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Tips for cooking in single digit temps?
pkegg419
Posts: 17
Hi all - sorry if this has been covered extensively but I had some quick questions about cooking in the cold and you've all been so helpful thus far!
1. can you use the ceramic cap to snuff out the fire at the end of the cook even when the cap has been sitting out and it's super cold (i.e., will the ceramic cap crack if it's been sitting in the cold and you just put it on the egg while it's hot during shut down?)
2. do i need to do anything specific to the egg during shut down or start up when it's in single digits? i'm worried about the gaskets (they're the ones that came with the egg) freezing - i've read using foil and/or wax paper after it's down to a certain temp but am curious if there are other ideas?
3. i'm cooking spare ribs with 3-2-1, curious to hear thoughts on how much charcoal i'll need and whether the temp should be raised in colder weather climates to 275 or more? was planning otherwise on around 250.
thanks and definitely if you have any other tips to share that don't address the things above, i'd love to hear them. i'm a total rookie here so i could use all the help i can get!
1. can you use the ceramic cap to snuff out the fire at the end of the cook even when the cap has been sitting out and it's super cold (i.e., will the ceramic cap crack if it's been sitting in the cold and you just put it on the egg while it's hot during shut down?)
2. do i need to do anything specific to the egg during shut down or start up when it's in single digits? i'm worried about the gaskets (they're the ones that came with the egg) freezing - i've read using foil and/or wax paper after it's down to a certain temp but am curious if there are other ideas?
3. i'm cooking spare ribs with 3-2-1, curious to hear thoughts on how much charcoal i'll need and whether the temp should be raised in colder weather climates to 275 or more? was planning otherwise on around 250.
thanks and definitely if you have any other tips to share that don't address the things above, i'd love to hear them. i'm a total rookie here so i could use all the help i can get!
LBGE, 2016 Rookie Year; Southern CT
Comments
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the egg has no idea what the temp is. nothing will change.
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Move to warmer climate !!!
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I dont know what single digits are being I'm from Texas, but I think #1 is a valid question that I can't help on. #2 You should go ahead and get a gasket from Ron and make the switch. I've never heard of them freezing or anything like that (but like I said, I'm from Texas). I wouldn't do anything different, just might take a little longer to get up to temp. #3 I always load the firebox up all the way full regardless of how long my cook is. I don't think you should have to increase temp any because once the egg comes to temp and stabilizes 250 inside should be 250 inside.
But i will let the experts chime in. I'm just going on gut feelings here.------------------------------------------------------------------------LBGE 2013 - MiniMax 2015 - Seemingly every accessory the fine folks at CGS sell - Fightin' Texas Aggie till I die - Gig 'Em - Located in the bright lights of Dallas -
My thoughts to your questions:
1. I've never thought about this but I definitely see your point. I always use the ceramic cap to snuff it out even after 500+ degree cooks in -15F degree cooks. I do try to bring the plate setter up to temp with the egg to avoid shocking it with high heat.
2. I start up the same way all the time and when I shut down in the winter I do put foil around the gasket.
3. Just fill the charcoal all the way up and cook at your normal temperatures.
Welcome!Lg & MM BGE, Humphrey’s Battle Box | Palatine, Illinois -
see the first reply. that guy knows what he's talking about.
there is no issue. cook on.
warm weather dudes chiming in with the answers.... i don't answer questions about whether it's safe to cook when it's 110% humidity and 98 degrees, or whether to use the ceramic cap if there's an alligator in my yard.
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1) It shouldn't be a problem. If you don't have a warranty on it and you're worried, then cut a plywood circle that will fit into the daisy wheel and cover the opening. Lift ugly daisy, lay the circle over the exit hole, and drop ugly daisy back on top of it and the dome. The wood will not burn.
