Spring Hinge Works Great!

Alan

I just installed my spring hinge that I ordered from BGE. It went on easily and without problems. The lid does open wider, and it sure is nice not to have to press the release bar.[p]I also ordered the cast iron grate. Since I haven't cooked with the new stuff yet, I don't know how it works yet. [p]I've seen a few posts asking about price - I paid $53.95 for the hinge, $14.95 for the grate, and $11.02 for shipping.[p]Cheers,
Alan

Unknown

Alan,
I'm glad the install was easy. I've thought about upgrading, but was concerned when I saw one at my local dealer. I took a piece of paper and laid it across the rim, then closed the dome. In several spots, the paper easily slid out. I don't know if there is constant force from the spring that could cause enough pressure to lift the lid a bit, But my concern is that if you have a slight gap, temperature control, especially low, would be a problem. Could you give yours the paper test and let us know how it comes out.

Grumpa

Irish Smoker,[p]I have been using mine for about 3 months now and have had absolutely no problem controlling temps. I think it is the best thing since the egg itself.[p]

sdbelt

Irish Smoker,[p]I haven't measured the downforce to be sure, it is probably the same as with either of the auto-lock or original hinges.[p]I say that, because, surprisingly, when the hinge is not attached to the Egg, it doesn't spring open. It rests just fine in either the closed state or the wide open state, again, with no Egg attached. The springs don't have the leverage to move the hinge, until the hinge has opened a considerable amount. After opening something like 6 inches, then the springs finally get the leverage to start applying their force on lifting the dome.[p]It's really a pretty good design. I recall a home-made spring hinge we saw posted here a while back. This clever idea had springs pulling the back of the auto-lock hinge down, which assisted the lifting of the dome. In that design, the downforce from the lid to the base was significantly reduced (I recall something like under 10 lbs of force remaining). Again, it was a clever design, and wasn't terribly expensive for the owner to create. But the reason I bring it up, is that these two designs are dramatically different.[p]Enjoy![p]--sdb

Ca_rnivore

Irish Smoker,[p]I installed my spring hinge a few weeks ago. I too noticed a "gap" towards the back of the Egg. Putting a business card in between the seals at various places shows me a tight fit, except in the back. I can easily insert and remove the business card in the back.[p]I can attribute it to a couple of things. Either the hinge doesn't sit tightly, my dome isn't seated correctly, or my gasket is bad. I was really careful when installing the hinge, so I'm confident that the dome is seated good, and the hinge is seating the back of the dome to the base correctly. I think it's the gasket, 'cause it's pretty well fried in the back! I'll correct that by using the Rutland stove gasket that I purchased to replace the felt one.[p]The good thing is that other than leaking a little smoke out of the back, there have been no problems cooking. I can hold 225* for 10+ hours just like with the old hinge.[p]It seems like the new hinge is pretty well made and it does what it's supposed to do. I wouldn't worry about a small gap, unless you start to notice problems with burning the gasket, or temp control issues.[p]--Kevin

Alan

Irish Smoker,[p]The paper does pull out easier at the I'll back than at the front, but my old one did the same. I don't anticipate any temp problems, but I'll report back if I do.[p]I'm on the original gasket ~2years, but I don't do very many high temp cooks.[p]The one adjustment I have had to make is to pull the unit out from the wall a bit to allow for the lid going farther back.[p]Cheers,
Alan

Unknown

Alan,
Last week, I installed the new spring assisted hinge on my large Big Green egg. I did what does not come automatically to me, I really read the instructions... then I immediately forgot them and put the thing together. I put on the four acorn nuts to attach the hinges to the rings. I then put the lower ring on to the egg and started to tighten it. Then in the back of my mind, I remembered the instructions when I put the original autolock hinge on the egg ... finger tight. I went back to read the instructions and sure enough it said finger tight on those acorn nuts. So, I backed off the tension on the lower ring, and the tension on the acorn nuts. I noticed that that allows for a slight change in the orientation of the hinge- to the ring-to the egg. I made sure that the lower ring was seated firmly against the egg as I tightened the lower bolt. Then, after I put the lid on the egg making sure the of the orientation of the pin of the top ring, I started to cinch down the top bolt. Making sure, the top ring was kept high and tight against the upper portion of the lid. At that point, I then tightened the acorn nuts. When everything was tight I slipped a piece of 20 lb. bond in between the lid and the base and there was no gap. I just thought this might help.[p]Dr. H.