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OT - Crabgrass

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I tried pulling a few clumps of crabgrass yesterday and it took the use of my sharpshooter to get them out and I have a little too much crab grass to pull all the clumps. 

What at is the best crab grass chemical killer you have used?

Comments

  • outrageous
    outrageous Posts: 803
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    Go to your local feed and seed store, tell them what type of lawn you have, then they can tell you what type of chemical to use.   be careful, certain chemicals will harm certain grasses.  see you are in Texas,  what do you have, St augustine, Bermuda, centipede, zoysia???

    Large egg and mini max egg plus a Blackstone griddle

    South Ga. cooking fool !!!!!!!!

  • StillSmoken
    StillSmoken Posts: 327
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    It's all about putting down a pre merger in the fall and winter to stop the crabgrass in the spring.  
    Kennesaw Ga. XL Egg. Cheers, Kevin
  • Texag06ish
    Texag06ish Posts: 135
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    @StillSmoken - I know but I'm playing defense at this point. 

    @outrageous - that's my plan for now.
  • northGAcock
    northGAcock Posts: 15,164
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    It's all about putting down a pre merger in the fall and winter to stop the crabgrass in the spring.  
    +1
    Ellijay GA with a Medium & MiniMax

    Well, I married me a wife, she's been trouble all my life,
    Run me out in the cold rain and snow
  • StillSmoken
    StillSmoken Posts: 327
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    @Texag06ish I hear yeah!!  I've had decent results with the stuff you hook up to the hose for defense.  Weed be gone I believe. Good look crabgrass is a SOB. 
    Kennesaw Ga. XL Egg. Cheers, Kevin
  • FATC1TY
    FATC1TY Posts: 888
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    What kind of grass do you have?

    The best stuff you can get at this point, that WILL work, and won't damage most turf grass will be Celcius.

    Look it up online. It actually worked better when it's hot, most of them can't be used once it's pretty warm.

    Don't freak out about the price. You need like .5 ounces in a broadcast sprayer hose to cover like 5000sq ft of lawn.

    It'll take out all the other garbage other than crabgrass as well.

    Then get a pre-emergent this fall for sure..
    -FATC1TY
    Grillin' and Brewing in Atlanta
    LBGE
    MiniMax
  • Chubbs
    Chubbs Posts: 6,929
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    Use Drive XLR8. It's a post emergent that needs an oil surfactant and will work and work very quickly. Just ordered some myself. Surfactant is a must if you want perfect results. 
    Columbia, SC --- LBGE 2011 -- MINI BGE 2013
  • Texag06ish
    Texag06ish Posts: 135
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    Thanks again everyone.
  • THEBuckeye
    THEBuckeye Posts: 4,231
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    You can always wear a rubber glove, drizzle thumb and forefinger with Round-Up and wipe down a few blades from each clump. 
    New Albany, Ohio 

  • TowerPower
    TowerPower Posts: 8
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    Quinclorac is the active ingredient you need to wipe it out, if it's already 3-4 leaf stage, your not going to get the best control
  • FATC1TY
    FATC1TY Posts: 888
    edited May 2016
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    Chubbs said:
    Use Drive XLR8. It's a post emergent that needs an oil surfactant and will work and work very quickly. Just ordered some myself. Surfactant is a must if you want perfect results. 
    Good option, not sure of the cost of it, but with the need for a surfactant it could get labor intensive and costly. That, and again, depending on his climate, it may be too hot to use many of the post emergents effectively without causing much damage to his yard.

    That said- if you do go the route of needing a surfactant, and this goes for anyone who needs to get more water into their soil, if it's clay/compacted/etc...

    Baby shampoo. 3-4 ounces in a broadcast water sprayer, and shampoo the yard. Water it in after the shampoo and it's a great, safe, surfactant for your soil.
    -FATC1TY
    Grillin' and Brewing in Atlanta
    LBGE
    MiniMax