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Overbite? Underbite?
![dougcrann](https://us.v-cdn.net/5017260/uploads/userpics/194/nVKSTIM722M3P.jpg)
Just swapped out the cracked base on the Large. Will be swapping out the dome here soon as well. Anyhow...the base provides further than the dome....so that is an underbite, correct?
This didn't exist prior to me swapping the base. I put the plastic straps on the hinges. I put the 4 spacers in. Adjusted the bands so that they both were making contact with all 4 spacers. I must have screwed up somewhere...when the straps and spacers were pulled I ended up with a visible gap on the right side.....all 3 times. How do I fix the over (under?) bite?
Comments
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From the archives...
Overbite/Underbite: A quote from a poster
"I called this morning and spoke to Dewayne at BGE HQ Customer Service. He was extremely helpful and guided me through the steps to level out the top. It was extremely simple to do, even for someone who didn't understand the way these things are put together.
So basically here's what was the problem and what I did. The first problem was that the lower band was not wrapped around evenly - it was lower in the rear than in the front. He explained to me that the lower band should come right up to the edge of the lower gasket all the way around the lower half. So I loosened the carriage bolt on the lower rear band and GENTLY tapped along the band using a block of wood and a rubber mallet until the band was placed evenly around the whole bottom. Then I tightened the band. From that point, the underbite had improved significantly, but there was still a bit of unevenness along the planes where the gaskets met and it still did not pass the dollar bill test. In fact, the gap on the rear side between the gaskets was slightly worse, but I wasn't worried because I knew there were a couple more steps to
Next step was to adjust the front to back placement to fine tune the sitting of the top to the bottom. There are two slotted acorn nuts on the top part of the hinge (above the spring) on both sides of the top that needed to be loosened so that I can 'wiggle' the top into a centered position. So I loosened all 4 nuts, wiggled it into position, then tightened. Now the top was centered properly (no under or overbite), but there was still unevenness on the plane of contact - in other words, it still failed the dollar bill test.
The last step was to somewhat repeat the first step (loosening the carriage bolt) except for the upper band. Wherever there was the largest gap between the two gaskets, I GENTLY tapped the band upward which essentially pushed the lid downward by it's own weight. Once I saw that the upper band was positioned in such a way that the entire top part of the egg sat nicely and evenly on the bottom, I tightened the carriage bolt of the top band and vuala! It was fixed. Dollar bill test passed all the way around the egg. No more underbite (or overbite). "
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@RRP....this is for the bands of a Large, correct?
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not sure why the general idea wouldn't work for all size eggs.
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I could never get rid of my overbite after I installed a new gasket.
(No "nuts" on the band of my Egg, it's the old-style welded type) -
RRP said:not sure why the general idea wouldn't work for all size eggs.
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The bolts on the hi get assembly have,lock nuts on them. These bolts can't be tightened to much...the dome will not move smoothly otherwise...
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All these Eggers and nobody has a fix for an under bite?
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dougcrann said:All these Eggers and nobody has a fix for an under bite?
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That's what I don't understand. Thread is no slotted Acorn nuts on my Egg. When the dome is opened all the way the top links float a bit. Just checked the Medium, it behaves the same way. Will be on the phone tomorrow. I am guessing it has to do with the bands not being "square". I measured just outside the bolts that hold the hinge assembly on when the white straps were on. Both sides are at 2". When I checked up by the handle it is about 1 3/4". Course this was without my eyeballs on. I was hanging out with one of our dogs while she was chasing moths...Couldn't help but mess with it.
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As long as you're not leaking smoke then I'd call it a day. Mine has an underbite and performs perfectly.
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I just gave up on my large egg, could not align, when I opened and closed a few times the bolts tightened so much the dome locked open and took all I had to loosen the bolts at the back to get it to close.
Result was an underbite plus dome is off on the side. Last try I removed the rings completely and adjusted the rings perfectly, put back together and same problem.
Gave up and now have a new spring kit on order, hope it will help.Dave
Cambridge, Ontario - CanadaLarge (2010), Mini Max (2015), Large garden pot (2018) -
dougcrann said:That's what I don't understand. Thread is no slotted Acorn nuts on my Egg. .
My bands (and also the handle) are welded to the rings (no acorn nuts).
I got a slight underbite (about ¼ in) when I installed a new, thicker, Nomex gasket. The new gasket has a great seal, so I gave up trying to adjust it.
For more on this see: underbite site:eggheadforum.com -
Emailed Bruce at the Mothership last night. He wants to see some pictures. Next trip to town will be stopping at a hardware store to get some new carriage bolts...mine have been tightened so many times they have to have stretched. Will let you know what he says.
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For kicks and giggles please take a tape measure and record 4 measurements as follows. Dome: 12 o'clock to 6 o'clock and then 9 o'clock to 3 o'clock. Do the same for your base. Compare all 4 measurements to make sure either dome or base are not out of round. If they are no amount of adjustment will ever cure underbite/overbite. BTW this is my very problem with my large dome as I have a sideway bite that's off a half inch!
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@RRP....will go measure shortly...
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Base is 21 1/4" front-back and left-right.
Dome is 21" front-back and left-right -
dougcrann said:Base is 21 1/4" front-back and left-right.
Dome is 21" front-back and left-right
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