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Optimizing the Mini, Finished, Photos
1. Flattened the rim of the dome so the ring won't loosen and fall off (The ring expands more than the dome when hot)
2. Built a hinge that has some vertical play so the dome seats flat, even if the bands aren't positioned perfectly.
3. Ground the edges flat so it seals without the gaskets.
4. Added spring-loaded bolts to the band, so tension remains constant.
5. Made a latch to hold the dome open.
6. Tossed the side struts.[p]Unfortunately, the Mini, being the runt of the litter, didn't have any accessories, especially the locking hinge. I might have bought a Small if it had a hinge, but the medium and large are just too big for me. Only option: Do it myself.
[ul][li]All my Egg photos.[/ul]
Comments
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Doug.W, looks really nice. Now when do you start taking orders? :-)
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Nice work Doug, for you to close the lid do you have to reach around to the rear to lift that flat bar?[p]Mop!
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Doug.W, That is nice..Good job and excellent photo review. You will turn heads with this one. I especially like the non struts brackets. My small will need some innovations in that area this spring..
I have one strut flopping...to either repair or remove em both.
Thanks for the ideas..
C~W[p]
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Doug.W,[p] Good to see your finished product, do you build space shuttles in your spare time. LOL Nice work & nice pics.[p]Earl
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Yes, I have to reach around back, but it's a short reach with the mini. [p]Still, it's a bit inconvenient, as it requires two hands.
I have a somewhat crude solution that works suprisingly well though. I taped a length of nylon string to the end of the lever, ran it over the top of the dome, left of the stack. I tied the other end to the left side of the handle.
To close, I lift a bit, reach out with my index finger and tweak the string sideways, which tightens it and pulls the lever. [p]The permanent version will use a chain over the same patch, but with a wood finger loop just above the handle. [p]
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Doug.W,After I posted to you I realized it was a mini reaching around one of them would be a cinch. sorry.[p]I just had visions of reaching around to the rear of my large, I mean it``s a pain in the butt when take off what you just BBQed to bring in the house, you have to balance the food in one hand while lifting the lid to unlatch the clasp with your other "two" hands to lower it...lol
You did a hell of a good job and it looks fabulous.[p]Mop![p]
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The locking hinge lever releases when it's pushed DOWN, correct? Just what's needed for a simple foot pedal. A light, thin hardwood stick (ash, maple, etc) with a cord leading to the release lever. The cord end of the stick should be 3-4" above the deck, supported by the cord and lever (Keep it all light enough so it doesn't pull the lever by itself).
The other end of the stick extends toward the front of the grill, where you can step on it to pull the lever while lifting the dome a bit.[p]In the case of a fixed mount for the grill, the front edge of the stick could be secured to the floor. Otherwise, just let it lie there, perhaps with some weight added to the front end to help it stay in position.[p]The midpoint of the stick could be hung from one of the legs by a spring or length of shock cord to keep it in position.[p]
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Doug.W,
Boared & Stroked, Blue printed, Holly Carbs. Bet that mini gets rubber in all four gears.
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Doug.W,[p]Where is line? I'm ready to stand in line for a while and wait for one![p]Smokey
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Holley carbs.. Hmm. I winder if an old bimetal automatic choke actuator can generate enough force to operate a lightweight air damper.. Mechanical automatic temperature control.. :-)
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Doug.W,
Man..it doesnt take much to get that mind of yours working does it..LOL...you may be on to something with this choke thing..the old Q jets used a coil type spring that may work also..mounted to an exhaust passage in the manifold...
keep thinkin man..you`ll get it.....[p]
Wess
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