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Adjusting Dome Fit During Gasket Change
2cats
Posts: 34
Prior to my gasket failure:

the dome was a little higher in the back. I'd like to take the opportunity, while removing the dome and changing gasket, to attempt a better fit. Is it enough to simply loosen the big bent bolt for the dome and re-fit, or is it necessary, or desirable, to loosen the fasteners that hold the band to the hinge, and is it necessary or desirable to work on the bottom band fit, as well?
Many thanks,
Joe

the dome was a little higher in the back. I'd like to take the opportunity, while removing the dome and changing gasket, to attempt a better fit. Is it enough to simply loosen the big bent bolt for the dome and re-fit, or is it necessary, or desirable, to loosen the fasteners that hold the band to the hinge, and is it necessary or desirable to work on the bottom band fit, as well?
Many thanks,
Joe
Comments
-
Ok.. here's what I found...
I had the exact same issue. What I found that if you loosen the eight bolts that hold the hinge to the bands BEFORE you retighten the bands, the lid will sit better (and align properly). Once you have the bands fairly tight (but not bent yet), tighten the eight bolts..
don't forget to pull up the top, and push down the bottom bands every couple turns of the screws.
I did this, and had a perfect dollar bill test! -
Talking about a large egg, there are mixed feelings on loosening the 8 smaller bolts (band to hinge).
I tried the loosen all bolts fitting the dome then tightening. My result was that the hinge itself locked up. I had to force the dome open and apply a lot of pressure to close the dome down.
I ended up taking the band off and making sure the bands themselves were not torqued by laying them flat on the cement. I then connected the bands to the hinge and tightened.
Then put the band/hinge assembly on the egg. Snugged up the lower band making sure the band was seated fully down against the ceramic ridge. I then tightened more and again made sure hte band was fully down. I tapped a block of wood with a hammer to seat the band down.
Third tightening was pretty tight but not bold bend tight and again made sure the band was fully down.
Each tightening step I checked the dollar bill test (see note below).
I then moved up to the upper band and again tightened in 3 steps.
Hinge worked as it should and I ended up with a very nice fit.
At that point I tightened both bands to bolt bend point.
Dollar bill test... I used 20# type paper cut the width of a dollar bill and 11" long. I put in enough sheets between the dome and base with about 1/2 inch showing to the outside of the egg, leaving me with enough length to check the alignment throughout the tightening process.
I used a 1 - 5 ranking. 1 being almost free sliding and 5 being the paper would tear if I pulled any harder. I made sure the pull was a 3 or above before I proceeded to tighten further.
The reason I got to this procedure is that I had 8 gasket failures with the older gaskets. Those older gasket sets didn't have the adhesive failure that is being reported in the past 6 to 8 months.
The above procedure resolved the gasket problem on my large and it still has the felt gasket on it.
However, on my medium following the above procedure led me to find there apparently was a manufacturing problem in the egg itself. The dome and base were replaced under warranty. Now, so far so good.
GG -
edit: *this reply written prior to GranpasGrub reply*
That makes sense. In the Spring Assisted Band Instruction Manual, everything begins finger tight. Then you tighten the big bendable carriage bolts; then you tighten the eight band/hinge bolts. I guess the important thing is that none of these processes shift the dome away from the base. -
It would be interesting to find out which method is correct.
The hinge to band bolts have no adjustment ability as they are pushed/pressured into the hinge itself. If the ridges on the bolt head are damaged the bolt will just spin when trying to tighten the nut.
The diameter of the hole in the band itself has very little room if any for play so I wonder if there is was any intention for for adjustment there.
Nevertheless, if it worked for you then great. As I said below when I used the 8 hinge bolts for adjustment it just bound up the hinge assembly.
If I think of it, maybe I will call Bruce and ask them.
Just thinking out loud - of sorts. GG -
Interesting, my dealer assembled each of my 4 eggs and I never saw an instruction manual with regard to the band assembly.
If BGE is saying tighten the bands bolts first then the hinge bolts, I stand corrected - thanks for letting me know.
GG -
I'm beginning to suspect that what is "correct" is whatever works.
-
I followed the "official" instructions when I re-assembled our Large Egg to correct some problems with the dealer's assembly. It passed the dollar bill test with flying colors, and is still doing well almost a year later with the original felt gasket. If only our Small Egg was a simple.
When the Small is assembled with the bands uniformly against the rib all around the perimeter there is a sizable gap between the upper and lower gaskets in the left rear (at about 10:30 o'clock). After numerous experiments and burning out two gaskets I hit on the idea of (1) assembling the Egg as described above with the band bolts tightened, (2) using a cedar shingle as a shim with a dollar bill to measure the gap, (3) loosening the top band bolt, (4) moving the shingle 180º opposite the location of the gap to "pre-load" the lid, (5) jiggling the top band to get it "comfortably" seated and (6) tightening the band bolts. The result is a pretty good dollar bill test all around and, more importantly, a Small Egg that shuts down even faster than our Large.
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