carbonized with use from not being fully removed.  

    You will have to strip, but I wouldn't sand, or sandblast.  

    A shot in the dark here, but try spraying some oven cleaner on a rag and wipe the the areas affected, let it sit.  May remove enough of the carbon fond without getting down to iron.  Or, lightly spay just the bottom, place in a garbage bag for several days.  You could mask the sides real quick so that overspray doesn't hit them, removing after spraying.  Then wash thoroughly, reseason the bottom with grapeseed oil (avoid flaxseed) via the stovetop on high.  


    Thanks Brandon - I should have emailed you but when I posted this I planned to repair it today and I just assumed you were either on duty or out camping or whatever today. 

    Just so you know where I'm coming from this "favorite antique" skillet is the Monkey Ward one you gave me! The bottom of the skillet, and walls in and out are perfect, but the interior bottom has taken on the dullness in spite of my caring. Why do you suggest avoiding flaxseed over grapeseed? With a forecast of 3 days of rain here I planned to season my new baking steel so I'd appreciate your input! Thanks buddy! I hope you have Saturday, June 4th circled on your calender for the 14th annual Peoria Eggfest!
    Re-gasketing the USA one yard at a time 
  • HeavyG
    HeavyG Posts: 10,380
    There are many schools of thought regarding which fat to use to season cast iron.

    Here's a page that may be of interest - http://www.castironcollector.com/seasoning.php

    I couldn't care less about the collector or display aspects of all this.

    Ultimately the real seasoning of cast iron has to come from many many months (years?) of actual usage/cooking.

    I like the flaxseed approach for initial seasoning. I've not had any problems with flaking or chipping. My suspicion is that some folks that do have not done a good prep job or take some other shortcut and that impacts the ability of the finish to adhere as best it can.

    The beauty of all this is that stripping and re-seasoning is no big deal and one can always take a mulligan if they are not happy with one approach.
    “Reality is that which, when you stop believing in it, doesn't go away.” ― Philip K. Diçk




  • 1move
    1move Posts: 516
    I just reseason mine with coconut oil as it has a high smoke point and it works well for me. @RRP If it were me I would restart the process and try to get it sandblasted at a local shop for a few bucks. They say they don't do it over the phone but if you go in and ask nicely they usually do it at no charge 
    XLBGE, MMBGE, CyberQ
  • texaswig
    texaswig Posts: 2,682
    Try doing a bunch of deep frying in it. 

    2-XLs ,MM,blackstone,Ooni koda 16,R&V works 8.5 gallon fryer,express smoker and 40" smoking cajun 

    scott 
    Greenville Tx
  • northGAcock
    northGAcock Posts: 15,173
    Ron, I guess this is the one time a hack saw want fix the problem. I'm in the start over camp myself. It's a bummer I know.
    Ellijay GA with a Medium & MiniMax

    Well, I married me a wife, she's been trouble all my life,
    Run me out in the cold rain and snow
  • eggnewtoy
    eggnewtoy Posts: 497
    edited March 2016
    I reseasoned our very old pan that had been abused on our BGE (forgot to take off of grill and burned on beef fat from a sear) using flaxseed oil and following this 18 hour process.  It was a long process but worthwhile.  Very happy with the results.  Cornbread perfect, so are sears.  

    http://www.thekitchn.com/i-seasoned-my-cast-iron-pan-with-flaxseed-oil-and-heres-what-happened-224612


     
    BGE Large and MiniMax, Napolean 500.  Obsessed with rotisserie.  


  • jimithing
    jimithing Posts: 255
    I'm not a huge fan of chemical cleans on cast iron.  I don't like the thought of the chemicals soaking in and then leeching out during cooking.  If that's a newer cast iron then I'd say it's time to mechanically remove the seasoning.  Orbital sander would be my preference. 

    If that's an antique or you don't like the idea of sanding cast iron then I'd say look into electrolysis. 

    http://www.castironcollector.com/electrolysis.php

    XL BGE
    Plano, TX
  • fishlessman
    fishlessman Posts: 34,597
    if its a baked on fond like focker mentioned you can heat the pan hot, then dump in a 1/4 cup hot water and work it with a spatula, the instant sizzling will lift it off
    fukahwee maine

