Rocks BBQ, aka, Stoker Has Closed

brentm

I'd be curious to see any electronics on how he injected external power.  I have an idea on how this would be done, but I'd like to see it if anyone has an example.  

Here's another shot I found in my archives.  I have a text to my buddy to see what this is doing.  It looks like a charge pump though.

Hipplewm

Hotch said:

Yes Rock's recommended the 2nd blower to have an external power supply.

Not even close - once he went to the wifi and Stoker II and you bought the upgraded 4A power supply you didn't need an external at all. I would be running a 5cfm and (2) 10cfm fans and I have no doubt it would handle it fine as the PS he sold me was good for everything but (2) 25cfm fans, iirc.

I have run the 5cfm and 10cfm together many, many,many times for 12+ hours at a time with no issues whatsoever.

brentm

@Hipplewm - That power supply is a Cisco replacement part.  But yeah, I thought the Stoker II was a little more capable.  Hotch could have been talking a larger CFM fan.  Part number is 3A-204DB05 - if you drop that into a google search you will have some options.

On another note, I heard a rumor that the newer Stoker II's do not support long cable runs that the older Stoker II's had.

The theory is that when Dana replaced the DS2480 chip with a couple of transistors, it crippled the Stoker II's ability to run 1Wire extensions longer than 10 feet.  I don't have all the information, but it certainly is interesting.  And reading on GPIO 1wire issues with SOHO devices seems to corroborate the narrative.

Here's a pic of the prototype from dana.  You can see that he soldered wires directly to the pads of an 8 pin TSSOP chip.   Saved them 5 bucks a unit, limited range to 10 feet?  From a mass production standpoint, this makes the most sense.  Most users do not need to run 25-50 feet of cable for a Stoker II installation.  The most they run would likely be 6 feet.  So this is in no way an insult to this production change decision.



If I can source a Stoker II with the two transistors (my Stoker II has the DS2480 chip intact), I can test this theory.

Also @Hipplewm - I check this thread more frequently, let me know if you need any probes .  https://eggheadforum.com/discussion/1222399/diy-probe-for-rocks-stoker#latest

Hipplewm

Hotch said:

Yes Rock's recommended the 2nd blower to have an external power supply.

OK, so hmm, we may be saying the same thing.....

I never saw a Stoker with no power supply, my original one (Stoker wifi - I waited an extra 3 months to not get one of the white units) had a 5V 1A wall wart type PS and I used it on my L BGE for many years.

When I got my second egg, buying all the parts was about $30 cheaper than just buying a Stoker II - so I bought the stoker II and it had a 5V 4A PS (wall wart) and I just looked back at the emails from kennylee383@gmail.com; on behalf of; Rock's Barbque <rock@rocksbarbque.com> and he said the 4A PS with the Stoker II would handle it with no issues - but I had to put them onto the unit directly, I could only use the splitters for probes.

brentm

Hipplewm said:

Hotch said:

Yes Rock's recommended the 2nd blower to have an external power supply.

OK, so hmm, we may be saying the same thing.....

I never saw a Stoker with no power supply, my original one (Stoker wifi - I waited an extra 3 months to not get one of the white units) had a 5V 1A wall wart type PS and I used it on my L BGE for many years.

When I got my second egg, buying all the parts was about $30 cheaper than just buying a Stoker II - so I bought the stoker II and it had a 5V 4A PS (wall wart) and I just looked back at the emails from kennylee383@gmail.com; on behalf of; Rock's Barbque <rock@rocksbarbque.com> and he said the 4A PS with the Stoker II would handle it with no issues - but I had to put them onto the unit directly, I could only use the splitters for probes.

See, I'm missing a bunch of this history you all have.

I have a Stoker Wifi (not a 2) and I bought it used, and it came with the same 4a power brick.  But I did notice the solder traces on the Stoker II were substantially larger between the 1/4" female phone jacks than they were on the Stoker Wifi.  I have photos in this thread I believe that would substantiate this.  Which would allow for more capacity.