2) The seal seems to freeze up more when going from just above freezing with rain to below freezing. A new, spongy seal seems to absorb the rain water and then freeze up. I've had my OEM seal freeze with aluminum foil covering the seal ... so, that's not the answer. Some folks have fessed up that their Rutland seal froze ... so, that's not the ultimate answer, although it does seem to yield a higher probability of success. A small object used to prop the dome open a little bit seems to be the "works every time" answer ... although you have to remember to prop the lid up after the fire goes out ... many hours after the cook has ended. The best insurance is to leave some lump in the egg and light it off via the bottom vent when/it freezes up.
3) The temp inside the egg is what the thermometer reads ... irrespective of outside temps. You will burn a little more lump ... so, do fill at least enough to make the fire bowl-to-fire ring seam disappear. Better to have extra lump in the egg than in the bag. The colder the weather, the more lump you burn ... wish someone would quantify that value. The cold air has to be heated for the fuel to burn and the cold air will suck more heat out through the ceramics ... wind will also contribute to more heat energy being sucked out of the egg.
4) Yes, you have to dress warmer ... but really, you're concerned with cold in Southern Connecticut? The Canadians would probably be wearing shorts while cooking there!
Happy cooking ... pics and a post would be great!
Washington, IL > Queen Creek, AZ ... Two large eggs and an adopted Mini Max
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@pkegg419 just cook like you normally do. The Egg really doesn't care what the temperature outside is. You might consider some anti-freeze (adult libations) for the pit master, though.
Living the good life smoking and joking -
I just pull the egg close to the sliding glass door so I don't have to step outside. :-) On this day I smoked a whole chicken as I usually do. Same vent settings to maintain same dome temp even if it was 85 degrees outside, cook time was the same. I am inside with door closed while taking this video. -25 F windchill. 35 - 45 mph winds
Oh and it wasn't snowing. . . just picking snow off the field...
I have had the dome freeze to the base as I had no gasket for a while. I just use the mapp gas torch to light the lump from the bottom vent and wait a half hour for it to come up to temperature.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=alR0S83qrWo&feature=youtu.be
Large, Medium, MiniMax, 36" Blackstone
Grand Rapids MI -
Thinking about the first question: When it's 70F out, you wouldn't think twice about snuffing a dome that is reading 650F after a pizza cook, right? That's a 580F delta.
When it's -15F out we question things because it's cold. However, if the cap can be used at a 580F delta, it would be no different than capping a 565F dome right?
Now, that 580F delta is probably not the highest the ceramic can handle. Therefore the conclusion is what @Darby_Crenshaw said...the egg has no idea what temp it is.
North Pittsburgh, PA
1 LGE -
I have always used the ceramic cap to snuff out the fire. No issues.
I never have worried about gaskets . . . ran without for a while, now have a rutland.
As stated above. The egg doesn't care what temp it is. It cooks the same. Now if your vent was facing an incoming breeze, you may need to turn the egg so its "back" is to the wind.
Large, Medium, MiniMax, 36" Blackstone
Grand Rapids MI -
i've never had this problem, cooking in blizzards even. you can't really 'push' air into the vent. it's a draft situation. i suppose conceivably you could have a situation where the issue might be air going across the top and dragging exhaust out the daisy ala bernoulli (or is it venturi?).kl8ton said:Now if your vent was facing an incoming breeze, you may need to turn the egg so its "back" is to the wind.
but it's a small opening in either case. really can't happen.
in fact, in wind, there's actually a static layer of air around objects, a little boundary layer. air is like water, wants to go where it's easiest. it won't fight its way into the egg.
my best-ever low and slow as an overnighter during a raging blizzard. rock solid temps, never wavered. and to boot, i used the bottom of the bag of charcoal. all those fines on top of the pile made it easy for the fire to move around maybe
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Isn't the egg made out of the same stuff that NASA uses to build space shuttles? What is the delta of being in outer space and re-entering the earths atmosphere?chadpsualum said:Thinking about the first question: When it's 70F out, you wouldn't think twice about snuffing a dome that is reading 650F after a pizza cook, right? That's a 580F delta.
When it's -15F out we question things because it's cold. However, if the cap can be used at a 580F delta, it would be no different than capping a 565F dome right?
