Recommended finish for wood cabinet

kingsmoke

Looking for a good finish for a cabinet built with wood that came from a house built in the 1860's. I might consider using it by outdoor kitchen if I can protect it with a good finish.  I have already tried Sikkens (marine teak oil)  on a scrap piece , and didnt like it.  Any ideas ?

RRP

Cool!!! Personally I would use at least 2 if not 3 coats of a name brand marine varnish. And if you live in a humid area I would even give the inside a coat or two. 

fishlessman

tung oil holds up well on my boat, easy as just wiping more on for a refinish. its also non toxic, waterproof, not really too shiny.  you either like the finish or you dont. spar marine varnish looks the best but refinishing it can be a nightmare. my teak stuff just gets bleached and rubbed down with scotchbrite every few years, i like the old grey look

gdenby

My experience is from finishing wooden walking sticks.

Tung works really well for waterproofing. It needs to cure in sunlight, and 3 coats are good for long term protection. That takes a minimum of 7 days in the sun. I had one stick that took 14 days to cure. Becomes rather yellow.

The only teak oil I tried was cut with a petroleum product, to make it penetrate better. As far as waterproofing went, not as good as tung. But getting farther into the wood grain, made for a less painted on coated look.

I have to suppose wood that old will have pores that are very open. Most oils stain some, and the different levels of absorption might give an uneven look. If you want a more even finish, try rubbing the surface down w. rotten stone. The fine pumice will clog the pores, and the oil coat give a more even coloring and flatter surface sheen.

kingsmoke

Thx for the good info and recommendations.  The wealth of knowledge on non " egging" topics   as well as  cooking / grilling / smoking from others on this forum is great

RRP

gdenby said:

My experience is from finishing wooden walking sticks.

I have to suppose wood that old will have pores that are very open. Most oils stain some, and the different levels of absorption might give an uneven look. If you want a more even finish, try rubbing the surface down w. rotten stone. The fine pumice will clog the pores, and the oil coat give a more even coloring and flatter surface sheen.

Agree, but I have also had good luck on old barn siding projects using Minwax Wood Conditioner which readily levels out the absorption. It can go under polyurethane and Helmsman Spar Urethane.

Hntnhrd

I would have to agree with the marine spar varnish route. Any water based finish will give you a light clear finish. Poly based finishes seem to really bring out the character in old wood. But will give the top a yellow tint but I personally like that. You may also want to consider a two part pour on epoxy finish for the top that would give a “bar top “ finish , if it will be under cover
Here is some old barn wood Douglas fir that I just finished for trim at our cabin.

Finished with an oil based poly

kingsmoke

Hntnhrd said:

I would have to agree with the marine spar varnish route. Any water based finish will give you a light clear finish. Poly based finishes seem to really bring out the character in old wood. But will give the top a yellow tint but I personally like that. You may also want to consider a two part pour on epoxy finish for the top that would give a “bar top “ finish , if it will be under cover
Here is some old barn wood Douglas fir that I just finished for trim at our cabin.

Finished with an oil based poly

nice job on the trim . I like the natural look.