Hipplewm

I don't have access to my Stoker wifi older PS, but my Stoker II PS bought on 12/29/2015 is like this - it isn't a wall wart - it is an inline and much larger than my Stoker wifi PS (I'll havce a picture of it tomorrow as it is at our othewr house)

Hipplewm

brentm said:

Hipplewm said:

Hotch said:

Yes Rock's recommended the 2nd blower to have an external power supply.

OK, so hmm, we may be saying the same thing.....

I never saw a Stoker with no power supply, my original one (Stoker wifi - I waited an extra 3 months to not get one of the white units) had a 5V 1A wall wart type PS and I used it on my L BGE for many years.

When I got my second egg, buying all the parts was about $30 cheaper than just buying a Stoker II - so I bought the stoker II and it had a 5V 4A PS (wall wart) and I just looked back at the emails from kennylee383@gmail.com; on behalf of; Rock's Barbque <rock@rocksbarbque.com> and he said the 4A PS with the Stoker II would handle it with no issues - but I had to put them onto the unit directly, I could only use the splitters for probes.

See, I'm missing a bunch of this history you all have.

I have a Stoker Wifi (not a 2) and I bought it used, and it came with the same 4a power brick.  But I did notice the solder traces on the Stoker II were substantially larger between the 1/4" female phone jacks than they were on the Stoker Wifi.  I have photos in this thread I believe that would substantiate this.  Which would allow for more capacity.

On the Stoker wifi, IIRC, you were supposed to run the fans off either the front or rear jacks - they carried the most current.  I'll have to dig around and look for the old manual.  The reason I bring it up is maybe if you have it apart you can see if one side or the other has beigger solder joints like the Stoker II has.

billt01

rocks offered two different power supplies.

A lower amperage for his 5 and 10 CFM fans, but if you moved up to the 25 CFM fan (due to draw), one needed to purchase the larger output of power..I believe the PS was 50 bucks....

I could never find a 5V, only 12V's when searching for a backup...

Maybe he did this to  control the parts..

He was apple before apple...

Never heard of the need to purchase an external. I've used a 25CFM and a 5 CFM, 5 meat probes. and 2 temp probes on two cookers approx. 15 feet apart with one WSU (Gen 1 White Stoker Unit).

I was able to accomplish this by engineering standard extension cords and the bantam type connectors into them. I could get multiple signals (2 per cord) to run 15 feet. I was told by Rock himself and greater distance than that and the Stoker would lose the signal for the particular probes.. 

brentm

billt01 said:

rocks offered two different power supplies.

A lower amperage for his 5 and 10 CFM fans, but if you moved up to the 25 CFM fan (due to draw), one needed to purchase the larger output of power..I believe the PS was 50 bucks....

I could never find a 5V, only 12V's when searching for a backup...

Maybe he did this to  control the parts..

He was apple before apple...

Never heard of the need to purchase an external. I've used a 25CFM and a 5 CFM, 5 meat probes. and 2 temp probes on two cookers approx. 15 feet apart with one WSU (Gen 1 White Stoker Unit).

I was able to accomplish this by engineering standard extension cords and the bantam type connectors into them. I could get multiple signals (2 per cord) to run 15 feet. I was told by Rock himself and greater distance than that and the Stoker would lose the signal for the particular probes.. 

When you say you couldn't find 5V only 12V's, are you referencing fans?  It has been difficult to find a high-amp 5V fan in that 70m size (I think 70m).  The TKFANs.

I don't think he was controlling parts.  I think those TKFANs may have been a custom order from Asia.

I was just reading about the distance limitations and tuning that can be done.  It looks like twisted pair is recommended for longer runs.  They also don't recommend star topologies and instead recommend a traditional "bus".  Stokers is essentially a star network.

