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Expanded metal fire bowl grate an improvement?
Judy Mayberry
Posts: 2,015
Has anyone tried an expanded metal grate for the Small Egg fire bowl, and if it can raise the max temperature, can anybody make me one?
Judy in San Diego
Comments
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I have seen some posts were folks have said the expanded metal 'melts'.
Oxygen + Fuel = Heat.
For higher temperatures try making sure the fire in the lump is wide, that is across the surface of the lump with some depth. You can accomplish this with multiple start points and the feed the fire with a small airflow fan.
Also, make sure the holes in the fire grate and fire box are not at all blocked. The use of a wiggle stick can help you out with clearing the holes.
If the burn is not developing as you wish then go in from the top and make some air paths from the fire grate up through the lump.
GG -
GG: What is a wiggle stick? I've been away from the forum for a while.
As for starting the fire in a Small, I always check the grate holes and ashes below, remove all the old lump, put in fresh lump and top it with any of the old lump that is size-worthy. Every few times I remove the fire ring and bowl and clean the whole thing out. (The fire bowl cracked into three or four pieces years ago, but it seems to have glued itself together, probably with grease). I light with a Mapp torch at three points and get a good deep fire going. I've tried Ward's fire building and eyeball fire building, but it never gets a whole lot over 600°.
Where do you hold the fan? At the vent, or on top? I tried it once at the vent, but the temp dropped as soon as I took the fan away. Maybe the air paths will do it. I'll try that next time.
Thanks for the help.
JudyJudy in San Diego -
I keep calling it a wiggle stick, actually a wiggle rod.
Some use a coat hanger but I find that a little flimsy. I went to home depot and got some 3/16" rod and bent one end into an "L", actually 2 "L's", one to go up in to the fire grate and one on the other end for a handle.
The lentgh of the "L" that goes into the lower vent has to be cut so you can get it into the lower vent and then get it up to clear out the holes in the fire grate.
When I need air, I use a 2 AA hand held personal fan I picked up at walmart for $3. With the dome open, I hold the fan over the lump. The flame will develop better if the air is moving over the top of the lump rather than trying to force air through the bottom vent.
Take a look at the following link. I didn't use a fan nor did I use a wiggle stick on this test. This was my medium with all used old small pieces of lump.
http://www.eggheadforum.com/index.php?option=com_simpleboard&func=view&id=658956&catid=1
GG -
I read your link. What is "DFMT off bottom screen"? My Eggs are too old to have that new-fangled screen (on the vent, right?).
I'm gonna try making an airway in the middle of the lump. I'll let you know!
Now what is this about alcohol as a fuel? What concentration? I have antiseptic alcohol at home--will that do? Thanks for the help.Judy in San Diego -
DFMT = Dual Function Metal Top (daisy). Otherwise the top vent of the dome is unrestricted.
If you egg is very old, guessing a 1.5 years, the spark screen would not have been included. Contact BGE for a screen for your eggs.
Lighting, light in 4 spots close to the outside of the center plus center.
For now light as you normally do.
Here is the YouTube link for part 1 of a multiple part instructions of using alcohol to light the egg.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xWZUrtaEb-U&feature=PlayList&p=7FFB1266EABFD3E4&index=2
I had to modify a little for using this at my altitude.
Using alcohol leaves no residue or odor when lighting.
I also like using paper towel & oil.
GG -
I've been using expanded stainless steel for some time. It won't melt. In the large cooker, it slowly deformed to forum a nice bowl shape, but in the small and medium cookers it pretty much held its shape.The Naked Whiz
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