Would this be adequate for indirect cooking?

rmercier

For use as a heat deflector?

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=371376961384&globalID=EBAY-US 

Black_Badger

Maybe (probably) not on it's own, but it would probably depend pretty significantly on the temp of the cook. One thing to try if you decide to pick it up is filling it with clean sand. I've done that before with a shallow 'drip pan' like that and it worked well. You can also wet the sand a bit to add a touch more moisture to the cooking environment.

Would be interested in how it goes if you decide to pull the trigger.

Cheers -
B_B

johnkitchens

Are you thinking of using that instead of a plate setter?

rmercier

Yes John, that is what I was thinking

Darby_Crenshaw

If the food can't see the fire, it's indirect. so yes,  it would work to block direct radiant heat.

a plate setter has other advantages too though. it provides its own structure and can carry a drip pan, as well as support the grid at felt level.

it also provides some thermal mass, which can help temper things on a longer cook.

but in general, sure.  that can make a fie indirect.  if you have a raised grid, then yeah, you could put your metal tray on the regular grid, then put the raised grid over it.  this will raise the grid above the felt level though, so you might get more heat from being higher up in the dome.

i have used simple heavy duty foil instead of a platter like you are proposing.  after, i just crumpled it up and tossed it out.  no cleaning

"indirect' means nothing more than that the radiant energy is blocked.  imagine it is hotter than hell outside.  when you raise your hand to block the sun, you are blocking the radiant energy from your face.  but the ambient temp is unchanged. it's still hotter than hell, but your face is in shade

gdenby

Anything that just blocks the IR from the lump will make the cook "indirect." The energy coming off the lump as IR is very intense. But the blocking material will eventually heat up. The problem with iron and steel as cookware is that it transmits heat so quickly that hot spots are transferred to their upper surface.

While I think that if you kept the stainless clean on the bottom side, it would not only block but reflect the IR, but there might be uneven cooking above it.

I guess I need to do an experiment. I've got an iron baking steel, and I'll fire up an Egg and see how hot the top surface becomes.

If you want to save a few $ cause you already have a 2 tier grate set up, check out ceramic stores for kiln shelves. (platesetter is a term borrowed from standard kiln furniture. )

Darby_Crenshaw

quote: But the blocking material will eventually heat up.

yep.

but this is why i use the HD foil.  not enough mass to heat up, but still blocks the radiant heat well.  slightly cheaper than gold the foil on a lunar lander, but achieves the same thing (although the aluminum will probably corrode eventually, the gold no)

99 times out of ten i use the PS, but foil can work pretty well as a radiant heat shield. 

rmercier

Thanks for the info (as always). I'm sure that I will end up getting the plate setter in the long run...just weighing my options

Grillmagic

That's a drip pan and a very good drip pan to set on a plate setter or other piece for indirect. How long do you plan on cooking indirect if most of the time like I do I would pass.

Jeepster47

You might want to rethink that particular size pan for a large egg.  Here are some dimensions for stuff I use in my large eggs:

BGE plate setter center diameter = 12.5"
CGS stone diameter for large spider = 13"
CGS drip pan diameter that fits the large = 14"

Carolina Q

One thing to consider is the routing of probe wires from a temp controller or a remote thermometer. I use a platesetter and always route my DigiQ cables over one of the PS legs so they aren't hit with direct heat. I've occasionally wondered what the AR crowd uses for shielding (just wrapped in foil?) or if it really doesn't matter.

fishlessman

Carolina Q said:

One thing to consider is the routing of probe wires from a temp controller or a remote thermometer. I use a platesetter and always route my DigiQ cables over one of the PS legs so it isn't hit with direct heat. I've occasionally wondered what the AR crowd uses for shielding (just wrapped in foil?) or if it really doesn't matter.

the maverick directions used to say NO foil, but some cant help themselves and foil away.

tjv

Jeepster47 said:

You might want to rethink that particular size pan for a large egg.  Here are some dimensions for stuff I use in my large eggs:

BGE plate setter center diameter = 12.5"
CGS stone diameter for large spider = 13"
CGS drip pan diameter that fits the large = 14"

our 16 stainless pan fits the platesetter perfectly if you want coverage to fit to the legs. 

jeepster47, thanks for helping out.

t

Ladeback69

When I do a reverse sear steak I use my 12" CI skillet and a raised grid to make the switch to direct quick and easy.  I am only at the most 300 to 350 when doing this.  It could be used, but i prefer the plate setter.

Jeepster47

@tjv ... doesn't look like I really helped, if you recommend the 16" to cover the plate setter.  I've got one of your 16" stainless steel pans, but felt it was a little too big for the large.  Thanks for the post ... I'll check it out again.

Jeepster47

Carolina Q said:

... I've occasionally wondered what the AR crowd uses for shielding (just wrapped in foil?) or if it really doesn't matter.

The oval stone covers from the back to the front of the egg.  I usually run the wires in through the front of the egg and place the probe over the oval stone right there at the front.

As to aluminum foil ... I use it ... but then, I'm a belt and suspenders type of guy.  My son doesn't use aluminum foil and I do ... we'll see what happens down the road.

tjv

Jeepster47 said:

@tjv ... doesn't look like I really helped, if you recommend the 16" to cover the plate setter.  I've got one of your 16" stainless steel pans, but felt it was a little too big for the large.  Thanks for the post ... I'll check it out again.

If the platesetter is out of the fire ring notches the 16" pan is 5/8" above the fire ring.  the pan is tapered so the full 16 is closer to 1.5 inches above the fire ring.   at that height, it's the egg's inner wall that is the outer boundary for the pan.  should be fine.  

a 16 straight edge pan, that can be different dynamics.  

t

Jeepster47

@tjv ... thanks for the feedback.  I use the PSWoo2, so the plate setter is definitely out of the notches.  Plus, three 1/2 ceramic kiln posts to hold the drip pan up off the plate setter.

PS: Kiln posts, to use as spacers, would be a nice addition to your inventory.

tjv

Jeepster47 said:

Carolina Q said:

... I've occasionally wondered what the AR crowd uses for shielding (just wrapped in foil?) or if it really doesn't matter.

The oval stone covers from the back to the front of the egg.  I usually run the wires in through the front of the egg and place the probe over the oval stone right there at the front.

As to aluminum foil ... I use it ... but then, I'm a belt and suspenders type of guy.  My son doesn't use aluminum foil and I do ... we'll see what happens down the road.

really no need to worry about how one runs wire above the fire ring now days.  all the conventional manufacturers use metal braided sheathing to protect the wires.  The old days, it was a silicon sheathing that was good to 500 degrees and needed some basic protecting.   

t