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Screws in End Grain?

I'm working on Scott Moore's plan - I like the simplicity, but (of course now that I've glued up the bottom shelf 1x6 boards) I have a question about the 2x4 cross members. It appears everyone is just screwing into the end grain of those 2x4's to secure them to the 1x6? 

I'm not a wood worker, but is that legit? Would it be better to look at some joist hangers or will a couple 2.5 inch decking screws hold and not split out the wood? Thanks for any help you all can provide!

Comments

  • SemolinaPilchard
    SemolinaPilchard Posts: 1,282
    edited January 2017
    I used joist hangers on mine. If you are just going to use screws I would pre-drill to decrease the chance of splitting. 
  • Hntnhrd
    Hntnhrd Posts: 713
    From a construction standpoint screw or nails never hold well in end grain. Hangers would be the way to go.
  • Thank you both - that's exactly what I was thinking as well. I take it they make joist hangers that can nail into a 1x6? 
  • Botch
    Botch Posts: 16,302
    I am a woodworker but am not familiar with Moore's plans.  Generally putting screws into end grain is frowned upon, but if the screws aren't in tension (being pulled) it shouldn't be a problem (again without the plans I'm not sure). Screwing casters into the bottom of 4x4 legs of a table is fine, as the force/stress goes up through the caster into the leg (compression) and the screws simply keep the casters from sliding sideways and off the leg.
    Also, pre-drilling for the screws (diameter of the center shaft, not the outside thread, of the screw) and lubing the screw with soap or beeswax before installing will preserve the integrity of the wood.  
    The wood itself makes a difference, too; when you say "2x4" I'm assuming pine or cedar, which wouldn't be as strong from the end grain as, say, oak or teak; but again as long as the screws aren't seeing tension, you should be okay.  

    ___________

    "When small men begin to cast big shadows, it means that the sun is about to set."

    - Lin Yutang


  • Botch said:
    I am a woodworker but am not familiar with Moore's plans.  Generally putting screws into end grain is frowned upon, but if the screws aren't in tension (being pulled) it shouldn't be a problem (again without the plans I'm not sure). Screwing casters into the bottom of 4x4 legs of a table is fine, as the force/stress goes up through the caster into the leg (compression) and the screws simply keep the casters from sliding sideways and off the leg.
    Also, pre-drilling for the screws (diameter of the center shaft, not the outside thread, of the screw) and lubing the screw with soap or beeswax before installing will preserve the integrity of the wood.  
    The wood itself makes a difference, too; when you say "2x4" I'm assuming pine or cedar, which wouldn't be as strong from the end grain as, say, oak or teak; but again as long as the screws aren't seeing tension, you should be okay.  

    Thank you for the write up Botch. Here is a link to the plans - I've seen it recommended a number of times on these forums as well: http://www.scottmoore.net/projects/egg/

    You're right - I am using pine studs for the 2x4's and then just common pine boards for the 1x6. 

    Good to know with the casters - I'll be adding casters to the base of my table.
  • Even if you are going to be on smooth concrete I would recommend wheels that are at least 7" in diameter. A tiny rock locks up the small wheels, at least something with as much weight as an egg table. 
  • Toxarch
    Toxarch Posts: 1,900
    I used a pocket hole jig and glue.
    Aledo, Texas
    Large BGE
    KJ Jr.

    Exodus 12:9 KJV
    Eat not of it raw, nor sodden at all with water, but roast with fire; his head with his legs, and with the purtenance thereof.

  • Toxarch said:
    I used a pocket hole jig and glue.
    Ah hah! That looks perfect. Now to see if I have a buddy I can bum one off of. Thanks!
  • dsleight
    dsleight Posts: 101
    I built and use that table, you should not have a problem screwing into the end grain.  The way the table is designed, there is only one cross support that would be carrying any load through the screws.  I did add an extra cross support for the bottom shelf, but it is overkill (I am not good at following directions, I always have to put my own spin on things).

    I move this table around the patio 3-4 times per week and it is still solid (going on six months now).

    I built the table in 4-5 hours on a Saturday, it is really simple and functional. If I were to build something a little fancier like some of the tables shown on this site, I would certainly pocket the screws and do proper notched joints and such.  It would make for a higher quality finished product.  In my case, I just needed to get the egg off the ground and this table does that job just fine.