Then the value of the pullup on the DQ line.  Lowering that gives you some distance wiggle room.  But what a hassle for end users eh?

Hipplewm

This is my 5 CFM fan - seem like plenty of availability in USA - Not sure if it was an older one or what.  Now, I am at the other house and I don't have access to me 10 CFM fan. I did check and my 5 CFM Stoker Wifi does have the 5V 3A wall wart power supply, but the back of the stoker says 5V 2Amps MAX.

brentm

Hipplewm said:

I don't have access to my Stoker wifi older PS, but my Stoker II PS bought on 12/29/2015 is like this - it isn't a wall wart - it is an inline and much larger than my Stoker wifi PS (I'll havce a picture of it tomorrow as it is at our othewr house)

Thanks Bill!  Here is my powersupply - with a different part number.  I think the key components are 5V and 4A output.

Good to know that 417220-001 will do the trick too!

brentm

Hipplewm said:

This is my 5 CFM fan - seem like plenty of availability in USA - Not sure if it was an older one or what.  Now, I am at the other house and I don't have access to me 10 CFM fan. I did check and my 5 CFM Stoker Wifi does have the 5V 3A wall wart power supply, but the back of the stoker says 5V 2Amps MAX.

NMB5020-01W-B30 - just a cursory search in google appears that these fans are available.  However, they seem to be made of unobtanium.

Hipplewm

brentm said:

Hipplewm said:

This is my 5 CFM fan - seem like plenty of availability in USA - Not sure if it was an older one or what.  Now, I am at the other house and I don't have access to me 10 CFM fan. I did check and my 5 CFM Stoker Wifi does have the 5V 3A wall wart power supply, but the back of the stoker says 5V 2Amps MAX.

NMB5020-01W-B30 - just a cursory search in google appears that these fans are available.  However, they seem to be made of unobtanium.

Best I could find was Mouser and a 20 week wait with a 120 minimum:

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/NMB-Technologies/BM5020-01W-B30-L00?qs=XN%2Belh2ZYYZrNTp6YXyuhQ==

There was also this for a new part - looks to be a direct replacement:

brentm

Yeah, we have fan options still.  I have a 5V .2a fan I want to try in that footprint.

But a 70mm fan does just fine and is available in 5V and fits the Chinese adapter I'd discussed earlier.

If you find any of those 50mm fans at .4 amps and 5v.  Grab them!

GoKooL

Can anyone confirm the size of the barrel plug for the power supply?

Thanks!

brentm

GoKooL said:

Can anyone confirm the size of the barrel plug for the power supply?

Thanks!

It measures 5.5mm on my calipers.

BlueRidgeSmokers

Co-axial power connectors have both an inside and outside diameter - getting the inside diameter right is important to avoid a possibly flakey connection. The connector used on the Stokers is 5.5mm OD x 2.5mm ID.

If you're using a molded power cable, you want at least 18ga wire; DigiKey used to stock a 6' cable that I used in several set-ups, but it does not appear to be stocked right now (dunno if that's an impact of COVID-19 and will get better).

Dana

BlueRidgeSmokers

Regarding the 'DS2480B' vs 'two-transistor' Stoker IIs, I did a test last week, it's a little tech-heavy but the summary is I built a 22' extension cable using 18ga zip cable and reliably controlled a blower with my "two-transistor' Stoker II. I would have made a longer extension but it's all the old zip cable I have :-).

From the Hackaday post:
This experiment shows a simple 1-Wire Master driver works well with cables longer than 20'; while I haven't tested it, this probably would work up to 50'.

You can read the details (and behold pretty oscilliscope pictures ) at this link.

Generally speaking, conventional 1/4" stereo extension cables are built with relatively small, flexible wire and are not intended to carry the current necessary to run a blower (because of voltage drop when the blower turns on). It's possible that an extension works with a temperature probe but stops working with a blower, for example.

