Replacing Gasket Question

Jasper

Is there any reason you should only replace the gasket as one continuous piece? I'd like to replace my gasket but I don't want to detach the lid and base to do this. And I'd find it easier, especially the lid, to replace the gasket in 1/4 sections rather than the whole circumference as one piece.

Jupiter Jim

Jasper, need more info as to what kind of gasket you will be using.
I just did my large a few weeks ago, used a cotronics it was self adhesive just peel and stick. I only did the bottom and did not remove the top. Had dinner then went out and scraped off the old one cleaned with acetone and stuck on the new one done by 9:00 pm. I thought it was easy.
http://www.cotronics.com/vo/cotr/
395-81PS, 397-81PS . . . 1/8" x 1" x 50'
I would not want to have 4 joints in the gasket.
Good luck Jupiter Jim

Jasper

Thanks for the info.

I would be replacing the original gasket with the same felt material the egg originally comes with. They gave me a spare original gasket kit with my egg...the dealer put on the one that's there now and they didn't do a very good job.

Parts of the lid gasket had already fallen off after a few cooks so I replaced some of it in sections. The same is now happening with the base gasket. Since I already replaced pieces of the top I'm wondering if that's a big no-no. It looks ok, you can't tell it's been done in sections.

I will eventually replace it all with something like a Nomex gasket.

I would not want to have 4 joints in the gasket.

Is there a reason for that or is it just for appearance?

Thanks again for the help.

gdenby

I've replaced the gaskets on my mediums several times without taking the dome off. I haven't noticed any real problems, other than having to work with my head bent over and my hands in a cramped space.

I think fewer gasket "joints" would be better. My experience is that the seam is the first place to erode with time. Even a little seapage thru the crack has an effect.

Whatever the reason, new gaskets seem to fail more often than old. My theory is that the crud that builds up along the inner side forms a very good seal. The last time I replaced a gasket, the felt came off easier than the cinder-ized stuff along the edge.

Grand Oeuf Vert

Jasper,
I've replaced my gasket in one piece with no trouble. I would think that air gaps could develop if you put it on in sections.
Head to a Fastenal Store and pick up a can of 3M Super77 spray adhesive. Works great to really stick that sucker on.

Kokeman

I just ordered a nomex material from here and I will be doing them in one piece.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#aramid-cloth/=6dwbre
part #8796K52

Humphrey Chimpden Earwicker

for me, the weak spot had always been the joint in the gasket, but that may have been because mine occurred under the hinge, at rear. there's a little rubbing that occurs on mine (or, it used to), and that caused my gasket to come loose eventually.

i would try doing it with one continuous piece, you don't need to apply the adhesive all at once just because the thing is one piece. adhere it in sections like you would if it were in separate pieces.

Frank from Houma

My entire gasket fell off my mini on the second cook. It basically just slid off - adhesive issue, not fried.

Dealer had given me a spare and I put it on with the 3M and worked fine for quite a while. but I have since fried it with high temp sears. :unsure: I'll prolly replace one day just to have a little cushion on closing - it behaves quite well since I'm not doing any low and slow cooks on the mini.

If you have a spare with the adhesive on the gasket, I would suggest using the 3M Super 77 spray adhesive as well. Spray it in a paper cup and apply with a brush so you don't get overspray on your egg.

Good luck with it

"Gasketless mini in South Texas"

SmokinGuitarPlayer

Jasper , nomex is a trade name and also has a burn temp of 700 degrees. I checked out the stuff at mcmaster and it looks like it has 428degrees burn temp. Still much better than the original felt.

After doing hundreds of these jobs, I can tell you that it is a LOT better just removing the dome. you will NEVER get all the gunk off correctly back where the hinge is ..and that is the most critical area. Also , you will have to loosen the dome completely anyway to adjust all the gaps and make sure things are seated correctly. Do yourself a favor and just remove the dome, flip it over into the base for a work "holder" ... if you check my videos, you can see how easy it all is and you will be happier doing the job correctly the first time.

Jasper

Yes, I've watched your videos, they are great BTW, and I'm just not comfortable taking it apart yet. It came assembled for me and I just know if I take it apart it will never go back together the same. Yes, I'm a chicken. :laugh:

Maybe after a couple of years of ownership I'll be ready to take it apart.

Thanks for all the replies, I have a Dremel with a wire attachment that can get in some pretty tight places. I'll use that when it comes time to clean it up.