Steakhouse Steaks and Fillets

BBQBluesStringer

There's been a lot of talk lately about steakhouse steak methods on the forum, so I thought I would share what little I know about the subject. I'm particularly fond of fillets, so I'll restrict my comments to them.[p]First not all fillets are fillets. Some that you get at restaurants are outright fakes. Know your butcher! Fillets are cross-cut from the tenderloin muscle in the cow's back. It is not responsible for movement and does not support any weight, so it is usually very tender. It is also usually very lean, which can be its downfall. A proper fillet should be cut evenly so that it is the same thickness all the way across, and the shape should be more or less round. You can compensate somewhat for an uneven thickness by tieing a string around the girth and cinching it up until the muscle puffs up. Don't buy a steak like this if you can avoid it, and don't buy odd-shaped fillets. Most likely what you are buying is something cut from what grocers refer to as the tenderloin butt. A tenderloin butt is the irregularly shaped ends of a tenderloin packaged up and labeled "Tenderloin Butt". There is no such thing on a cow, so buyer beware. If you're feeding lots of people, buy a whole tenderloin and slice it yourself. If the chain (flabby portion that runs along the bottom of the tenderloin) has not been removed, don't pay top dollar for it. You'll be cutting that portion off and throwing it away. Now, how to cook one of these bad-boys "steakhouse style"...[p]I'll say right up front, TRex is dead on! Any steakhouse worth its salt sears at a high temperature to create a flavorful crust, then roasts (yes, ROASTS) the steak at 425 until it reaches the desired doneness. I mentioned leanness being a problem with the fillet. You have to burn some fat to get that exceptionally delicious crust or char on the outside of a steak. This is where the Ruth's Chris butter experient came in. Steakhouses will typically pan sear a fillet at 550 or more in a couple tablespoons of clarified butter (milk solids in regular butter burn too easily and taste nasty when they do). They get 2-3 minutes per side, depending on the sear temperature, and then get roasted until they are done. If you don't pan sear, but sear over an open flame, you have to rub the fillets thoroughly with clarified butter. Rub it in good and plenty because this is the only source of fat to help create the crust. Once they reach near the desired doneness, they are removed from the oven, plated, and rested for about five minutes (often that's how long it takes for the server to pick them up).[p]When plated, some steakhouses will add a flavored butter, or often just plain butter, to the steak. It improves mouth feel and visual appeal, so I recommend it highly. Even if they put the flavored butter on the side, you can bet the steak has been brushed with either plain or clarified butter. It makes it shine, and look real juicy, and it feels good in your mouth.[p]Steakhouses generally don't do much about seasoning a steak. Unless you order something with a ground peppercorn crust or something similar, all you'll get is a little course salt and ground pepper. Marinades are in the eyes of the beholders. Some do (a local German steakhouse here does) but most don't unless it is specifically stated in the description of the item on the menu. I like to marinade fillets because they have such a mild flavor (no fat, remember?). If you do marinade, pull them out and pat them dry an hour before cooking. You want the butter or oil to be able to penetrate well into the flesh and not float off in excess liquid, especially if you're going to grill them.[p]Okay, that's my fillet brain-dump. Hope that helps answer some questions and stimulates some appetites![p]BBS-[p]

QBabe

BBQBluesStringer,[p]Great info! I've been anxious to try those buttery steaks after hearing about them lately...[p]BTW, that's a great pic of you and your canine friend in the Rogues Gallery! [p]QBabe
:~)

jwitheld

BBQBluesStringer,
seen the butter thing many times, didnt know why it was there. thanks for the info.

Spring Chicken

BBQBluesStringer,
I'm glad you clarified (no pun intended) that about butter and everything else you mentioned. My Dad was a butcher most of his life and knew a thing or two about meat. I never learned a thing about meat so he gave me some leaving-home advice - "Make friends with your butcher." I also know from experience that anything you add to meat does something to it. It can make it better or make it worse. And if it is pure meat flavor you are seeking, no seasoning at all is often the best thing to do. As a youngster I saw a demonstration of waterless cookware where the guy got the skillet near red hot and threw a really nice steak on it. Me and everyone else gasped, but in a couple of minutes it started breaking loose on its own. He turned it over and it stuck again, but then started breaking loose. Five or six minutes later he presented us with the best steak any of us could remember. No seasoning, butter, or oil. Just hot metal and room temperature steak. He explained that good meat has all the seasoning it needs.[p]Sorry to soapbox. I really just wanted to say thanks.[p]Spring Chicken
Spring Texas USA

The Naked Whiz

spring Chicken,
That's not soapboxing, that's interesting stuff!
TNW

Rumrunner

spring Chicken,
Your Daddy was a smart man and gave you good advice. I have always advocated "make friends with your butcher" and also invite him to a Q or two. Your freezer will be kept full and your phone will be ringing with good 'deals'. [p]Meat cutting is a lost art and soon no one will remember what a butcher was :( Check your local supermarket and you will see less than half the help that you used to see. On the other hand, small independent butcher/meat/markets are doing quite well and keeping up with demand. Knowledge of the product, smart marketing, keeping up with the times (ready to eat section, etc) and customer service will prevail.[p]Oh, hell, I guess I went on a rant. I digress.......

BBQBluesStringer

Rumrunner,
I have a good relationship with my local butcher. He and his wife (and 2-year old little girl) run an excellent shop, and I buy all my meat from them. They've added a Boar's Head deli section, and they have a small bakery with lots of specialty breads and pastries. They carry some nice wines, lots of speciality Q sauces (working on Ken's stuff) and some basic veggies and drinks. It's nice to be able to ask for a flat portion of brisket instead of the point, and not get a dumb look. If I want something out of the ordinary I'll call a day ahead and pick it up on the way home from work the next day. This afternoon I dropped in and got a couple of 7-lb pork shoulders. They don't know it, but one of them is for their family. They keep asking about the meat I cook, so I'm going to surprise them with a big sample of pulled pork tomorrow afternoon. The butts are about to hit the grill right now.[p]BBS-

Spring Chicken

BBQBluesStringer,
You're a good person. I'm sure he and his family will appreciate you as much as you do them.[p]Spring Chicken

TRex

BBQBluesStringer,[p]Great write-up. Lots of good info. I agree on all accounts. [p]I cooked four NY strips the other night for guy's night doing my usual method. They turned out fabulous. I ALMOST did the butter deal, but decided I would experiment with that when I was not cooking for company.[p]TRex