BGE table build question

jnovakbge

Hello,
I'm taking on the challenge of building my own BGE table (Large BGE) and I'm going to be using Kreg pocket hole joinery techniques.  I'm going to be joining 2x6 cedar to 4x4 cedar posts/legs.  Does anybody have any suggestions on how many pocket holes to use when joining a 2x6?  2 or 3?

Thanks

littlerascal56

I use Kreg for all my cabinet boxes (plywood w/face frames), but never had much luck with pocket hole screws in soft 2” wood.  If you had a friend with a Festool domino system, that would be a solid build. 

RRP

Personally I used lag screws for my main skeleton framework. 

jnovakbge

I'm using Kreg HD drill bit and 2 1/2" exterior grade HD bits on my whole BGE table project.  I've built many projects with the standard Kreg setup (as well as the mini for smaller projects) and the projects end up rock solid so I'm not worried about build integrity....but I do appreciate the suggestions.

Kent8621

i did all 2x4 and 4x4 framing with mine and used the pocket hole jig for all the joints i did and it worked great.  i did 2 screws per joint and its solid.

TEXASBGE2018

I would only use 2 per joint. You could do 3 but I think it would be overkill. I use 3 when it’s a 2x10 or larger. Then again given the weight that it will be required to hold 3 might not be a bad idea.

unoriginalusername

jnovakbge said:

Hello,
I'm taking on the challenge of building my own BGE table (Large BGE) and I'm going to be using Kreg pocket hole joinery techniques.  I'm going to be joining 2x6 cedar to 4x4 cedar posts/legs.  Does anybody have any suggestions on how many pocket holes to use when joining a 2x6?  2 or 3?

Thanks

I did two screws with my jig and a biscuit for alignment. Holding up fine 

bradleya123

BZ!!

jnovakbge

That's a beautiful table.  It looks like you're using cedar as well.  Did you use cedar deck boards for your shelves?  And I also noticed you installed the support for your middle shelves flat rather than upright.  That seems to be holding up the Egg without issue I assume?  I'm at the point where I've got the upper frame built out (which looks almost identical to yours...only smaller) and now I'm working on the shelves and lower frame.

Three questions:
1. What is the measurement from the top of your shelf support (the shelf supporting your Egg) to the top of the leg of your table?  I'm trying to figure out the ideal distance for that supporting shelf.  As I mentioned, I have a Large BGE.

2. What kind of table top did you build?  I'm planning on using 2x4 cedar boards edge joined (it may be overkill but it will definitely look beafed up).  So it's going to essentially be a solid wood table top.

3. What kind of finish did you use for your project?

Thanks!

Kent8621

whatever top your using make sure you account for a table nest or some way to make an airgap under your egg for safety.  no pavers or tile need just some air.

jnovakbge

Thanks Kent....I've allocated for that already.  I've got an old slab of granite which I'm going to have cut to size along with the table nest.  So I should have approx 3.5" between the shelf surface and bottom of the Egg.

SemolinaPilchard

Don't forget to leave room in the back for the hinge. When the dome is lifted the hinge drops a bit.

unoriginalusername

jnovakbge said:

That's a beautiful table.  It looks like you're using cedar as well.  Did you use cedar deck boards for your shelves?  And I also noticed you installed the support for your middle shelves flat rather than upright.  That seems to be holding up the Egg without issue I assume?  I'm at the point where I've got the upper frame built out (which looks almost identical to yours...only smaller) and now I'm working on the shelves and lower frame.

Three questions:
1. What is the measurement from the top of your shelf support (the shelf supporting your Egg) to the top of the leg of your table?  I'm trying to figure out the ideal distance for that supporting shelf.  As I mentioned, I have a Large BGE.

2. What kind of table top did you build?  I'm planning on using 2x4 cedar boards edge joined (it may be overkill but it will definitely look beafed up).  So it's going to essentially be a solid wood table top.

3. What kind of finish did you use for your project?

Thanks!

Here is the support underneath the deck boards so you can see how the egg is supported. 

I used the naked whiz plans for the height measurement. Not at home so can’t  grab it 

I used just exterior dark for the cedar and I built the top like how you described by joining the boards into a cedar butcher block 

nolaegghead

HD Kreg makes a pretty strong joint.  Perfectly adequate for an egg table.

It's not going to be something that you pass down to your kids strong.  Let me qualify this with the I'm a woodworking geek.  The last-forever structural joints are ones where the load is distributed, especially important in soft woods.  Namely, mortise and tenon, butterfly, notch, etc. 

I cut mortise and tenon in my egg table and another I build for a friend, at least for the main frame, and used floating tenon (Domino) for the others.  I used a very soft wood - cypress.

Glued them and also used Keg pocket screws.  No such thing as overkill for outdoor wood construction, IMO.  However, if you keep anything you make dry and don't stress it by moving in and out of your truck (say, for egg fests), the HD Kreg is perfectly fine.  End to edge glue is pretty worthless unless you use epoxy, and then it's a game changer.  So that's an alternative to the equipment and time intensive mortise and tenon construction, but really nothing beats it in terms of durability.

jnovakbge

Thanks...and that's a beautiful table.  I agree with the joinery of which method is probably more solid and durable...but I've got mine framed out using Kreg HD pocket holes...and exterior glue and at this point it's rock solid. I'm putting 4" wheels on it as well but I won't be rolling it around a bunch (other than on my deck) so I figure this table should last me quite awhile.  If it doesn't hold up...too bad.  Then I'll just use the tenon/mortise joinery instead!

BTW...any suggestions on where I can get some exterior rustic hardware (hinges and handles) for my doors?  

Thanks

Slippy

jnovakbge said:

Thanks...and that's a beautiful table.  I agree with the joinery of which method is probably more solid and durable...but I've got mine framed out using Kreg HD pocket holes...and exterior glue and at this point it's rock solid. I'm putting 4" wheels on it as well but I won't be rolling it around a bunch (other than on my deck) so I figure this table should last me quite awhile.  If it doesn't hold up...too bad.  Then I'll just use the tenon/mortise joinery instead!

BTW...any suggestions on where I can get some exterior rustic hardware (hinges and handles) for my doors?  

Thanks

https://www.rejuvenation.com/catalog/categories/hardware/cabinet-latches-catches-hinges  The horseshoe ones for good luck!! 

jnovakbge

Thank you!

jnovakbge

Hey BGE friends,

I'm nearing completion of my BGE table but I'm still looking for the icing on the cake....a nice looking bottle opener to attach to the side of my table.  Any suggestions?

Thanks!

Slippy

Try Etsy. I got a cast iron opener that was painted green. Support a crafts person that way. 

jnovakbge

Thanks Slippy.  I'll check there as well.  I ordered my pipe style door pulls from Etsy so looking forward to getting those soon.

Kent8621

they sell a BGE bottle opener but the bottle has to be perpendicular to the opener and then you go downwards,i have never opened one on it without spilling.

jnovakbge

Yeah...I've seen those also but don't care for the style.