If you're building an extension, I recommend using 18ga (or larger) wire (it's possible you could economize using a smaller gauge wire for the data signal - the 'Ring', but I've never tried that myself).

Dana

BlueRidgeSmokers

brentm said:

On another note, I heard a rumor that the newer Stoker II's do not support long cable runs that the older Stoker II's had.

The theory is that when Dana replaced the DS2480 chip with a couple of transistors, it crippled the Stoker II's ability to run 1Wire extensions longer than 10 feet.  I don't have all the information, but it certainly is interesting.  And reading on GPIO 1wire issues with SOHO devices seems to corroborate the narrative.

More like a hypothesis, but you can look at my Hackaday.io blog where I tested a 22' extension to a blower for details, there is no 10' limitation on 1-Wire extensions. If someone is having trouble with an extension (certainly up to the ~25' I've tested), it's probably the extension.

Single-pin GPIO 1-Wire 'masters' are often a clever use of hardware, but can be problematic. GPIO pins typically have low current-drive capability (5 - 15mA) and voltage 'drop' as the current goes up. A 1-Wire Master operates by pulsing the 1-Wire line to ground; the limited current drive of the GPIO pin may not be able to pull a longer line all the way to ground quickly (or accurately) enough because of cable capacitance (ask an audiophile about this ).

This isn't relevant to the Stoker II though.

Dana

brentm

Thanks @BlueRidgeSmokers

I'll soon have both versions of Stoker IIs (two transistors and the DS2480 chipped) and will perform a practical distance test myself.

Obviously my "hypothesis" was based on what I understood the changes to between the platforms (and revisions between Stoker II) and what forum members here have stated.

My test won't be as complicated, but it should be practical.  I suppose you could try it as well if you rechipped your stoker.

The longer the cable the more capacitance, which is sometimes desirable in the guitar world.  But you're saying that the capacitance of the cable causes issues pulling it to ground over distance.   This must be why recommendations are made to lower the pullup resistor value (2.2k or lower)?  The DQ line carries voltage as well, what's a practical size wire for long distance on that line?  24awg?

Seems like it'd be easy enough to use category 5 cable and allocate the pairs accordingly.

BlueRidgeSmokers

brentm said:

Thanks @BlueRidgeSmokers

I'll soon have both versions of Stoker IIs (two transistors and the DS2480 chipped) and will perform a practical distance test myself.

Obviously my "hypothesis" was based on what I understood the changes to between the platforms and what forum members here have stated.

My test won't be as complicated, but it should be practical.  I suppose you could try it as well if you rechipped your stoker.

The longer the cable the more capacitance, which is sometimes desirable in the guitar.  The DQ line carries voltage as well, what's a practical size wire for long distance on that line?

Sure, I appreciate how anecdotal reports can be hard to turn into a diagnosis

I figure my test was practical - I made a 22' extension using zip wire capable of carrying blower current, then zoomed-in for a close look to verify the signal integrity. 1-Wire technical literature talks about distances up to 300m, slew rates, reflections, and can be a little overwhelming (I also tested the extension cable on a DS2480B Stoker II, it worked, but I didn't get pictures).

The 1-Wire data line (DQ) carries very little current (just the pull-down current from the 1-Wire master, 5V / 1k5 = 3.33mA) and likely can be small, like 26ga. Remember the ground line is the return for both power and signal.

While the Stoker II has a DS9503 ESD suppressor on DQ, if you start running longish lines outside, you probably want to put additional 5V ESD suppressors at both end of the extension. Long wires have a way of being antennas that pick up electrical storm activity.

Dana

brentm

BlueRidgeSmokers said:

Sure, I appreciate how anecdotal reports can be hard to turn into a diagnosis

I figure my test was practical - I made a 22' extension using zip wire capable of carrying blower current, then zoomed-in for a close look to verify the signal integrity. 1-Wire technical literature talks about distances up to 300m, slew rates, reflections, and can be a little overwhelming (I also tested the extension cable on a DS2480B Stoker II, it worked, but I didn't get pictures).

