cooks illustrated meat loaf

char buddy

I tried the following recipe on the BGE after watching an America's Test Kitchen episode on making 'perfect' meat loaf. [p]I set up the egg for a raised grill, indirect cook at 300º for about an hour or until the meat loaf got to 160º internal. I threw a cherry wood chips on the fire and cooked the loaf on aluminum foil without a loaf pan. I substituted lean ground beef (1 lb) and ground lamb (1 lb). Otherwise I stayed with the recipe. [p]Results: as advertised on the show. Juicy and great flavor.[p]Enjoy.[p]
Memorable Meat Loaf
Use the right mix of meat, choose from three possible fillers, and bake the loaf free-form or in a perforated pan to keep it from stewing. The rest is up to the cook.
The challenge: Not all meat loaves resemble Mama's. In fact, some ingredient lists look like the work of a proud child or defiant adolescent. Canned pineapple, cranberry sauce, raisins, prepared taco mix, and even goat cheese have all found their way into published recipes. Rather than feud over flavorings, though, we decided to focus on the meatier issues. What meat or mix of meats delivers good mouth feel and flavor? Which fillers offer unobtrusive texture? Should the loaf be cooked freeform or in a standard loaf pan? Should it be topped with bacon, ketchup, both, or neither? Is it better to saute the onions and garlic before adding them to the meat mix? [p]The solution: We found out that meat markets haven't been selling meat loaf mix (a mix of beef, pork, and veal, usually equal proportions of each) all these years for nothing. We prefer a mix, however, with a higher proportion of ground chuck. This amount gave the loaf a distinct but not overly strong beef flavor. The extra beef percentage also kept the loaf firm, making it easier to cut. Mild-tasting pork added another flavor dimension while the small quantity of veal kept it tender. After comparing meat loaves made with and without fillers or binders, we realized that loaves made without filler were coarse-textured, dense, and too hamburger-like. Those with binders, on the other hand, had that distinct meat loaf texture. Cracker crumbs, quick-cooking oatmeal, and fresh bread crumbs helped with texture without lending a distinct flavor. Just as we found we liked less distinctly flavored fillers, so we preferred sauteed -- not raw -- onions and garlic in the meat mix. Because the meat loaf only cooks to an internal temperature of 160 degrees, raw onions never fully cook. Finally, we found that the high-sided standard loaf pan causes the meat in meat loaf to stew rather than bake. Baking a meat loaf free-form in a shallow baking pan gave us the results we wanted. [p]For good measure: For those who choose not to special-order the meat loaf mix prescribed in the below recipe or mix it themselves at home, we recommend the standard meat loaf mix of equal parts beef, pork, and veal. Also, if you prefer a crustless, soft-sided meat loaf, you should invest in a meat loaf pan with a perforated bottom and accompanying drip pan.[p]BACON-WRAPPED MEAT LOAF WITH BROWN SUGAR–KETCHUP GLAZE[p]Serves 6 to 8[p]If you like, you can omit the bacon topping from the loaf. In this case, brush on half the glaze before baking and the other half during the last fifteen minutes of baking. If you choose not to special-order the mix of meat below, we recommend the standard meat loaf mix of equal parts beef, pork, and veal, available at most grocery stores.[p]Brown Sugar–Ketchup Glaze
1/2 cup ketchup or chili sauce
4 tablespoons brown sugar
4 teaspoons cider or white vinegar[p]Meat Loaf
2 teaspoons oil
1 medium onion, chopped medium
2 garlic cloves, minced
2 large eggs
1/2 teaspoon dried thyme leaves
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper
2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce
1/4 teaspoon hot red pepper sauce
1/4 cup whole milk or plain yogurt
2 pounds meat loaf mix (50 percent ground chuck, 25 percent ground pork, 25 percent ground veal)
2/3 cup crushed saltine crackers (about 16) or quick oatmeal or 1 1/3 cups fresh bread crumbs
1/3 cup minced fresh parsley leaves
6–8 ounces thin-sliced bacon (8 to 12 slices, depending on loaf shape)[p]1. For the glaze: Mix all ingredients in small saucepan; set aside.[p]2. For the meat loaf: Heat oven to 350 degrees. Heat oil in medium skillet. Add onion and garlic; sauté until softened, about 5 minutes. Set aside to cool while preparing remaining ingredients.[p]3. Mix eggs with thyme, salt, pepper, mustard, Worcestershire sauce, pepper sauce, and milk or yogurt. Add egg mixture to meat in large bowl along with crackers, parsley, and cooked onion and garlic; mix with fork until evenly blended and meat mixture does not stick to bowl. (If mixture sticks, add additional milk or yogurt, a couple tablespoons at a time until mix no longer sticks.) [p]4. Turn meat mixture onto work surface. With wet hands, pat mixture into approximately 9-by-5-inch loaf shape. Place on foil-lined (for easy cleanup) shallow baking pan. Brush with half the glaze, then arrange bacon slices, crosswise, over loaf, overlapping slightly and tucking only bacon tip ends under loaf .[p]5. Bake loaf until bacon is crisp and loaf registers 160 degrees, about 1 hour. Cool at least 20 minutes. Simmer remaining glaze over medium heat until thickened slightly. Slice meat loaf and serve with extra glaze passed separately.[p]LOAF PAN VARIATION FOR MEAT LOAF[p]Follow instructions for Bacon-Wrapped Meat Loaf with Brown Sugar–Ketchup Glaze, omitting bacon. Turn meat mixture into meat loaf pan with perforated bottom, fitted with drip pan. Use fork to pull mixture from pan sides to prohibit glaze from dripping into oven. Brush with one-quarter of glaze. Bake until glaze is set, about 45 minutes. Top with another one-quarter of glaze; continue to bake until second coat has set and loaf registers 160 degrees, about 15 minutes longer. Cool at least 20 minutes. Simmer remaining glaze over medium heat until thickened slightly. Slice meat loaf and serve with extra glaze passed separately.[p]
September, 1996
Original article and recipes by Karen Tack and Pam Anderson

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char buddy,
I've made their meat loaf a few times indoors in the oven with great results. It's one of my favorites. I usually just use ground chuck for the meat, it's more moist. If you bake the meat loaf on a baking rack covered with foil and cut some slits in the foil to let the grease drain away, it won't be too greasy. You should try Alton Brown's recipe from the Good Eats tv show, it's pretty good too.[p]Regards,
Chuck Lane[p]