    you can lead a fish to water but you can not make him drink it
  • RRP
    RRP Posts: 26,455
    if its a baked on fond like focker mentioned you can heat the pan hot, then dump in a 1/4 cup hot water and work it with a spatula, the instant sizzling will lift it off
    it's not baked on fond and the areas are smooth to the touch. Oil simply beads up and runs off these areas and that's why I was thinking of actually sanding the bottom with emery cloth to get "into" the metal by a minute layer.
    Re-gasketing the USA one yard at a time 
  • fishlessman
    fishlessman Posts: 34,597
    RRP said:
    if its a baked on fond like focker mentioned you can heat the pan hot, then dump in a 1/4 cup hot water and work it with a spatula, the instant sizzling will lift it off
    it's not baked on fond and the areas are smooth to the touch. Oil simply beads up and runs off these areas and that's why I was thinking of actually sanding the bottom with emery cloth to get "into" the metal by a minute layer.
    whatever barrier is there will lift off with sizzling water.  i use lard, i believe lodge uses flaxseed and ive had problems with those preseasoned pans
    fukahwee maine

    you can lead a fish to water but you can not make him drink it
  • RRP
    RRP Posts: 26,455
    edited March 2016
    EPILOGUE!
    I reviewed all the suggestions and decided to try the easiest method first vs. starting all over again. I tried @fishlessman's boiling water and though I had to keep adding water after an hour the bottom was spotless! I do thank everyone one for your recommendations! 

    Here's the horseshoe pattern I started out with.


    Now clean as a whistle and ready for the grapeseed oil.

    Re-gasketing the USA one yard at a time 
  • fishlessman
    fishlessman Posts: 34,597
    if you got the pan even hotter and the water skittering hot it would have been even quicker =) but water works well, you want to see the water dancing in the pan
    fukahwee maine

    you can lead a fish to water but you can not make him drink it
  • RRP
    RRP Posts: 26,455
    if you got the pan even hotter and the water skittering hot it would have been even quicker =) but water works well, you want to see the water dancing in the pan
    I gathered that, but I figured ifs I got it too hot then I might mess up the rest of the seasoning so I toned it down by using more water and more time. But I do thank you for pointing me in the right direction!
    Re-gasketing the USA one yard at a time 
  • fishlessman
    fishlessman Posts: 34,597
    RRP said:
    if you got the pan even hotter and the water skittering hot it would have been even quicker =) but water works well, you want to see the water dancing in the pan
    I gathered that, but I figured ifs I got it too hot then I might mess up the rest of the seasoning so I toned it down by using more water and more time. But I do thank you for pointing me in the right direction!
    i dont worry about the seasoning any more, i routinely deglaze the pan for graveys etc, this weekend seared up 8 pounds of beef chunks for chili, deglazed pan and added that to the chili pot,, sauteed some veggies to go in and wiped the pan clean with paper towel. i am one of those were the pan stays stovetop and never sees the sink
    fukahwee maine

    you can lead a fish to water but you can not make him drink it
  • Darby_Crenshaw
    Darby_Crenshaw Posts: 2,657
    Agree wth fish. The wife invariably boils something the pan once a week, making gravy or whatever. NBD. 

    Wipe clean, hit it with oil, hang it up. Done. The deeper seasoning returns with more and more use. 


    [social media disclaimer: irony and sarcasm may be used in some or all of user's posts; emoticon usage is intended to indicate moderately jocular social interaction; the comments toward users, their usernames, and the real people (living or dead) that they refer to are not intended to be adversarial in nature; those replying to this user are entering into a tacit agreement that they are real-life or social-media acquaintances and/or have agreed to or tacitly agreed to perpetrate occasional good-natured ribbing between and among themselves and others]

  • HeavyG
    HeavyG Posts: 10,380
    edited March 2016
    jimithing said:
    I'm not a huge fan of chemical cleans on cast iron.  I don't like the thought of the chemicals soaking in and then leeching out during cooking.  If that's a newer cast iron then I'd say it's time to mechanically remove the seasoning.  Orbital sander would be my preference. 

    If that's an antique or you don't like the idea of sanding cast iron then I'd say look into electrolysis. 

    http://www.castironcollector.com/electrolysis.php

    Or, to avoid chemicals you could use one of these:

    http://i.imgur.com/J8P1FGZ.gifv#oo
    “Reality is that which, when you stop believing in it, doesn't go away.” ― Philip K. Diçk




  • Begger
    Begger Posts: 607
    40 or so years ago, my IDIOT roommate put my PERFECTLY SEASONED (like Teflon) cast iron skillet on his electric range, cranked it up and went and did something else.   I came into the house an unknown amount of time later and smelled an awful smell.   I tracked it down to the Kitchen and blanched when I saw my skillet in the GLOWING PHASE of destruction with ALL the seasoning cooked off/out/GONE.  

    I quenched the skillet in WATER producing enough steam for an average Turkish Bath.   It took me YEARS to get this skillet back in shape.   I continue to use it.

    If I wanted to de-season a skillet?   I'd put it ON THE EGG and leave the vent open and NO restriction on top.   I guarantee that'll do it.  Guaranteed!