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stainless table mod for my XL...advice needed

I found a 6'x30" stainless prep table in killer condition for 100 bucks locally... planning, based on the feedback here, to go this rout. My issue is the table has a fixed bottom shelf, that will be too short to support the bottom of the egg. I could stack some pavers I suppose to bring up the height to support the base. Is that my best option?

Comments

  • How much distance do you have to cover? Would a nest do it?
    Tampa Bay, Florida
  • cookingdude555cookingdude555 Posts: 1,932
    edited December 2018
    I didn’t like the idea of those four tiny screws holding my egg up in that situation. I ultimately put my eggs next to the stainless tables in a nest. I think there is more flexibility this way anyway. 

    EDIT: added security view snap of my eggs. Two tables, one has a mini and mini max on top, two XLs in between them, and a large on the right. Lots of store on shelf and underneath. 

    John - SLC, UT

    2 XLs, Large, Medium, MM, and Mini.  And a red one.

  • JstrokeJstroke Posts: 2,256
    You’re headed in the right direction. You need an air gap between the paver and the table. Essentially if you set the paver on four bricks etc. anything to let the paver touching the floor of the egg dissipate heat. A stack of pavers will hold heat.
    Columbus, Ohio--A Gasser filled with Matchlight and an Ugly Drum.
  • Jstroke said:
    You’re headed in the right direction. You need an air gap between the paver and the table. Essentially if you set the paver on four bricks etc. anything to let the paver touching the floor of the egg dissipate heat. A stack of pavers will hold heat.

    So, a stack of 12x12 pavers and then maybe 2 brick size pavers with a space down the middle, type of set up?

  • JstrokeJstroke Posts: 2,256
    Either way, I put the paver under the egg and spacers under the paver. By the strictest route, your way is better.
    Columbus, Ohio--A Gasser filled with Matchlight and an Ugly Drum.
  • Doing the same thing with a large. Check the lower shelf support. You may need to shore that up first. sometimes they are just a frame covered with a sheet of stainless. My intention is to fabricate a nest that sits on the lower shelf but have to address the lower shelf support first.
    Xl bge ,Lg bge two 4' crusher cone fire pits. Weber Genisis gasser. Two rusty Weber kettles. 
    Moncure N.C.
  • ahhhh ok, so airgap at the bottom versus top. I kind like that, since my way would mean the bottom of the egg is only like 75% supported right?

  • Jstroke said:
    Either way, I put the paver under the egg and spacers under the paver. By the strictest route, your way is better.
    Do you have a pic by chance I could see?
  • Doing the same thing with a large. Check the lower shelf support. You may need to shore that up first. sometimes they are just a frame covered with a sheet of stainless. My intention is to fabricate a nest that sits on the lower shelf but have to address the lower shelf support first.

    Id love to see it when youre done. I couldnt pass up 100$ for this...
  • g8golferg8golfer Posts: 913
    I didn’t like the idea of those four tiny screws holding my egg up in that situation. I ultimately put my eggs next to the stainless tables in a nest. I think there is more flexibility this way anyway. 

    EDIT: added security view snap of my eggs. Two tables, one has a mini and mini max on top, two XLs in between them, and a large on the right. Lots of store on shelf and underneath. 

    That’s a lot of eggs 
  • DoubleEggerDoubleEgger Posts: 14,115
    Keep the prep table as is. The egg is just going to take up precious prep space. 
  • Col4bin said:
    Doing the same thing with a large. Check the lower shelf support. You may need to shore that up first. sometimes they are just a frame covered with a sheet of stainless. My intention is to fabricate a nest that sits on the lower shelf but have to address the lower shelf support first.

    Id love to see it when youre done. I couldnt pass up 100$ for this...
    Me either, doing an entire outdoor kitchen complete with a sink this way. The commercial stainless is well suited for the outdoors. 
    Xl bge ,Lg bge two 4' crusher cone fire pits. Weber Genisis gasser. Two rusty Weber kettles. 
    Moncure N.C.
  • JstrokeJstroke Posts: 2,256
    Col4bin said:
    ahhhh ok, so airgap at the bottom versus top. I kind like that, since my way would mean the bottom of the egg is only like 75% supported right?

    Correct. That is why I do it. They sell all kinds of pavers

    frazzdaddy said:
    Doing the same thing with a large. Check the lower shelf support. You may need to shore that up first. sometimes they are just a frame covered with a sheet of stainless.
    This is probably accurate for you as well. I didn’t think about that. Those bottom shelves are fairly thin for fully loaded egg so something supporting the shelf. You might be able to put in supports with wheels if that’s important. Maybe a flange bolted to the shelf, with a short piece of threaded pipe or pipe nipple and then wheels maybe 2 inch pipe.
    Columbus, Ohio--A Gasser filled with Matchlight and an Ugly Drum.
  • g8golfer said:
    I didn’t like the idea of those four tiny screws holding my egg up in that situation. I ultimately put my eggs next to the stainless tables in a nest. I think there is more flexibility this way anyway. 

    EDIT: added security view snap of my eggs. Two tables, one has a mini and mini max on top, two XLs in between them, and a large on the right. Lots of store on shelf and underneath. 

    That’s a lot of eggs 
    There’s a medium off camera, and another mini at work. I’d look crazy if all of them were out. 

    John - SLC, UT

    2 XLs, Large, Medium, MM, and Mini.  And a red one.

  • Build a 2x4 frame that sites on the ground and is as tall as you need. Then move the metal shelf float sitting on the wooden frame.
    Marshall in Beautiful Fruit Cove, FL.
    MiniMax 04/17
    Unofficial BGE MiniMax Evangelist
    Facebook Big Green Egg MiniMax Owners Group


  • Build a 2x4 frame that sites on the ground and is as tall as you need. Then move the metal shelf float sitting on the wooden frame.


    That bottom shelf dont move unfortunately..maybe I am misunderstanding you, which can happen LOL
  • Tspud1Tspud1 Posts: 1,107
    Why do you need an air gap on a stainless table 
  • Tspud1 said:
    Why do you need an air gap on a stainless table 

    Interesting question....thats why I am here though. newb!
  • It will flex and warp from the heat. I would think welds would eventually fail or be comprised from it. Just my opinion tho, not scientific. 

    John - SLC, UT

    2 XLs, Large, Medium, MM, and Mini.  And a red one.

  • toolndie7toolndie7 Posts: 26
    edited December 2018
    Maybe an option for you? The lower shelf has ribs welded underneath it for strength as well. 
    Rhode Island
  • Col4bin said:
    Build a 2x4 frame that sites on the ground and is as tall as you need. Then move the metal shelf float sitting on the wooden frame.


    That bottom shelf dont move unfortunately..maybe I am misunderstanding you, which can happen LOL
    I meant to unbolt the shelf from the legs and let t just rest on the wooden support.
    Marshall in Beautiful Fruit Cove, FL.
    MiniMax 04/17
    Unofficial BGE MiniMax Evangelist
    Facebook Big Green Egg MiniMax Owners Group


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