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New Egg, New Table
Comments
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There are a few places to get mini barn door hardware.
https://www.etsy.com/listing/558024051/mini-barn-door-hardware-set-4-rollers-1?gpla=1&gao=1&&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=shopping_us_a-home_and_living-furniture-other&utm_custom1=51ead792-14d7-40f0-b725-89628b6dab8c&gclid=Cj0KCQjwzIzWBRDnARIsAAkc8hHSMdgWS8XTs-aorvC9IXz2xeuTQmlG0tD7w-_WmFGtEclGdKwAf2AaAoeOEALw_wcB
Large, Medium, MiniMax, 36" Blackstone
Grand Rapids MI -
marainwa said:slovelad said:Where did you get the barn door hardware?
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-1-2-in-x-48-in-Plain-Steel-Flat-Bar-with-1-4-in-Thick-801097/204225764
Very nice table! I’m also using the low country lady’s blog, but mine is closer to the size of yours. I’m going to have make my own barn door slide, and would like to know more about how you made yours. I’ll pick up the same flat bar at HD to start. Thanks! -
Liteme said:marainwa said:slovelad said:Where did you get the barn door hardware?
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-1-2-in-x-48-in-Plain-Steel-Flat-Bar-with-1-4-in-Thick-801097/204225764
Very nice table! I’m also using the low country lady’s blog, but mine is closer to the size of yours. I’m going to have make my own barn door slide, and would like to know more about how you made yours. I’ll pick up the same flat bar at HD to start. Thanks!
The barn door hardware wasn't too hard to make using some standard items from Home Depot. You'll need to purchase a 48" steel bar from the link I included below, and also a couple of pulleys (you'll only be using the wheel portion of the pulley, I ended up using the type that has a hard composite (plastic) wheel instead of metal. Before you install, you'll want to paint the metal also. I used the rustoleum textured spray paint.
materials: 48 inch 1/4" thick steel bar, 2 pulleys, 3 carriage bolts, nuts/washers, smaller screws to attach hardware to door, small washers to use as spacers on each side of the pulley, 3 metal spacers that will slide over the carriage bolt (my spacer is about an inch and a half), installed between the inside portion of the horizontal bar and outside of framing of the table, 2 small bolts to act as bumpers on each end, 2 plastic caps to slide over these two "bumper" bolts.
1) Cut the flat bar to span most of the distance of the table, the excess should be enough to use and make the metal pieces that attach to the door.
2) Drill a hole in the middle of the long steel bar, and one hole on each end - drill holes through the table frame to match up with these holes. These holes need to be large enough for the large carriage bolts.
3) Install the horizontal bar to the table by inserting carriage bolt through bar, then a washer on the inside of the bar, then the metal spacer, then another washer, then through the wooden frame, then another washer/lock washer and nut to cap things off and tighten. Once installed, there should be about an inch and a half distance between the outside of the table frame and the bar.
4) Now you're read to build the two identical hang bars that are installed on the door. My hanging pieces measure about 9" in length, but once I bent the top portion over, the top to bottom of the hanger piece measures about 7". The steel bar is pretty easy to bend. I simply gripped the piece in a vice, and used a hammer to bend the top portion over. This will make more sense when you take a look at the pictures. Drill 3 holes in each of the hangers (2 holes to attach to the door, and 1 hold that will hold the screw/pulley wheel).
5) Install the hanger to the door. The distance between the top of my door and the top of the hanger piece is about 3".
6) Install the pulley as follows. Insert the small screw through the top of the metal hanger, then a few small washers, then the pulley wheel, then a few more small washers, then out the back of the hanger with a washer and nut to tighten.
7) Lift the door and hang the wheels on the bar. You now should be able to slide the door freely back and forth. You may notice, depending on the balance, that the door doesn't hang straight up and down and the bottom hangs outward. To fix this, I made a Z shaped piece of metal (will make sense when you look at the pics below) that holds the door in place. I installed a piece of felt on the inside of this metal piece so that it does not catch/cut into the door.
8) Last thing you'll need to do is install "bumpers" on each side that stop the door from sliding off the track. I used two small bolts installed from the back of the bar, with the threaded portion on the front of the bar, and tightened with a nut on the font of the bar. There are plastic caps that you can get in the screw isle at Home Depot that will slide over the threaded portion of the screw.
9) I also painted and installed a handle in the middle of the door. Not required, but it does make it a little easier to open and close.
That should do it! If you have any questions, just let me know. All in all the materials were around $15-$20, much better than the $120 or so that kits like this cost online. Happy building! Now that the weather has warmed up, I'll finally be staining the table a dark grey color, hoping to have that finished in the coming weeks.
Large BGE
Raleigh, NC -
Marainwa, that’s just what I needed. Thanks a lot!
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Welcome to the forum and great first post. An awesome table design and a pizza on the Egg. A++
Any road will take you there if you don't know where you're going.
Terry
Rockwall, TX -
What a fantastic table.... definitely have me thinking about concrete for the next one I build
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marainwa said:n00b said:marainwa said:Finally joined the BGE clan, picked up a Large egg and soon after built a table. Never had poured a concrete counter top before, but turned out pretty well with some green glass embedded in the top. Now just to figure out what color to stain the table. The barnyard door and general look of the table was straight from the lowcountrylady blog, with some added tweaks. I put together a sketchup design of the table - happy to share if anyone would like the design with dimensions, cuts, etc.
Table look awesome. How much glass did you lose during grinding and polishing? And did you buy a wet grinder like DIY Pete uses or did you use an orbital sander? -
reddog90 said:marainwa said:n00b said:marainwa said:Finally joined the BGE clan, picked up a Large egg and soon after built a table. Never had poured a concrete counter top before, but turned out pretty well with some green glass embedded in the top. Now just to figure out what color to stain the table. The barnyard door and general look of the table was straight from the lowcountrylady blog, with some added tweaks. I put together a sketchup design of the table - happy to share if anyone would like the design with dimensions, cuts, etc.
Table look awesome. How much glass did you lose during grinding and polishing? And did you buy a wet grinder like DIY Pete uses or did you use an orbital sander?
Happy to send you the file, PM me your email and I'll get it over to you.
For the glass, I simply crushed 8-10 Heineken bottles (after cleaning off the labels), and scattered that on the bottom of the concrete form before pouring the concrete. It's not a matter of losing glass when grinding, but more hoping the concrete doesn't settle and result in the glass too far under the surface where you'll never see it. Not much you can do about that really, I tried not to overthink it. If I were to do it again, I may have gone with a little more glass.
I used a wet grinder, but definitely didn't buy one. I rented one for $50 - link below:
https://www.concretecountertopsolutions.com/product/wet-polisher-rental
Large BGE
Raleigh, NC
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