The 1-Wire data line (DQ) carries very little current (just the pull-down current from the 1-Wire master, 5V / 1k5 = 3.33mA) and likely can be small, like 26ga. Remember the ground line is the return for both power and signal.

While the Stoker II has a DS9503 ESD suppressor on DQ, if you start running longish lines outside, you probably want to put additional 5V ESD suppressors at both end of the extension. Long wires have a way of being antennas that pick up electrical storm activity.

Dana

Hah, practical in the sense that I wanted to push all three versions to their limits.  And see if there is a difference between the Stoker Wifi, Stoker II and Stoker II (chipped/transistor).

Load it up with probes, run a couple blowers 20-40 feet.  5CFM and the larger blower pictured above.

BlueRidgeSmokers

brentm said:

The longer the cable the more capacitance, which is sometimes desirable in the guitar world.  But you're saying that the capacitance of the cable causes issues pulling it to ground over distance.   This must be why recommendations are made to lower the pullup resistor value (2.2k or lower)?  The DQ line carries voltage as well, what's a practical size wire for long distance on that line?  24awg?

Seems like it'd be easy enough to use category 5 cable and allocate the pairs accordingly.

Oh, you added a question with an edit :-)

1-Wire slaves only ever pull DQ down to ground (discharge the cable capacitance) - the master is responsible for pulling it up, and charging the cable capacitance. Pull-up time is proportional to the pull-up resistor, so 1k5 (the value in the Stoker II) will pull DQ up more quickly than 2k2.

I'd previously done an experiment to determine maximum capacitance the 'new' Stoker II 1-Wire Master driver supports; I found that was ~8100pF. Cat5 capacitance is spec'ed at 52pF/m, so that's ~156m / 510'.

So, in theory, you could run 500' of cat5 twisted pair for the signal; you'll still have to arrange for +5V at the slave end, I suppose you could do PoE-style power or something, but that's getting exotic. Be careful with external power a long distance away; you may find a substantial current flowing between the two different grounds and/or high-amplitude noise in the ground. Reminder about ESD suppressors.

For a shorter blower extension, I suppose you could try paralleling the other pairs, but the 24ga wires have a much smaller cross-section area than 18ga and you may run into trouble with voltage drop running a blower.

Dana

BlueRidgeSmokers

brentm said:

BlueRidgeSmokers said:

Sure, I appreciate how anecdotal reports can be hard to turn into a diagnosis

I figure my test was practical - I made a 22' extension using zip wire capable of carrying blower current, then zoomed-in for a close look to verify the signal integrity. 1-Wire technical literature talks about distances up to 300m, slew rates, reflections, and can be a little overwhelming (I also tested the extension cable on a DS2480B Stoker II, it worked, but I didn't get pictures).

The 1-Wire data line (DQ) carries very little current (just the pull-down current from the 1-Wire master, 5V / 1k5 = 3.33mA) and likely can be small, like 26ga. Remember the ground line is the return for both power and signal.

While the Stoker II has a DS9503 ESD suppressor on DQ, if you start running longish lines outside, you probably want to put additional 5V ESD suppressors at both end of the extension. Long wires have a way of being antennas that pick up electrical storm activity.

Dana

Hah, practical in the sense that I wanted to push all three versions to their limits.  And see if there is a difference between the Stoker Wifi, Stoker II and Stoker II (chipped/transistor).

Load it up with probes, run a couple blowers 20-40 feet.  5CFM and the larger blower pictured above.

The white Stoker, Stoker WiFi, Stoker II (DS2480B) all use the same DS2480B 1-Wire Master driver. Later Stoker II has the integrated 1-Wire Master.

As long as you use adequately large wire (18ga or larger) for +5V and ground, I expect the blowers will be happy at 40'.

