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I drilled a hole in the dome...... Photos
Mike in Abita
Posts: 3,302
A few nights ago a few eggers posted about drilling a hole in the dome to add some thermocouples and such. As I had a defective dome lying around, I volunteered to do some experimentation.
Photo of broken humpty. I used the piece on the right for this experiment. I have the otherside too if you need me to try something else.
First I grabbed a standard 3/8" Drill and chucked up a 3/16" masonry bit.
I also grabbed a Dremel tool and loaded it with a ceramic cutting stone. For those of you who have one it's the little green stone shaped like a cone. I don't have a photo of it as it came apart during the drilling. In other words DON'T USE A DREMEL, with this type of bit.
Now on to the holes. The first hole (the one on the left) was drilled using low speed through out the whole process. IMO it caused a little too much chipping of the ceramic glaze.
The second hole (second from left) was started with the Dremel didn't go even a half inch into the dome before the stone came apart.
The third hole was drilled using high speed throughout the whole process. IMO this is probably made the best looking hole.
The fourth hole was made using high speed to start and then low speed to finish up.
Pressure throughout the tests was average. I certainly didn't have to press really hard, sorta let the drill bit do the work.
All four holes
Hole three and four
Inside of dome (Note: Picture is reversed. First hole is on the right) Not much break out on the back side
After this drilling am I willing to drill a hole in my cooker. Probably not. Not sure what this will do to the warranty. Are you going to completely ruin your egg by drilling a hole in it. Definetly not. Just take your time and everything will work out right.
If anyone has any questions just let me know and I'll try my best to answer.
Photo of broken humpty. I used the piece on the right for this experiment. I have the otherside too if you need me to try something else.
First I grabbed a standard 3/8" Drill and chucked up a 3/16" masonry bit.
I also grabbed a Dremel tool and loaded it with a ceramic cutting stone. For those of you who have one it's the little green stone shaped like a cone. I don't have a photo of it as it came apart during the drilling. In other words DON'T USE A DREMEL, with this type of bit.
Now on to the holes. The first hole (the one on the left) was drilled using low speed through out the whole process. IMO it caused a little too much chipping of the ceramic glaze.
The second hole (second from left) was started with the Dremel didn't go even a half inch into the dome before the stone came apart.
The third hole was drilled using high speed throughout the whole process. IMO this is probably made the best looking hole.
The fourth hole was made using high speed to start and then low speed to finish up.
Pressure throughout the tests was average. I certainly didn't have to press really hard, sorta let the drill bit do the work.
All four holes
Hole three and four
Inside of dome (Note: Picture is reversed. First hole is on the right) Not much break out on the back side
After this drilling am I willing to drill a hole in my cooker. Probably not. Not sure what this will do to the warranty. Are you going to completely ruin your egg by drilling a hole in it. Definetly not. Just take your time and everything will work out right.
If anyone has any questions just let me know and I'll try my best to answer.
Comments
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Thanks Mike, for the drilling information. I would like to make another port in the dome for the Digi II probe. I don't have a local dealer and bought my LBGE from an Internet dealer, so I guess I don't have a warranty anyway.
I wonder why BGE sells eggs to Internet dealers and then refuse to back them.
Bill -
If you are looking for another port, use the slider. I'd try that before drilling another hole. You might find having the wires through the dome to be a hassle, with opening and closing.....not that I'm speaking from experience or anything......LOL. Twww.ceramicgrillstore.com ACGP, Inc.
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Thanks a bunch Mike. i really appreciate the effort. Now I know I'm ok
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Doesn't running the probe wire through the vent and so close to the fire cause problems. I think that the insulation on the wire is only good to about 450°F. My idea is to drill another hole and keep the probe wire insulation completely outside the egg and cool. I don't know how high a temperature the Digi II will read, but I suspect that it will read temps beyond what the probe wire insulation can stand. I often go to 600° or more for pizza.
Bill -
I think Tom is talking about running the wires through the top slider. I would only think about using the DigiQ for low and slows. Not much point in plugging it in for a pizza or a steak.
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Not a problem. I am glad to help. Good luck and remember fast is better in this case.
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I still don't see the logic of drilling a new hole for the probes.
If you are worried about pit probe being in the way then run it between the bottom and dome back by the hinges.
If you a running a meat probe through a hole in the dome I think you will find it to be more problems than it's worth. It may not slide easy when you open the dome. The meat probe can easily be routed out by the hinges as well. -
I want to monitor grid and dome temperatures during some cooks. They may exceed the limits of the cables. I anticipate that I'd want to monitor both on a pretty permanent basis, so a new hole, in the rear, will let me keep the cable out of the way, and just stick into the dome enough to get the temp. Virtually any other route, other than the thermometer hole in the front would expose the cable, the front is too awkward, and approaches the limit of the cable.
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All valid points. I'm in no way recommending doing this. I just had a spare, although broken, dome and thought I would help out by posting if it could be done with little to no problems.
IMO it can be done. I just wouldn't do it on my cooker. -
My setup is under roof and weather protected so the DQ II stays with the egg unless we are leaving for an extended period. I agree that the DQ II is not for high temp control but temp monitoring would be a plus. Having the temp probe in place and out of the way in the back would be convenient. Leaving the DQ II power off when its high temp limit is exceeded would be easy enough. Removing or installing the fan would be the only setup change required to go from the coolest to hottest cooks. I like to use the KISS theory for these applications.
Bill -
Mike, we both seem to agree that a probe access hole in the back of the dome would be advantageous. However, you don't want to drill your good dome and I'll a little apprehensive of drilling mine. So, why don't I come drill a hole in yours and you drill mine? :P
Bill -
they drill a hole for the dome thermometer....
i should show you what i did to the lower vent door onm my small, and to the firebox too. the firebox has twice as many holes, and the lower vent opening is mayb e 25% wider. never posted the pics because i knew it probably voided the warranty!ed egli avea del cul fatto trombetta -Dante
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