Welcome to the EGGhead Forum - a great place to visit and packed with tips and EGGspert advice! You can also join the conversation and get more information and amazing kamado recipes by following Big Green Egg to Experience our World of Flavor™ at:
Facebook  |  Twitter  |  Instagram  |  Pinterest  |  Youtube  |  Vimeo
Share your photos by tagging us and using the hashtag #BigGreenEgg.

Want to see how the EGG is made? Click to Watch

wood types

koiandfood
koiandfood Posts: 13
edited November -1 in EGG Table Forum
I have a nest for my XL right now, but looking at what what you guys have built...

Anyway I want to build a table for next to my egg nothing fancy just basic 2 shelf thing. i was wondering if any one had any suggestions on a durable wood type that wouldnt break the buget. I was thinking cedar, but if there is something cheaper that would hold up in a pittsburgh winter.
I wouldnt mind sealing it if I have to

Comments

  • vidalia1
    vidalia1 Posts: 7,092
    Cedar probably is the most common wood people use...and yes definitely seal it with 2-4 coats of marine spar polyurethane...it will look so much better and last a lot longer.
  • as flashback bob always says, use whatever you might build a boat from.....

    i just got some mahogany decking for 1.75 a linear foot, with stuff on craigslist going for a buck less (if i wanted to travel and coordinate a day to do it).

    mahogany and cedar (as well as the BGE cypress) will go naturally silver grey if not sealed pr protected. looks great in an ideal world, but food stains are an issue. we have a teak dining set (outdoor), and as much as i like it, the wood goes grey very quickly, needs gentle refinishing if you want to keep its color, and yet takes in stains (think lobster butter) too easily. i'm considering sealing it, but options for sealing teak are few.

    not so for mahogany and other exterior grade finish woods.

    please ignore pressure treated, which has virtually no value when used as a finish wood, and i think synthetics are as prone to staining from food (oils) as well. they (synths) are also quite a bit less dense and not at all structural. they also tend to be fat and ugly in proportion (to make them a little stronger), and are 5/4x6. the old 1x4 is so much nicer in scale.

    cedar is affordable, especially considering its longevity and ability to be refinished if necessary, repaired, worked with...

    check out a good old-fashioned lumber yard and ask about wood decking options.

    here's a pic of the mahogany steps (treated but not quite 'sealed' with Australian Timber Oil').

    0595-Percent.jpg

    still have more to do (deck over the concrete upper surface), but the wood looks great and was pretty affordable even with the extra dollar per linear foo premium from my 'needing it today'. that's 75 linear feet (yielded about 7x3 feet), paid about $130. ...coulda gotten it for half that off craigslist, which i'll do for the deck. it's tough, too. i had my sons go up and down them in their football cleats. no issue. try to make sure it is sustainably harvested, but the politics of that are another issue.

    (ps, that cr^ppy corrugated aluminum gutter at top, on the second tread, is on the way out too! hahaha sorry. it's the architect in me, can't help pointing out the issues with it...)
  • Little Steven
    Little Steven Posts: 28,817
    st!ke,

    Are the risers drywall? Doesn't look like cement board

    Steve

    Steve 

    Caledon, ON

     

  • pre-primed wood...

    that exterior spackle is new for me. i usually use a wood filler that works a little different, but the guy recommended that exterior spackle. meh. >shrugs< it's ok, but yeah, looks like drywall

    needs sanding, primer (white) and paint
  • Little Steven
    Little Steven Posts: 28,817
    Gotcha, I like the interior spackling more than of mud for small patches.

    Steve

    Steve 

    Caledon, ON

     

  • Nice project - I like doing stuff like that and especially like working with nice wood. I like the contrast of the plugs.

    There is an artichoke (architect :) ) on a weekend radio show that says all gutters are good for is to rot your facial board. He promotes (key word $) a product that disperses the water in a spray like fashion coming off the roof so you don't end up with a trench around the house. I think it is called rainhandler and looks like a venetian blind. But I don't like water pouring on me from the roof while going into the house.