Would this be adequate for indirect cooking?

Are you thinking of using that instead of a plate setter?

If the food can't see the fire, it's indirect. so yes,  it would work to block direct radiant heat.

a plate setter has other advantages too though. it provides its own structure and can carry a drip pan, as well as support the grid at felt level.

it also provides some thermal mass, which can help temper things on a longer cook.

but in general, sure.  that can make a fie indirect.  if you have a raised grid, then yeah, you could put your metal tray on the regular grid, then put the raised grid over it.  this will raise the grid above the felt level though, so you might get more heat from being higher up in the dome.

i have used simple heavy duty foil instead of a platter like you are proposing.  after, i just crumpled it up and tossed it out.  no cleaning

"indirect' means nothing more than that the radiant energy is blocked.  imagine it is hotter than hell outside.  when you raise your hand to block the sun, you are blocking the radiant energy from your face.  but the ambient temp is unchanged. it's still hotter than hell, but your face is in shade

quote: But the blocking material will eventually heat up.

yep.

but this is why i use the HD foil.  not enough mass to heat up, but still blocks the radiant heat well.  slightly cheaper than gold the foil on a lunar lander, but achieves the same thing (although the aluminum will probably corrode eventually, the gold no)

99 times out of ten i use the PS, but foil can work pretty well as a radiant heat shield. 

That's a drip pan and a very good drip pan to set on a plate setter or other piece for indirect. How long do you plan on cooking indirect if most of the time like I do I would pass.

One thing to consider is the routing of probe wires from a temp controller or a remote thermometer. I use a platesetter and always route my DigiQ cables over one of the PS legs so they aren't hit with direct heat. I've occasionally wondered what the AR crowd uses for shielding (just wrapped in foil?) or if it really doesn't matter.

Jeepster47 said:

You might want to rethink that particular size pan for a large egg.  Here are some dimensions for stuff I use in my large eggs:

BGE plate setter center diameter = 12.5"
CGS stone diameter for large spider = 13"
CGS drip pan diameter that fits the large = 14"

our 16 stainless pan fits the platesetter perfectly if you want coverage to fit to the legs. 

jeepster47, thanks for helping out.

t

@tjv ... doesn't look like I really helped, if you recommend the 16" to cover the plate setter.  I've got one of your 16" stainless steel pans, but felt it was a little too big for the large.  Thanks for the post ... I'll check it out again.

Jeepster47 said:

@tjv ... doesn't look like I really helped, if you recommend the 16" to cover the plate setter.  I've got one of your 16" stainless steel pans, but felt it was a little too big for the large.  Thanks for the post ... I'll check it out again.

If the platesetter is out of the fire ring notches the 16" pan is 5/8" above the fire ring.  the pan is tapered so the full 16 is closer to 1.5 inches above the fire ring.   at that height, it's the egg's inner wall that is the outer boundary for the pan.  should be fine.  

a 16 straight edge pan, that can be different dynamics.  

t

Jeepster47 said:

Carolina Q said:

... I've occasionally wondered what the AR crowd uses for shielding (just wrapped in foil?) or if it really doesn't matter.

The oval stone covers from the back to the front of the egg.  I usually run the wires in through the front of the egg and place the probe over the oval stone right there at the front.

As to aluminum foil ... I use it ... but then, I'm a belt and suspenders type of guy.  My son doesn't use aluminum foil and I do ... we'll see what happens down the road.

really no need to worry about how one runs wire above the fire ring now days.  all the conventional manufacturers use metal braided sheathing to protect the wires.  The old days, it was a silicon sheathing that was good to 500 degrees and needed some basic protecting.   

t