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Table design and $$
BeerBQ
Posts: 119
I hope to build a Table to host a new LBGE and was curious as to what types of wood folks have used. Has anyone painted or stained the wood? If so, what do you recommend that is safe around food? 2nd, what would be a good price estimate to build a quality table. I have been reviewing Naked Whiz's material list and was curious as to cost.
Does anyone have pics of their table, or can anyone point me to pics on this forum?
Thanks for your help.
Does anyone have pics of their table, or can anyone point me to pics on this forum?
Thanks for your help.
Comments
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The Naked Whiz site has 9 pages of tables people have built...mine is on page 9 (vidalia1)
We used cedar & pine and the net cost was about $300...we used spar urethane to varnish it
and it is 6' long with 3' x 3' of granite tile countertop....I love it -
I was all geared up to build a new table for my LBGE, but it turned out that the price of cypress (at least in St. Louis) was going to make my table cost far more than what I could buy a completed table for from the Mothership. I wasn't going to build anything exotic, so I just ordered the long table from Barbecues.com for under $300, shipped. I'll stain and seal it with Minwax spar urethane, then put some granite tiles where I plan on putting hot items.
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vidalia1 wrote:The Naked Whiz site has 9 pages of tables people have built...mine is on page 9 (vidalia1)
We used cedar & pine and the net cost was about $300...we used spar urethane to varnish it
and it is 6' long with 3' x 3' of granite tile countertop....I love it
Exactly what I was looking for. Had no idea additional pics were available on that site. Thank you! -
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When I built mine several years ago I used redwood and galvanize screws. I treated the wood a couple of times through the years and it's still going strong.
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Redwood (my choice), cypress or cedar are the only woods I would consider.
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I just finished my table at a cost (with all the drawers, et al in for under $400 but just barely) It is a combination of ponderosa pine and other white woods with a ceramic top. Pictures and a basic plan are on my blogsite at http://bigtsbge.blogspot.com/2008/05/big-gree-egg-table-project-all-done.htmlVisit my blog, dedicated to my Big Green Egg Recipies at http://www.bigtsbge.blogspot.com You can also follow my posts on FaceBook under the name Keep On Eggin' or the link http://www.facebook.com/#!/pages/Keep-On-Eggin/198049930216241
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I used Mahogany and it cost not more than $200 complete.
It's almost 2 y.o. and is solid as a rock. I finished with Behr deck sealer and touch it up once a year.
If you're leaving it outside, I strongly recommend a cover. The Egg will be fine, it's the wood that won't last.
Have fun! -
All my results, trials, tribulations etc. regarding my table are posted here: http://www.greeneggers.net/index.php?option=com_simpleboard&func=view&id=441721&catid=1
Here are the basics:
Wood used: Cypress
Cost: Too much
Source of plans: Naked Whiz
Regrets: Not many, just the imperfections resulting from my own learning curve -
I didn't submit for the Whiz's site yet but other details on my talbe include it is finished wth multiple coats of acrylic deck stain all over and sealed top with silicone. Used cement board for the table top (under the ceramic). Outdoor (different that galvanized) drywall/deck screws) often referred to as Green Screws. Covered at night with a outdoor furnniture cover.Visit my blog, dedicated to my Big Green Egg Recipies at http://www.bigtsbge.blogspot.com You can also follow my posts on FaceBook under the name Keep On Eggin' or the link http://www.facebook.com/#!/pages/Keep-On-Eggin/198049930216241
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I used the Whiz's plans, found some red oak on sale, finished with spar urethane, had to get new saw blades, etc. Came out around $400.00.
Knowing it was made with love, Priceless. -
If you are going to stain it spar varnish is the best choice. No varnish will hold up for more than a few years out doors due to UV rays.
Exterior or interior latex products bill break down from exposure to oil products which is why a lot of paintesr still use oil based products around kitchens and fireplaces. Latex products are used in kitchen areas but prolonged exposure to oil will soften and break down the product. If you keep your table clean you may never have a problem, but.
I used to make my living painting by the way.
Probably the most durable exterior coating for this purpose would be aliphatic urethane which is an epoxy coating. It is a two part paint that dries chemically. You can brush or spray that stuff but if you are not a painter you should stay away from it or ask a lot of questions when you buy it. It is also expensive.
The sun will beat your finish to death.
Spar varnish should be re coated every 2 or three years (at least in the deep south where I live) or it will break down and cause the stain to fade and become blotchy unless you cover your table when not in use then it will last much longer.
I would go with spar varnish or a good oil based enamel.
That said if you keep the table clean and don't have prolonged exposer to oil base chemicals or cooking grease Porter has an interior exterior latex product that would be great, Advantage 900. Sign painters use it around here. Fine product.
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