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    carridge bolt replacement

    Posts: 1,593
    in EggHead Forum
    What metal is best for replacing the carridge bolts if in a bind? 

    Stores here carry zinc,stainless and galvinized bolts.Does any tolerate the heat better or does it not matter.Galvinized seem to thick to fit square hole of bands from what i remember.

    thanks.
    Hows ya gettin' on, me ol ****? 



    Kippens.Newfoundland and Labrador. (Canada).
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    • Posts: 19,718
      stainless and I keep a couple of extras
      Salado TX & 30A  FL: Egg Family: 3 Large and a very well used Mini, added a Mini Max when they came out (I'm good for now). Just given a Mini to add to the herd. 

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    • Posts: 98
      Anything with a grade 5 rating or stainless which is normally very close to grade 5 should work just fine. If you use stainless bolts with stainless nuts be sure to use some anti-sneeze to avoid binding which is common on stainless.
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    • Posts: 28,817
      pswarren said:
      Anything with a grade 5 rating or stainless which is normally very close to grade 5 should work just fine. If you use stainless bolts with stainless nuts be sure to use some anti-sneeze to avoid binding which is common on stainless.
      Anti-sneeze? Accursed auto correct
      :D

      Steve 

      Caledon, ON

       

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    • Posts: 14,414
      Little Steven said:

      show previous quotes
      Anti-sneeze? Accursed auto correct
      :D

      Around these parts we call it benadryl or claritin. :)
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    • Posts: 98
      Oops, just shove a bolt in each nostril and your good to go.
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    • Posts: 203
      Maybe a bit overkill, but I like Grade 8 bolts.  I have a little more confidence in the yield and tension capabilities in the Grade 8 compared to a Grade 5.
      Large BGE, Medium BGE, Kamado Joe Jr, 36" Blackstone Griddle Blackstone Tailgater and Roccbox owner/operator from Los Angeles
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    • Posts: 1,593
      What are the markings that show grade on cartridge bolts ?
      Hows ya gettin' on, me ol ****? 



      Kippens.Newfoundland and Labrador. (Canada).
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    • Posts: 298
      edited September 2013
      http://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/materials-and-grades/bolt-grade-chart.aspx Could not find a chart specific to carriage bolts
      Gambrills,Maryland

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    • Posts: 1,593
      Thanks for the info,if I go with SS how impt is this anti seeze or no bind spray?
      Hows ya gettin' on, me ol ****? 



      Kippens.Newfoundland and Labrador. (Canada).
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    • Posts: 28,817
      I think we are over-thinking this my son. Never heard of a bolt shearing in a band. If you want stainless carriage bolts e-mail me and I'll get you some

      Steve 

      Caledon, ON

       

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    • Posts: 298
      I would use it for stainless, they have a natural ability to bind easily.
      Gambrills,Maryland

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    • Posts: 1,838
        I would use stainless since it is a more malleable than a grade 8 which would be brittle in comparison and you actually want the bolts to bend. The stainless would also be rust resistant. I'd pass on the never-seize since it's nasty stuff that gets on everything and wouldn't want it around food. After you torque the bolts to spec their bent and you can't reuse them anyway. Last time I went to take some off they just stripped because when they bend it distorts the threads so I just cut it with some bolt cutters. You don't want to try cutting grade 8s with bolt cutters. Just my 2 cents.   
      XLBGE, LBGE, MBGE, SMALL, MINI, 2 Kubs, Fire Magic Gasser
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    • Posts: 1,593
      td66snrf said:

        I would use stainless since it is a more malleable than a grade 8 which would be brittle in comparison and you actually want the bolts to bend. The stainless would also be rust resistant. I'd pass on the never-seize since it's nasty stuff that gets on everything and wouldn't want it around food. After you torque the bolts to spec their bent and you can't reuse them anyway. Last time I went to take some off they just stripped because when they bend it distorts the threads so I just cut it with some bolt cutters. You don't want to try cutting grade 8s with bolt cutters. Just my 2 cents.   

      Interesting... I have always managed to reuse my bolts after an band adjustment even though the bolts were bent!

      Maybe that's my problem ...strpped bolts/nuts?
      Hows ya gettin' on, me ol ****? 



      Kippens.Newfoundland and Labrador. (Canada).
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    • Posts: 8,524
      edited September 2013
      Like my Clarendon cousin, I think you might be over thinking this. A grade 5 bolt, carriage or otherwise is pretty much coasting at 120" pounds of torque. Chances are the unrated bolts and nuts on your daughter's bicycle are torqued tighter. 
      The reason these things bend is because the bands are soft steel. They do not hold their shape and provide a solid surface allowing the force of the bolt/nut to be applied across a surface that stays perpendicular to the center line of the bolt. Once you have this unstable condition the grade of the bolt really does not matter, you are not using it as it is intended to be used. These look a lot like the OEM bolts on most eggs I've seen, full thread and black. 
      Torque to spec and you will be fine. 
      Delta B.C. - Whiskey and steak, because no good story ever started with someone having a salad!
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    • Posts: 1,189
      edited September 2013
      The old mechanics rule of thumb is to add 2 to the number of radial lines on the head of the bolt to establish the grade.  i.e. a bolt with 3 lines is a grade 5.  The sometime exception to this is stainless bolts which may be marked differently or not at all and of course metrics as can be seen on the chart above.  I just went out to my Egg and the carriage bolts have 3 lines and are dull silver colored so I would say they are grade 5 mild steel with zinc plating.   Higher tensile strength bolts are not always the best in every application, for this I would stay with grade 5.  I am quite sure the grade 8 bolts would not bend as recommended so might easily be over torqued if you are not using a torque wrench.
      A poor widows son.
      See der Rabbits, Iowa
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    • Posts: 172
      Is there a rule of thumb for how many pounds of torque they should be tightened?

      New Brunswick, Canada

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    • Posts: 1,593
      10 ft/lbs
      Hows ya gettin' on, me ol ****? 



      Kippens.Newfoundland and Labrador. (Canada).
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