Now, that 580F delta is probably not the highest the ceramic can handle. Therefore the conclusion is what @Darby_Crenshaw said...the egg has no idea what temp it is.
Large, Medium, MiniMax, 36" Blackstone
Grand Rapids MI -
Hmmm ... golf balls have dimples to affect the airflow ... Big Green Eggs have dimples ... must be a scientific connection!
Washington, IL > Queen Creek, AZ ... Two large eggs and an adopted Mini Max
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nopekl8ton said:Isn't the egg made out of the same stuff that NASA uses to build space shuttles?
@jeepster the dimples are an affectation. they pay homage (NB! it's "hommidge", not "oh-madj") to the way these used to be made by hand.
larger earthenware vessels like these were made in halves, stuck together with slip before firing. to cover up the joint and surface imperfections, the maker would pat the surface with slip, making a random spattery pattern.
HERE is an example which is sponge-applied.
these things(domes and bases, separately) are molded in one piece now, and the easiest shaped to form (the dimple) is also the one which doesn't wear out the mold (no sharp edges, etc.)
the older BGE pattern was more random, in keeping with the traditional hand applied slip
the new one is more cartoonish, and a little "gold-ballish" if you ask me
frankly, although the shape of the egg is something that probably couldn't have been patented, the dimple pattern is totally new and separate from the traditional patterns. it is actually one of the signature visual elements of the BGE, and probably should have been trademarked. alas, every egg on the larket copies this non-functional design element (mostly).
has nothing to do with the performance. other kamado dealers have smooth surfaces. these likely require a little more finishing to get smooth.
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@Darby_Crenshaw
Maybe not on a space shuttle, but I was in the ballpark with my thinking/memory.
"Company engineers incorporated new types of ceramics, based on materials initially developed by NASA for the space program, and worked tirelessly to find ways to improve the design, often in small, incremental steps"
From: http://www.biggreenegg.com/about-us/Large, Medium, MiniMax, 36" Blackstone
Grand Rapids MI -
http://www.grc.nasa.gov/WWW/StructuresMaterials/Ceramics/research_structural.html
High Temperature Ceramics for Hypersonic ApplicationsUltra-high temperature ceramics (UHTC), such as ZrB2, HfB2, TaC, ZrC, HfC, and HfN, are a unique class of materials that have extremely high melting temperatures (>3000°C), high hardness, and physically and chemically stable in reactive environments (e.g. in monatomic oxygen) at high temperatures. The unique properties of UHTCs make them useful for reusable atmospheric re-entry vehicles, hypersonic flight vehicles with sharp leading edges, rocket propulsion, etc. Other possible applications of UHTCs are as molten metal crucibles, thermowell tubes for steel refining and as parts for electrical devices such as heaters and igniters.
Probably not the same grade of ceramics though.
Large, Medium, MiniMax, 36" Blackstone
Grand Rapids MI -
Darby_Crenshaw said:see the first reply. that guy knows what he's talking about.
there is no issue. cook on.
warm weather dudes chiming in with the answers.... i don't answer questions about whether it's safe to cook when it's 110% humidity and 98 degrees, or whether to use the ceramic cap if there's an alligator in my yard.
This is great stuff. @Darby_Crenshaw, I guess you are the man to ask about the impact of egg use on the piping plover?XXL BGE, Karebecue, Klose BYC, Chargiller Akorn Kamado, Weber Smokey Mountain, Grand Turbo gasser, Weber Smoky Joe, and the wheelbarrow that my grandfather used to cook steaks from his cattle
San Antonio, TX
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After 8 years of sub zero Canadian egging I don't worry about any of it. I do snuff my egg by closing the daisy wheel which works fine if you're worried about the cap but it won't matter. I just don't remember where I left the cap.
Cook temps in the egg are the same. May need a touch more air to get there but the ribs don't know how cold it is outside the egg.
When my gaskets have frozen, I light some paper in the bottom vent to get the old coals going and that will melt the gasket ice. Don't yank it open frozen because that does peel off the felt.