Keep in mind, the 1/4" jacks in the Stokers are rated for 1A max; if you parallel blowers connected to a single Stoker jack, you may exceed this independent of the 1-Wire signal integrity.

Dana

Hipplewm

BlueRidgeSmokers said:

brentm said:

BlueRidgeSmokers said:

Sure, I appreciate how anecdotal reports can be hard to turn into a diagnosis

I figure my test was practical - I made a 22' extension using zip wire capable of carrying blower current, then zoomed-in for a close look to verify the signal integrity. 1-Wire technical literature talks about distances up to 300m, slew rates, reflections, and can be a little overwhelming (I also tested the extension cable on a DS2480B Stoker II, it worked, but I didn't get pictures).

The 1-Wire data line (DQ) carries very little current (just the pull-down current from the 1-Wire master, 5V / 1k5 = 3.33mA) and likely can be small, like 26ga. Remember the ground line is the return for both power and signal.

While the Stoker II has a DS9503 ESD suppressor on DQ, if you start running longish lines outside, you probably want to put additional 5V ESD suppressors at both end of the extension. Long wires have a way of being antennas that pick up electrical storm activity.

Dana

Hah, practical in the sense that I wanted to push all three versions to their limits.  And see if there is a difference between the Stoker Wifi, Stoker II and Stoker II (chipped/transistor).

Load it up with probes, run a couple blowers 20-40 feet.  5CFM and the larger blower pictured above.

The white Stoker, Stoker WiFi, Stoker II (DS2480B) all use the same DS2480B 1-Wire Master driver. Later Stoker II has the integrated 1-Wire Master.

As long as you use adequately large wire (18ga or larger) for +5V and ground, I expect the blowers will be happy at 40'.

Keep in mind, the 1/4" jacks in the Stokers are rated for 1A max; if you parallel blowers connected to a single Stoker jack, you may exceed this independent of the 1-Wire signal integrity.

Dana

Is there a way to tell what Stoker II you have - mine was ordered pretty early....

That was all they said when I asked about multiple pits - each blower MUST be connected directly to the stoker unit - only put probes on the splitters

brentm

Hipplewm said:

BlueRidgeSmokers said:

brentm said:

BlueRidgeSmokers said:

Sure, I appreciate how anecdotal reports can be hard to turn into a diagnosis

I figure my test was practical - I made a 22' extension using zip wire capable of carrying blower current, then zoomed-in for a close look to verify the signal integrity. 1-Wire technical literature talks about distances up to 300m, slew rates, reflections, and can be a little overwhelming (I also tested the extension cable on a DS2480B Stoker II, it worked, but I didn't get pictures).

The 1-Wire data line (DQ) carries very little current (just the pull-down current from the 1-Wire master, 5V / 1k5 = 3.33mA) and likely can be small, like 26ga. Remember the ground line is the return for both power and signal.

While the Stoker II has a DS9503 ESD suppressor on DQ, if you start running longish lines outside, you probably want to put additional 5V ESD suppressors at both end of the extension. Long wires have a way of being antennas that pick up electrical storm activity.

Dana

Hah, practical in the sense that I wanted to push all three versions to their limits.  And see if there is a difference between the Stoker Wifi, Stoker II and Stoker II (chipped/transistor).

Load it up with probes, run a couple blowers 20-40 feet.  5CFM and the larger blower pictured above.

The white Stoker, Stoker WiFi, Stoker II (DS2480B) all use the same DS2480B 1-Wire Master driver. Later Stoker II has the integrated 1-Wire Master.

As long as you use adequately large wire (18ga or larger) for +5V and ground, I expect the blowers will be happy at 40'.

Keep in mind, the 1/4" jacks in the Stokers are rated for 1A max; if you parallel blowers connected to a single Stoker jack, you may exceed this independent of the 1-Wire signal integrity.

Dana

Is there a way to tell what Stoker II you have - mine was ordered pretty early....

