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OT: BEER

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Comments

  • The_Stache
    The_Stache Posts: 1,153
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    Kcheves said:

    I use a converted GOTT cooler with a false bottom.  This is a very common setup, and works great. It's insulated and can hold the temperature well.  I like the round form factor, because I use a Phil's rotating sparge arm that fits perfectly and is very efficient.

    I'm not sure that there is any real advantage to stainless for this application, unless you make batches > 10 gallons.

    Totally agree here!  Fly sparging, imho, is a waste.  I only batch sparge!
    Kirkland, TN
    2 LBGE, 1 MM


  • northGAcock
    northGAcock Posts: 15,164
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    Ifin all y'all will send me a taste, I'll rule on who's is the best. Happy to (burp) help. 
    Ellijay GA with a Medium & MiniMax

    Well, I married me a wife, she's been trouble all my life,
    Run me out in the cold rain and snow
  • ChokeOnSmoke
    ChokeOnSmoke Posts: 1,942
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    These are the top things I wish I was told when I was getting started:

    1.) Get with a local homebrew shop to get started.  You can get equipment anywhere but what to do with it is another story when you're first starting out.  The shop will walk you through everything.

    2.) Skip extract kits.  It's a waste of time and old liquid extract makes mediocre beer at best.  All grain is not difficult, adds only one step and you're going to move there anyway.

    3.) Control your fermentation temps.  Makes all the difference.

    4.) Pitch the proper amount of yeast.  Makes all the difference.

    5.) If you can afford it, go right to kegging.  a.) Bottling is a chore.  b.) Unless you do it right you can get over/under/uneven carbonation.  c.) Kegging is simple and very flexible.
    Packerland, Wisconsin