Best at thing is your beer doesn't warm up when you're egging.
Mt Elgin Ontario - just a Large. -
Foghorn said:
This is great stuff. @Darby_Crenshaw, I guess you are the man to ask about the impact of egg use on the piping plover?
no discernable impact. piping plover has virtually recovered, and the expecation here in NE is that nesting grounds will soon be reopened to the public
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you were in line with your memory of BGE marketing, yes.kl8ton said:@Darby_Crenshaw
Maybe not on a space shuttle, but I was in the ballpark with my thinking/memory.
"Company engineers incorporated new types of ceramics, based on materials initially developed by NASA for the space program, and worked tirelessly to find ways to improve the design, often in small, incremental steps"
From: http://www.biggreenegg.com/about-us/
but let's be clear... when you hear "space shuttle tiles", you think the ones on the bottom. these are essentially 100% silica glass, and 90% air.
this is unrelated in every way to the refractory ceramics used in the BGE.
there are ceramics used elsewhere on the shuttle, where temps are lower, where ceramics may be used that are the same as the BGE stuff, but which and where? dunno.
sure ain't those iconic tiles though.
i'm sure NASA tested all sorts of refractory ceramic formulas, and the BGE may certainly be an offshoot
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Yea, those NASA tiles were auctioned off on the Home Shopping Network and later used in the manufacture of this cooker line:
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Washington, IL > Queen Creek, AZ ... Two large eggs and an adopted Mini Max
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This is not a good idea. You should never use a grill (or a generator) near windows or doors. I seem to recall 20' is the suggested minimum distance. Carbon monoxide.kl8ton said:I just pull the egg close to the sliding glass door so I don't have to step outside.
I hate it when I go to the kitchen for food and all I find are ingredients!
MichaelCentral Connecticut -
@Carolina Q
Well my deck is smaller than 20 x 20 so I can't really move it that far away unless i go to the lawn. Carbon monoxide is nothing to mess with.
Who has their egg more than 20 feet away from their house windows/doors?
Large, Medium, MiniMax, 36" Blackstone
Grand Rapids MI -
I sure don't. Maybe 10' max.------------------------------------------------------------------------LBGE 2013 - MiniMax 2015 - Seemingly every accessory the fine folks at CGS sell - Fightin' Texas Aggie till I die - Gig 'Em - Located in the bright lights of Dallas
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Its currently 9* and its supposed to get down to -13* here tonight. I have a prime brisket ready and will be going on around 11 or 12 tonight. Can't wait to cut into it tomorrow. Haven't had the best of luck with briskets, hopefully I can get over the hump!!
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ive tossed a hot plate setter in a snow bank, no problems, that's what warranty is for. Put your toque on and just giver, lol
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If you want to spend less time outside, do the ribs without foil. Stay inside and let the egg do its job. At 250*, Let them go 5 hours and sauce at the end for 30 minutes to an hour. This will give you nice tender ribs.
Cooking on an XL and Medium in Bethesda, MD. -
You also need to factor in ventilation as well. If you have the egg in an area that gets a consistent breeze, you can set up the grill so the prevailing wind vents emissions away from the structure.kl8ton said:@Carolina Q
Well my deck is smaller than 20 x 20 so I can't really move it that far away unless i go to the lawn. Carbon monoxide is nothing to mess with.
Who has their egg more than 20 feet away from their house windows/doors?North Pittsburgh, PA
1 LGE -
Around here building codes require a 10' distance from windows for generators.Carolina Q said:
This is not a good idea. You should never use a grill (or a generator) near windows or doors. I seem to recall 20' is the suggested minimum distance. Carbon monoxide.kl8ton said:I just pull the egg close to the sliding glass door so I don't have to step outside.Southeast Florida - LBGE
In cooking, often we implement steps for which we have no explanations other than ‘that’s what everybody else does’ or ‘that’s what I have been told.’ Dare to think for yourself. -
This might call for @tarheelmatt to post his "Challenge Yourself " pic..
Greensboro North Carolina
When in doubt Accelerate....
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