That was all they said when I asked about multiple pits - each blower MUST be connected directly to the stoker unit - only put probes on the splitters

I think I'm confusing the minor revision of the Stoker II here.  What Dana is saying is that the Switchcraft jacks (female receivers on the stoker) are rated for 1A.  And the 5CFM stoker fan draws .4a.  Two of those together would be put you near the ceiling of one jack, and you need to leave some wiggle room (20 percent?).

This would be true for both Stoker II versions.

BlueRidgeSmokers

Hipplewm said:

BlueRidgeSmokers said:

The white Stoker, Stoker WiFi, Stoker II (DS2480B) all use the same DS2480B 1-Wire Master driver. Later Stoker II has the integrated 1-Wire Master.

As long as you use adequately large wire (18ga or larger) for +5V and ground, I expect the blowers will be happy at 40'.

Keep in mind, the 1/4" jacks in the Stokers are rated for 1A max; if you parallel blowers connected to a single Stoker jack, you may exceed this independent of the 1-Wire signal integrity.

Dana

Is there a way to tell what Stoker II you have - mine was ordered pretty early....

That was all they said when I asked about multiple pits - each blower MUST be connected directly to the stoker unit - only put probes on the splitters.

There's no external indication of which 1-Wire Master driver in in a Stoker II; it's a functionally-equivalent change.

Indeed, splitters present a couple of problems for blowers: possibly overloading the jack in the Stoker, which was rated for 1A. It will work over 1A but overloading it will slowly cause it to heat up and the spring tension will relax, causing it to not connect as well, heat up more and accelerating the process. It could take a long time, but eventually the jack can become flakey if overloaded.

The other problem with splitters and blowers is that the wires inside the splitters are small gauge, not up to handling the required current, and the jacks in the splitters probably aren't rated for 1A load, see above about flakey. Also, some splitters are just crazy cheap inside.

Dana

BlueRidgeSmokers

brentm said:

I think I'm confusing the minor revision of the Stoker II here.  What Dana is saying is that the Switchcraft jacks (female receivers on the stoker) are rated for 1A.  And the 5CFM stoker fan draws .4a.  Two of those together would be put you near the ceiling of one jack, and you need to leave some wiggle room (20 percent?).

This would be true for both Stoker II versions.

You probably could run a pair of 5CFM blowers off one jack if you were sure the splitter was up to it (adequately-sized wires inside, adequately-rated jacks) but (a) you'd probably have to build that splitter yourself because none of the audio splitters are good enough and (b) it was not a supported configuration .

Dana

brentm

BlueRidgeSmokers said:

brentm said:

I think I'm confusing the minor revision of the Stoker II here.  What Dana is saying is that the Switchcraft jacks (female receivers on the stoker) are rated for 1A.  And the 5CFM stoker fan draws .4a.  Two of those together would be put you near the ceiling of one jack, and you need to leave some wiggle room (20 percent?).

This would be true for both Stoker II versions.

You probably could run a pair of 5CFM blowers off one jack if you were sure the splitter was up to it (adequately-sized wires inside, adequately-rated jacks) but (a) you'd probably have to build that splitter yourself because none of the audio splitters are good enough and (b) it was not a supported configuration .

Dana

I'd built a box out of my guitar pedal project parts; 4 or 5 Neutrik right angle stereo with solder tabs.  I'd photograph it but it's ugly as sin. 

I'd just looked up their current rating, and it's 3A

https://www.neutrik.com/en/product/nmj3hf-s

BlueRidgeSmokers

brentm said:

I'd built a box out of my guitar pedal project parts; 4 or 5 Neutrik right angle stereo with solder tabs.  I'd photograph it but it's ugly as sin. 

I'd just looked up their current rating, and it's 3A

https://www.neutrik.com/en/product/nmj3hf-s

Those will do the trick, very good. Heck, take a picture, it can't be worse than my prototype 1-Wire driver