Ceramic Tile on Egg Table, anyone know how to do it?

Squeeze

Just got a new table and am thinking that I really like the look of the tiled tops that I see on TNW's table page. How do you do it and are there any how-tos anywhere. Thanks![p]-Kevin

Chef Wil

<p />Squeeze,
I am not pro at ceramics and woodworking, but I can tell you I put dark green ceramic on my table and have not had any problems (YET) I used liquid nails to glue ceramic to the table top, I did not use any fillers, cuz I heard they get ugly, I just butted them close together.

chuckls

Squeeze,[p]I haven't done it yet, but I plan to tile my table with glass tiles. Since I already have "broken in" the table, my plan is to get some thin underlayment from Home Depot, some tile adhesive, and some grout. All that's missing then is a round 'toit.[p]Remember to post pics of your table when you're done![p]Chuck[p][p]

Squeeze

Chef Wil,
Did you put the tiles directly to the wood top? Was the wood stained or sealed before you did it? I am wondering if I need to screw some Luon (sp) on first as a backer. Just wondering....

nikkig

<p />Squeeze,
It wsa a very easy process. Here is a step by step on how we did our table. If I remember right, the place we got our tiles sold us the stuff to stick them to the board. We did use grout, just not a light color. We also put a sealer on the grout, and have no problems with stains. Every once in awhile, I just go out there with some soapy water and scrub it down. [p]~nikki
[ul][li]Our Egg[/ul]

Shelby

Squeeze,
I went to Home Depot and asked how. Was given easy directions, etc...came out great.[p]

Chef Wil

Squeeze,
I had used a finish that had stain built in, then I decided to cover it, I just light sanded the area then applied the liquid nails.

Bob V

If you really want to do it right, you should use cement backerboard (blueboard) as the base for the tile. No matter how well you seal, if it is outside plywood will eventually give way. The cement board provides a flat, impervious surface for the tile, and can be cut with regular saws.[p]Bob V

Spring Chicken

Bob V,
I was just about to post the same message. You are absolutely correct about using the backer board under the tile. I should also point out that in areas where the temperature is extremely cold (Anything north of Waco TX) you should use porcelain tile instead of ceramic tile. Ceramic will crack in extreme weather conditions. Be aware that porcelain tile is extremely hard and you may have a problem cutting curves without proper equipment. You will also want to put a sealer in the grout lines to protect from moisture and food or grease stains.[p]Spring Chicken
Spring Texas USA

Citizen Q

Squeeze,
If this table is going to be out in the open, exposed to the elements, you have to get it right if you want it to last more than a couple of years, especially if you experience freezing temps in the winter. You should start by covering the table with a CEMENT backer board, secured with screws every 8 inches. Find a nice Type IV porcelain tile rated for exterior use and you'll also need an exterior use rated thinset mortar. LATICRETE makes the best thinset that I've used, it's available from most tile retailers and wholesalers, but you can save some money if you can get to a Lowe's, they carry the brand but they may not stock the exterior formula so you may have to order it.[p]You will also need an exterior rated grout, I would space the tile 1/4" and use an unsanded grout. When the grout has properly cured (hopefully indoors) you will need to seal it well, 3 or 4 coats of a good penetrating sealer, so buy the $30 bottle, not the $7 junk.[p]Good Luck,
C~Q

Spring Chicken

Citizen Q,
That's what I tried to say. You just said it a heck of a lot better. Thanks for pitching in with the details.[p]Spring Chicken

tach18k

Citizen Q, I have found that unsanded grout over 3/16 inch does not perform well and cracks over time, I prefer a sanded grout, and for outdoor use you can color a good thinset and use that as grout.

Unknown

tach18k,
Thanks for catching that, you are absolutely correct, I should have said SANDED grout.[p]You can use thinset as grout, but I'd recommend applying with a grout bag and masonry pointing tool rather than a grout float and immediatly cleaning any excess to avoid having to clean up with a chisel. Don't ever use the thinset mortars that are precolored and formulated to be used as grout, they don't work either as mortar or as grout.[p]Cheers,
C~Q